Geckos Care, Breeding & Morphs

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1 Sexing Tarantulas...pg34 Constipation in Reptiles...pg32 African Fat-tailed Geckos Care, Breeding & Morphs Problematic Snake Feeding - Hints and tips to get your snake eating Vol. 10 No. 3 May/June 2016 the #1 reptile and exotic pet website Ultimate exotics.co.zao.za Rhino Vipers! (Bitis nasicornis) The Candy/Toffee Panther Ball Python Morph Pg. 06 Chameleons Pg RSA R44.50 (incl. VAT) Other Countries R38.30 (excl. VAT)

2 Aquarium Depot, Tel: , Fax: Website:

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4 May/June features PANTHER CHAMELEONS We learn all about the care and breeding of these beautiful Chameleons that are growing in popularity. Contents Volume 10 Number South Africa s only Reptile and Exotic Pet Magazine! 10 THE CANDY/TOFFEE MORPH This morph goes through a dramatic change throughout its life. When it hatches, it starts off looking like a normal albino, it then changes to a lavender albino type animal and eventually ends up looking like a washed out Ultramel once it reaches full maturity! 18 AFRICAN FAT TAILED GECKOS This specie of gecko is not as common as the Leopard Gecko, but this stunning little gecko is gaining popularity as a pet in South Africa and abroad. In this article we will take a look at their care and all the amazing new morphs. 14 RHINO VIPERS These vipers have to be one of the most beautiful snakes in the highly variable bitis family. In this article we find out how to care for this specie. 34 SEXING TARANTULAS Sexing may seem daunting and confusing at first, but with enough practice, most keepers will be successfully identifying the genders of larger specimens in no time. ALSO IN THIS EDITION: 26 Problematic Snake Feeding 32 Constipation in Reptiles 34 Breeders Most Wanted regulars 03 From the Editors 39 Herpetological Clubs and Associations 39 Exotic Pet Shop 40 Advertisers Index ultimate exotics may/june

5 From the E d i t o r... hoping to breed to ensure you give them their proper winter cooling, to ensure you have the best chance of breeding them. We have already had the first expo in 2016, which was held in March. This was an excellent expo and it was so great to see so many familiar faces. These expos are such a great time for likeminded people to get together and share their passion, hobby and experiences with each other. It is also a great time for people to ask more experienced breeders questions on topics they are unsure of. I am really looking forward to the SOS Reptile expo which is now on the 7th and 8th of May 2016 at Emperors Palace in Johannesburg. This show is not to be missed out and we can t wait to see you all there! As you can see by the front cover our feature article is on one of the most popular gecko species in our hobby, the African Fat Tail Gecko. The African Fat Tailed Gecko is not as common as the Leopard Gecko, but this stunning little gecko is gaining popularity as a pet in South Africa and abroad. Although related to the Leopard Gecko these geckos are from a different habitat type and require somewhat different care. This article will cover 8 top tips that will enable you to successfully keep this interesting African gecko. In the past few years Fat Tail Geckos have Issue July/August September/October November/December Jan/Feb It is hard to believe we are almost in the middle of 2016 with winter on our door step. Our Ball Pythons are beginning their cooling and mating winter cycle and we are getting ready to brumate some of our colubrids in order to get them ready for breeding. These winter cycles are important for our reptiles as it helps their biological clocks kick into gear. It is important to make sure you do your research on each species you are DEADLINES Colour Adverts 15 May 15 July 15 September 15 November become more available in the pet trade through captive breeding. Hobbyists have taken notice of Fat Tails as well because of all the recently emerging colour and pattern mutations which we will also discuss. Don t forget to take a look at our website where we have an ever increasing range of specialist reptile products and reptiles for sale online. You can also subscribe to the Ultimate Exotics on our website and get the magazine delivered directly to you for less! Thank you to everyone for their support. Happy reading and happy herping! The Editor Justin Kobylka (middle) from J. Kobylka Reptiles, one of the leading Ball Python breeders worldwide at the Ultimate Exotics stand with Greg Van Rooyen (left) and Rolf Dennison (right). Exotic Pet Shop 25 May 25 July 25 September 25 November volume 10 number 3 May/June 2016 Managing Editor Rolf Dennison Design Layout Rolf Dennison Advertisements Michelle Malan Subscriptions Pauline Visser Sales Ralphie Riggien Electronic Origination & Printing Dennison Publishing & Art Printers Disclaimer: The Editors and Publishers of Dennison Publishing do not accept any liability whatsoever with regard to any statement, fact, advertisement or recommendation made in this magazine and do not necessarily agree with the viewpoints expressed by contributors to Ultimate Exotics by Dennison Publishing cc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Dennison Publishingcc Physical Address 83 Niagara Drive Waterfall Kwa-Zulu Natal South Africa Postal Address P.O. Box 32 Link Hills, 3652 Kwa-Zulu Natal South Africa tel: fax: Editor: editor@ultimateexotics.co.za Accounts: Pauline Visser accounts@dennisonpublishing.co.za Adverts: Michelle Malan adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za Bank Details The Standard Bank of S.A. Ltd Hillcrest Branch Dennison Publishing Acc no Subscribe now! Fill in the subscription form in your Ultimate Exotics magazine and send it to us at the above postal address. Your Ultimate Exotics will be delivered to you for just R215 for 6 issues including postage Please contact us if you have any enquiries. You can also subscribe online! Visit Cover Photo: African Fat Tailed Gecko Hemitheconyx caudicinctus may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 3

6 Lizards * Panther Keep in mind that these are only general guidelines. As you gain experience, tweak practices to what works best for you and your chameleon. Chameleons Furcifer Pardalis Complied by Ultimate Exotics Introduction Panther Chameleons are one of the most commonly known and kept chameleons in the trade today. They have been around in South Africa for some time now, although they have only recently become more readily available. Panthers come to the top of the list when you compare care needs to other chameleon species. It should be made clear that no chameleon is easy to care for; just some have less intense care requirements. Chameleons are not a pet that can be played with; they should rather be considered as display animals that will only tolerate minimal handling. Chameleons are not recommended for small children or people who want a hands on pet. That said, male Panther Chameleons are known to be some of the friendliest chameleons. Each chameleon has his or her own personality and this will show over time. There are many different Panther locales throughout Madagascar. You will notice a name occurs before the word Panther when you see them for sale. For example Nosy Be Panther. The name before the word Panther indicates the natural locale on Madagascar Sambava Panther Chameleon (Patchan Bloodline). By flchams.com 4 ultimate exotics may/june

7 that the chameleon is from. So Nosy Be Panthers come from the island of Nosy Be off Madagascar on the northwest coast. There are a few exceptions to this, like the Picasso Panther. This name is a designer name for that particular Panther for which the exporter does not want to disclose the locale info. There are very few such Panther chameleons named that way. The other common locales found in the hobby today are from mainland Madagascar and neighbouring islands. They include, but are not limited to, Andapa, Ankaramy, Ambanja, Ambilobe, Diego Suarez, Moroansetra, Nosy Be, Nosy Mitsio/Soabana, Sambava, and Tamatave. The designer Panthers in the trade include but are not limited to Turquoise, Picasso, Mafana. The panther chameleon comes in a wide variety of colours, each set of colours is locale specific. Within each locale there are even more colour variations, and within each colour there are different shades. To accurately know the locale of the Panther you will need to rely on the source you are purchasing from. Accurate locale and bloodline records are important if you decide to breed. When buying a Panther, find out as much info as you can on the particular bloodline and keep a record of it. This will consist of DOB, Sire / Dam info and/or photos, and locale. Ambilobe Panther Chameleon (Grier Bloodline). By flchams.com All Panthers are scientifically known as Furcifer Pardalis. Due to the extreme colour differences of the species, we use locale info to identify the wide variety of Panthers. This helps in keeping locales pure when breeding and avoids unwanted crosses. Adult male Panthers range in size from 30-45cm on average in captivity. Adult female Panthers are smaller than males, reaching full size at up to 30cm. Males reach sexual maturity around 6 months of age and will become territorial with colour displays towards rival males. The hemipenal bulge will become evident on the underside of the tail, near the vent. They will begin courting females by brightening their colours and bobbing their head up and down. Males do not get their full adult colour till they reach adulthood at over 1 year of age. Females reach sexual maturity at 6 months as well, but it is highly recommended that you hold off breeding until females reach full size at 1 year of age. This is due to the high demand of calcium put on females during egg calcification. Females lay on A breeder s Panther Chameleon room. average 1-5 clutches per year, 3 being the average. Egg count can range from eggs, with somewhere in the mid-20s being average. Caging Panthers will require an all screen cage; other forms of caging should be avoided. It is important to have the correct size cage for your chameleon; this will make its life happier and safer. Naturally smaller chameleons will need a smaller cage and larger chameleons will need a larger cage. For Babies: Baby Panther Chameleons will need an all screen cage from 40cm x 40cm x 70cm (LxWxH). Anything bigger or smaller than this should be avoided. The size and sex of the chameleon you get will determine if you should go for the larger or smaller cage. If you buy a male then the larger cage will be a better choice, males grow up fast and like to roam. Although chameleons are pretty good at catching their food, I would not recommend taking a short cut and just buying one large cage thinking you re saving money. may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 5

8 Panther Chameleons are found in the tree canopy and in low land woody areas in the wild. You will need to mimic this by providing a good mix of live plants, vines, and branches. Male Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Photo by flchams.com Sub-adults to Adults At this stage in life you want to look at long term housing for your Panther. The minimum cage size for an adult male Panther Chameleon is 60cm x 60cm x 120cm. An adult female Panther Chameleon is 45cm x 45cm x 90cm. It should be made clear that housing chameleons together in the same cage should never be done. Panther Chameleons are solitary animals and only meet when it is breeding season. They do not live in groups, therefore they should NOT be housed in groups. Males are VERY territorial towards rival males and become highly aggressive towards one another. Keeping a male and one or more females in the same cage should also be avoided. Males will stress out females with consistent breeding attempts. Gravid females will not take to having a male in the same cage or for that matter within visible sight of her. Cages can be placed side by side but a visible barrier must be put between the two cages. This will prevent one chameleon from seeing the other. Cages should also be out of view of any other animal. Lighting and Heating There is nothing like natural sunlight, so expose your chameleon to as much unfiltered natural sunlight as you can, weather permitting. Unfiltered light consists of natural sunlight that does not come through window glass, plastic, or acrylic. These materials filter out most if not all the UVB rays. With indoor housing and little to no natural sunlight, we are forced to use artificial UVB sources. UVB is an important key element in the production of vitamin D3 in the blood system of your chameleon. D3 is used by the chameleon to absorb calcium and allow for healthy bone growth. Without either of these nutrients, metabolic bone disease (MBD) can come into play. MBD is a disease that causes bone deformities from lack of calcium or D3 in the diet. These effects can be stopped but not reversed. UVB lighting comes in many different forms, most commonly in a fluorescent bulb. There are different amounts of UVB in some bulbs, you will notice a number like 2.0, 5.0, and 8.0 followed by UVB. This number is telling you how much UVB the bulb puts out. Example a 5.0 UVB bulb puts out a total of 5% UVB light. For chameleons we recommend the Zoomed Reptisun 5.0 UVB fluorescent bulbs. With the UVB bulb you will also need a heat/basking bulb ranging in size from w. Panthers need a basking site with a temp of C. The basking site should be monitored and adjustments made with the seasons. In winter you may need to use a larger bulb to provide the correct temperature. In summer you may need to lower the bulb wattage to lower the temps. Also you can try playing with the height of the heat/basking bulb from the basking site/cage. A temperature gradient should be provided throughout the cage, with higher temps closer to the basking site, lower temps in the middle and bottom of the cage. Interior Design What you put in the cage is just as important as what you use outside the cage. Panther Chameleons are found in the tree canopy and in low land woody areas in the wild. You will need to mimic this by providing a good mix of live plants, vines, and branches. Live plants are important in keeping up the humidity and giving the chameleon a more natural living environment along with security. Some of the most commonly used and available plants include Ficus, Pothos, and Dwarf Umbrellas. Plastic plants should be avoided other than maybe some cloth vines. Food It is important to provide your chameleon 6 ultimate exotics may/june

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10 Female digging to lay her eggs. a wide variety of prey. This includes but is not limited to crickets, silkworms, mealworms, superworms and roaches. A staple diet of crickets and or mealworms/ silkworms is recommended for daily feeding. Other food items should be fed as treats, with the exception of roaches. Wild bugs should be avoided unless you know that they are non-toxic to your chameleon, and collected from a clean source. A clean source would be an area free of pesticides, and any other toxins the bugs may come in contact with. An urban setting, for example, would be an area that is unsafe for collecting wild bugs for chameleons. Water Panther Chameleons will not drink standing water from a bowl. Their natural source of water comes from dew drops that build up on leaves. To duplicate this in captivity we use a dripper and or mister to provide the dew drops needed on the leaves. Daily dripping and misting is a must. Misting should be done at least 3 times daily; dripping should be done for a few hours daily. An auto misting system is very helpful in making sure your chameleon receives daily misting and a water source even when you re away. Panthers are a tropical species and need to be maintained in 60-80% humidity. Supplements Calcium, D3, and a vitamin supplement should be used. Calcium and D3 should be given twice a week, and a vitamin supplement once per week for young fast growing chameleons. As your chameleon ages calcium and D3 should be supplemented twice a week and vitamins twice a month. Food items should be lightly dusted before feeding. All prey insects should be well gut loaded before feeding. Breeding Male Panther Chameleons are able to mate at around 8 months old when they measure 25cm to 30cm long. Females Baby Panther Chameleon just hatched. may also mate at this age, but waiting until they are at least a year old, when they measure between 35cm and 45cm long, is best for their reproductive health. Males are generally ready to breed immediately. Females, however, must be ready before they accept advances. Unreceptive females turn black, hiss, gape and attempt to bite advancing males. Receptive females change from their normal brown, white and khaki colours to a beautiful salmon pink. Once one consistently displays this colour, you may introduce her to a male s enclosure. Displaying his best colours, the male will head-bob while advancing toward the female. If receptive, she remains pink and accepts his advances. Copulation commences, and breeding can take several hours. You may keep them together for multiple mating sessions until the female rejects the male, which can take a day or two. You don t have to watch them the entire time, but check Panther Chameleons mating. Photo by Screameleons Male and female Panther Chameleons from Ambanja. 8 ultimate exotics may/june

11 Top Q uality F eeding Tweezers 25cm ORDER ONLINE 35cm 30cm curved FREE DELIVERY 60cm Inferno Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. By Screameleons Egg H atching K it on them often to make sure everything is OK. The male may get too aggressive, and the female must be removed if that happens. Gestation is 20 to 30 days. Roughly 10 to 15 days after mating, the female stops eating until she lays eggs. When you see her roaming the enclosure bottom, place her in a laying bin, so she can dig a tunnel and lay her eggs. This laying bin should be at least 25cm deep and filled with soil moist enough to hold a tunnel. A 9 litre bucket or a small rubber tub works fine. No water dish is necessary, and you don t need to mist her at this point. Just leave her alone. The damp soil will keep it humid enough. Do not watch the female dig or lay. This can scare her, and she may abandon the hole and risk dying due to her retaining the eggs. After laying she fills in the hole. Take her out at that time, and return her to her cage. Give her extra water and calcium-rich food. After removing the female, carefully dig up the eggs, and keep them in the same orientation you find them. A clutch commonly ranges from 10 to 40 eggs, but 20 is average. Place eggs in a sealed container with damp vermiculite. Achieve this dampness by soaking the vermiculite and then ringing it out until only a couple drips come out. Place the sealed container in a cool, dark closet, and leave the eggs alone for eight to 12 months. We don t open our containers to circulate air, but they do have two to three one-sixteenth-inch holes drilled into the top. Temperatures can range from 19 C to 27 C, but avoid extremes. Humidity should be approximately 80 to 90 percent. Female Panthers are not as colourful as the males and display a pale brown or salmon-pink colour, and some turn black when gravid. Panther Chameleon Hatchling Care Hatchling care is similar to adults but with a few differences. You may keep 10 to 15 hatchlings together in enclosures measuring 40cm long, 40cm wide and 50cm tall (such as small screen cages or plastic tubs) until they are 3 to 4 months old. After that age, move them into individual enclosures measuring 40cm x 40cm x 70cm. They do not need to be moved into cages for adults until they are 9 to 10 months old. Keep hatchlings well-watered, mist them three to four times a day, and have an abundant supply of small crickets and fruit flies to feed them. Frequent feeding is very important, so have food ready when the chameleons hatch. We feed them two to three times a day, and each gets as many insects as it will eat. With the guidelines given here you should be able to successfully care for and breed the amazing Panther Chameleon. Keep in mind that these are only general guidelines. As you gain experience, tweak practices to what works best for you and your chameleon. may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 9

12 Ball Pythons * The Candy / Toffee Morph All I can say is, if you haven t, you will now! When it comes to the gene all I can say is one abbreviated phrase: O.M.W. ARTICLE BY Warwick Von Hagen Strictly Snakes Whether you have been in the Ball Python game for a while or are just starting out, I am sure you have heard about either the Candy or Toffee Gene. All I can say is, if you haven t, you will now! When it comes to the gene all I can say is one abbreviated phrase: O.M.W. My reason for saying this is because the Candy / Toffee gene goes through a DRAMATIC change throughout its life. When it hatches, it starts off looking like a normal albino. It then changes to a lavender albino type animal and eventually ends up looking like a washed out Ultramel once it reaches full maturity. So for those of you who cannot decide if you want Albino, Lavender Albino or Ultramel, the Candy / Toffee is the one! You are probably wondering why I keep referring to the mutations as Candy / Toffee and you ve most probably learnt they are separate genes. They are, however not different. They are the same gene. The reason I say this is, from what I understand, Outback Reptiles imported 2 identical animals from the same location years back. When they sold them, Peter Kahl named his Candy and Craig Stewart named his Toffee. Identical animals from the same bush at the same time and work identically when combined with Albino? Yup, they re same. The reasoning as to why they look slightly different? Well, it s the same reason normal ball pythons look different. The Candy / Toffee gene goes through a dramatic change throughout its life. When it hatches, it starts off looking like a normal albino. As it grows it changes to a lavender albino type Ball Python. Paul Angelides was the first to reproduce the Toffee gene back in 2009 before this gene was proven by genetics. Having handed out $ for a pair of het Toffee that may not even prove out, it was a huge gamble. That gamble, however, paid off. When these hatched, they looked like regular albinos, which led some to believe he was conned and sold het albinos. Paul then contacted Peter Kahl who had also recently started hatching Candies at this time and Peter confirmed that was how they looked when hatched. Once it reaches full maturity it ends up looking like a washed out Ultramel. 10 ultimate exotics may/june

13 Toffee/Candy Breeders of Quality Ball Python Morphs Contact us: Rassie Erasmus Wally vd Walt One of the greatest discoveries, with regards to Candy, was that it was allelic to albino. This was first discovered by Peter Williams in He bred a Het Toffee x Het albino, hoping to produces some poss het females to hold back. You can imagine his surprise when he hatched an albino-ish looking baby; he thought the female had retained sperm from the season before. He held the baby back, which resulted in the first Toffino being born. Mike Wilbanks followed suit and produced the first Candino in This is what helped skyrocket this gene to stardom. It allowed those who had the albino gene already in their collection to get into the Candy / Toffee project easier and quicker. If you have read the article on Acts Like Supers (Ultimate Exotics, March/April 2016 issue), then this MAY be easier to understand. Candy on its own works just like any other recessive trait, but let s still go through it to make sure you understand (all of these combinations below will be the exact same for Toffee). If you breed a Candy x Normal Breeders of Exotic Reptiles Since 1994! Toffee Ball Python Toffino Ball Python Contact us: doug@snakesalive.co.za may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 11

14 Candy Candino Leopard Candy the resulting offspring will be: 100% of the babies will be 100% het Candy If you breed a Candy x het Candy the resulting offspring will be: 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy 50% of the babies will be visual Candy If you breed a het Candy x het Candy the resulting offspring will be: 25% of the babies will be Normals 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy (but because you cannot tell them apart from the normal we call them 66% possible het Candy) 25% of the babies will be visual Candy If you breed a het Candy x Normal the resulting offspring will be: 50% of the babies will be Normals 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy (but because you cannot tell them apart from the normal we call them 50% possible het Candy) If you breed a Candy x Candy the resulting offspring will be: 100% of the babies will be visual Candy Now, let s start looking at how we can go about producing Candinos, and combining these traits. Hold on to your seats as its going to get in depth (all of these combinations below will be the exact same for Toffino): If you breed a Candy x Albino the resulting offspring will be: 100% of the babies will be a visual combination producing Candino (a Candino is not a double recessive trait like the Pied clown, it is however a VISUAL HETEROZYGOUS for BOTH Candy and Albino) If you breed a Candy x het Albino the resulting offspring will be: 50% of the babies will be a visual combination producing Candino 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy If you breed a het Candy x Albino the resulting offspring will be: 50% of the babies will be a visual combination producing Candino 50% of the babies will be 100% het Albino If you breed a het Candy x het Albino the resulting offspring will be: 25% will be Normal 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy OR Albino (the babies will be het for EITHER traits, you cannot tell which trait they will be carrying) 25% of the babies will be a visual combination producing Candino Now we have learnt to produce Candinos, let s see how they work in breeding (all of these combinations below will be the exact same for Toffino): If you breed a Candino x Normal the resulting offspring will be: 100% of the babies will be het Candy OR het albino If you breed a Candino x het Albino the resulting offspring will be: 25% will be Albino 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy OR het Albino 25% of the babies will be a Candino If you breed a Candino x het Candy the resulting offspring will be: 25% will be Candy 50% of the babies will be 100% het Candy OR het Albino 25% of the babies will be a Candino If you breed a Candino x Albino the resulting offspring will be: 50% will be Albino 50% of the babies will be a Candino If you breed a Candino x Candy the resulting offspring will be: 50% will be Candy 50% of the babies will be a Candino If you breed a Candino x Candino the resulting offspring will be: 25% will be Albino 50% of the babies will be a Candino 25% will be Candy I ll admit my head was hurting writing that out, I hope that has cleared the breeding of this mutation out. Now, I need to get this point across and cannot stress this enough as it has happened many times. People have contacted me saying that they have just bought a HET CANDINO. This is an incorrect statement, one cannot have a HET Candino, as shown above, you cannot get het Candino, as a Candino is a combined trait of Candy and albino. It is just a clever marketing ploy to sell an animal that NO breeder can guarantee whether the animal is het candy or het albino, so, if you have one of these animals, the best way is to use some of the breedings above to try and prove it out! With all this being said, the Candy / Toffee gene is truly my favourite to work with. It has a huge future potential as its still scratching the surface in the industry. I hope after this article, your love for this gene has grown on you and may your future with it be good. May the odds be ever in your favour. 12 ultimate exotics may/june

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16 Venomous* Rhino Vipers Breeders of this species are now trying to keep locality specific animals as there is quite a lot of variation in colour and pattern depending on the locality of the animals. (Bitis nasicornis) ARTICLE BY By Sean William The Rhino Viper has to be one of the most beautiful snakes in the highly variable bitis family. Colouration can vary quite a bit, with variations of bright blues, greens, reds and yellows. Like the Gaboon Viper, in the wild, they blend in perfectly with the ground and vegetation. Rhino Vipers commonly reach sizes of 100cm but there have been individuals recorded well over 120cm. The head is narrow, flat, triangular and relatively small compared to the rest of the body. The neck is thin. It has a distinctive set of two or three horn-like scales on the end of the nose, the front pair of which may be quite long. The eyes are small and set well forward. The fangs are rarely more than 1.5 cm in length. Locality The Rhino Viper inhabits Benin, The Congo, Guinea, Gabon, Ghana, Kenya, Liberia, Rwanda, Nigeria, The Ivory Coast, Cameroon, Leone, Sudan, Togo, Cabina, and Tanzania. Like most bitis species, they are ambush predators. They sit and wait for a rodent or other prey item to cross their path. Their habitat consists of dense forested areas, swamps, and around rivers. Another common name for the Rhino Viper is The river jack. One must remember that this species is highly venomous and therefore should only be kept by experienced venomous snake keepers. Breeders of this species are now trying to keep locality specific animals as there is quite a lot of variation in colour and pattern depending on the locality of the animals. For example, West African Rhinos tend to start off quite bright in colour (often having lots of red colouration), but end up very dark with little or no blue, red or yellow colouration. However, Rhinos from Uganda (particularly from the Ituri Ituri Forest Rhino Viper The average temperatures required for the Rhino Vipers are somewhat on the cool side. In some parts of their range, the Rhino Viper will almost never see direct sun light. 14 ultimate exotics may/june

17 Breeders of this species are now trying to keep locality specific animals as there is quite a lot of variation in colour and pattern depending on the locality of the animals. forest region) start off very bright, often having lots or bright blue and yellow and tend to retain that colouration, even as adults. Captive Husbandry The Rhino Viper can be a very rewarding species to keep but the captive requirements are a bit different than that of the Gaboon Viper. Like the Gaboon Viper, correct temperature and humidity must be maintained and checked every day in order for them to thrive in a captive situation. Temperatures The average temperatures required for the Rhino Vipers are somewhat on the cool side. In some parts of their range, the Rhino Viper will almost never see direct sun light. Rhinos do not do well with high heat. If the temps get too high for a long period of time they will die as a result. Day Time Temps The cool end of the cage should average between 21 C and 23 C. The warm end should average between 24 C and 27 C. Like the Gaboon Viper, you can allow the temps to drop by 2-3 degrees at night. The use of light bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to properly maintain daytime heat and night time cooling. Always offer them the hot spot but chances are they will never use it. A day/night temperature controller is best to use in controlling their day and night time heat accurately. Humidity Rhino Vipers like humidity levels to be on the high side. They do well with levels maintained between 70% and 80%. Keeping a large water bowl in the cage is a good idea. Like the Gaboon Viper, you can allow the humidity to drop if you will be cycling them for breeding. Proper ventilation and air circulation is a must when maintaining a Rhino Viper. They can be very prone to upper respiratory infections and scale rot. Hydration The Rhino Viper does a better job of keeping itself hydrated than the Gaboon Viper does. You will find that Rhino Vipers tend to soak in their water dishes often. They usually drink from water dishes without a problem. Weekly soaks and misting the cage twice a week is still a must. Also injecting the prey items with water or electrolytes is a good idea. If you find that your Rhino Viper does not drink readily from a standing water supply, hooking it over to the dish every couple of days is a good way to make sure it is drinking. Feeding Getting a Rhino to eat should be no problem as long as there are no health problems. If you acquire a new Rhino, you should allow it a week or so to settle Where? Python Park, N6 Highway, Thorn Valley, East London Open: Wed - Sun: 09:00 am - 4:30 pm For More Information Contact us on: thevenompit@gmail.co.za tel: Juan on tel: Shaun on may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 15

18 An excellent photo showing the horn-like scales which has earned this viper it s common name. Top Q uality T emperature Controllers ORDER ONLINE FREE DELIVERY into its new home. Young can be fed once a week as long as you are not feeding them huge meals in one sitting. Adults can be fed once a week as long as you are not offering them huge prey items. As these are ambush predators they don t move around much and therefore they are susceptible to obesity and constipation. I know a few keepers that will soak their Rhinos once a month in a tub of shallow water in order to help stimulate them to pass their stool, which helps prevent constipation. Caging All glass aquariums with screen tops should never be used to house any venomous snake. These types of cage possess a risk to the keeper as well as the snake. Proper temps and humidity cannot be maintained in this type of set up. The best cages for venomous snakes are vision and precision style cages with front sliding glass or hinged front opening doors. All cages containing venomous snakes must be lockable. Substrate You want to use a substrate that holds humidity well. Cypress mulch is a great substrate to use. It is cheap and does the required job. It holds humidity well and the snakes can bury themselves in it. There are a lot of other beddings you can buy at a pet store but I find cypress to be the best. It is always a good idea to bake or microwave any natural bedding to rid it of any unwanted insect life or parasites. Never use pine or cedar shavings. The oils and fumes can be fatal to your reptile. I have also keepers keep this species on a newspaper substrate with success. Hide Spots and Decor When using a natural substrate you do not have to offer a hide spot because they will use the substrate as a hide. If you are using paper towels as a substrate you should offer some sort of hide spot. As with all venomous snakes the cage decor should be kept to a minimum. This is for keeper safety. Temperament The Rhino Viper can be a bit defensive at times and become agitated more quickly than the Gaboon Viper. They can also be a little quicker to strike. They are not tame or docile and should never be regarded as such. All venomous snakes, no matter how mild, should be respected. Handling As with all venomous snakes, the Rhino Viper should only be handled with the proper tools. Snake hooks, restraint tubes, and trap boxes should be used. Free handling should never be an option. With all the equipment on the market today, there should never be a reason to freely handle a venomous snake. Tailing any bitis can be risky and is not advised unless you 100% confident in your skills and have a death wish, so don t do it. Venom Bitis nasicornis is considered to be one of the most dangerous snakes of Africa. Small doses of the snake s primarily hemotoxic venom can be deadly. This is unlike the Gaboon Viper, the largest of the vipers, which uses a considerably larger amount of venom. Bitis nasicornis has both neurotoxic, as well as hemotoxic venom, as do most 16 ultimate exotics may/june

19 other venomous snakes. The hemotoxic venom in Rhinoceros Vipers is much more dominant. This venom attacks the circulatory system of the snake s victim, destroying tissue and blood vessels. Internal bleeding also occurs. When not in use, the Rhino Viper s fangs are folded up into the roof of the snake s mouth. The snake has the ability to control the movement of its fangs. Simply because the Rhino Viper may open its mouth does not mean that the fangs will flip down into place. These fangs penetrate deep into the victim and the small doses of venom flow through the hollow fangs into the wound. Getting a Rhino to eat should be no problem as long as there are no health problems. Because of its restricted geographic range, few bites have been reported. No statistics are available. Relatively little is known about the toxicity and composition of the venom. In mice, the intravenous LD50 is 1.1 mg/ kg. The maximum wet venom yield is 200 mg. One study reported this venom has the highest intramuscular LD50 value 8.6 mg/kg of five different viperid venoms tested (B. arietans, B. gabonica, B. nasicornis, Daboia russelii and Vipera aspis). Another showed little variation in the venom potency of these snakes, whether they were milked once every two days or once every three weeks. In rabbits, the venom is apparently slightly more toxic than that of B. gabonica. In only a few detailed reports of human envenomation, massive swelling, which may lead to necrosis, had been described. In 2003, a man in Dayton, Ohio, who was keeping a specimen as a pet, was bitten and subsequently died. At least one antivenom protects specifically against bites from this species: India Antiserum Africa Polyvalent. There is not much documented on the venom of the Rhino Viper. However, they are highly venomous and have caused human fatalities.when keeping exotic venomous snakes, one should have their own supply of anti-venom on site. This is not a snake to be kept by the beginner or inexperienced keeper. may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 17

20 Geckos* African Fat Tailed Geckos.. Care Breeding Morphs Hemitheconyx caudicinctus In the past few years Fat Tail Geckos have become more available in the pet trade through captive breeding. Hobbyists have taken notice of Fat Tails as well because of all the recently emerging colour and pattern mutations. ARTICLE BY Timothy Zedi of Tim s Reptile Supplies with added information from Ultimate Exotics Introduction The African Fat Tailed Gecko is not as common as the Leopard Gecko, but this stunning little gecko is gaining popularity as a pet in South Africa and abroad. Although related to the Leopard Gecko these geckos are from a different habitat type and require somewhat different care. This article will cover 8 top tips that will enable you to successfully keep this interesting African gecko. 1. Humidity African Fat Tailed Geckos require more humidity than their cousins the Leopard Geckos. A humidity level of 60-70% can be maintained by providing a moist hide filled with Sphagnum moss and by spraying the cage down with water twice a week or so. I let the substrate dry out completely between sprays. Keeping up the humidity levels is especially important for hatchlings which can dehydrate quickly if kept too dry. A good indicator that your cage is too dry is if your geckos have problems shedding. Provide a bowl filled with fresh water at all times. A slightly humid cage will also be warmer as the water droplets retain heat. Don t over do the humidity as this species is not a rainforest dweller. African Fat Tailed Geckos come from the same natural range as Ball Pythons, so when setting up a cage for them think of a slightly humid savanna habitat rather than the arid habitat that the more common Leopard Gecko inhabits. A Zulu morph African Fat Tail. These geckos will often ignore every insect you give them except for crickets. 18 ultimate exotics may/june

21 2. Substrate I originally kept my first African Fat Tailed Gecko on paper towel as a substrate, as this works perfectly for my Leopard Geckos. My gecko stopped eating and I suspected parasites, after a course of deworming the gecko passed out paper towel and began eating again. My African Fat Tailed Gecko had been eating its paper towel so to avoid future gut impactions I swopped to a substrate of sphagnum moss, which is organic and if eaten will be digested. The moss also aids in keeping up humidity. Never use sand as a substrate for African Fat Tailed Geckos as this is too dry and will cause gut impactions if ingested. Other substrates that can be used are coconut husk and coco peat. Many keepers and breeders still use paper towel successfully as a substrate but since my gecko ate the paper towel I am now viewing it as not as safe as I previously thought. African Fat Tailed Geckos are very clean and will defecate in the same spot every time which makes cleaning very easy, spot clean the cage every few days and replace the substrate every month or so if you are using a natural substrate such as moss. 3. African Fat Tailed Geckos Prefer Crickets If you own an African Fat Tailed Gecko prepare to feed it crickets. These geckos will often ignore every insect you give them except for crickets. They can be converted to eating mealworms, but this is not always successful. I have tried various feeder insects with varying results: silkworms were completely ignored, superworms were only eaten once by a female that had just laid eggs and this was only a single worm, she has not eaten superworms since. I did manage to get my female gecko to eat mealworms, I had some spare crickets I was using to fatten up some Leopard Geckos and I offered my Fat Tailed gecko a few, since that day she has refused to eat mealworms and will only eat crickets. I have not tried cockroaches but I am certain that properly gut loaded crickets dusted with good quality supplements are just as nutritious. Feed hatchlings daily until they reach adult size. Feed non breeding adults three times a week. Geckos which you are breeding should be fed daily. I offer 4-6 appropriately sized crickets at a time. Hatchling Fat Tailed Geckos will eat small crickets, adults are capable of Whiteout Tangerine Albino Stripe. By Geckos.my An ideal setup for housing baby African Fat Tail geckos. eating medium to large crickets. Some keepers suggest occasionally feeding adult Fat Tailed Geckos pinkie mice. I find this unnecessary as these geckos do absolutely fine on an insect only based diet. 4. Gut Loading Feeder Insects and Supplements If you feed your geckos crickets or any other insects straight out of the tub you bought them in at the pet shop, then you are feeding your geckos a bunch of exoskeletons. Very few pet stores put any decent food in their cricket tubs so the crickets lack a nutritious gut content. This is where gut loading comes in. I buy my crickets from the pet store as soon as their fresh stock of crickets arrives. As soon as I get home I add some wheat bran and some slices of carrot or potato (potatoes are actually quite high in vitamin C and humans can get a good dose of it with fried chips) to the tub, I also add left over greens from my Bearded Dragon and gold fish flakes which contain a variety of nutrients to the crickets tub, this way the crickets stay alive for a very long time and are packed with nutrients and vitamins from the food they have been eating and your Fat Tailed Gecko is getting these when they eat the crickets. Studies with humans have proven that vitamins are unnecessary as your vitamin requirements are met from the food you eat, the same would be true with reptiles so gut load your gecko s crickets to provide it with the vitamins it needs. I have raised and maintained healthy Fat Tailed Geckos may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 19

22 May/June 2016 African Fattailed Geckos Hemitheconyx caudicinctus Zulu (c) IRES Reptiles Albino (c) IRES Reptiles Striped Caramel Whiteout (c) IRES Reptiles Oreo Whiteout (c) IRES Reptiles Striped Patternless Whiteout (c) IRES Reptiles Oreo (c) The Urban Gecko Zero (c) The Urban Gecko Patternless (c) The Urban Gecko 20 ultimate exotics may/june

23 Normal (c) The Urban Gecko Normal Stripe (c) The Urban Gecko Striped Whiteout (c) IRES Reptiles Ghost (c) The Urban Gecko Caramel Albino (c) The Urban Gecko Stinger (c) The Urban Gecko Patternless Whiteout (c) The Urban Gecko Striped Oreo Patternless Whiteout (c) Gecko Babies Striped Oreo Whiteout (c) The Urban Gecko may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 21

24 Oreo morph African Fat Tail juveniles bred by Geckos.my Zulu morph African Fat Tail juveniles bred by Geckos.my on gut loaded crickets without added vitamins, with the exception of calcium with vitamin D3 dusted on the crickets which I do at every feeding. It is not good husbandry practice to feed your gecko rubbish and make up for it by adding vitamins to its food. The one supplement that is absolutely necessary is calcium with added vitamin D3, as feeder insects are very low in calcium and geckos have very high calcium requirements, which means calcium must be added to their diets even if you gut load your crickets, as even properly gut loaded crickets will not contain enough calcium. Like all animals Fat Tailed Geckos cannot metabolise calcium without vitamin D3. As these geckos are nocturnal and do not get their vitamin D3 from UVB lighting you will have to add vitamin D3 to their diet, the easiest way to do this is to use a calcium supplement which contains vitamin D3. I prefer to use Exo Terra calcium with added D3 it is very fine and adheres to the crickets very well and is a top quality brand. Other brands of calcium powder can be used, I simply prefer this product and find it works very well. Calcium powder is best dusted directly onto feeder insects by putting the insects in a separate tub with a layer of calcium powder in the bottom, shake the tub to coat the insects with calcium. By doing this you will know for sure that your gecko is getting the calcium it needs when it eats the crickets. Crickets will clean calcium powder off themselves if left in the cage too long, which is why I recommend using a feeding tub. I will discuss the use of a feeding tub later in this article. 5. Brumation Unlike Leopard Geckos, African Fat Tailed Geckos require a period of cooling (brumation) at home before they breed. Keep your African Fat Tailed geckos at C for 6-8 weeks. This is especially important for the males. Summer temperatures should be C at the hot spot and 25 C in the cool side of the cage. Both brumation temperatures and summer temperatures can easily be regulated by using a good quality digital thermostat. Using a thermostat is especially important during brumation as you will still need to use a heater as the room temperatures in most of South African homes in winter are too cold for Fat Tailed Gecko brumation and you do not want to be turning heaters off and on manually. Fat Tailed Geckos tend to be seasonal breeders unlike Leopard Geckos which will start ovulating once they reach a certain weight and will then be ready to breed. Fat Tailed Geckos, on the other hand, will start ovulating after they come out of brumation in early spring and summer and will start breeding soon after. Stop feeding your Fat Tailed Geckos a few weeks prior to cooling them down to ensure there is no undigested food left in their guts which will not be properly digested once they are at brumation temperatures. Only brumate geckos which are a healthy weight and are in top physical condition. 6. Take Extra Care Of Males When Breeding We all put most of our efforts into maintaining healthy female geckos when breeding them and tend to forget about the males. With African Fat Tailed Geckos it is important to look after your males well during breeding season as they will stop eating and get very skinny during the breeding season as they have more exciting things on their minds than eating. Start off with males that are a healthy weight and feed them heavily when they will eat. Males will start eating again once breeding season is over, it s almost as if they have a switch in their heads with tells them when to breed and when to stop. Note that females will also lose weight during breeding due to the loss of fat reserves used to produce eggs and will also need to be fed as often as they will accept food. Both male and females will quickly gain weight after breeding is over if fed heavily. Male African Fat Tailed Geckos tend to be the problem child when it comes to breeding and an unsuccessful breeding season often has to do with the males rather than the females. 7. Use a Feeding Tub If you simply dump your crickets in your Leopard Gecko s cage, they will hide away under the substrate and avoid being eaten, and putting too many crickets in the cage can stress your gecko. I avoid this by using a feeding tub. For feeding tubs I use a small plastic deli cup for hatchlings and a small plastic terrarium 22 ultimate exotics may/june

25 Rack em and Stack em! Furniture quality racking systems and caging for reptiles Standard sizes and custom made available Designed with experience, built with care, glue and screws Warren: SnakesforAfrica Snakes for Africa may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 23

26 A adult tub rack system. Whiteout Oreo. By Geckos.my Aberrant Whiteout Het Oreo. By Geckos.my measuring 20cm square for juveniles and adults. I wait until early evening and then put 4-6 crickets dusted with calcium powder with D3 into the feeding tub, I then place the gecko in the tub with the crickets and turn off the lights. If they are hungry the geckos will usually start hunting the crickets straight away. I give them about 15 min before I check on them, usually the crickets have all been consumed in this time. By using a feeding tub you know exactly how many crickets your gecko is eating and you can more accurately monitor its food intake and you are assured that the calcium powder was eaten as the crickets will not have time to clean off the powder or have it rub off in the cage. 8. Always Buy Captive Bred Geckos African Fat Tailed Geckos are native to West Africa and are sometimes collected from the wild to be sold in the pet trade. There have been a few wild caught African Fat Tailed Geckos imported into South Africa recently. I have seen these specimens and they are in a shocking state and I would recommend that you avoid buying these like the plague. Luckily a few captive bred Fat Tailed Geckos are offered for sale at South African reptile expos and from South African reptile breeders. Purchasing a baby Fat Tailed Gecko will ensure that it is captive bred as all the wild caught African Fat Tailed Geckos are adults. As with all reptiles captive bred is always better, do not support pet shops who import and sell wild caught reptiles. African Fat Tailed Geckos are nowhere near as common as Leopard Geckos in the South African pet trade but if you look around you can find captive bred Fat Tailed Geckos including albino African Fat Tailed Geckos. Added information from Ultimate Exotics: Mutations In the past few years Fat Tail Geckos have become more available in the pet trade through captive breeding. Hobbyists have taken notice of Fat Tails as well because of all the recently emerging colour and pattern mutations. Fat tails can be kept by both experienced and new hobbyists, and the variety of attractive colour morphs becoming available as well as the new morphs that will soon be available, makes this species more desirable to work with. Fat Tail Geckos may soon rival the popularity of other commonly kept and bred geckos in the industry, and there is a lot of work that can be done with this species genetically for years to come. In just the past few years we have seen Patternless, White Outs, Zeros, and other morphs become available in other parts of the world. These morphs are yet to hit the South African market, although I am sure it won t be long before they do. Below is a list of Fat Tail mutations and their genetic backgrounds: Banded: Wild type Stripe: Dominant Albino: Recessive Caramel/Tangerine Albino: Recessive White Foot: Recessive Patternless: Recessive Oreo: Recessive Whiteout: Co-Dominant Zero: Recessive (At first thought to be co-dominant, the stinger/ zero form has been thought to be a heterozygous marker for the Super Zero) Super Zero: Recessive and allelic with Patternless Stinger: Recessive (At first thought to be co-dominant, the stinger/ zero form has been thought to be a heterozygous marker for the Super Stinger) Super Stinger: Recessive and allelic with Patternless Ghost: Recessive Zulu: Recessive Striped Whiteout 100% het Patternless. By Geckos.my 24 ultimate exotics may/june

27 Contact us on: may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 25

28 Snakes* PROBLEMATIC SNAKE FEEDING Make sure to purchase your snake from a reputable breeder where you know the snake has been feeding without any issues, this will ensure that you will have little hassle when it comes to your snake eating. ARTICLE BY By Sam Botha Hints and tips to get your snake eating Unfortunately, getting a snake to eat is not always as simple as putting a mouse in the tank to find it is gone the next morning. Occasionally, the snake will refuse to feed and it may be tricky to get going again. There are all sorts of feeding hints and tips, however, there is always a reason why a snake is not eating. Below there is a checklist of reasons, and then solutions to the problems: 1 Unsuitable vivarium / box 2 Insufficient heat 3 No cover or hiding area 4 Unsuitable food item 5 Recently wild caught animal 6 Other 1. Unsuitable Vivarium / Box Generally when a snake refuses to feed, the first thing you should consider, especially if it has been recently purchased, is if the environment is correct. Is your vivarium too large? It is possible to have something too small but this is rarely the case, as snakes often prefer tighter surroundings. Many keepers are so eager to put their hatchling snake in a 0.9m 1.2m vivarium that they are shocked to hear that this sort of treatment A good photo of a Striped African Fat-tailed Gecko taken in a light tent with a white background. 26 ultimate exotics may/june

29 It is important that all snakes have a thermal gradient, meaning they can go to one end of the enclosure to warm up, and move to the opposite end to cool off again. Magazine Binders! can eventually lead to the death of the snake. The vivarium / box should gradually get larger as the snake grows. For a hatchling snake a Tupperware box no larger than the length of the snake should be provided. 2. Insufficient Heat All snakes should have a thermal gradient, meaning they can go to one end of the enclosure to warm up, and move to the opposite end to cool off again. If the snake is kept too warm, its metabolic rate will speed up, which will generally not cause it to go off its food, but it will need more food to keep it going. If the snake is kept too cool, it may go off its food. Not only that, its metabolic rate will have slowed down causing the digestive system to function Possibly the most crucial factor of keeping snakes is that they must feel secure. Make sure to have a hide in their enclosure. slower than usual, which may cause the snake to regurgitate any food which it may have swallowed. 3. No cover or hiding area When keeping snakes in a Tupperware box, a hiding place may not be totally necessary, especially if you have a deep layer of substrate for the snake to hide in. However, possibly the most crucial factor of keeping snakes is that they must feel secure. Whether you decide to use an ice cream tub, a cereal box or a naturalistic piece of cork bark, the snake must have an area to retreat where it feels safe. The size of the hiding area is also important. It must be large enough to fit the snake in, with very little room Keep your Ultimate Exotics magazines safe and in good condition with these new Ultimate Exotics magazine binders Only R150 including FREE delivery! or R390 for 3 binders! Holds 6 issues (1 year s worth of issues) How to Order Go to and order online! Call us on or us on editor@ultimateexotics.co.za may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 27

30 Durango Mountain Kingsnake eating. Many keepers believe certain snakes will only take particular coloured rodents. Try white, brown and black rodents or any other colours you can find. T- Albino Blood Python. Try using freshly killed mice; this will smell a lot more and should also still be warm for anything else. You may also use artificial plants and branches which cover a higher area in the vivarium. Some snakes may feel more secure among the leaves and branches. If the snake refuses to feed with all these hiding places provided, it is worth placing the food in the hiding place itself, or in its entrance. The snake may feel secure, but not secure enough to venture out to feed. This technique often works with newly acquired specimens. 4. Unsuitable food item There are many ways of offering your snake a food item. Firstly you need to figure out the size food item it needs. A rule of thumb is that the size of food offered should be no wider than the girth of the snake. If the snake refuses the food, try something smaller. Below are some bullet points that explain different food items and your method of feeding them: Try offering mice and rats of varying sizes. If these fail, try chicks, gerbils, hamsters or similar sized rodents or birds. Many keepers believe certain snakes will only take particular coloured rodents. Try white, brown and black rodents or any other colours you can find. Scenting the food item with a lizard, frog, chick, fish, canned fish oil or a live mouse may stimulate its feeding response. Try using freshly killed mice; this will smell a lot more and should also still be warm. This method works in many cases and is worth considering. Try cutting the tip of the nose off the rodent to expose the flesh slightly. Braining is another method this works by using a pin or a sharp knife and slicing the top of the rodent s head, exposing the brain. For some reason brain smells good to snakes! Do not touch the food item; Breeders Most Wanted. The Stormtrooper This amazing Ball Python was bred by JD Constriction. Since I haven t yet figured out the genetics of this beauty a few folks have playfully called her a Stormtrooper which I think is super fitting as I m a huge fan! So until the genes are figured out I think that s a great pet name for her! - JD Some helpful info! This morph does is not just a nice Pastel Axanthic, which is what it s parents genetics contained (is there is another gene going on or it is a fluke?). If it s not a fluke, a best guess is that the parents carry a recessive gene, something like Desert Ghost along with Pastel and Axanthic. Only more time will tell what the secrete is behind this amazing combo morph and I can wait to see more of them in the future. For more info visit jdconstriction.com. 28 ultimate exotics may/june

31 Emerald Tree Boa eating. Do not touch the food item; occasionally if it smells the owner on the food, it will not go for it. Mealworms for sale! occasionally if it smells the owner on the food, it will not go for it. Try heating up the rodent; put it on a heat mat for a few minutes, or dipping the head in boiling water. Be careful not to overheat the food item, as it may be so hot it will literally split the stomach, which is not pretty! Tease feeding is a method commonly used by many keepers; this involves a pair of long forceps or tweezers, and literally wriggling the food around in front of the snake, acting as if it was alive. If this fails, try lightly tapping the snake on the nose with the food, sometimes they appear to strike out of anger, then if it connects with the rodents head it will often coil round and constrict as a natural reaction. Live feeding is a method which should be the last resort. There are many keepers which are capable of getting almost any snake feeding without resorting to feeding live. However the more novice keepers may not be capable of trying all the tricks of the trade. Before resorting to feeding live, phone around a few known herpetologists and ask for help. Any herpetologist who is a member of some type of club or organization is usually more than willing to lend a helping hand. Live feeding is not a bad thing in its own right, but often a snake will take to live food and begin to refuse anything else. Unless you have easy access to live mice, this should be avoided. 5. Recently Wild Caught Animal This could possibly be the trickiest problem to solve in terms of feeding. A wild caught snake will have been feeding on live animals all of its life. So, to take it out of its natural environment into unfamiliar surroundings and offer it a dead mouse is often just asking too much! Not only will it have only fed on live, but it will have come across Minimum Order 2kgs R300 per kg Wholesale prices available for regular bulk orders. Superworms for sale! A silver Corn Snake eating a pinkie mouse. Minimum Order of 2000 worms R300 for a 1000 worms To order call me on or david@dennison.co.za may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 29

32 A Ghost Stripe Corn Snake eating. Red Tail Boa eating a rat. almost every animal which it naturally co-habits with, such frogs, lizards, small rodents, birds and bird eggs, plus other smaller snakes and many more potential food sources. The snake could have been feeding on a dozen or so food items throughout its life, so be sure to try as much as possible. 6. Other Breeding season is a common time when snakes stop eating. Males very often refuse to feed because they are thinking more about mating than anything else. This is well known with many snakes and generally starts from February through to May, depending on the breeding cycle of the snake in question. Females rarely go off their food when it comes to breeding, as they need all the fat reserves to produce the eggs. It is not uncommon, however, for the female to stop feeding about a month or so before she lays her eggs. The reason for this is not quite clear, it could be because the eggs take up so much room in the snake s body that it may become hard to digest and process the food. The only solution to this is to wait and keep trying; it should not last longer than 2-3 months and for a healthy snake, it will not be affected. Stress is a big killer in snakes, and it can be bought on by many reasons. One major factor is over handling. Many owners buy a pet snake and all they want to do is play with it. This is commonplace, but the snake needs its own time just like anyone else. I suggest for a newly acquired hatchling snake it should be handled for no more than 20 minutes per day. This can be spread out into 10 minute intervals if you wish, but the less you handle it the better. As it grows older and becomes more accustomed to you, you can gradually handle it more and more. If the snake refuses to feed, the first thing you should do is to stop handling it as it just adds more stress. Other methods for non feeders 1 Drying the snake out This method stimulates the snake to look for moisture which can be in a food item. Take the water bowl out for about a week and move the temperature up just a couple of degrees. After a week, soak an appropriate sized rodent in water to defrost, and offer it to the snake dripping wet. Make sure the snake is not offered the food item on a substrate such as wood chips or aspen. You should keep your snake on newspaper for this whole process. If the snake begins to look at all emaciated, place the water back in immediately. This whole process should be monitored extremely carefully. 2 If the snake is very young or small, try offering the tails of rodents, or chick legs. These are easier to swallow and may stimulate them to feed. If it will only eat these food items instead of pinky mice, you must coat them in a vitamin and calcium supplement. A good balanced vitamin supplement is Repton. 3 Try offering the food at different times of the day. Most snakes are primarily nocturnal, however they may prefer to take the food in the early hours of the morning rather than evening. 4 Place the food in different areas of the vivarium. Try up higher in a branch or underneath the hiding area. Many keepers have had success by placing a rodent in the middle of a toilet roll. The snake will feel secure in this and is a perfect hide area to safely eat its prey. 5 The temperature of the food is sometimes a stimulant. Keep the food at normal room temperature to begin with, but if this fails, place it on a radiator or something similar until the food item is hot. 6 If your snake is a hatchling, try and find a small, dark pot with a secure lid. The tubs which wax moth larvae are offered in are perfect. Place a pinkie and the snake in this tub together and then place in a warm area; but not directly on a heat source. Leave it overnight and with any luck the food will have disappeared. Try also to use the braining method and placing it in the tub. Always try your best to avoid purchasing wild caught animals. Captive bred animals are much better suited to captivity and will do a lot better long term. In conclusion, make sure to purchase your snake from a reputable breeder where you know the snake has been feeding without any issues, this will ensure that you will have little hassle when it comes to your snake eating. If the snake gives you trouble you can ask the breeder for advice and they can help you to make sure you have all the correct conditions and get your snake eating correctly. 30 ultimate exotics may/june

33 DITALO Subscribe Online REPTILES Breeders of top quality reptiles and rodents Contact us: John Chinn Quality Captive Bred Reptiles for Sale! WhatsApp us on Wholesale Prices Ultimate Exotics Contact us now for a pricelist! For more info reptiles@ultimateexotics.co.za or Call: may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 31

34 Medical* Constipation in Reptiles In reptiles, one of the most common causes is dehydration. Water is absorbed by the colon and the lack of water causes the colon to absorb a large amount of water from the faeces ARTICLE BY David Brown Emerald Tree Boas are specialist snakes and are prone to constipation if not taken care of correctly. Constipation in reptiles is not always a common problem but can happen from time to time. If not dealt with correctly it could lead to more serious health problems that will be much more difficult for your reptile to overcome. Constipation is generally the condition in which faeces in the colon are difficult to pass. This can be brought about by a number of reasons. Diet is certainly an issue in many species and diet is one of the major causes in mammals. For example, when a snake is fed thawed frozen food, there is sometimes less water present in the food than in its natural state. Since snakes get most of their water intake from food in nature, the faeces are drier than usual and can cause a blockage. Also, if the temperature in the snake s environment is lower than it should be for the species, the snake may take to conserving its heat deep within its body to enable it to function. This will cook the faeces in the gut, again causing it to harden and be difficult to pass. Low environmental humidity will also have a similar effect. Most snakes will continue to eat when constipated until the gut is so full it quite literally won t take any more. At this point the snake is very ill indeed, but hopefully the careful owner will have already spotted its distress and will have taken it to the vet. Snakes that do not move around much like Green Tree Pythons, Emerald Tree Boas and Rhino Vipers have been known to suffer from constipation due to lack of environmental stimulation and incorrect environmental requirements and over feeding. If this is not dealt with correctly it will lead to a prolapse. In reptiles, one of the most common causes is dehydration. Water is absorbed by the colon and the lack of water causes the colon to absorb a large amount of water from the faeces. This results in a dry faecal mass that is difficult to pass through the rectum or cloaca. Mammals and reptiles suffer from this form of constipation. If an animal is producing dry faeces the first thing to do is to increase the availability of water. If this is unsuccessful in alleviating the problem, the diet must be looked at. In many reptiles, 32 ultimate exotics may/june

35 A Blood Python showing signs of constipation. A Ball Python showing signs of constipation. the diet is not an easy issue. Snakes are carnivores and strictly so. Therefore it would seem there is little that can be done to alter the diet, but this is not the case. In the case of snakes or similar animals that devour their prey whole or in its entirety, the diet can be altered by altering the diet of the prey. Fibre can be introduced by allowing the prey species to eat a high fibre diet before feeding it to the predator. The stomach and intestinal contents will be ingested by the snake and the fibre in the gut of the mouse will be incorporated into the faeces of the snake. Fibre acts like a sponge and increases the water retention of the faecal mass and allows easier passage. Bran can be given to the prey to accomplish this. Constipation is uncomfortable, but usually not life threatening if treated. If left untreated, the constipation can progress to the next stages. In summary, the following outlines are provided. Top 10 causes of constipation in order of consideration: 1 Dehydration; 2 Lack of fibre in the diet and/or poor diet quality; 3 Enteric parasites; 4 Traumatic injury to the pelvic canal; 5 Enteric neoplasia; 6 Renal disease with enlargement from nephritis, urolithosis or neoplasia; 7 Presence of eggs; 8 Abscesses or granulomas; 9 Nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism leading to collapse of the pelvic canal; 10 Calcium deficiency leading to presumptive ineffective peristaltic motion in the gut or generalized muscle weakness. Mild clinical signs of constipation: 1 Straining to defecate; 2 Lethargy; 3 Irritability - more snappy or more prone to bite; 4 Fresh stools are drier and/or harder than normal; 5 Stools are larger than normal. Moderate clinical signs of constipation: 1 Appetite loss; 2 Increased lethargy; 3 Lack of consistent faecal deposition in the cage. Treatment of constipation The first thing to understand is that constipation is generally a symptom of a larger problem. The best treatment is good diet and regular veterinary care. 1 Gut load prey items with fibre containing foods or feed greens and Psyllium; 2 Make a dilute Psyllium solution and give with dropper; 3 Soak the snake for fifteen minutes in warm water. This will soften any faeces blocking the exit and will hopefully allow it to pass. It will also relax the snake, making passing a painful stool easier. Stools can become so hard that they are called fecoliths faecal stones. Often treatment can be as simple as adjusting the environment; making it warmer and damper. Looking at the bedding is a good place to start. Some materials tend to soak up atmospheric water and make the air too dry. Handling the snake where appropriate may also help a semi-hard stool to pass. These should be done to end the current bout of constipation, and fibre in the diet should be maintained from then on. Giving a light dusting of psyllium powder can work, but it is better to make a dilute psyllium solution and spray it on the food and allow to dry. This can be done long term and help keep your reptile regular. may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 33

36 Arachnids* Sexing may seem daunting and confusing at first, but with enough practice, most keepers will be successfully identifying the genders of larger specimens in no time. A young Mexican Red Knee (Brachypelma smithi) Sexing Tarantulas ARTICLE BY By Tom s Big Spiders For most tarantula keepers, females are where it s at. It s not that we don t have love for their male counterparts. In fact, some male species like Phormictopus and Pamphobeteus are more colourful and stunning than the females. No, in most instances, the reason comes down to longevity and their ability to produce young. Female tarantulas are much more long-lived than their male counterparts, often thriving decades after the males have matured and expired. Females can also be bred to produce slings, an integral and fascinating part of the hobby for many. The story is a bit different for male tarantulas. Some species of male tarantulas can mature in just over a year, leaving you with a leggy, antsy boy who wanders around his enclosure in a desperate attempt to fulfil his life s goal to mate with a willing female. At this point, the best thing you can do for this tarantula that you have lovingly raised and cared for is to ship him off to someone with a female for breeding, leaving you with an empty cage. Sure, you can do a breeding trade for half of the slings a successful pairing produces, but not all attempts end in viable sacks, and some end with the male being unceremoniously munched. Those who enjoy raising tarantulas (and who don t feel like paying the higher prices for sexed females) will often pick up spiderlings. As small slings are often difficult, if not impossible, to sex accurately, you never know exactly what you re getting when you pick up a tiny spiderling. Many keepers (myself included) will pick up three or more slings of the same species at a time to increase their chances of getting a female. You then feed them, love them, and watch for signs that you might have hit the spider jackpot with a female. Sometimes you notice one growing faster than the others, and immediately suspect a male. After all, males in many species will grow and mature faster. Other times, you see the spider s underside pressed up against the side of its enclosure and you swear you see female parts. And still others, you ll latch on to some physically dimorphic feature, like colour or patterning, in hopes that it indicates a female. Any keeper who has patiently waited to sex a spider they have raised from the sling stage has undoubtedly experienced the thrill of discovering they have raised a young lady or the let-down that their beloved pet is a more short-lived male. How do you sex a tarantula? There are several methods keepers to use to determine the sex of their tarantulas, but many are not very accurate or require the keeper to have plenty of experience as well as a keen understanding of the anatomy of many species. 34 ultimate exotics may/june

37 Female Male Anterior Book Lung Epigastric furrow Quality Reptile Supplies and Captive Bred Reptiles! Spermathecae (The bulge) Contact Tim A clear view of the epigastric furrow One method used to sex tarantulas is ventral sexing, which entails examining the tarantula s ventral area (the bottom of the tarantula) around the epigastric furrow to try to determine its gender. The epigastric furrow is an opening between the set of book lungs closest to the cephalothorax (body) of the spider. Folks using this method will compare the curve of the furrow, the distance between the anterior book lungs, and the angle of the lungs to determine gender. In females of some species, the epigastric furrow is more pronounced, with what can be described as lips. In others, it is not nearly as pronounced. This method takes plenty of practice and knowledge of what both the female and male characteristics of each species are. Keepers attempting this technique will want to do some research and get some photos of both males and females for comparison. Personally, I don t even try to sex via ventral shots anymore, as I don t feel that I m particularly good at it, and it s often not very accurate. Sure, some species like some of the Poecilotheria sport some fairly obvious lady parts early on, but others can be quite misleading and difficult to determine. Arachnoboards has a wonderful area where keepers can post ventral shots of their tarantulas so that others can determine the sex, but due to the trickiness of using this technique, many of the responses are just guesses (as evidenced by the same spiders being proven to be a different sex later on). Still, if you attempt this method, try posting a good ventral photo up on this board to get some other opinions. There is also the epiandrous fusillae method. With this technique, the keeper looks for epiandrous fusillae, or a second set of micro spinnerets used by mature male tarantulas to create sperm webs. This is a technique that requires a keen eye and a lot of practice, so it might not be the most appropriate for some keepers, especially those new to the hobby. Sexing your spider using the moult The best way to your tarantula is to examine its exuvia or moulted exoskeleton. An intact moult from a larger specimen (smaller specimens may require use of a microscope) can be examined for evidence of the female s spermathecae, or the receptacle the female that stores the male s sperm in. This organ is often S.A s Top Tarantula Site Tarantulas For Sale! Scorpions For Sale! Roaches For Sale! tim@petbugs.co.za may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 35

38 Back Issues Go to and order online! Contact us: described as a little flap or pouch above the epigastic furrow. Although this method can be tricky at first, especially with smaller specimens, it s the most accurate and easy to practice. All you need is an intact moult, some good lighting, and you can give it a shot. Here s how to go about it: 1. First off, you ll want to do some research and find reference photos for both a male and female of the species you want to sex. I would encourage folks to hop on Arachnoboards Tarantula Sexing board and check out some of the shots there, or do a Google or Bing image search and study some of those. Every species is different, so looking at a moult from a L. parahybana might not be useful for determining the sex of a GBB. 2. Next, you need a moult that has the abdomen flesh containing the book lungs intact. If the abdomen has been completely shredded in this area, you will find it difficult or impossible to sex the moult. I try to grab the moults from spiders I want to sex right after they moult (as long as I can do it without disturbing the tarantula). 3. You need to soften up the exuvia, or moult, to make it less fragile and more pliable. I use a very small spray bottle and give it a few squirts. I then wait a few minutes for the moult to soften up. Other folks will drop the moult into a dish of warm water for a minute or so. Either of these methods work, just use care when handling the moult not to tear it or get urticating hairs on you. You may also want to put it on a piece of paper towel to wick up some of the excess water. 4. Position the moult so that the fangs are facing up and the moult is on its back on your well-lit working area. I like to use white plates myself, but a piece of foam board would be great if you want to pin the moult down. Now, carefully spread out the legs and unfurl the abdominal skin if it has become twisted. Work slowly and Top Q uality H ook Sticks & Grab Sticks ORDER ONLINE FREE DELIVERY A comparison of molts from a 8.5cm male and a 8.5cm female T. stirmi. The piece of paper on the female molt is showing the flap. 36 ultimate exotics may/june

39 carefully, as the area that you need to sex the moult is VERY fragile and will tear. I will usually use toothpicks and cotton swaps to unfurl mine. You want to open up this abdominal skin so that you can see the underside of the area where the two sets of book lungs are. 5. Now, some folks will immediately spot a slit between the set of book lungs closest to the body and think that they have a girl. Not so. This slit is found on both males and females. What you are looking for is a pronounced flap or the spermathecae, which will be above the epigastic furrow if present. The smaller the specimen, the more difficult this area can be to see. I often use a magnifying glass or take a close-up photo with my phone to get a better look. On well-developed females, you can even take a small piece of paper and slide it behind the flap to be sure. If you find the spermathecae, congratulations it s a girl! If not, and you are sexing a larger specimen, you are likely looking at a male. You can always try again on a future moult to doublecheck. Now this all sounds quite simple, but it s not always that cut and dried. Some species don t develop enough for the casual keeper to sex until later in their life cycles. Also, males from some species will have organs that can be mistaken for spermathecae, meaning that sexing those species can be a bit more challenging. If you are trying to sex your pet, you should spend some time researching and examining moult photos from both the males and females of the species. For some wonderful reference diagrams of the spermathecae of females from different species, check out this site. A Google search will also bring up several useful photos, and you can also check the sexing topic on Arachnoboards and compare the photos. Recognizing mature males It should be mentioned that mature males GROW YOUR BUSINESS!!! South Africa s only reptile and exotic pet magazine. Distributed country wide to selected Pet Stores and CNAs near you! Phone us or us now for advertising rates - from only R140!! SELL MORE REPTILES!! Do you need us to design an advert for you? We will do it free of charge! Download a view our complete rate card at Contact us now at Dennison Publishing on or us at adverts@dennisonpublishing.co.za may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 37

40 L. itabunae female molt with the spermathecae highlighted. L. itabunae female molt with the spermathecae highlighted. can be quite easy to sex, and you will often hear keepers refer to their males as hooking out. This expression comes from the fact that males from some species develop tibial hooks behind the knees of their first set of walking legs upon maturing. The key word here is some, as many species will not present this feature while others, like some in the Avicularia genus, will have hooks too small to see. Honestly, the phrase should be changed to bulbing out or something similar, as keepers should be keeping an eye out for another telltale feature; namely the bulb-like emboli at the end of the male pedipalps. The pedipalps are the shorter set of appendages inside the first set of walking legs that look like shorter legs. When a male spider has his ultimate moult, he develops emboli, or essentially the male s sexual organ used to deliver the sperm to the female, on the end of his pedipalps. Instead of the ends of these appendages looking like the rest of the tarantula s feet, they will instead be round and bulbous (some keepers refer to them as boxing gloves). Because all male tarantulas will develop this feature, it makes more sense to look for emboli when trying to determine if your spider is a mature male or not. Not only do males mature much faster than their female counterparts, but there are often many physical differences between a male and female of the same species. First off, males tend to be thinner and leggier than the girls, who are much more heavy-bodied. Many male tarantulas have different colouration than females, with some being very pronounced. Female L. violceopes, for example, sport gorgeous iridescent blues and purples upon reaching maturity. Males, on the other hand, are brownish to olive in colour. Some males also mature at a much smaller size than the females of the same species; this can lead to some confusion for keepers who discover that their gangly male is done growing at 12.5cm and will never reach the 18cm max size of the females they ve read about. Unfortunately, many of these features won t appear until the specimen s ultimate moult, so those using this method would literally be discovering their pet s sex at the latest possible opportunity. Lots of practice is required! No matter which method you choose to try to sex your specimen, research and practice are key. I have examined over a hundred moults now and spent countless hours staring at sexed moults on my computer screen. And although I feel like I ve definitely got the hang of it, I still have difficulties at times. I m certainly not an expert yet. When you re first starting out, be sure to try and sex every moult you can. Do you have specimens that are already sexed male or female? If so, examine and photograph their moults as practice and to use as references. With all of the variations between species, it can be very difficult to know what to look for. I would encourage anyone attempting to sex their tarantula to look up the species first and find out all you can about its anatomy or any sexual dimorphism. Some questions you should be researching are: Are their differences in colouration, markings, or bandings between the sexes? Is this a species that can be sexed ventrally with accuracy? What is the shape of the female s spermathecae? At what size to the genders become apparent enough to accurately sex by moult? Does the male of this species have an organ that could be mistaken for a spermathecae? Does the male of this species have tibial hooks? Sexing may seem daunting and confusing at first, but with enough practice, most keepers will be successfully identifying the genders of larger specimens in no time. And honestly, the first time you examine a moult and discover that the sling you have raised for a year is a little lady makes all of the effort and frustration worth it. 38 ultimate exotics may/june

41 Classifieds These adverts are FREE to anyone who breeds any type of exotic animal. We will have columns for different species, so if you have anything to sell let us know. Call us at Ultimate Exotics on or your ad to EQUIPMENT For sale: We build a wide variety of racking systems and display cages to meet your reptiles needs. Contact Byron on For Sale: Snake sexing probe kit. R345, Free postage anywhere in S.A. 9 Piece Snake Sexing Probe Set Extensively Polished with Deburred Ball Tip for Ultra Smooth Surface High Quality Stainless Steel Probes that suit all size snakes from adult Reticulated Pythons to new born Amazon Tree Boas Comes with a neat zip-up pouch to keep them safe and hygienic Digital Temperature Controller. R395, free postage anywhere in S.A. Controls heat in your racking system Makes sure your reptile s heat source is at the optimal temperature all time. Great for incubators. Day/Night Digital Temperature Controller. R575, free postage anywhere in S.A. Set separate day and night temperatures. Perfect for cycling Ball Pythons and incubating eggs. Makes sure your reptile s heat source is at the optimal temperature all time. Also has a second plug point with a digital timer for lights, great for display enclosures. Temperature Gun. R320, free postage anywhere in S.A. Easy and accurate way of measuring temperatures in your reptiles enclosure Great for double checking hot spots in your animals cage and double checking egg and incubator temperatures Essential tool for all reptile keepers, we use ours all the time, as temperature is one of the most important factors in reptile husbandry! Herpetological Clubs and Associations in South Africa ASSOCIATION OF REPTILE KEEPERS (KZN) Chairman: JP Wittstock Vice-Chairman: Clinton Thomson Secretary: Sam Taylor Treasurer: Celeste Thomson ark.kzn@gmail.com Website: TRANSVAAL HERPETOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION (THA) Chairman: Arno Naude Secretary: Jo Pienke Treasurer: Stoffel de Beer Editor: Heidi Pfeifer Website: EAST RAND HERPETOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION (ERHA) Chairman: Jens Reissig Treasurer: Coleen Tiedemann CAPE REPTILE CLUB Chairman : Deon Louw Acting Chariman: Pierre Joubert website : information : information@capereptileclub. co.za or me : arcadies@gamernet.co.za WESTRAND HERPETOLIGICAL ASSOCIATION: Chairperson: Clint Halket- Siddall; Cell: ; timzedi@ gmail.com. Vice Chairperson: André Lourens; spottymonty@gmail.com. com; Cell: ; Newsletter editor : Timothy Zedi; Cell: ; timzedi@gmail.com. Treasurer: Riette Visser; mailto:riette.visser@gmail. com; Cell: co Treasurer: Thomas Prinsloo; Cell: ; prinslootf@gmail.com LOWVELD HERPETOLIGICAL ASSOCIATION: Chairman: Chris Hobkirk Treasurer: Dane Ross l.h.a@live.co.za WESTERN CAPE HERPETOLIGICAL ASSOCIATION wcha@snakebite.com Facebook: groups/ / Contact Rolf: editor@ ultimateexotics.co.za, tel: cell or whatsapp: For more info on products see Order Online! We would like to encourage any Heretological Clubs and Associations in South Africa who is not on this list to please contact us on or editor@ ultimateexotics.co.za so that we can place you on our list free of charge. may/june 2016 ultimate exotics 39

42 For Sale: Corn Snakes: Normal Corn Snakes Albino Corn Snakes Silver Corn Snakes Normal Motley Corn Snakes Albino Motley Corn Snakes Ghost Motley Corn Snakes Candy Cane Corn Snakes Butter Corn Snakes Kingsnakes: High Yellow Californian Kingsnake Banana Californian Kingsnakes Desert x High White Californian Kingsnakes High White Californian Kingsnakes Hypo Florida Kingsnakes Florida Kingsnakes Prairie Kingsnakes Durango Mountain Kingsnake Sonoran Dessert Kingsnake Grey Banded Kingsnakes Eastern Chain Kingsnakes Mex Mex Kingsnakes Variable Kingsnakes Milks Snakes: Tangerine Hondurans Anerythristic Hondurans Sock-head Pueblan MilkSnakes Pueblan Milk Snakes Apricot Pueblan Milk Snakes Apricot Sock-head Pueblan Milk Snakes Sinaloan Milk Snakes Albino Sinaloan Milk Snakes House Snakes Hybino House Snakes (T+ Albino/ Hypo) T - Albino House Snakes Normal House Snakes Pythons Ball Python Males Ball Python Females Pastel Females Pastel Males Spider Males Pinstripe Male x 1 Enchi Males Enchi Females Spotted Pythons Iran Jaya Carpet Pythons Costal Carpet Pythons Contact Rolf: reptiles@ ultimateexotics.co.za, tel: cell: Can send anywhere in S.A and can send overnight to Jhb and Pta for only R75! For Sale: 2 x Male Amazon Tree Boas. Stunning Yellow. R1200each Labyrinth Burmese pos het Albino R2200 Albino Boa Females. R1600ea Yearling male Pastel pos het Axanthic. R1500 Yearling Yellow Belly Males x 2. R1200ea Cape Coral females x 2. R850ea Contact: John on For Sale: Pair of jampea dwarf reticulated pythons for sale,both -+2.5m long,stunning pair...r7000 for the pair Contact me on Whatsapp, SMS or Call Arachnids For Sale: Theraphosa Stirmi (Burgundy Goliath Birdeater) Female 20cm+ Male 15cm R Acanthoscurria Juruenicola (Brazilian Orange Banded) male 15cm R500 2.Acanthoscurria Geniculata (Giant White Knee) sling R100 3.Aphonopelma Seemanni (Costa-Rican Zebra Tarantula) 3cm R500 4.Avicularia Avicularia (Avic Avic Pink Toe) 10cm R800 8.Avicularia Purpurea (Purple Pink Toe) 10cm R Brachypelma Auratum (Mexican Flame Knee) 14cm female R Brachypelma Vagans (Mexican Red Rump) MF R Chromatopelma Cyaneopubescens (Green Bottle Blue) 8cm R Cyclosternum Fasciatum (Costa Rican Tiger) 10cm R Cyriocosmus Perezmilesi (Bolivian Dwarf Beauty) 1cm R Haplopelma Minax (Thailand BlackTarantula) 7cm R Lampropelma sp (Borneo Black) 10cm male R500 Photo s is on Tarantula 8 legged pets on facebook Contact Elize Feeder Foods For Sale: Live/Frozen Mice: Pinks - R3.00 Fuzzies - R3.00 Weaned - R5.00 Large - R6.00 Rats Pinks - R3.50 Fuzzies - R5.00 Weaner - R10.00 Medium - R15.00 Large - R20.00 Contact: John on For Sale: Mealworms! R275 per Kg excl. Delivery. Contact David on advertisers index Advertise in Ultimate Exotics Avi-Plus Ball Python Morphs.co.za Creatures & Critters Designer Python Ditalo Reptiles Exo Terra... 1, 7 Exotic Supplies Experienced Reptiles... 9 Feeder Factory Feeding Tweezers...9 Hooks Sticks and Grab Sticks...36 JurassiPet... C2 Magazine Binders Pangea Foods Petbugs.co.za...35 Rack em and Stack em...23 Repashy Superfoods...23 Royal Designer Reptiles...36 Shady Streams Livefoods...29 Snakes Alive Subscription Special... C3 Temperature Controllers The Gecko Tree...23 The Venom Pit Tim s Reptiles...35 UE Reptile Breeding Facility Ultimate Exotics Back Issues...36 Zoo-Med... C4, ultimate exotics may/june

43 Winter SPECIAL! SUBSCRIBE AND QUOTE WINTER AND RECEIVE 2 EXTRA ISSUES FREE - SAVE OVER R80!!!! It s Easy! Choose one of the 3 options: us at editor@ultimateexotics.co.za or Call us on and we can process your subscription over the phone! or Visit and subscribe online Special ends 28th of February 2016 For more info contact us on: Tel: or editor@ultimateexotics.co.za

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