britain s favourite dedicated marine magazine

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1 britain s favourite dedicated marine magazine Issue 21 May-Jun Tristan Lougher SEAHORSE & PIPEFISH Are these mythical creatures right for you? what you can learn inside Lighting terminology Testing for newbies Aquascaping tips Fish biology Feeding Goniapora john clipperton Species Care guides Lyretail Anthias Yellow Finger Gorgonian Blood Shrimp ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE: Expert Advice Lighting The Aquarium Marine Aquarium (Initial Testing) Local Fish Shop Gear Guide News Round-up Biology Class (Lateral Line) Hobbyist Profile (John McFarlane) Docile Damselfishes Coral Reef Research Laboratory Tour Marine For All - Beginners to Advanced

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3 Phudui Dreamstime.com Phudui Dreamstime.com BEGINNER TIP AQUASCAPING Aquascaping a display tank is one of the most enjoyable tasks, but for a variety of reasons, it does require considerable planning. The main consideration for those who are less experienced is the aesthetic element. It is obviously important to make the display look nice to those viewing from the outside, but this should not be where the planning stops. Here are some extra tips to consider, which are often realised through trial and error. Firstly, the positioning of rockwork can make or break the flow of water around the aquarium, which in turn will determine whether corals thrive or struggle over time. Secondly, do not ignore access requirements from a maintenance perspective. For example, if you are positioning a brittle coral, avoid placing it somewhere that could easily be knocked during glass-cleaning sessions. It is often suggested that rockwork be raised off the floor to allow for water flow, but you should also take into account whether, if something falls into the space under the rock, you are able to retrieve it. And finally, be mindful of the fish and coral species you are likely to keep, and accommodate their needs from the start. Once established, rockwork is much more difficult to reposition and should be avoided in order to reduce disruption. BY DAVE PITT Marine Habitat 3

4 Issue 21 May-June 2014 Cover Image: Spotted Seahorse (Hippocampus kuda) Johan Larson Dreamstime.com Issue 21 May-Jun 2014 EDITORIAL Editor - Dave Pitt Publishing Coord. - Cat Hartley Copy Editor - Katherine Sansom Proofreader - Lynda Glover News Editor - Dylan Taylor DESIGN Design Manager Asst. Designer WEB Web Manager - Andy Gascoigne - Tim Hurst - Chris Arthur WRITERS & PHOTOGRAPHERS Bob Goemans, Dylan Taylor, John Clipperton, John McFarlane, Neil Davison, Nick Bryan, Paul Tyson, Shane Mitchell, Scott Michael, Tom Hird, Tristan Lougher. CONTRIBUTING FORUMS PUBLISHER Fish Junkies Ltd., Unit A15 Alison Business Centre, 40 Alison Crescent, Sheffield S2 1AS Tel: (UK only) enquiries@fishjunkies.co.uk Web: Customer Service - Cat Hartley Advertising Sales - Lotte Slinn Subscription Sales - Joe Broadhead Accounts - Barbara Maycock Newstrade - Magazine Workshop magazineworkshop.co.uk Printing - Buxton Press Ltd. buxtonpress.com Join us on Facebook or Twitter now Fish Junkies Ltd. thoroughly checks the accuracy of all incoming content, however, will not be held responsible for inaccuracies within supplied content. All rights reserved. No part of Marine Habitat may be reproduced in any way without prior written consent from Fish Junkies Ltd. Copyright 2014 by Fish Junkies Ltd. Spring has arrived, and during the on-sale period of this issue, everything is going to come to life outside what a great time of year. For me, spring always puts me in the mood to organise and clean things like the house, the car and the tank/s and associated equipment. It s easy to let the months roll by with a quick wipe of the glass and clean of the filter media, but every now and then there is great value in having a proper spring-clean. During this process, I like to remove each piece of equipment and clean it properly one tip here though, is to do one thing at a time. While cleaning is great, it s often the case that things keep working until they are tampered with, and so if you have a piece of equipment that has been running fine for years and you decide to remove it for cleaning, there is always the possibility that this disturbance may cause a problem, so doing one item at a time reduces the risk. In addition to the equipment, I also remove and clean any pipes and/or connectors. This is a great opportunity to re-check seals, and ensure taps, etc. are working. So that s my plan of action. Without further ado, I ll leave you to grab a cup of tea (if you haven t already got one), and read through some of the great articles in this issue. Happy fishkeeping, Dave Pitt, editor Registered Office: Fish Junkies Ltd., Unit B4, Alison Business Centre, 40 Alison Cresent, Sheffield S2 1AS Company No.: Registered in England & Wales. GOT SOMETHING TO SAY? the editor at: editor.mh@fishjunkies.co.uk 6 Marine Habitat

5 ON THE COVER >> Ultimate Species Guide 21 John Clipperton Your collectable profiles this time are: Lyretail Anthias, Gorgonian Coral and Blood Shrimp. John Clipperton provides a description of their natural environment, and their captive care requirements. >> Top of the Rocks 53 Seahorses and Pipefish Tristan Lougher Creatures of myth and legend, and strangely compelling to observe, these fish will be a highlight of your aquarium if you are sensitive to their needs marinehabitat.co.uk REGULARS >> Expert Advice 7 Expert Panel In response to readers questions, our panel of experts discuss caring for goniopora and leather corals, battling bristle worms, and a minimal tank equipment setup. >> Setting Up A New Marine 27 Aquarium Part 6 Nick Bryan Nick s extensive series continues, and this time round he looks at some of the testing required in the earlier stages of a tank setup, which are fundamental to the success of every aquarium. >> Biology Class (Lateral Line) 44 Tom Hird Did you realise that fish and the London Underground have something in common? In this issue s Biology Class, Tom The Blowfish Hird explains why. >> Docile Damselfishes Chromis 64 Scott Michael Scott focuses on one group of Damselfish that tend to break all the damsel aggression stereotypes the Chromis. >> Picture Perfect 46 Reef Face Forum Check out some of the best hobbyist photos, brought to you by Reef-Face forum. >> Hobbyist Profile 59 John McFarlane Could a little nano like this suit a corner of your home? In this issue, John McFarlane steps up to show us that size isn t everything, and that downsizing tanks can be an enjoyable experience. >> News Round-up 49 Dylan Taylor Get up to date with marine-related news from around the world. FEATURES >> Lighting the Aquarium 16 Bob Goemans Bob help readers understand some of the more important lighting terminology and provides valuable information on lamp types and costs. REVIEWS >> Local Fish Shop 33 Dylan Taylor Dylan is touring local fish shops in the UK. Check out Creature Comforts & Aquatic Centre, Romsey World of Water, and Reefdreams, which also features a money-off voucher. >> Gear Guide 39 As always, the Gear Guide provides insight into a variety of products for the hobby. There are vast ranges of gear available, but here you will find a selection of the best stuff. 69 >> Coral Reef Laboratory Tour Dylan Taylor Dylan details his tour of a facility in Southampton, which is of international importance in marine scientific research. ISSUE 20 COMPETITION WINNERS TMC COMPETITION WINNERS MAIN PRIZE WINNER: Arran Lowes (Darlington); RUNNERS-UP: Tom Walley (Chester); Thomas Parsons (Birmingham); Ann Moore (High Wycombe); Shirley Dale (Cheshire); Dave Supple (Swansea) NT LABS WORDSEARCH WINNERS Daniel Guggenheim (Belfast); Maisie Greenaway (Camberley); Leslie Gravenell (Derby); Sue Watson (Cornwall); Tim Tweats (Staffordshire); Anita Boulton (Devon); Reg Seaman (Essex); Zoe Clark (Darlington); Kenneth Merrells (Swansea); Simone Butterworth (Surrey). Marine Habitat 5

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7 EXPERT ADVICE Welcome to Expert Advice in each issue we invite a panel of the industry s best experts to answer your troubling questions, and give IN THIS ISSUE you sound advice on how to tackle them Bob answers a stinging question on how to get rid of those pesky bristle worms. Shane explains that keeping goniopora isn t as hard as it used to be now that we understand its feed requirements. Tom looks at the puzzling mystery of disintegrating leather corals. Paul gives advice to a returning reefkeeper who has come back to find a whole host of new technology but is it really needed? A BIT ABOUT BOB Bob Goemans has been a hobbyist for over 60 years, with at least 40 of these in the marine hobby, and has collected specimens from the South China Sea to the Caribbean. He is a retired environmental contracting manager, a public speaker, author, consultant, and has written for many magazines, both here and in the US. A BIT ABOUT SHANE Shane has had a keen interest in aquariums since the age of 11. And now, a few decades later, he still enjoys the hobby as much as he did. He started marine back in the days when under-gravel filters were commonplace and corals were rarely seen. He loves sharing his experiences and knowledge on marine fishkeeping. A BIT ABOUT TOM Tom The Blowfish Hird is a marine biologist, animal handler, and TV wildlife expert. He has worked in some of the country s best aquariums, as well as directly in the aquatics industry that s when he s not attacking celebrities with spiders, snakes, or sharks! A BIT ABOUT PAUL Paul Tyson is a moderator on the marine hobbyist forum, The Salty Box. The Salty Box is the UK s only non-sponsored marine forum with friendly help and advice from experienced reefers. Paul has over 17 years of marine experience in public aquaria, and currently works as curator of Live Exhibits at the World Museum in Liverpool. GOT A QUESTION? Our expert panel can help solve any queries you may have, so send in your questions to: Fish Junkies Ltd., Alison Business Centre, 40 Alison Crescent, Sheffield S2 1AS, or alternatively enquiries@fishjunkies.co.uk Marine Habitat 7

8 Dear Bob, I have a BioCube 29 which, for some reason, has a rather large population of what I believe to be bristle worms (they are flat with red bodies and what looks like spines down the sides). I was told that a six-line wrasse would take care of them, but apparently the one I got does not like them. I was then told to get an arrow crab, which did get a few but has now stopped hunting them. I have taken out all my live rock, which took a couple of hours to accomplish, but it got a lot of them out of the rocks, including some really large ones. When I lifted the rock out, there were big clumps of them underneath! I m now back to square one, as I still have lots more. I generally see them in droves when I feed my fish and shrimp. Is there anything I can do, short of taking out my live rock again and turning it into dead rock by basting it in the sunshine and then sifting all my sand? Thanks for your time, Brian Savannah, Georgia. Hi Brian, Thanks for your question. Yes, there is no doubt they are Bristle Worms (Eurythoe complanata), which are quite common in almost all marine aquariums. The only difference is their numbers, as they can become quite numerous in aquariums that are overfed. You are simply wasting your time and causing stress to the other aquarium inhabitants by trying to physically remove them as described. And yes, the species noted (crab and wrasse) do feed on this type of worms; however, they prefer other types of food, and therefore would rarely eat these worms, unless starving, and even then only the very smallest. As to the reason for there being so many, it is a supply problem. Supply the food they need and they will multiply (and rapidly!). It is that simple. Keeping in mind they are scavengers, and excellent ones at that, they feed on what is left over after feeding your fish and shrimp. They can actually sense the food when it enters the water, and that s their call to find the leftovers and consume it. Again, it is that simple. The more you overfeed, the more worms you will have. I suggest first reviewing the amount of food that goes into the aquarium and limiting it solely to those creatures you want to be fed. Any excess should be siphoned out. As worm food is reduced, so are worm numbers. Keep in mind that unless the worms become somewhat long (e.g. more than 12.5cm), they are not usually a threat to other animals, but simply very good scavengers. An overabundance of them, however, is problematic. To reduce their numbers, try this using 2.5cm PVC pipe, cut a short length of about 25cm. Drill some holes near each end, and then place a piece of defrosted shrimp flesh in the centre of the pipe. From each end, push in a small amount of something like Eheim Ehfifix media to just past the holes. This should have the media on either side of the central food, yet with some open space on each side of the food. This coarse plastic media makes it slightly difficult for the worm to make its way to the centre bait, but once there it will feed and grow fatter, and if you have used the right amount of plastic media, will find it extremely difficult to get out. Place it in the aquarium late evening and lift it out early the next morning. By pushing a rod through the pipe, any worms inside can be easily extracted. Keep repeating until the worm problem is reduced. One other point; do not touch the worms with your fingers. They have poisonous setae or hair-like spines along their sides, which are very brittle and can easily break off and cause a painful experience if you pick one up without gloves. If you do get stuck, use masking, duct, or clear Sellotape to blot the area. This should allow the bristles trapped in your skin to stick to the tape, hopefully removing most of them. Repeat as needed. Then dab the area with rubbing alcohol or vinegar, or try a mixture of one part household ammonia to ten parts water, or sprinkle a meat tenderiser on the area. This helps denature the toxin and provides a reduction in the burning sensation. When the area appears to be free of bristles and is dry, apply an over-the-counter antibiotic ointment. If there is lingering pain or swelling, consult a physician. Hope this helps, Bob. Don t forget to check out our website for regular updates, with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and extended magazine articles: 8 Marine Habitat

9 Dear Marine Habitat, Over the years, I ve kept various corals with reasonable success (soft, LPS and SPS). I struggle, however, with goniopora. Could you offer any advice on the most suitable type of food and how to feed it? Liz Walker, Southampton. Thanks for the question, Liz. I hope the answer below helps with your quest to keep goniopora! These animals can be difficult ones to keep in our aquariums due to their specific and demanding feeding requirements. That said, the developments in the food on offer now makes keeping them a reality. There are several things to look out for when selecting a goniopora. Firstly, make sure you don t buy a dyed specimen; these are typically brightly coloured, which attracts keepers. The other thing to look for when choosing a specimen is that it has good, full polyp extension. An easier one to keep is a Red Gonoipora as a general rule, the yellows are more difficult. Another option is to keep an alveopora. These are much less demanding and have 12 petals/tentacles, as opposed to the 24 of the goniopora. These animals take live and frozen baby brine shrimp, rotifers and oyster eggs, as well as any other small, meaty foods. Just putting these in the water column tends not to be enough for them instead, it is best to target feed these corals. A good way to do this is by feeding Just putting these in the water column tends not to be enough for them instead, it is best to targetfeed these corals. under a dome, or whilst covered. This ensures that the food gets to the goniopora and is not stolen by fish or other invertebrates. An example of this involves using a clean drinks bottle, which is cut in half. Turn off powerheads and cover the specimen with the bottle. (I find it best to use the lid end for this.) This delivers the food through the lid hole onto the animal. Leave it in position whilst the animal feeds. (This can be noted by the polyps closing around the food.) Once fed, remove the cover and turn all the powerheads back on. Feeding the animal in this way will increase its growth and assist in keeping it long term. If the animal is larger than the diameter of a bottle, other plastic/food safe containers can be used. It is important to have a good space around the animal, as disturbing the polyps can cause it to close in defence, rendering it unready to take the food. I find that given time, and when it is feeding well, the cover will not be needed. A healthy specimen can be target-fed by the means of delivering the food over it, which can be Maurizio Biso Dreamstime.com done by employing a turkey baster. Food is sucked into the baster and then released slowly over the animal be careful with any shrimps in your aquarium, as these can damage the coral tissue if they swarm to get the food whilst the goniopora is being fed. For a dry food alternative, First Bite SPS coral food is also worth looking at for goniopora. They seem to prefer a small particle size as this contains water-soluble attractants that have been removed from saltwater copepods, which send food signals into the water column, mimicking prey. The food is designed to get an instant response from SPS corals when introduced to the aquarium. With a small particle size of 2-20 micron, the food will suspend in the water column and give the animal time to capture the food. Although the goniopora is often classed as an LPS, most varieties behave more like an SPS, so this kind of food could help you out if you are struggling to get a feeding response. Just make sure you feed using the methods described above. Another thing that is good to have is a deep sand bed and/or refugium. Try using live phytoplankton to increase the population of live food within the aquarium. These critters, in turn, produce larvae that feed the corals. Shane Mitchell, BCUK. BCUK are manufacturers and suppliers of the finest quality aquarium diets for hobbyists, hatcheries and public aquariums. For further details please visit Marine Habitat 9

10 I have a large reef setup with growing corals and thriving fish, which overall appears to be healthy, but I have a recurring problem with my large soft leathers. Every now and then (and this has happened three times), one of them completely disintegrates almost overnight. Up to this point, it has been growing fast and has reached what would be considered a large size, which, of course, makes the disintegration even more upsetting. Can you offer any advice? Stuart Longhorn, Essex. Dear Stuart, Sorry to hear you re having problems with your leather corals. Even though leathers are often considered easy or starter corals, it does not make them a sure-fire success. I shall do what I can to help, but you really need to do the first part yourself. There are many questions I would normally need to ask before suggesting anything concrete on this issue. Prior to going ahead with any more corals or leathers (etc.), ensure that your tank really is at optimal conditions. Don t go to a LFS for testing; purchase some decent test kits and start to keep a log of all the parameters. Everything including the salinity to the magnesium levels needs to be noted down and checked against industry standards. That alone might find your answer. For example, leather corals love iodine and can quickly strip a tank of this element. This isn t likely to lead to the corals instant demise, but anything holding back life in your tank will be a factor you need to remove. Large leathers are like a game of Jenga. They are more exciting the bigger they get, but make one mistake and the whole thing tumbles down. As the animal grows, the demand from its cells increases. Lack of nutrients or chemicals can cause cells to die within the centre of the animal. The ammonia created from the die-back can kill more cells; this then starts a chain reaction where more and more cells meet their doom. Before your eyes, your leather coral can vanish overnight. Assuming that all the parameters in the tank are optimal, there may be some more random reasons for your problems. Personally, I have found that you simply cannot give a leather coral too much flow. They love it! The strong, turbulent current brings them food and oxygenated water while flushing away waste particles and chemical pollutants. Fragging is fairly simple. The toadstool below was from a result of pulling the mother colony away from a rock. The resulting sliver of coral eventually turned into this. I have seen waste building up on the open leaves of leathers in sluggish flow, which then causes local tissue damage. Should this go unnoticed and the cells of the leather start to die, you will very quickly see the whole animal turn into mush. Check the total tank turnover rate and try pointing a powerhead right at your leathers. Are you feeding the leather corals? Although they are photosynthetic, an additional diet of decent particulate food will help any large leather maintain its size and stay healthy. What about fragging? This could be a good option for you. When the leather coral reaches a good size, some well-trimmed frags will help to keep this chunky coral under control, and stop its metabolic demand outpacing the tank s normal running conditions. Lastly, and this is a bit of a copout, every tank is different and has different strengths and weaknesses. In order to help localise the problem, maybe consider giving the leathers a miss for a while and try something else instead, while aiming to maintain optimal water conditions. Tom. Finger Leather Coral. Derek Keats Wikimedia Commons Don t forget to check out our website for regular updates, with the latest news, mini articles, interesting video links and extended magazine articles: 10 Marine Habitat

11 Hi Salty Box, I am a veteran of marine reef systems. While in the late- 70s and 80s everything was air-driven, I look at a fully-loaded reef system today and the mind boggles! With all the filter socks, reactors for this, dosers for that, programming setups, etc., I wonder if it is totally necessary. Nowadays, which equipment can you get away with for a reasonable mixed reef system of approx. 300gal? Pete Page, Benfleet. Hi Pete, You re right, the mind does boggle! There is an amazing array of equipment out there these days, but is it all necessary? Well no, not all of it. Many public aquariums still use the air-driven, under-gravel filters in their fish-only systems, but if you want a nice mixed reef with hard corals, then some equipment is necessary. Given the scope of this article I can t go into each element in detail, but hopefully I will be able to provide a start point for further research. In terms of filtration, I like to keep it simple. SPS corals generally do better in lownutrient systems (low levels of nitrate and phosphate); with the high lighting required, if you don`t have low nutrients you will forever be cleaning algae off the glass. So, for me, the best and easiest method is a deep sand bed and algae refugium a place to grow and crop algae. These two elements go a long way to removing the nitrate and phosphate in a system. I would also add a protein skimmer. A good skimmer removes much of the fish waste at source. Many people now run great reef tanks without one, but a skimmer AFM Marine have a great range of protein skimmers to suit many tank sizes. Metal Halides are slowly becoming a thing of the past. Energy saving LED s offer exceptional light with added versatility and neat features. Shown here are Maxpect Razor LED light units. If you wish to keep hard corals, they will need both calcium and carbonate in the water in order to build up their skeletons allows for higher levels of fish stock. You mentioned reactors. One of the most common things to use a reactor for is phosphate-removing media. There are many types, but depending on your stock levels it may be necessary to add some additional phosphate removal. I would suggest stocking low then seeing how it goes before committing to this though. If you wish to keep hard corals, they will need both calcium and carbonate in the water in order to build up their skeletons. This is a very complex area of water chemistry, but in simple terms, you will need some way of maintaining calcium, alkalinity (a term used to describe levels of carbonates in the water), and magnesium levels. These are collectively referred to as mineral levels. To maintain mineral levels, two main methods are used; either a doser, which doses levels of mineral containing solutions in the correct ratios, or a calcium reactor, which uses carbon dioxide to dissolve coral skeletons in a chamber to release the calcium and carbonates they contain. The choice between the two is tricky, and both have pros and cons, so this will require some research. It is in inevitable though, if you wish to keep significant numbers of hard corals, that you will need to replace the minerals they use. Stick to soft corals and you can do without this equipment. There are two finals areas where equipment is needed: flow and lighting. Coral needs good water flow. As they cannot move, they rely on water to bring their food, take away their waste and bring oxygen. A couple of good powerheads will do the trick for this. You can go very fancy with lots of programmable options, but it s not always necessary (and is perhaps something to upgrade to as you become more experienced). Lastly: lighting. Coral needs lots of light and there are many different options from expensive LED setups, to halides, to fluorescent tubes. Again, the choice and options are too great to cover in this article, but you will need a good light source. SUMMARY I would consider the following to be the minimum equipment needed. lighting powerheads protein skimmer calcium reactor or doser, and, depending on stocking levels, a phosphate reactor Get that lot set up right and you will be well on your way. Once you get the bug, you will no doubt want as many gizmos and gadgets as you can get! Paul Tyson. The Salty Box marine forum is the largest non-sponsored marine forum in the UK. It offers friendly, impartial and helpful advice no matter what your experience in the hobby. Join the 8,000+ members on the UK s friendliest marine reefkeeping forum today! Visit us at Marine Habitat 11

12 Maintenance Checklist > Marine Habitat NEWBIE CHECKLIST New to the hobby? Wondering how you should go about maintaining your tank once it s set up? Well take a look at our checklist to help you get started. The maintenance aspects of a marine aquarium can seem a little daunting to newcomers; there are many areas to consider and the potential cost of getting it wrong, so we thought we d draw up a very simple checklist of things to keep an eye on. We cannot provide in-depth details for each point, but if you take some time to check each of these areas regularly, then you ll be off to a great start. Articles concerning many of these points will be covered, or have been covered in the magazine. Along with each aspect of consideration, we ve given a very rough guideline to the frequency with which you may want to perform this check. Please note that every system is different and so this is not prescriptive for every hobbyist and their tank. It s a guideline only. Also note, the frequency for a number of these points is very likely to increase significantly for brand new systems. VISUAL OBSERVATIONS Fish (daily) Any visible parasites? Are they active? Any change in colour? Are they eating? Corals (daily) Are they open? Any change in colour? Substrate (daily) Any obvious debris? Water (daily) Is it cloudy? Any flow restrictions? PARAMETERS TO CHECK Temperature (constantly if possible/daily) Current reading? Is digital thermometer in line with glass/lcd thermometer? Salinity (constantly if possible/weekly) Current reading? Is refractometer ready for calibration? ph (constantly if possible/weekly) Current reading? Previous fluctuations (can they be explained?). Calcium, alkalinity, nitrate, phosphate (bi-weekly) Current reading? Check any monitoring systems for previous fluctuations. PHYSICAL MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING Top up (daily) Has evaporation taken place? Water change (weekly) Is everything healthy and thriving? Clean glass (daily) Is there any algae build-up on the glass? Change filters/bulbs (monthly) Have filters been cleaned/changed recently? Are bulbs working effectively? Empty skimmer (as required/weekly) Does skimmer cup need emptying? Clean salt creep (monthly) Has water splashed out of the tank and left salt that needs cleaning? Macroalgae pruning (weekly) Do you need to prune your macroalgae? (Encourages new growth). we don t keep fish, we keep water QUOTE FROM DR NICK BRYAN SUMMARY If you have a question and would like to get an expert response, why don t you consider sending your question in to us and we ll look at including it in the Expert Advice section of a future magazine. 12 Marine Habitat

13 THE ULTIMATE REEF SALT with perfect magnesium balance PRO FORMULA A NATURAL SALT HARVESTED FROM THE REEF NATURAL REEF SALT An enhanced, natural salt harvested from one of the richest coral seas on our planet. PERFECT CHEMISTRY Developed with optimal levels for healthy growth of corals, marine invertebrates & fish. GUARANTEED PARAMETERS Every bucket contains all the major, minor & trace elements found in nature with each batch laboratory tested and guaranteed. BALANCED FORMULA Calcium, magnesium & alkalinity levels are chemically & biologically in balance. MORE SALTWATER/KG SALT With less water bound to each grain at a molecular level, our low hydration formula, in its double sealed bucket, produces more saltwater per kilo of dry salt. CAN BE USED IMMEDIATELY The finely ground and homogeneous blend is fast dissolving and can be used immediately. Parameters Level Range ph dkh Calcium 440 mg/l Magnesium 1340 mg/l Chloride mg/l Potassium 410 mg/l Iodine 0.06 mg/l *Parameters are measured at 35.5 ppt salinity w w w.t h e a q u a ri u m s o l u t i o n.com

14 DID YOU KNOW? 14 Marine Habitat

15 Richard Carey Dreamstime.com Sea Sponges are amongst the simplest multi-cellular animals in existence, and there are in excess of 5000 known species. They exist in a vast range of colours, shapes and sizes, in oceans worldwide from the poles to the tropics, and are also frequently found in captive reef aquariums. They are often mistaken for a coral or plant, but are quite different in reality. Did you know, they don t have a brain or any kind of nervous system, they don t have a heart or any kind of circulatory system, and they don t even have a digestive system, or not as humans would understand that to be. They feed by allowing water to flow through their bodies filtering out tiny particles of food and oxygen along the way, which pass through the thousands of pores on the surface of their structure. Once established, their structure is maintained by the rock on which they have grown. Should they get damaged or partially eaten, which is very common given that they are preyed upon by many other animals including fish, crustaceans and Sea Turtles, they have an incredible ability to regenerate. Even if a small piece drifts off into the ocean, it will eventually settle, attach itself to a new rock and regrow. DAVE PITT Marine Habitat 15

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17 Aquarium Lighting the Lighting is one of the most important, and most expensive, elements of an aquarium, and with so many options available, it s worth getting an understanding of the basics. BOB GOEMANS Age: 75 Hometown: Tucson, Arizona (USA), and Bahia de Kino (Mexico) Full-time occupation: Marine aquarium consultant, public speaker, and writer/author Marine experience: 40 years Aquarium size: Due to travelling requirements, I maintain two 30-gallon nano systems, one at each home, and also continue to consult and help maintain many client systems Favourite fish: Enchelycore pardalis (Dragon Moray) coral: Acropora youngei (Bali Green Stony Coral) other: Basically all inverts Specialist areas: Providing an educational marine aquarium website at Examples of photosynthetic soft corals include mushrooms, zoanthids, leathers, and xenia. Olgavolodina Dreamstime.com Marine Habitat 17

18 Lighting the Aquarium > Bob Goemans With the arrival of Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs), lighting one s aquarium has taken a new direction over the past few years. Nevertheless, there remain other forms of lamps that are well suited for the task. The decisions that need to be taken prior to purchasing a light fixture are of extreme importance, as lighting equipment will be one of the biggest expenditures when setting up a new aquarium or upgrading an existing fixture. An understanding of some of the more important lighting terminology is probably the best place to begin. Once that s accomplished, an informed decision can be made as to which type of lamp/ fixture is best suited for your goal. TERMINOLOGY Spectrum The light that illuminates the objects we see in our everyday life is made up of various wavelengths, or colours of light. These start at 400 nanometres (nm), where blue wavelengths exist, then change to green at about 475nm, and then yellow at about 580nm, with red coming into play at about 625nm, and continuing through to 700nm. This portion of all the energy coming from the sun is known as the visible spectrum. In fact, when you see a rainbow, you re looking at all the colours that compose the visible spectrum. Below the 400nm range, the spectrum contains the cosmic, gamma, x-rays and ultraviolet wavelengths, all of which are invisible to our eye. The same is true for those spectrums above the 700nm range, which consist of infrared wavelengths. Kelvin Lamps can be produced for different purposes by using certain materials which, when heated to specific temperatures (measured in Kelvins), radiate the desired colours/wavelengths. For example, should a lamp be required to illuminate parking lots, it will produce huge amounts of green and yellow light, the brightest portions of the visible spectrum. Said lamps, however, would provide no value for reef aquariums because those wavelengths have no value for photosynthetic invertebrates. Instead, it s only the blue and red wavelengths, the darkest portions of the visible spectrum, that trigger photosynthesis. Lamps emitting a colour temperature of 5500K are not beneficial for reef aquariums, as they are too low in the blue wavelength. Kelvin range lamps of 10,000 to 20,000K, for example, are more useful because their blue content is far more pronounced, with 14K to 16K (the zeros are often dropped when discussing Kelvin ratings) appearing to be the most popular for lighting one s reef aquarium. In fact, I now use 16K on my reef system. 18 Marine Habitat

19 Lighting the Aquarium > Bob Goemans WATTS This is basically how much electrical power a lamp needs to generate the wavelengths it was designed to produce. Some lamps are more efficient than others; a typical fluorescent tube, for instance, is about four times brighter than the same wattage incandescent lamp, and a metal halide lamp is twice as bright as the same wattage fluorescent lamp. LED lamps are not only far more efficient than all other types of lamps, their useful lifespan is far greater since they generate much less heat. In the past, recommendations were given as to how many watts per gallon were needed to sustain a certain type of aquarium environment; e.g. 3-4 watts per gallon for average reef aquariums, and 4-8 watts for more complex systems that contained a wide variety of stony corals. Of course, this failed to take into consideration which PAR and PUR levels were being generated and the depths they encompassed. In addition, with many LED systems generating adequate PAR and PUR levels with only one-third of the amount of electricity (watts) used by other types of lamps, watts per gallon recommendations now no longer suffice for these type of lamps. par AND pur The difference between Photosynthetically Active Radiation and Photo Usable Radiation is that the former relates to overall intensity, and the latter measures only the intensity of the wavelengths that stimulate photosynthesis: nm (blue) and nm (red). Keep in mind that the blue spectrum is of more value for our coral animals, as it penetrates ocean waters far deeper than the red wavelengths. In fact, red is generally filtered out after 15ft of depth and most unwanted plant life/algae is found in the shallows, as the red spectrum is its main need. I bring these two terms to your attention under this single heading because lamps that are high in PAR levels may not suffice for photosynthetic animals if lacking adequate wavelengths in the PUR range. The 5500K metal halide would be a good example of this. As a consequence, no matter which type of lamp your desired fixture is fitted with, before purchasing it, always view its Spectral Power Distribution Chart (sometimes called a spectral graph) which shows the entire range of visible spectrum produced by its lamp(s). All quality brand lamp/fixture manufacturers supply this chart, or will when you see a rainbow, you re looking at all the colours that compose the visible spectrum gladly do so should you ask for it. Let me thank the Maxspect International Company (BCUK Aquatics Ltd.) for providing the spectrographs used here, as they can help depict the parameters to look for when purchasing a light fixture. One further thought on lighting for reef aquariums: whatever the wattage rating of the fixture, it s best if energy is used mostly to produce the blue wavelengths, with red wavelengths composing no more than one-fifth the volume of the blue wavelengths, and with little energy spent on yellow and green wavelengths. MOONLIGHT Night-time viewing has become quite popular over the past few decades. In the 80s and 90s, actinic fluorescent lamps were utilised to light the aquarium during nighttime hours, with LED lamps gaining a foothold in the early- 2000s. These lamps supplied a spectrum very close to natural moonlight (i.e. 480nm), and this adaption generally became known as moonlighting. One thing to keep in mind about the moonlight timeframe is that it should not, in my opinion, be used every day of the month. The actual lunar cycle is 15 days of moonlight and 15 days of darkness. So to replicate that moonlight in your aquarium, it should only be operational for half of the month. SuNRISE/SuNSET To prevent light shock to the animals during this so-called time frame, lamps mainly generating the blue spectrum were often timed to come on about an hour before the main system lights. This timing was called sunrise lighting. Occasionally lights were kept illuminated during the main lighting time The R420R Nano LED Maxspect s 8000K chart depicts a fixture rendering a visible spectrum ideal for freshwater aquariums, as its energy (wattage) is being used to render vast amounts of all the visible spectrums. Its high amounts of the brightest portions of the visible spectrum (green and yellow) provide excellent viewing, and the darkest portions of the spectrum (blue and red) are in somewhat equal amounts. courtesy of Maxspect As to their 10,000K chart, notice that these lamps are producing far less green, yellow and red wavelengths, as their peaks are only a third as high as in the 8000K fixture. This overall colour temperature is well suited for most marine fishonly and less complex reef aquariums. courtesy of Maxspect When viewing their 16000K chart, almost all of this fixture s energy is going to producing the blue wavelengths, as the remaining wavelengths from 500 to 700nm are almost flatlined. The colour temperature of this fixture will therefore be quite blue to the human eye, yet ideal for photosynthetic coral animals, and well suited for the more complex reef systems. courtesy of Maxspect One further chart you might find helpful is what I call par Spread. This depicts what par is present at each depth and width in the aquarium. Really valuable when placing more light loving corals, such as some Montipora spp. courtesy of Maxspect Marine Habitat 19

20 Lighting the Aquarium > Bob Goemans A large reef aquarium at one of the past MAcNA s, having excellent spectrum and lit solely with LEDs. frames to add additional blue spectrum to the overall aquarium. On occasions when they weren t, they would instead be turned on about an hour prior to the main lighting shutting down, so as to prevent it causing light shock to the animals. This was known as the sunset portion of the lighting schedule. When they stayed on, as noted above, it became the moonlight portion of the overall daily lighting schedule and generally went off very early the following morning, prior to daybreak. cost Price is another issue to consider, with fluorescent lamps costing less than metal halide lamps. Unfortunately, both types of lamps generally need to be replaced yearly. A quality brand fixture of LED lighting, in contrast, may last 10 years or more before needing to be replaced. Admittedly, LED systems are currently more expensive than other forms of lighting, but their prices are coming down, and their lamp lifespans are far greater than those of other lamps. In fact, they may only lose 5% of their intensity keep in mind that sudden increased intensity and/ or different spectral light can cause severe stress to the aquarium s existing coral animals, possibly killing them over years when used an average of 8 hours per day. Compare that to annual replacements of fluorescent and metal halide lamps! Add to this the fact that LED fixtures require far less electrical current to operate (about 85% less than metal halide and fluorescents), and it becomes clear that LED fixtures are far less expensive to own in the long run. Do the maths; I m sure you ll agree the payback over the coming years points to an investment in a quality-brand LED fixture. SuMMATION It is said that it s the aquarium s inhabitants which dictate which spectrum/ type lamp should be used. For example, if the desire was for a freshwater-planted aquarium, K fluorescents would neatly suffice. Should the desire be a marine fish-only system, 10K fluorescents would be perfectly acceptable. If the desire was to have an aquarium containing mostly soft corals, the Kelvin range of the lamps chosen could be anywhere from 10K to 20K, with either metal halides or fluorescents capable of providing that spectrum. Having said this, a wide range of stony corals and metal halides would, in my opinion, be preferable in this Kelvin range because their lamps generate more focused and intense beams of light than fluorescents. Fluorescents spread their light out along the entire length of the tube. With the far technically improved LEDs on the market, however, my choice for systems of any kind would now be lamped with LEDs. Finally, if you re thinking of upgrading your present lighting system, keep in mind that sudden increased intensity and/or different spectral light can cause severe stress to the aquarium s existing coral animals, possibly killing them. To prevent this, initially, light from the new fixture should be reduced, with slight increases over the following weeks, until the aquarium is then lit for the desired hours. If there are any questions, contact me through Marine Habitat or directly at bob@saltcorner.com. You can also visit my website at saltcorner.com where you will find, free of charge, my 300,000-word book containing over 1,100 colourful photos about marine aquarium husbandry. BG 20 Marine Habitat

21 YOUR ULTIMATE SPECIES GUIDE This factual and convenient guide features a number of species in each issue. Each species is treated to a full-page profile including facts and photos. JOHN CLIPPERTON Age: 38 Hometown: Chester, UK Full-time occupation: Office worker, photographer Marine experience: 10yrs Aquarium size: 205 litres (45 imperial gallons) Favourite fish: Clipperton Angelfish coral: Can t choose just one... sorry! other: Peacock Mantis Shrimp Specialist areas: Aquarium photography, species identification, and runs Digital Reefs website W st y c ec i THIS TIME... Lyretail Anthias Yellow Finger Gorgoniann Blood Shrimp START YOUR COLLECTION NOW! tod? Scan with your phone CUT OUT Photocopy

22 COMMON NAME/S: Lyretail Anthias/Coralfish/Wreckfish, Sea Goldie, Sea Perch SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Pseudanthias squamipinnis ORDER: Perciformes FAMILY: Serranidae SUBFAMILY: Anthiinae GENUS: Pseudanthias RANGE: Indo-West Pacific Pseudanthias squamipinnis Written by John Clipperton NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Widespread in the Indo-West Pacific and Red Sea, Lyretail Anthias form mesmerising large aggregations (sometimes in the thousands) as they feed on a range of floating zooplankton above coral pinnacles, outcrops, patch reefs and steep slopes. Frequenting clear coralrich waters at depths of up to 40m, this species also displays a complex and interesting social hierarchy and courtship behaviour. Like other anthias, P.squamipinnis is a protogynous hermaphrodite, an arrangement in which a dominant male controls a harem of several females. When the male dies, the largest female undergoes sex reversal and takes the place of the missing male. In this species, as well as growing larger, the dominant male takes on an overall purple colouration, with impressive pattern detail on the body and fins. CAPTIVE CARE: This species demands very clean and well-oxygenated water in captivity. It also appreciates heavy turbulence. Although regarded as the hardiest of all anthias species and the best prospect for first-time anthias keepers, it is still a challenge to maintain for long periods in captivity. Regular feeds of small meaty, high-protein foods are required, especially when the fish is newly introduced, and these morsels will be plucked from the water column. Once established, dried foods may even be accepted and the frequency of feedings can then be reduced to two or three times per day (or enough to ensure the fish retains condition). The addition of a refugium, particularly an over-tank design, may also prove beneficial in that a supply of natural plankton will enter the display. Although keeping a single specimen or a pair is possible, a trio of different-sized fish often gives the best chance of success because the size difference allows a natural hierarchy to develop without major conflict. Larger groups are also fine, but generally there should only be one male in the confines of even very large aquaria. For a trio, a display tank of at least 100 UK gallons is recommended. Other peaceful and active fish species can be included, but take note that small timid species may be intimidated by the sometimes frenetic activity of these fish. As well as providing ample space, ensure the reef structure offers plenty of cover in the form of caves and crevices. Readily available, this species has been spawned in private aquaria, but the eggs are tiny and fry are hard to raise. Don t forget, all our species profiles and more are available to download from our website

23 COMMON NAME/S: Red/ Yellow Finger/Tree Gorgonian, Sea Rod SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Diodogorgia nodulifera PHYLUM: Cnidaria CLASS: Anthozoa ORDER: Alcyonacea FAMILY: Anthothelidae GENUS: Diodogorgia RANGE: Tropical Western Atlantic Diodogorgia nodulifera Written by John Clipperton NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Occurring from southern Florida through the Caribbean and the Bahamas and down to Columbia, this non-photosynthetic species forms small sparsely branched colonies under ledges, on cave walls and in other shady areas in waters usually deeper than 25m and up to 160m (82ft and up to 525ft). Here these colourful gorgonians grow attached to hard substrates in moderate to strong currents, and capture planktonic organisms from the water column with their large polyps. With two distinct colour variations, the Red form exhibits deep red/purple tissue interspersed with darker red calyces and white polyps, while the Yellow form has bright yellow/orange tissue with red calyces and white polyps. CAPTIVE CARE: Although the large polyps may initially suggest that it is easy to feed, take note that this is a species that is best reserved for expert reef aquarists with established reef systems only. Requiring clean, stable water conditions and proper handling, multiple daily feedings of plankton and other foods designed especially for filter-feeders are also critical. As the species is not photosynthetic, it depends on regular prey capture for its survival, with live baby brine shrimp, rotifers or other foods designed for filter-feeding corals and invertebrates providing the best option in captivity. Phytoplankton, although not thought to form a major component of this species natural diet, should encourage a healthy population of microfauna in a system and is certainly worth considering. Flow is also important, with a laminar current of around 8cm (3ins) per second across the colony known to allow effective prey capture and ingestion. Suitable flow should also reduce the likelihood of algal invasion, particularly if coupled with a low-light location for the specimen. The addition of a refugium, particularly an overtank design, may also prove beneficial in that a supply of natural plankton will enter the display and serve as a constant food source. All in all, this species is much more likely to thrive if kept in a specially designed system rather than in a generalised mixed display. Typically it takes several months for a specimen to disintegrate due to starvation, so an aquarist may be easily mistaken in initially thinking the colony is doing well when it really isn t. Be aware that certain fish species (dwarf angels, butterflies, etc.) and certain invertebrates (shrimps and crabs) may also irritate a colony and interfere with feeding. This soft coral is also rumoured to fare better at lower temperatures, ranging from C (64.4 C-75.2 F). Don t forget, all our species profiles and more are available to download from our website

24 NEW EXPANDED MARINE SECTION Great Corals, Great Prices! The Aquarium 80 Marine Fish Tanks 1200L SPS System 1500L LPS System 1000L Frag System 3 Weekly Livestock Deliveries Onsite cafe, childrens petting farm and play Farm 0% interest free credit on all dry goods & Aquariums over Cockfields Farm, Lees Road, Ashton Under Lyne OL68AR Tel:

25 50:05 COMMON NAME/S: Blood/Fire Shrimp SCIENTIFIC NAME/S: Lysmata debelius PHYLUM: Arthropoda CLASS: Malacostraca FAMILY: Hippolytidae GENUS: Lysmata RANGE: Indo-Pacific Lysmata debelius Written by John Clipperton NATURAL ENVIRONMENT: Hailing from tropical Pacific waters, the Blood Shrimp inhabits shaded areas of coral reef habitats such as caves and overhangs, and normally resides in waters deeper than 20m (66ft). At such depths, due to the way seawater filters out red light, the shrimps dark red colouration becomes practically invisible and thus helps them to remain inconspicuous. With adults generally living as mated pairs that have a strong bond, the individuals of which are even thought to be able to recognise each other, they can be territorial and will defend their patch on the reef from other species. As simultaneous hermaphrodites (functioning as male and female at the same time), any two shrimp can breed and the resulting mass of 500 to 3,500 tiny green eggs is held under the abdomen. After 10 to 20 days the eggs are released, usually under cover of darkness, and enter a free-floating phase of development. A fairly recently described species named L. splendida is almost identical to L. debelius, but has more white spots on the body and some on the abdomen. It is endemic to Ari Atoll in the Maldives. CAPTIVE CARE: Like most invertebrates, Blood Shrimp do not tolerate copper, ammonia, nitrite, or elevated nitrate levels. They also require full-strength seawater (salinity of 33 to 37ppt) and do not cope with sudden shifts in water parameters. As such, newly acquired specimens should be drip-acclimated, generally for over an hour. Otherwise, normal reef parameters suit this species. Unlike the Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp (L. amboinensis), the Blood Shrimp is very reclusive and generally nocturnal, and requires at least one shaded area where it can shelter. During the moulting period when the shrimp sheds its exoskeleton to allow for growth, such hiding places are even more important. Activity usually increases during darkness or when food is added to the display. As they are potentially quite territorial as shrimp go, it is recommended to keep this shrimp singly or as a mated pair. Holding a newly introduced pair in a floating container separated from each other by a transparent barrier for a couple of weeks can help to establish or repair a bond. Although a cleaner shrimp, this species may not engage in this behaviour in captivity. Even though eggs may be repeatedly carried, larvae are not likely to survive in a typical home system. They have been raised in captivity though, and detailed accounts exist online for achieving this. Usually slightly more expensive than L. amboinensis, this species is readily available from most marine livestock retailers. Don t forget, all our species profiles and more are available to download from our website _Species_MH021.indd 5 31/03/ :00:58

26 Complete and balanced daily diet for Marine Herbivores Hikari Seaweed Extreme offers desirable growth and form as well as maintaining excellent colouration. Available in both wafer and pellet formats Hikari Seaweed Extreme contains 67% natural seaweed. The highly aromatic wafers and pellets soften quickly in the water and take on a texture similar to wet Nori Algae, making them highly attractive and easy to eat. Seaweed Extreme Wafers are ideal for those types of fish that like to graze their food such as blennies and gobies. Shrimps and other seaweed eating inverts will also latch on to them and graze. Seaweed Extreme Pellets will be eaten whole by species such as tangs and clownfish. As well as feeding to marine herbivores Seaweed Extreme can also be fed as a supplementary diet to most omnivorous species including clownfish, damsels and butterflies. For marine fish that look like they ve just come off the reef

27 DR NICK BRYAN Age: 27 Hometown: Liverpool, UK Full-time occupation: Research; my primary interest is prediction of the immune response to implantable devices Marine experience: 12yrs Aquarium size: Sumped 3x2x18 (approx 300ltrs) Favourite fish: Addis Butterfly, Crosshatch Trigger, Yellow Tang, Ventralis Anthias, Epaulette Shark coral: Acanthophyllia, Trachyphyllia other: Harlequin Shrimp Specialist areas: Aquatic chemistry and molecular biology S E T T I N G U P A NEW AQUARIUM PART 6 TESTING FOR NEWBIES Nick s fascinating series continues, and this time he looks at some of the testing required in the earlier stages of a tank setup, which are fundamental to the success of every aquarium. Marine Habitat 27

28 Setting Up a New Aquarium > Dr Nick Bryan In the previous instalment of my end-toend guide to setting up your first marine aquarium, I discussed the addition of substrate, water, salt and rock, and I left you at the beginning of the aquarium s first stage of maturation. In the weeks since its introduction, the bacteria in the live rock will have begun to proliferate, resulting in a bustling civilisation that will keep the water pristine until the day your aquarium is full to the rafters with incredible marine fish and invertebrates. In this issue I will pick up where I left off, with a quick reminder of some live rock definitions, as the type of live rock you have chosen to seed your aquarium will very much dictate the testing regime throughout the system s initial few weeks. I will also discuss routine testing, which you will have to be prepared for as the aquarium progresses, and talk about how to resolve test results that may not have perfect outcomes. Before I commence, I would just like to say a quick word on data recording and note taking. Please make good notes of the test results, particularly during the early phases of your aquarium s life. Do not scribble down results on the back of your hand, scraps of paper, or the inside of the test kit box. Get a fish tank diary or start a tank spreadsheet and keep accurate records that can easily be referred to. It is so much easier to scroll through a spreadsheet to work out how much calcium your aquarium has used in the last week or evaluate how your cycle is progressing, than it is to try to interpret soggy bits of paper which the 100% humidity of your aquarium cabinet has reduced to a pile of inky mush! LIVE ROCK When choosing live rock, you will have the option of cured or uncured. When live rock is harvested from the reef, certain components of the ecosystem (from worms and crabs through to sponges, algae and microorganisms) die during the collection and transit. This process is referred to as die-off, and the resulting decay generates harmful substances, such as ammonia, which in the short term renders the aquarium unsafe for new additions. Die-off isn t all bad, however. The ammonia produced will feed the bacteria that call the live rock home, thus kickstarting a biochemical process called the nitrogen cycle. This is a series of events which results in toxic ammonia being broken down into harmless nitrogen gas, via nitrite and nitrate intermediates; the heartbeat of a successful reef aquarium. This process takes time, however, and will render your aquarium unsuitable for habitation for a few weeks. The plus side is that your patience will be rewarded 28 Marine Habitat Water testing need not be a chore. Put the kettle on, get the radio loud and spend 15 minutes of quality time getting to know your aquarium. Khunaspix Dreamstime.com the resulting decay generates harmful substances, such as ammonia, which in the short term renders the aquarium unsafe for new additions by an incredible and beautifully efficient filtration system that metabolises its own waste products, and is primed to deal with whatever the fishy inhabitants throw at it. This transition, in which the animals living on live rock die off and decay, thus supporting microbial proliferation and, ultimately, resulting in a piece of rock that is no longer toxic, is known as curing. If you do not want to wait, you can opt for ready-cured live rock. In this instance, a store will have cured the rock in vats; alternatively, you can pick it up from fellow aquarists tank breakdowns rock that has spent many months or years in a reef aquarium will inevitably have cured. Providing you treat this rock as any other livestock purchase, and acclimatise it correctly by matching the temperature and specific gravity to that of the system from which it was removed, there should be no expectation of die-off. This allows the reef to hit the ground running with much more rapid stocking. In this instance, the rock s filtration biology has been established elsewhere and leaving it fallow for too long may in fact be detrimental, resulting in a loss of vitality and diversity in the valuable microorganisms which rely on the waste products of living organisms for food. So, essentially, it is a trade-off between patience and cost. Cured live rock is more expensive than uncured (perhaps as much as twice the price), but allows more rapid stocking. Larger systems will often opt for uncured rock, as the financial saving over several hundred kilograms will

29 Setting Up a New Aquarium > Dr Nick Bryan Die-off is a consequence of more sensitive animals, such as these sponges, not surviving the collection and acclimatisation process. Asther Lau Choon Siew Dreamstime.com The bacterial microcosm on and in the rock is referred to as a biofilm. The population is not homogenous, containing various different bacterial families that synergise to ensure safe, clean water for the inhabitants. Dmitry Knorre Dreamstime.com be substantial, whereas smaller systems generally bite the bullet and go for cured. I am recapping the live rock story here to introduce the role of water testing in the new aquarium, as this should start from the day you add the new rock. AMMONIA, NITRITE AND NITRATE From day one you will be required to test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in order to keep an eye on how your aquarium s nitrogen cycle is progressing...yo as the rock cures. Even in the w instance of uncured live rock, it is important to perform these tests just to confirm that no die-off has occurred since adding the rock to the system, rendering the water unsafe for habitation. As you add the uncured live rock, you will record an increase in ammonia. Populations of aerobic bacteria will convert this to nitrite and, subsequently, to nitrate by a further family of aerobic bacteria living on and amongst the rock. These processes require oxygen, so they tend to occur on the surface or in shallower pores of rock. As live rock pores permeate deep into the structure, they become home to anerobic bacteria that break down nitrate to nitrogen gas in the absence of oxygen. With your test kits, you have the ability to view this process as it proceeds you can watch the nitrogen cycle unfold in front of your eyes. Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and as the cycle moves closer towards stocking D-day, you should see this trail of nitrogenous substances shift from left to right. Ammonia will initially be high after adding uncured rock, with nitrite and nitrate more difficult to detect at this...you can watch the nitrogen n cycle unfold in front of your eyes time. Over the next few weeks, however, you will begin to record nitrite and nitrate, which will eventually become parallel with a decrease in ammonia as the die-off process completes. Ammonia is the ratelimiting substance in this process the initiator that feeds the cycle and so, once this tails off, nitrite and nitrate will fall too. The process will terminate with a disappearance of ammonia and nitrite and, finally, a substantial reduction in or can possibly even a complete removal of nitrate. Expect this to take a minimum of a month, give or take a couple of weeks, depending on the amount of rock you add, its quality, and the system volume. You can help the process along by performing weekly water changes, just as you would if the tank were stocked. ADDING YOUR FIRST FISH The passing of these three nitrogenous molecules tells you that the filtration machinery of the system is capable of detoxifying organic waste. My recommendation would be to never stock in the presence of ammonia and nitrite, and to wait until the nitrates are below 5ppm before you add any fish. At this point, you can throttle back the daily testing; however, certainly with the first couple of additions, you should test for ammonia and nitrate every few days to ensure that the bacteria are working as predicted, and that there is no build-up of harmful ammonia which would have catastrophic consequences for the health of the new fish. If you have decided to use cured Marine Habitat 29

30 Setting Up a New Aquarium > Dr Nick Bryan live rock, or ideally some from a fellow aquarist s aquarium, you will be able to add a hardy fish or two relatively quickly. I would like to make clear that I am not advocating starting the aquarium s nitrogen cycle using fish; this is an old-fashioned method in which the ammonia from fish waste begins the cycle. The lag phase before ammonia decomposition begins results in the fish being exposed to potentially toxic amounts of this substance and should therefore be discouraged. Cured or established live rock, however, should have already cycled. Confirm this by testing ammonia for one week after adding it; if you do not measure any, add the first fish. Test daily. If the live rock is doing its job, you should not record any ammonia; the ammonia produced by the fish should immediately become food for the previously established aerobic bacteria. Throughout these teething stages though, keep a 25% water change ready just in case you need to step in during the crucial first weeks of bioloading. For the first week of stocking, test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate daily. You should see no ammonia or nitrite. A small Throughout ut these teething stages s though, keep a 25% water change ready just in case you need to step in during the crucial first weeks of bioloading amount of nitrate is nothing to worry about while you are finding your feet in the hobby, although as you advance you will no doubt discover favourite nitrate concentrations to keep your desired combinations of corals colourful and growing. For the time being, try not to let the nitrate concentration creep above 10ppm, as this is a good indication that the various elements of the nitrogen cycle are all working in synergy. No need to panic if it does though, just employ the watchful waiting strategy to begin with, and water changes if nitrate values begin to creep up. Once this first week has passed, test twice a week for the remainder of the first month, then monthly after that, until you are comfortable that the dissolved organic parameters are consistently unchanging. You may, however, find it useful to run these tests a couple of days after adding new fish whilst you are getting to know the system, to confirm that additional waste isn t overwhelming the aquarium s nitrogen cycling capacity. We stock gradually to give populations of detoxifying bacteria the chance to adapt to the additional bioload available as food when adding new fish. Stocking too fast would cause the process to lag at the ammonia phase, as the bacteria that break it into nitrite increase in number in response to the increase in available food. It is therefore important to stock slowly to allow the aquarium s microbiology to develop to deal with changes in available nutrients. PHOSPHATE I have spoken a lot about nitrogenous waste, but you also need to be familiar with your aquarium s phosphate concentration. Much like nitrogenous waste, phosphate is a product of decay and aquatic waste. It is also exported by bacteria, in addition to many commercially available phosphate removal media. You will need to test the phosphate concentrations and ensure they remain ideally unmeasurable. Excess phosphate feeds algae and cyanobacteria and negatively influences coral growth and colour. I would recommend the use of a phosphate remover from day one of an aquarium s life. We rarely get the opportunity to use a compound to safely and specifically remove something negative in reef aquaria, so this opportunity should be grabbed with both hands. ALGAE Before I move away from organics, a quick word on algae. Macroalgae such as this Caulerpa peltata are a fantastic addition to any sump, refugium or display tank. Algae locks up dissolved organics in tissue as they grow, which are then exported when the algae is manually removed. Nick Hobgood Wikimedia Commons 30 Marine Habitat

31 Setting Up a New Aquarium > Dr Nick Bryan Damselfish such as these Humbugs (Dascyllus aruanus) are often recommended as first fish. Whilst these fish are guaranteed to survive all but the harshest conditions, they get big and grumpy. Werner Kruse Dreamstime.com A number of dissolved organic molecules drop into the algal food chain too, particularly nitrate and phosphate. What this means is that excess dissolved organics lead to algae breakouts and more regular maintenance to remove these unsightly organisms. We can use this to our advantage though, by growing harvestable algae to deplete nutrients. Typically this refers to seaweeds or macroalgae, either used ornamentally in the display tank or tucked away in a lit sump compartment. The beauty of using macroalgae in this manner is that they literally lock problematic dissolved organics up in their tissues as they grow, allowing you to remove them in solid form by pulling out clumps of macroalage every couple of weeks. So that covers organic matter. What else do you need to test in the early stages of your aquarium s life? CARBONATE HARDNESS (KH) Carbonate hardness (kh) is a measure of your aquarium s buffering capacity the ability of the ecosystem to resist changes in ph. It is typically measured in a peculiar unit called degrees of carbonate hardness, or dkh. The carbonate hardness in an aquarium is an incredibly important parameter and something that it is vital Carbonate hardness (kh) is a measure of your aquarium s buffering capacity the ability of the ecosystem to resist changes in ph you learn to love in your aquarium s earliest stages. Whilst you are going through the initial stocking phases, this probably will not move around too much. Hard corals and coralline algae use it as one of the building blocks of their skeletons, so as these corals grow, you will see reductions in kh. As the tank ages, you will need to keep the kh stable. My recommendation would not be to let it move more than 0.5dKH per day. (More on that and how to correct it in a later instalment of this series.) In these early stages, test weekly and be aware of your aquarium s kh baseline. When you do begin to build up your coral collection, you will quickly recognise when the kh is being depleted and step in to adjust accordingly. The kh should be between 8 and 10dkH as with nitrate, as you progress you will undoubtedly develop a favourite kh value within this window that shows your aquarium at its best. In the early stages though, look for any stable value between 8 and 10dkH; stability is more important than a finite value at this stage. CALCIUM AND MAGNESIUM Along with kh, familiarise yourself with your system s calcium and magnesium baseline. Much like carbonate, these are building blocks of coral skeletons and will be consumed by corals as they grow, resulting in depletion. When levels of these elements become too low, corals struggle to pull enough of them from the water, so to enable them to grow, they need to be continuously replenished. In the early days of your tank, concentrations of these elements should not move at all, but it is important to recognise baseline levels so you can appreciate when they are being depleted by your soon-to-be-introduced corals. Test weekly to ensure you understand the balance of your aquarium inside out. CONCLUSION I will end on that note, hopefully having explained the most important tests to perform in the early days of your aquarium s existence, when to do them, and how to act if anything goes wrong during the teething stages. Next time, I will delve into aquarium maintenance and will explain how an hour a week will keep your aquarium gleaming! Enjoy your tanks. Nick. NB NEXT TIME This series is well underway now, with each previous issue bringing us closer and closer to the fun bit, adding fish. Now it s all up and running, and hopefully a schedule of essential testing is in place, the next issue will add life and activity to the system. Marine Habitat 31

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33 search YOUR LOCaL shops TOdaY! W W W. L O C A L F I S H S H O P. C O. U K IN THIs IssUe... 1 CReaTURe COmfORTs & aquatic CeNTRe The service here is always provided by qualified specialist aquatic staff. The owner, Jeremy Windgate, also owns Promin, an aquarium food and dry goods brand. 2 ROmseY WORLd Of WaTeR featured This place truly lives up to its name, with a site that covers 4 acres. It is unfortunate, however, that the flooding of the site resulted in a story that made the national news. 3 ReefdReams If you are in the market for inspiration on the high-tec front, top-quality product ranges and impeccable professional service, this is the place to be. save 10 ON LIVesTOCK Marine Habitat 33

34 Shop Profile > Dylan Taylor Creature Comforts & Aquatic Centre Creature Comforts & Aquatic Centre did not make it into the shop profiles because we tend to focus on the pure aquatics outlets (rather than pet shops with aquarium sections); however, the shop came recommended from a reliable source, and it did not disappoint. Heading up a friendly team on the day of my visit were senior staff member Lisa Matthias and third-generation family business operator Nick Windgate. The store is located in the Totton area of Southampton, conveniently (for parking) situated right next to a large branch of Asda. The shop has been running since 1984, when it was founded as an aquatics outlet by Nick s grandfather, William. The current figure at the helm who was not around during my visit is Nick s father, Jeremy Windgate, who is also the owner of the Promin brand of aquarium feeds and dry goods. A second aquatics branch of Creature Comforts is located in Gosport, within the Pampurred Pets outlet. Creature Comforts has an extensive range of dry goods on offer from all the familiar names, as well as a few that are rarely seen on retail shelves, such as Julian Sprung s Sea Veggies. As may be expected from a store with a serious marine aquatics section, TMC dry goods are well represented, as are Seachem, D+D, NT Labs and New Era feeds. Other non-livestock items on offer for marine fishkeepers include Ocean Nutrition frozen feeds, live mysid shrimps, copepods and rotifers. A large space has been dedicated to marine livestock, and this area is well laid out with tiled flooring, predominately LED lighting and large centralised filtration systems. The livestock is sourced weekly from TMC. Everyone has their own preference, but I was very taken with a large and healthy-looking specimen of Rock Beauty Angelfish (Holacanthus tricolor), which was my pick among the fish in stock. Other creatures that caught my attention were some Nassarius sp. snails (I m a snail lover) and a White-Faced Butterflyfish (Chaetodon mesoleucos). I didn t see any crazily priced marine life. Nick advised me that while anything can be ordered in for customers, the salty side of the shop caters mainly for beginner to intermediate marine aquarium keepers and tends to feature a very wide range of livestock, with soft and LPS corals dominating the invertebrate section. It s worth mentioning, for those of you who prefer to buy larger specimens, that Creature Comforts has plenty of large and XL marine fish and corals in stock. In short, no marine aquarist making a trip to Southampton should miss this shop. It is one of the better ones in the region, and really does have a lot on offer at sensible prices. Nick told me that customers can also expect expert advice on tap; it is a policy of the shop to have qualified specialist aquatic staff on duty every day, and if a member of staff is approached for advice on a particular subject which isn t their area of expertise, customers will always be referred to the specialist on duty, rather than being brushed off with an uninformed reply. I found the shop to be a friendly place with a fun team, and I have no hesitation in recommending it. Creature Comforts & Aquatic Centre Ringwood Road, Totton, Southampton SO40 8DA OPENING TIMES Mon-Fri: Sat: Sun: TEL: WEB: 34 Marine Habitat

35 Shop Profile > Dylan Taylor Romsey World of Water If ever a place lives up to its name, Romsey World of Water is the one. My visit took place just after the premises had been forced to close for 2 1/2 weeks due to extensive flooding the first time this had happened in the long history of the shop. I was shown around the site by James Dwyer, who has the title of Department Manager of Tropical Aquatics. The flooding of the site had resulted in a story that had made the national news due to the escape of a 3ft sturgeon from one of the outdoor ponds. The story of Steve the sturgeon had a happy ending though, as he was found alive and well at a local car wash half a mile away when the flood water receded. At the time of my visit, another escapee Chadwick the Chagoi (a type of koi carp) had just been spotted swimming in the River Test (a tributary of which was responsible for the flooding) and plans were afoot to catch him. At the height of the flood, the outdoor ponds were 3ft below water, so escapes were inevitable. In the fish house and retail premises, the flood only amounted to a few inches of water, but this was enough to cause an electrical failure that shut down the pumps for the marine livestock system. This turned out to be a blessing in disguise because the marine system features a below-ground sump tank that was entirely flooded with cold muddy river water, and the pump failure prevented the freshwater being pumped into the livestock tanks, which, in turn, meant the marine life went largely unscathed. Romsey World of Water is a huge place and certainly lives up to the signage describing it as an aquatic super centre. James told me that the store was the original flagship World of Water, and the group has since expanded to around 20 UK sites in total. That said, since 2009 the Romsey site has become independent of the group. The site covers 4 acres, 1.5 acres of which are taken up by a lake containing koi, common carp, sturgeon and water birds, where activities include fish feeding and the sailing of radio-controlled boats by local enthusiasts. The site even has its own cafeteria with a rather space age-looking Eheim marine aquarium, but also good coffee and cakes, which James highly recommends. The indoor retail area is easy to navigate and well presented. As you d expect, there is a huge selection of marine dry goods. There are also plenty of impressive display tanks; foremost among the brands on offer was Red Sea, as the shop is a platinum dealer, meaning there are two wet displays and the full range of Red Sea tanks on show in the store. James mentioned that LED lighting units continue to be very popular, singling out the Onyx brand for praise in terms of value for money. There is also a well-presented kiddie corner, with cutesy themed starter setups for anyone trying to encourage their little ones to take up the noble art of fishkeeping. All the marine livestock carried (with the exception of frags brought in from customers) is from TMC. In the aftermath of the floods, stocks were low (and in recovery mode) but highlights include Mexican Dragon Eels (Enchelycore pardalis), a Sargassum Trigger (Xanthichthys ringens), and a great range of corals, including some Button Corals (Parascolymia vitiensis). Overall this is an impressive place with a modern professional feel. It is definitely a place to go if you find yourself itching to visit an aquatics outlet whilst in the company of people who don t like fish shops, as they will find plenty to do exploring the rest of the site, leaving you free to do what you do best. Romsey World of Water 93 Greatbridge Road, Romsey, Hampshire SO51 0HB OPENING TIMES Mon-Sat: Sun: TEL: WEB: Marine Habitat 35

36 shop Profile > Dylan Taylor reefdreams serious reefkeepers take note: this shop is for you. I arrived at Reefdreams rather late in the evening, having been taken on a mystery tour of the local floods and resulting closed roads by my satnav, so I wasn t in the best of moods when I stepped into the shop. Steve Waterhouse, the founder and owner of the business, had kindly agreed to stay open late just to allow me to squeeze in this visit, and despite my arriving even later than promised, he offered me coffee and made me very welcome. Reefdreams is definitely not your average aquarium shop, and I soon perked up as Steve told me a bit about how the shop came to exist. Steve is very much the life and soul of this business. Following a redundancy in 2007, he purchased an existing mail order business known as Monitors Direct, which specialised in selling not computer monitors, but the kind of monitoring equipment used for technical aquatics purposes, such as ph meters and probes, conductivity meters, and suchlike. As a man with a passion for marine aquariums, he soon expanded the offerings of the company to include marine dry goods. Steve avoided the trap of trying to compete with the bigger online and mail order outlets on ever lower prices, and in 2011 he opened Reefdreams as a specialist marine aquatics retail store. Operating from an 18th century barn in Winchester, the store aims solely to meet the demand for high-quality marine aquatics hardware, dry goods and livestock,...regular.regu customers travel 2 hours each way from as far afield as the Midlands and Wales, considering this to be their LFS all under one roof. This decision has proven to be a good one, and around 75% of Steve s trade is now retail; 25% is still through online mail order of dry goods, and there are plans to add live rock and corals to the mail order offerings in the near future. What sets Reefdreams aside from other outlets is the top-to-bottom emphasis on quality. From the website to the phone system, the greeting and service in the shop to the livestock displays and signage, everything is well presented and professional. You are immediately given the impression that you can confidently count on Reefdreams to provide excellent products and livestock, and that is a feeling you need to have when parting with larger sums of hardearned cash for higher-end products. To back this up, Steve advised me that many of his regular customers travel 2 hours each way from as far afield as the Midlands and Wales, considering this to be their LFS. With the plethora of online outlets offering the same dry goods, it is the livestock in particular that pulls people to the shop. Interestingly, Steve told me that although all are more than welcome in the shop, the customers tend to be second tier by this he means home aquarists who may already have some marine experience, but are now interested in taking the hobby to the next level. One of the things that Reefdreams specialises in is the high-tec side of the hobby items such as lighting and aquarium control, and monitoring computers such as the GHL Profilux, which 36 Marine Habitat

37 Shop Profile > Dylan Taylor SAVE 10 Spend 50 or more on livestock at Reefdreams and save 10 Full name: Address: Postcode: Telephone: TERMS & CONDITIONS: Voucher can only be used once and MUST be filled in. Only one voucher can be used per transaction. Voucher cannot be used in conjunction with other offers and cannot be exchanged for cash. Voucher must accompany purchases but may be photocopied to avoid spoiling the magazine. Valid from 10/04/14-04/06/14 For any problems with this voucher, please contact the store or allows users to programme dosing pumps and lighting patterns, and to be alerted by SMS in case of low water level or pump failure. Other specialist brands on offer include the advanced additives range from Korallenzucht, which includes biological and chemical solutions for issues such as cyanobacteria outbreaks, flatworm infestations on corals, and nutrients that promote health of corals, sponges and sea squirts. Whilst I am personally not keen on bottles of stuff that are not backed up with a list of active ingredients/contents and published data to support their efficacy, Korallenzucht is a well-respected German company that has over two decades of experience in SPS coral production and growth. Regardless of my personal position, the proof is on show with the health, colour and vibrancy of the corals and other marine invertebrates held in the livestock systems at Reefdreams, where these products are in regular use because Steve believes in putting his money where his mouth is. The Korallenzucht system is not the only show in town at Reefdreams. Different types of corals (soft, LPS and SPS) are kept in separate systems in the shop to best suit their specific needs. The balling system and calcium reactors are also deployed and used for demonstration purposes, for customers who wish to know more about the various methods and equipment used to such good effect in the shop s displays. Yet another offering from Reefdreams is custom-made laser-cut glass aquariums, cabinets and systems (the multi-tiered glass coral display unit behind Steve and Aaron in the accompanying images is a fine example of their work). As well as dry goods, the shop also produces live copepods and rotifers for customers who require these. On to the main event: the livestock. As you can see from the pictures, there is a huge range of colourful marine life on offer in the display tanks. It isn t practical to list them all here, but for me the standouts were some large clams and the superb range of zoanthids on offer. Zoanthids often look great in pictures but not so great in the flesh, but not here. The colours were amazingly vivid. As for the corals, there was everything from 5 frags up to colonies of Acanthastrea sp., topping out at around 500. Rather than have a million messy price tags plastered over the front of the coral tanks (other shops take note!), every single coral that comes into the shop is photographed and assigned a price, and these can be browsed in a ringbound catalogue that is constantly updated. On this subject, potential customers are advised to check out the store s Facebook page, where all new livestock is announced with individual high-quality images amounting to over 200 new images per week; it s a mammoth task but one that is very valuable in allowing customers to have remote browsing of livestock. Fish-wise, there is a lot to like at Reefdreams. Yes, there are a few fish that I can only describe as collector s items such as a Black Tang (Zebrasoma rostratum) at 850 (sold) but there is also a great selection of interesting and well-chosen species, such as the underrated Convict Tangs (Acanthurus triostegus), some beautiful species of anthias, and a personal favourite, the Purple Tilefish (Hoplolatilus purpureus). You don t need a long list of fish that won t be in stock by the time you read this though, just check out the Facebook page and see for yourself. So that s it; it just remains for me to say thanks to Steve and Aaron for staying late and making me feel so welcome, and to advise you, dear reader, not to miss this shop if you get the chance to visit. Reefdreams The Barn Store, Abbotts Barton, Winchester SO23 7HY OPENING TIMES Mon-Tue: Weds: Closed Thurs-Fri: Sun: TELEPHONE: sales@reefdreams.co.uk WEBSITE: Marine Habitat 37

38 Keep Your Balance with Red Sea Salts Natural Coral Growth Accelerated Coral Growth RED SEA SALT Optimal Ratios & Levels of Elements for Healthy Marine Life Salinity ppt Reef Foundation Elements Ca ppm Mg ppm Alk / KH meq/l ºdKH 2.8 / / 8.2 CORAL PRO SALT Optimal Ratios & Levels of elements for accelerated Coral Growth Salinity ppt Reef Foundation Elements Ca ppm Mg ppm Alk / KH meq/l ºdKH 4.3 / / 12.7 Fish Stay on top of your reef Inverts At Red Sea our research team established that in a reef aquarium an optimal balanced ratio among what we call the Foundation Elements ( Calcium, Magnesium and Carbonates) makes coral growth and other biological processes more energy efficient making it easier to optimise coral growth and coloration. As a result, we developed our new formulas of Red Sea and Coral Pro. These salts, which are created according to this balanced ratio, eliminate the need to adjust the levels of foundation elements when making water changes and significantly improve the vitality and well being of all corals Low Nutrient SPS All natural eco-friendly harvesting from the Red Sea Biologically balanced levels of foundation elements Full complement of trace elements No Nitrates or Phosphates (algae nutrients) No toxic levels of heavy metals No chemical binders % change in skeletal mass LPS Balanced Weeks SPS Unbalanced Tridacna Ca 460, Alk 12 Mg 1400 Ca 430, Alk 9 Mg 1290 Ca 450, Alk 7 Mg 1200 A blend of science and nature, with the living reef in every harvested grain. Red Sea Aquatics (UK) Ltd PO Box 1237 Cheddar, BS279AG T: +44 (0) sales.uk@redseafish.com

39 G U I D E >>EDITOR S CHOICE<< LIFE ROCK Is it live or not? It s so lifelike it s hard to tell! Allow me to introduce what is quite possibly the ultimate rock solution for reef systems, recently brought to the market by Caribsea. If you have a marine aquarium, it is extremely probable that it includes rock, but the question is, which type of rock? One may think that rock is rock, but this is far from being the case. LIVE ROCK Historically, captive aquariums have been furnished with natural live rock, taken from the same oceans as our fish and inverts. Many varieties are TM available, each with different names, but without getting too deep into this, base rock has not generally been exposed to light and therefore doesn t have any significant growth on it, while live reef rock is encrusted with coralline algae and houses millions of organisms (good and bad). By the time it hits the shops in the UK, it is all relatively expensive, due to the complexity, time and distance involved in getting it there. In addition, much of the life forms that were originally on the rock die during the shipping process, which means, at this end, it needs to go through a process known as curing, which further increases the cost to consumers. Base rock is the cheapest, live uncured rock sits mid-range, and live cured rock demands premium prices. MANUFACTURED ROCK In more recent years, alternatives to natural rock have appeared on the market, in the form of manmade cement structures, which are essentially dead and exhibit no natural colouration. In my opinion, however, these present lots of benefits and, in fact, my personal home reef aquarium was successfully established using this type of rock. It s cheaper, does not impact the natural reef environment, offers extreme efficiency by design, and removes the chance of bad hitch-hikers finding their way into one s system. The downsides are that it takes a lot longer to take on a natural look, and also requires patience to allow the good bacteria to establish itself, or the purchase of a separate live-nitrifying bacteria product to kick-start the process. LIFE ROCK Life Rock is a new product from Caribsea, which, quite incredibly, has the benefits of both natural live reef rock and alternative man-made cement rock; this removes the disadvantages of each, in order to create what could be considered the ultimate rock for a reef aquarium. Caribsea s Life Rock is actually mined aragonite rock (does not contain cement), and because this is therefore natural rock, albeit not natural reef rock, it results in a natural variability from one piece to another so essentially, no two pieces are the same. The other benefit on this front is that there are no bad pests hitchhiking their way into one s system. Now to the special bit the product has been treated and coated with a couple of special ingredients, one of which results in a purple coating straight off the shelf, while the other, and you are not going to believe this, is a bacterial film, which means the Life Rock is preloaded with the microbes needed to get the biological cycle jump-started. So the benefits are clear for anyone to see, but how does the price compare? In one word, the answer is competitively. The cheapest form of natural live rock that one can buy in the UK is known as base rock what if Life Rock was similar in price, but came already coated with purple and carrying the biological properties of the most expensive form of natural reef rock, that being live cured rock? Well it s time to get excited, because it is, and it does! PRODUCT Life Rock TM EXPECT TO PAY 90 for 9.07kg (20lb) box MORE INFO WHAT S IN STORE: THIS ISSUE S GEAR QUICK LOOK - AUTO-FEEDERS Marine Habitat 39

40 G U I D E SUPPLIER Tetratec PRODUCT EX1200 External Filter EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO The Tetratec EX1200 External Filter is suitable for aquariums of between 200 and 500 litres, offering a robust and easy-to-use option at great value. They are shipped ready for use, with an integrated filter start button that automatically fills the filter with water after installation. Water passes through a series of five different filter media (ceramic rings, biological filter foam and bio filter balls) for the removal of larger and medium-sized particles. Carbon Filter Medium reliably removes organic contaminants and Filter Floss for the reliable removal of the tiniest particles. SUPPLIER D-D Solutions PRODUCT Digital TDS meter and Thermometer EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO Fed up of buying RO water in, and decided to produce it at home? You re going to need a TDS meter to confirm the cleanliness of the output water. RO water should have a TDS of between 0 and 10, whereas tap water will vary between around SUPPLIER Simply Aquaria PRODUCT Flippercleaner EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO SUPPLIER Autoaqua PRODUCT Smart ATO EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO Topping up manually can be a maintenance nightmare, especially for open top aquariums. The Smart ATO is a unique top off system, with a patent pending contactless digital sensor that monitors and automates the refilling of evaporated water. The significant difference here is that there are no moving parts that can get jammed, plus it is smart enough to detect a problem and using its integrated Auto Feedback Security (AFS) Technology protect against failure. NEW NEW SCAN FOR VIDEO The FlipperCleaner is pretty darn cool. It combines a large soft cleaning pad on one side for daily maintenance, with a stainless steel blade on the opposite side for removal of hard algae. The really clever bit is that it can be flipped over without having to remove it from the tank. It has a patented design which allows it to flip inside the tank simply by rotating the outer handle. In addition, Flipper s unique design maintains an upright orientation at all times, for easy retrieval. SCAN FOR VIDEO SCAN FOR VIDEO 38 Marine Habitat

41 Gear Guide > Marine Habitat 20 and 300. This particular meter is a handheld type, which is supplied pre-calibrated, measures TDS from ppm, boasts a long battery life with auto shut-off feature, automatic temperature compensation, and has a nice carry-case for safe keeping. >>QUICK LOOK<< AUTO-FEEDERS Going on holiday? Take the stress out of feeding your tank. For many reasons, going on holiday can often be rather stressful when fish tanks are involved the main consideration being, who feeds the fish? With the holiday season approaching, consider auto-feeders as a superb solution to this problem. This time round, we re taking a quick look at a few of the ones on the market. SUPPLIER Eheim PRODUCT Feed Air Automatic Feeder EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO The electronically controlled programming allows up to four daily feeding cycles of flake food in either single or double serving sizes. The large, easy-read LCD display/clock also shows the programmed feeding times. Food level monitoring is easily performed through the clear food container. SUPPLIER Simply Aquaria PRODUCT DIY cover EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO If you are looking for an aquarium cover that doesn t restrict airflow to the water surface or contribute to heat retention in the warmer months, here s the answer. A very sleek, lightweight, low visual impact and easy-to-construct screen cover, boasting minimal reduction in light, and available for tank sizes ranging from 60 x 60cm to 180 x 90cm. The screen frame and mesh arrive unconstructed, but are easily cut to size to allow fitting to almost all aquariums. SUPPLIER Juwel PRODUCT AutoFeeder EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO All High-Lite aquariums are equipped with a removable section within the flap to allow for the fitting of the JUWEL Automatic Feeder. The feeder caters for flake, pellet and tablet food, and offers an adjustable food outlet. Food capacity for approx. 30 days (60 feedings). SUPPLIER Fish Mate PRODUCT F14 Aquafish feeder EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO This versatile feeder offers various methods of attachments, and features a reliable quartz timer. It boasts extensive continuous use from a single battery. Food is served over several hours, keeping fish active and reducing danger of overfeeding. Timer provides one to four meals per day. SUPPLIER Interpet PRODUCT Digital Auto Feeder for Aquariums EXPECT TO PAY MORE INFO Programme the quantity of food and the feeding times up to four times a day. Easy to install, just use the mounting bracket to fit to the lip of the aquarium, or double-sided tape to mount to the lid. SUPPLIER Superfish PRODUCT Computer Controlled Aqua-feeder EXPECT TO PAY 27 MORE INFO The Superfish offering provides a computer controller feeder, suitable for both flake and pellet foods. It has a digital display through which one to four feeds can be programmed to automatically dispense per day. Power consumption is very low. Marine Habitat 37

42 FISH JUNKIES SHOP BOOKS BOOKS shop.fishjunkies.co.uk All major cards accepted Banggai Cardinalfish Guide to Captive Care, Breeding & Natural History Native to a tiny, remote archipelago in Indonesia, the Banggai Cardinalfish is a biological rarity that has captured the attention of scientists, marine aquarists, divers, and conservationists. Nano Reef Aquariums By Albert Thiel Nano Reef Aquariums contains 448 pages and over 275 colour images; it covers in great detail everything you need to know about setting up a nano reef aquarium, and how to maintain it successfully. RRP EXCLUSIVE RRP EXCLUSIVE Reef Aquarium Fishes and Marine Invertebrates PocketExpert Guides RRP The Super Simple Guide to Corals and The Simple Guide to Mini-Reef RRP What Fish? Reef Fish and What Invertebrate RRP Dr. Burgess s Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes and Marine Aquarium Handbook Beginner to Breeder RRP The Saltwater Aquarium Handbook Dr. Burgess s Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes The Conscientious Marine Aquarist The Simple Guide to Marine Aquariums RRP RRP RRP RRP The Manual of Fish Health RRP What Fish? A buyer s guide to marine fish Mini Encyclopedia of The Marine Aquarium RRP RRP RRP What Fish? A buyer s guide to reef fish What Invertebrate? A buyer s guide for marine aquariums RRP Reef Aquarium Fishes The Complete Illustrated 500+ Essential-to-know Marine Invertebrates Breeder s Guide to species PocketExpert Guide Marine Aquarium Fishes RRP RRP RRP The Simple Guide to Mini-Reef Aquariums Mini Encyclopedia The Reef Aquarium RRP RRP RRP The Reef Aquarium Marine Fishes: 500+ Essential-to-know Aquarium Species (PocketExpert Guide) RRP Damselfishes & Anemonefishes The 101 Best Saltwater Fishes Advanced Marine Aquarium Techniques Wrasses & Parrotfishes RRP RRP RRP RRP The New Marine Aquarium Marine Aquarium Handbook: Beginner to Breeder Aquarium Corals Selection, Husbandry and Natural History RRP RRP RRP RRP The Super Simple Guide to Corals WE CHALLENGE YOU TO FIND BETTER PRICES FREE UK DELIVERY ON ALL ORDERS OVER 20 PHONE : BUY NOWONLINE : shop.fishjunkies.co.uk

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44 Biology Class > Tom The Blowfish Hird Isselee Dreamstime.com 44 Marine Habitat

45 Biology Class > Tom The Blowfish Hird Lateral line Did you realise fish that and the London Underground have something in common? In this issue s Biology Class, Tom explains why. Now, here I m looking at something so important to our fishy friends that you could argue it is more important than vision. I am sure most, if not all, of you will know what the lateral line is. Some of you will have had the misfortune of treating a fish suffering from lateral line erosion, but what does the lateral line actually do? How does it work? Well, let me LINE up the facts and think LATERALLY on this problem There is a canal beneath the scales and skin of the fish, running from the head all the way down to the tail. Neuromasts are situated along the length of this canal. Each neuromast consists of multiple sensory hairs, covered Every physical action in the water causes a wave of pressure, and fish are masters of reacting to these changes in a flexible jelly-like cone called a cupola. The canal is linked at regular intervals to the outside environment via small tubes, so that water can enter and exit the lateral line system. As the fish moves about in its watery world, waves of water pressure pass by. This water pressure is transmitted through the tubes down into the canal and past the neuromasts. The jelly-like cupola bends, causing the hairs inside to flex and send signals to the brain. This information is processed into detailed facts about the fish s surroundings. Think of it like this: those of you who have braved the London Underground will know that when you are standing on the platform, you feel the train approaching by the wind that it pushes suddenly out of the tunnel and across the platform. This is how the lateral line works. Standing on the platform, you are the neuromast, and the TOM THE BLOWFISH HIRD Age: 29 Hometown: Halifax Full-time occupation: Marine biologist/tv presenter Marine experience: Worked with marine aquaria for 9yrs Aquarium size: TMC Signature 120L Favourite... fish: Blue Spotted Stingray. coral: Zoanthids. Fungia, Ricordea other: Tridacna clams, crustacean life any inverts Specialist areas: Marine biology, Tridacnid clams, behaviour, temperate marine wind is the pressure wave of water rushing down into the lateral line. You can see how easy it is to judge the speed, power or direction of the train just by the change in air pressure. It is the same for the fish. Every physical action in the water causes a wave of pressure, and fish are masters of reacting to these changes. This is why it is so hard to simply net a fish the net is slamming a massive warning sign towards the fish that we cannot see or feel, but the fish certainly can! When a fish suffers from lateral line erosion, the neuromasts can still function, but without the canal to properly direct the pressure waves, their accuracy is massively impaired. TH CLOSE-UP OF THE LATERAL LINE Water Water flow Scales Skin/scales Cupola Sensory hair nerve cells Neuromast Marine Habitat 45

46 NAME: Mark Alexander Smith FORUM NAME: markalex74 AGE: 39 CAMERA: iphone 5 Our regular Picture Perfect spot features three of the best hobbyist photos, brought to you by Reef-Face forum. In each issue, the top three entries from the online competition are published in Marine Habitat. JOINT WINNER There wasn t really much preparation; I pretty much just cleaned the glass, put a little food in to get some fish in the shot, and that was it. JOINT WINNER NAME: Nav Mahbub FORUM NAME: Hiddenreefer AGE: 39 CAMERA: Blackberry Z10 I took this picture from an angle after playing with the settings on the phone, and with only a few months of practice. 2nd NAME: Grant Ward FORUM NAME: mr tap water AGE: 55 CAMERA: iphone 4s CAMERA EXPERIENCE: It used to be one of my hobbies 30 years ago but I never kept up with it. Daylight was a problem, so I closed the curtains to stop glare on the tank and managed to get this nice shot. Well done to the winners, who receive a fantastic prize from The Cockfields Farm ABOUT THE PRIZE The Cockfields Farm are giving away one of their fantastic frags to each of this month s winners. All frags are well settled and grown out prior to sale, and Cockfields often demonstrate their fragging techniques live during their Frag Nights. VISIT FOR AVAILABLE STOCK, OR CALL Marine Habitat

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48 Do it the JBL way to suit the specific needs of your marine aquarium. Foods for every taste! Care products for every fish and inverts! Tests for every parameter! Lights for every need! Filters for every tank! Handy accessories for every situation!

49 DYLAN TAYLOR S NEWS FROM AROUND THE WORLD THAT MATTERS TO YOU Rod Waddington Wikimedia Commons GLOBAL STUDY WARNS 25% OF SHARKS & RAYS FACE EXTINCTION A worldwide study carried out by the Shark Specialist Group (SSG) of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) reported that elasmobranches (the name given to the group which includes all 1,041 species of sharks, rays and chimaeras) were at much higher risk than most other groups of animals, with only 23% of species deemed safe or of Least Concern. Overfishing was identified as the greatest threat to wild populations. Our analysis shows that sharks and their relatives are facing an alarmingly elevated risk of extinction, said Dr Nick Dulvy, IUCN SSG co-chair and Canada Research chair at Simon Fraser University in British Columbia. In greatest peril are the largest species In February many of the tabloids ran a story of how Lancashire police were on the lookout for a young lady who is alleged to have slapped a 52-year-old fish counter worker across the face with a large sea bream in the Accrington branch of Asda. The motive is thought to have been a prank, as a young man observed recording the incident on a cell phone was also seen fleeing from the scene. Whilst the mystery slapper appears to be lying low, the unusual incident has caused a stir on the Internet where I noticed this comment from a user known only as TrollHunter: I ve read the story and if I m herring it right, to be honest I m floundering for an explanation why it might have taken plaice. As she got hit in the face I wonder if the Asda worker ended up with a bit of a haddock afterwards. If I tweet her, do you think she d let minnow? of rays and sharks, especially those living in shallow water that is accessible to fisheries. Surprisingly, we have found that the rays, including sawfish, guitarfish, stingrays, and wedgefish, are generally worse off than the sharks, with five out of the seven most threatened families made up of rays, remarked Dr Colin Simpfendorfer, IUCN SSG co-chair and professor of Environmental Science at James Cook University in Queensland, Australia. While public, media and government attention to the plight of sharks is growing, the widespread depletion of rays is largely unnoticed. Conservation action for rays is lagging far behind, which only heightens our concern for this species group. GIRL FISH-SLAPS ASDA WORKER CCTV stills released by Lancashire Police showing the suspects I suppose kids being kids, she only did it for the halibut. Probably a carpe diem moment. Stupid really though, as she could have pulled a mussel picking up the fish. I hope Asda find out who did it as some fin should dolphinately be done about it. The quicker it gets sorted out the batter. Asda shouldn t shark the issue of fish-slapping in their stores and salmon needs to be caught because they might do it again if the oppor-tuna-ty arises. PROOF THAT FISH SEE THINGS DIFFERENTLY Things look very different to us underwater. At depth, things appear blue to us due to certain wavelengths of daylight not penetrating the aquatic realm beyond a few metres. An intriguing new study has shown that many fish species are actually biofluorescent; they are able to give off light in ways that we cannot see with human eyes, but which other fish may well be able to see. This suggests that, for fish, things don t look as blue underwater as they do for us, as fish may be able to see other bioflourescent fish due to the presence of yellow long-pass intraocular filters in the eyes of many biofluorescent fish groups. Interestingly, biofluorescence has been found to be more common among boring-looking fish that are naturally camouflaged and rely on stealth, such as scorpionfish. The researchers said that the field of biofluorescence has not yet received enough attention and that the fish may use the biofluorescence for camouflage when hunting prey, stealth when avoiding their own predators, and for communication purposes such as displays to attract mates. They note that some flatfish, for example, seem to have green biofluorescence on their undersides and red biofluorescence on their upper surface, and when we consider that flashing their undersides is a part of the mating ritual, this suggests that these fish may be showing off using colours that we can t even see. A striking image showing how biofluorescent fish may appear to each other when viewed through their own specially adapted eyes. Citation: Sparks J. S., Schelly R. C., Smith W. L., Davis M. P., Tchernov D., et al. (2014); The Covert World of Fish Biofluorescence: A Phylogenetically Widespread and Phenotypically Variable Phenomenon; PLoS ONE 9(1): e doi: /journal.pone Marine Habitat 49

50 NEWS IN BRIEF FIRST-KNOWN FISH SENTINELS Researchers on Australia s Great Barrier Reef have observed three species of rabbitfish engaged in co-ordinated sentinel behaviour, wherein one (of a pair) of a fish looks out for predators whilst the other forages for food. Sentinel behaviour has only previously been reported in birds and mammals. SEASONAL ADJUSTMENTS FOR HAMMERHEAD SHARKS Scalloped hammerhead sharks in the Galapagos Islands were fitted with depth and temperature sensors revealing that while they don t stray far from their territories year round, they change depth in line with seasonal currents, staying within zones that have a temperature of C. JELLY WITH CUCUMBERS? Sea cucumbers are big money as a delicacy in Asia. Farmed in ponds, a recent experiment showed that adding jellyfish (also edible) to the ponds speeded up the growth rate of the cucumbers due to increased transfer rate of nutrient particles to the seabed. SEAHORSES ON-THE- SPOT RECOGNITION Portuguese researchers have developed a system to recognise individual Spiny Seahorses (Hippocampus guttulatus) in the wild without the use of tags. The seahorses are photographed during surveys, and software is used to recognise individuals based on their unique spotted patterns. HOOK AND LINE BUT NO SINKER Taiwanese doctors operated and successfully removed a fish hook and 13cm of nylon line from a woman s oesophagus in Tainan City, after she reported feeling extreme pain in her throat during a seafood dinner. CLOWNFISH DNA TESTS REVEAL FAMILY TIES When you look at clownfish in their the two small Indonesian islands that they anemones in the wild, there is no way looked at, up to 65% of Common Clowns of telling what relationship the individual (Amphiprion ocellaris) and 47% of Pink Skunk clownfish have to one another. Scientists Clownfish (A. perideraion) were the offspring have now used DNA tests to look at of parents on the same island. Returning whether clownfish that live in the same clownfish tended to live on adjacent locality share the same parents. areas to parents, though not to share Considering that the tiny clownfish larvae their original home anemone. Previous are exposed to open ocean currents, tides, studies have shown that larval clownfish wind and waves for the first 2 weeks or so are able to swim towards suitable habitats of their lives, you might not expect them by following scent trails that are specific to have too much choice in determining to certain species of host anemone. where they settle down. It may come as a One of the aims of this study was to surprise then to learn that in a recent study, understand the details of wild clownfish scientists were able to determine that, on larvae dispersal and to use this information YELLOW TANG LARVAL REARING PROGRESS IN HAWAII Researchers at the Oceanic Institute (OI) in Hawaii have reported some exciting news on their efforts to captive-breed the ever-popular Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens). In a statement, Chad Callan of OI explained: On Jan 1st 2014 we stocked a 1,000L tank with about 40,000 yellow tang eggs. In this rearing attempt we experimented with very high water turnover rates, and very clean (ultra UV dose) water. As in previous studies, we used the calanoid copepod, Parvocalanus crassirostris, as our feed. While this was only one tank (we are currently testing these methods again), we immediately noticed far more fish making it through the early larval period than ever before. We were really excited to see 1000s of fish survive past the first 2-3 weeks and ended up with more than 600 at day 35. We have since moved the fish to smaller tanks and are investigating potential settlement cues, such as photoperiod and substrate. The fish recently crossed day 50 and appear to be looking very close to settlement. We re observing fairly high mortality during this period of transition, but still have more than 150 fish distributed among our tanks. We are hoping at least a few make it through, but regardless we are very encouraged by this recent progress! OI were among the first to rear dwarf marine angelfish back in Anyone interested in captive breeding Larval Yellow Tang at 60 days post-hatch. Courtesy of Chad Callan of impossible marine aquarium fish should watch this space closely! News Update: Chad Callan ed me this exclusive update for Marine Habitat readers: We have noticed that these fish don t seem to be taking to Artemia all that well, and despite eating it (minimally) are still experiencing high mortality. Between day 40 and 60 the fish appear to undergo a period of rapid growth, where the body gets much deeper and more tangshaped. However, the fish appear to require some other type of prey during this time, as Artemia are not sustaining them. Future trials will investigate alternative zooplankton for this period, as well as varied environmental conditions (light intensity and photoperiod). We still have a couple hanging on and we re almost to day 70 (just prior to this going to print), although they still look very similar to this photo. 50 Marine Habitat

51 FOR MORE NEWS GO TO to advise on how to protect wild Indonesian populations of clownfish against overfishing for aquarium purposes, by carefully selecting the location and size of marine protected areas (MPAs) that would be effective in maintaining healthy populations. Photographer: Nick Hobgood Wikimedia Commons Citation: Madduppa H. H., Timm J., Kochzius M. (2014); Interspecific, Spatial and Temporal Variability of Self-Recruitment in Anemonefishes; PLoS ONE 9(2): e doi: /journal.pone INDIAN RESEARCHERS FIRST TO BREED PURPLE FIREFISH Nat Tarbox Wikimedia Commons A report authored by K. Madhu of the Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute, Mariculture Division, in the region of Kerala in India, details the first-ever published case of captive breeding of the Purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora). The paper details how the adult pairs were formed during the first 6 months of captivity, with pairs then kept in individual tanks for a further 6 months of intensive feeding and conditioning. Spawning resulted in eggs per batch, and the eggs took 4 days to hatch at 28 C. The males were observed to be the main guardians of the eggs. With 93 to 98% of eggs hatching, the resulting larvae were kept in tanks containing microalgae (Nannochloropsis oculata and Chlorella salina) as well as various species of zooplankton that were tested experimentally, including two species of rotifer, ciliates and copepods. The crucial period before reaching 19 days of age, by which time they could consume Artemia nauplii, provided some interesting results. Survival during the first 18 days was lowest at between 3 and 10% when rotifers were used, higher at 40% when nauplii of the copepod Acartia danae were used, and highest of all, at an impressive 66% when ciliates Euplotes sp. were used and followed by rotifers. The larvae metamorphosed into juveniles at days after hatching. No word yet on whether this species will now be made available as captive-bred, but I m sure somebody out there will attempt to replicate this rearing process for the commercial production of this superb little fish. Marine Habitat 51

52 SEAHORSES & PIPEFISH Creatures of myth and legend, and strangely compelling to observe, these fish will be a highlight of your aquarium if you are sensitive to their needs. TRISTAN LOUGHER Age: 39 Hometown: Northwich, UK Full-time occupation: Zoologist Marine experience: 15yrs Aquarium size: None at home; I m responsible for many aquaria at Cheshire Waterlife Favourite fish: Yellow Eye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus) coral: African Blue Coral (Cespitularia) other: Anything but sea urchins Specialist areas: Species knowledge There are few more enigmatic groups of fish than the beautiful seahorses. Together with their brethren the pipefish and the sea dragons, they comprise the family Syngnathidae. Much has been written about members of this family and they have a reputation for being difficult fish that are the realm of specialist aquarists alone. However, due in part to CITES restrictions on the movement of seahorses (and therefore their collection and trade), there has never been a better time to keep these wonderful fish successfully, as practically every specimen that aquarists encounter will have been captive-bred and therefore used to aquarium life. Pipefish are a little trickier, but with care and the creation of an environment sympathetic to their needs, there are species that will thrive in traditional reef aquaria. However, all too frequently these beautiful fish are put into busy, boisterous aquaria entirely unsuitable for their long-term needs. Seahorses and pipefish belong to the handful Seahorses and pipefish belong to that handful of fish families that can reward aquarists with their entirely natural behaviours of fish families that can reward aquarists with their entirely natural behaviours if you are prepared to offer them good conditions and peaceful tank mates. Chief amongst these behaviours are the fascinating courtship and spawning rituals. Male seahorses are famous for brooding their eggs, deposited by the female in an abdominal pouch, but the fact that many pipefish species do this too is less widely appreciated. Indeed, some species such as the Alligator Pipefish (Syngnathoides biaculeatus) carry their eggs attached directly to their flattened underside and the aquarist can see the embryos develop. In listing my Top 6 species I have taken the decision to discuss two of the most common seahorse species currently available in the hobby, together with four genera of pipefish. As a general rule of thumb, the husbandry for species contained in the same genus is similar, although there are some examples of species that are easier to maintain than others. 52 Marine Habitat

53 Top of the Rocks > Tristan Lougher 6 Snake Pipefish (Corythoichthys intestinalis) These beautiful pipefish are adapted to life on rocky or sand rubble-based seabeds and are characterised by having a flat underside and very thin mouth. They are active predators of benthic invertebrates and can prove very difficult to wean onto non-live foods. They feed on the kind of microfauna favoured by dragonet species such as the mandarins (Synchiropus spp.) and can survive and even thrive where there is little or ideally no competition for the naturally occurring isopods, copepods and amphipods that can proliferate in marine aquaria. This diet can be supplemented with enriched live brine shrimp nauplii, and aquarists should try to encourage individuals to take frozen offerings too. The difficulties in feeding these fish are particularly frustrating when one considers how robust they are in other ways. They are one of the hardiest species of pipefish commonly available in the hobby and are perfectly at home on the rocks and sand of a reef aquarium. 5Giant Coloured Seahorse (Hippocampus reidi) One of the largest species of seahorse commonly available in the hobby, H. reidi is also one of the most beautiful. Wild specimens can display a range of colours and patterns (depending on where they are encountered, stress levels, age, and breeding condition) with red, orange and yellow individuals being commonplace. Unfortunately, captivebred specimens do not show the colour diversity of their wild counterparts and most individuals seen will be yellow with black and/or white bands. However, captive-bred specimens prove hardy and feed readily on frozen diets and are a beautiful choice for the seahorsesympathetic aquarium. The reasons for not placing them higher in this ranking are twofold: Firstly, they are expensive in comparison with other species, and secondly, they are more difficult to raise than some other species of seahorse, such as that ranked number One here. H.reidi youngsters are evacuated from the male s brooding pouch when they are around 7mm (0.28ins) in total length. For the Common Seahorse (H. kuda) the length is almost double this. This makes the difference between being able to feed the fry on live artemia nauplii or the necessity of sourcing something even smaller for the young H. reidi. It also increases the time required to grow these fish to a saleable size, thus raising overheads and therefore selling prices from breeders. Marine Habitat 53

54 Top of the Rocks > Tristan Lougher 4Banded Pipefish (Dunckerocampus dactyliophorus) If there was ever a fish that appeared delicate, it is this one. The long, slender yet rigid body with the even narrower snout and impossibly small mouth reminds one of a piece of glass rod that has been heated and stretched and is liable to shatter with the lightest of touches. Fortunately the Banded Pipefish is a little more robust than this, and yet success rates with the species are not great. A recurring theme throughout this feature is that pipefish that feed on readily available frozen diets are to be highly prized because they are not widespread. However, aquarists have many live foods at their disposal these days, from brine shrimp to copepods and mysids, and these can be an important step in weaning reluctant feeders onto more convenient diets. A liverock-rich system with few competitors for the naturally occurring microfauna is also advisable. In a peaceful reef aquarium this pipefish can thrive, and is likely to spawn too. 2Cleaner Pipefish (Doryrhamphus excisus) One of the easier species of pipefish to maintain in captivity because this is a species of which most individuals will accept frozen diets with enthusiasm. The mouth of this species is deceptively large, and in spite of most specimens being sold at around 5-6cm (2-2.4ins) total length, they can swallow brine shrimp whole and easily snick the tails from mysis shrimp. In their natural environment this species can act as cleaners of larger fish but this behaviour is not always seen in the aquarium. They can be shy fish, frequenting overhangs and caves or the more dimly-lit margins of the aquarium, but when settled and well fed, will often show courtship and breeding behaviours which are fantastic to witness. In common with the more difficult to feed species listed here, the Cleaner Pipefish is likely to supplement its diet with naturally occurring crustacean populations that develop in liverock-rich aquaria. 54 Marine Habitat

55 Top of the Rocks > Tristan Lougher 3Mangrove Pipefish (Hippichthys spp.) When I began writing this article it had been my intention to include the widely available Alligator Pipefish (Syngnathoides biaculeatus) at number three. This wide-ranging species frequents areas where its predominantly green body colouration and slender, leaf-like body shape can blend in beautifully with its surroundings. These include seagrass zones, areas of floating macroalgae and seaweeds. At the time I hadn t yet come across four individuals of a mangrove-dwelling species of pipefish, the Mangrove Pipefish (Hippichthys spp.), that changed my mind entirely. With a smaller maximum size of 12cm (4.5ins) and a similar green colouration, they were arguably less impressive than the Crocodile Pipe. However, lacking the prehensile tail of Syngnathoides spp., they crept about close to the substrate until frozen brine shrimp were offered then they swam up into the water and fed with enthusiasm. This, coupled with their colour- and pattern-changing abilities and their tolerance of each other, makes them fascinating, and certainly candidates for breeding in the future, and puts them in my number three slot. Their tolerance of each other, makes them fascinating 1Kuda Seahorse (Hippocampus kuda) The number one spot had to be reserved for a pretty special fish; not in terms of looks, as there are more brightly-coloured fish here. Also not in terms of behaviour, although this is a seahorse and therefore has interest factor in abundance. It isn t the most expensive of seahorse species and it isn t the rarest either. In fact, this is probably the seahorse with the widest distribution of all. For me, it commands first place in the Top 6 because it is the most common and most widely available of the seahorses and, dare I say it, the easiest too. One should never take husbandry of these fish lightly they certainly do best when housed in dedicated species aquaria with the bare minimum of clean-up crew. Indeed some of the most successful housing and breeding aquaria that I have seen were bare-bottomed systems filtered with airdriven sponge filters low tech, no fuss aquaria in which the seahorses thrived and bred, although these aquaria don t offer the kind of look you might want for your living room. However, they demonstrate what seahorses really want: clean conditions, enough food and sufficient time to feed, and good water quality. Offer captive-bred seahorses this kind of environment in whatever arrangement you like and they will generally thrive. Of course this is not just true of Kuda Seahorses, but this is the most widely available species in the UK hobby and it retails at much lower prices than the arguably more attractive H.reidi. Compared with the latter it also offers aquarists a greater chance of success with breeding. Put a male-female pair of seahorses into an aquarium, and where conditions are favourable, the chances of successful breeding occurring are high. Many aquarists have just been settling into life with a new pair of seahorses to discover that their two have become 22 or more overnight. H. kuda release young that are significantly larger than those of H.reidi and are therefore easier for aquarists to feed on the widely available brine shrimp nauplii. So the Kuda Seahorse ticks practically every box; it feeds readily on frozen foods, it is relatively easy to breed and raise, and it is widely available in the hobby as captive-bred specimens. It looks great too but, like many seahorses, it is variable in colour and pattern, and this colour can change according to the local environment. Colours vary from creamy-white to yellow, to dark brown to black. CONCLUSION In spite of being some of the more difficult marine fish to care for at least as a group pipefish and seahorses are also amongst the most rewarding to keep. Unless you have access to an abundance of high-quality and nutritionally enhanced live food, it is always a good idea to observe specimens feeding before purchasing them. Some species can thrive in peaceful, live rock-based systems where there is an abundance of self-sustaining populations of small crustaceans such as isopods or copepods, but those taking frozen diets are the specimens to look out for and prize above others. TL Marine Habitat 55

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59 JOHN MCFARLANE Age: 27 Hometown: Leeds Occupation: Joiner Marine experience: 6 years Aquarium size: 55 litres Tank start date: 1 year ago Favourite... fish: Midas Blenny coral: Torch Mixer Reef! Could a little nano like this suit a corner of your home? In this issue, West Yorkshire s John McFarlane steps up to show us that size isn t everything, and that downsizing tanks can be an enjoyable experience. Marine Habitat 59

60 Hobbyist Profile > John McFarlane In association with FROM THE BEGINNING... As far back as I can remember, my dad kept tropical and cold-water tanks. I used to stand beside them, amazed by the fish inside, just swimming around, until, at the age of 12, my dad finally agreed to let me have a small goldfish tank of my own. This would be my first in a long line of many. It was a small mahogany one that could only hold four fish, and I needed a lot of help, advice and guidance from my dad with all aspects of maintaining it especially water changes. One day when my dad was out, being a typical young lad, I decided I would take matters into my own hands. I wanted to make my goldfish tank look better, so I took a live plant from my dad s tropical tank and added it to mine, thinking the plant would grow nice, tall and healthy. But a few days later (my dad hadn t noticed), the plant seemed to have put some sort of disease into my tank. When my dad saw the fish in my tank, he worked out they had fin rot, and he spotted the plant I had taken. (He wasn t very pleased, to say the least!) By this time, it was too late for the poor fish and they had all died. I buried them in the back garden, and that was the end of the small hexagon fish tank. When my dad saw the fish in my tank, he worked out they had fin rot, and spotted the plant I had taken. (He wasn t very pleased, to say the least!) MORE RESPONSIBILITY Once I had recovered from the loss of the four goldfish, I moved on to a small, easyto-keep tropical tank with plastic plants this time! Needless to say I was more successful, and actually managed to maintain this tank for a number of years. Around the same time, my dad lost interest in fishkeeping and I took over his 4ft cold-water tank and small tropical tank. With another one in my bedroom, I was now steadily running three tanks. As my confidence grew, I shut down both tropical tanks and converted the 4ft cold-water tank into a tropical discus and angel only tank. As I was starting afresh on my own, the fish previously in the 4ft tank were safely rehomed in a neighbour s pond. For a number of months this tank was a huge success, and then one day, for unknown reasons, my precious discus died. I began to lose interest in maintaining a tropical tank, until the day my dad came home with a 1 book on marine fish, and everything changed. THE GOOD ADVICE, THE BAD ADVICE, AND THE COSTS IN BETWEEN Reading the book left me feeling ready to take on more of a challenge, and the idea of a FOWLR tank (Fish Only With Live 60 Marine Habitat

61 In association with Hobbyist Profile > John McFarlane Rock) was very appealing. So the next stage of my journey led me to convert an old tropical tank I had in the loft. I went to a local fish store, money at the ready, and picked up some live rock, some sand, a hang-on-the-back skimmer, a powerhead, and a container of saltwater. I was good to go! At first, the tank was very easy to maintain, though I later learned that the fish shop had given me some very bad advice. This led to various problems such as the tank being overrun by algae, and my overstocking the tank with aggressive fish. Fortunately, I came across the Ultimate Reef forum around this time, which was a huge help for good advice from other marine hobbyists (and is something I still use to this day). The best piece of advice I received was that the basis of a good marine tank was having a sump in which I could hide equipment, holding refugium, and having an extra volume of water. Looking around, I came across a Betta360 marine tank. With the other tank having been a conversion, this would be my first proper marine setup. BIGGER AND BETTER THINGS To begin with I had it as a fish-only tank, but later my knowledge extended and I discovered corals. I was amazed by the variety of colours and shapes. I purchased a cheap MH light so that I could extend and add corals to my tank. I started with soft corals, later moving ont o LPS corals I quickly discovered that some were much easier to keep than others. Over time, some thrived, but I lost a few that cost me dearly, and I decided it would be best to concentrate on my water. To my delight, I had great success in keeping the fish, and so added a small Yellow Tang. From that moment onwards, I was hooked on keeping tangs. The only way I could move forward now in this hobby was to go bigger and better. After a year, I was able to finally convince my parents to let me have a 5ft tank in which to keep more varieties of tangs. A few months down the line, after much searching, I discovered a 5ft tank with a 3ft sump. Even though it was ideal, it was too expensive to buy the saltwater, so I purchased an large RO unit and situated it under the sink. Little did I know it would take me endless days and nights to fill, resulting in little sleep. As I broadened my knowledge, I found my previous equipment was inadequate for the 5ft tank and I had to spend another fortune on new equipment from a marine specialist shop. This included a six-bulb ATI unit, Bubble Magus skimmer, a D-D UV sterilizer, MP10 wave maker, two Tunze wave makers, and a Reef Float auto-top up. Even though it cost me an arm and a leg, I decided it was prudent to choose equipment that would last. At this point I was finally ready to transfer the livestock over, but realised I had nowhere near enough live rock and sand. I returned to the forum and was lucky enough to buy enough mature live rock and sand from a fellow reefer. A few months passed and things were running smoothly. I introduced lots of soft and LPS corals to the tank to make it look nice and full. After making sure everything was stable and settled, I decided to add a Regal Tang and Powder Blue Tang. Things were going great, the only major issue was having to do the big water changes. The best investment I ever made Marine Habitat 61

62 Hobbyist Profile > John McFarlane In association with 62 Marine Habitat

63 In association with JOHN S TANK SPECIFICATION TANK AND EQUIPMENT TANK: Aqua Nano 40 DIMENSIONS: 40x40x40cm LIGHTING: Marine Reef LED dimmable light WATER DISTURBANCE: MP10 wave maker SKIMMER: Kent mini skimmer CAPACITY: 55L CAPACITY WITH ROCK: Na ROCK: 5kg live rock SUBSTRATE: TMC sand SUMP: n/a WATER: Bought from shop so not sure ADDITIVES: None EQUIPMENT Having learned from past experiences, I would always recommend buying decent equipment, as spending more on better equipment saves a lot of money and stress in the long run. TESTING When first setting up a tank, I have learnt it is extremely important to carry out all necessary tests, so that any problems/ issues can be detected early and treated. The longer you have the tank, and the more you become familiar with it, the less you will have to test. You will only have to do so when you feel or see that something is wrong. This is what I currently do, as I want minimal disruption, and currently all is well in my tank. AQUASCAPING In the tank I have at the moment, I have built an aquascape with a slight incline to make the most of the available space. CORALS Most of the corals I have in my tank are frags. I decided this was the best option so that the corals could grow/adapt in the space around them. FLOW I am using the Votech MP10 wave maker, and have found that there are two settings I can use on this tank (random mode and short pulse). I can only have them on the fifth dot on the controller, however, otherwise the flow is just too powerful for the tank. MAINTENANCE This tank is very easy to maintain compared to the 5ft model I previously owned. I have a strict rule that I complete a 10% water change every Sunday. I also complete a filter wool change and clean the skimmer cup once a week. Every couple of days, I clean the glass with a Magfloat Magnet cleaner, and I change the carbon and phos remover every 6 months. The only task I do every day is top up the RO water by hand. Hobbyist Profile > John McFarlane FEEDING I feed once a day to try to keep down the level of excess nutrients. I use a variety of frozen, pellets and flake. FISH Royal Gramma (only comes out at feeding time), Yellow Fin Fairy Wrasse, Midas Blenny. INVERTS Cleaner Shrimp, Blood Shrimp, two Hermit Crabs. CORALS Green mushroom, various Zoas, Duncans, two Torches, two Acans, Trancy, Hammer, Plating Coral (+ other SPS coral), Yellow, Star Polyps, Pulse Coral, Mushroom Leather. TANK STATS: SALINITY: TEMPERATURE: 26 degrees ph: 8 CALCIUM: 450 PHOSPHATE: 1 NITRATE: 5 DKH: 8-10 MAGNESIUM: Not sure was a reef float auto water changer, which saved me a lot of time and effort. Over the next year, I added a variety of fish, corals and inverts at one point, totalling 25 fish. One day, after coming home from work, I noticed the Powder Blue tang had somehow developed a massive gash down one side of its body. Unfortunately, before I had time to deal with this, I noticed a lot of the other fish had developed white spot. Panicking, I added some reef-safe treatment, but that was unsuccessful. The only other solution I could think of was to set up a treatment tank and dose the tank with copper. Sadly, I lost half the fish, although the other half responded well to the treatment After 12 weeks I was able to transfer the remaining fish back to the main tank. About a year and half later, thankfully having had no more problems and the tank thriving with healthy fish, the only things out of control were the corals. This led to me fragging lots and selling them to other keen reefers on the forum. And then, much to my disappointment, the rise in the cost of running such a big tank led to my parents decision to shut down the tank. Without much After a few weeks, for some unknown reason, the clown fish jumped out of the tank and I found it on the floor choice in the matter, I downsized to my present tank and sold everything from the tank to other reefers. STARTING FRESH A friend of mine on the forum told me about a nano tank, which could easily be converted to marine, and I knew of a pet shop that sold them at a very reasonable price. I decided to use the MP10. I bought a Kent protein skimmer and a dimmable Marine Reef LED light. I used the stock, heater and return pump. I made my own media rack out of egg crate to house filter wool, a bag of ROWA Carbon, and a bag of ROWA Phos. One good thing about this tank was its built-in rear chambers in which I could store equipment. Off I went to buy 5kg of live rock and realising it was cheaper and more convenient, I also bought water. My girlfriend, Hazel, was amazed at the varieties of corals and fish in the local fish shop. Back home, I persuaded her to help me fill up the tank and add the rock and sand. It took about a month for the tank to cycle and become stable, and over this time I tested every week for various things. The first things I added were the clean-up crew (a few crabs and a shrimp). It was then time to add the first fish (which was a clownfish). After a few weeks, for some unknown reason, the clownfish jumped out of the tank and I found it on the floor. So, in order to avoid any more issues, I made the decision that it was time for a glass lid. I then added a lot of coral frags, which have taken well and are growing nicely. After doing more water testing, I added a couple of fish, which I had to choose carefully becauise I had less room than in my other tank. Being a marine hobbyist for many years on my own, I was pleasantly surprised when Hazel showed even more interest and wanted to purchase a fish of her own for the tank. She decided on a Yellow Finned Fairy Wrasse, which, much to her delight, is doing great. After having a number of tanks over the years, each having different needs, time requirements, commitments and lessons, I am pleased with the ease and upkeep of this tank. This tank has easily accommodated a variety of soft, LPS and SPS corals. Although I have lost a few fish, I am extremely pleased with how everything in the tank looks, and I hope to keep moving onwards and upwards with all things marine. JM Marine Habitat 63

64 Docile Damselfishes > Scott Michael SCOTT MICHAEL Age: 49 Hometown: Lincoln, Nebraska, USA Full-time occupation: Photojournalist. Also involved in consulting for an aquarium maintenance business (Reef Tectonics) Marine experience: 38yrs Aquarium size: 58-US gallon aquarium at home. Also involved in maintaining over 100 marine and freshwater aquaria Favourite... fish: Wobbegongs, Epaulette Sharks, Frogfishes (aka anglerfishes), Shrimp Gobies coral: Euphyllia, Goniopora and Alvepora spp. other: Reef lobsters and decapod shrimps Specialist areas: Behaviour ecology of Elasmobranches (sharks and rays) and reef fishes One of the more rare species in the trade: the Yellow Chromis (Chromis analis). D O C I L E DAMSELFISHES MEMBERS OF THE GENUS CHROMIS 64 Marine Habitat

65 Scott Michael takes a look at one group in the genus that tends to break all the damsel stereotypes, and explains how to best keep them healthy in your home aquariums. Damsels can be deadly. How many of you have added a cute, cuddly little damsel to your tank, only to have it beat the snot out of all its fishy neighbours? When keeping Pomacentrids (damsels belong to the family Pomacentridae), you must select the species you keep, and its tank mates, very carefully. There is one group in the genus that tends to break all the damsel stereotypes, and these are the members of the genus Chromis. There is good reason for their not behaving like many of their kin; rather than establishing a territory and defending an algal turf, most of the Chromis spp. form groups which roam above the reef in search of tiny floating prey. In this article, I will discuss the best way to keep them healthy in home aquariums, for those of you who have not considered the members of this unique genus. CHROMIS BIOLOGY This is the largest damsel genus, with 75 described and a number of undescribed forms. These fishes differ from many of the other damsels in their form and behaviour. Many form large shoals (sometimes numbering in the thousands) which swim above the reef, facing into the current to capture passing zooplankton. (The term living curtain has been used to describe large shoals of chromis.) They are more streamlined than many of their confamilials, with deeply forked tails. These Groups of the Blackaxil Chromis (Chromis atripectoralis) make a stunning addition to the reef aquarium. Unlike most of the other Pomacentrids, it is possible to keep many of the smaller Chromis spp. in groups in a moderately sized tank characteristics are both adaptations that make them more fleet-of-fin an important attribute to these fishes because many Chromis spp. spend lots of time well away from shelter. They also have papillae at the back and bottom edge of the eye s orbit (i.e. orbital papillae) that are suspected of increasing the hydrodynamic efficiency of these fishes (these are also present in other zooplanktivores, including certain anthias and the fusilier damsel, Lepidozygus tapeinosoma). These small structures are thought to reduce turbulence as the fishes swim through the water. As mentioned above, they feed mainly on zooplankton, including copepods, mysids, shrimp larvae, fish eggs and algae. Some chromis species associate with stony coral colonies. They hover over these scleractinians, diving among the branches when threatened. Their activity above and within the coral branches helps to circulate fresh oxygenated water within the coral head. Their waste products can also serve as a nutrient source for the coral. A colony with resident chromis will grow faster than one which lacks them. The chromis species studied thus far deposit their eggs on rocks, dead coral, other calcareous substrate, sponge, algae and seagrass. The male engages in vigorous A pair of Bluegreen Chromis (Chromis viridis) preparing to spawn. Docile Damselfishes > Scott Michael courtship displays to attract females to his nesting site. He will spawn with numerous individuals and defend the clutch of eggs from predators until the eggs hatch (usually within 2-4 days). The larval stage lasts from days. Some chromis defend a territory during the spawning season. Males often change colour during this time. For example, the male Blue Chromis (Chromis cyanea) develops a black back and a lighter ventrum; while the male Bluegreen Chromis (C. viridis) turns yellow, with dark margins appearing on the dorsal and anal fins. Males signal jump in order to attract females to a territory where they defend a nest site. The frequency of signal jumping increases as the male s level of excitement rises. In some species, the male may rise into groups of females and lead her back to the nest site, where he rubs his abdomen on the substrate. The female will then mimic the behaviour of the male (rubbing her genital area on the same specific area), and during this process she lays her eggs on the bottom. The male follows behind her and fertilizes the eggs. The eggs, which can measure around mm, are attached to the substrate by a small stalk. Males will spawn with multiple females, guarding and fanning the clutch with his pectoral fins for approximately 3 days, at which time the eggs will hatch. CHROMIS CARE There are a number of quite colourful chromis, and some of the more popular species are a brilliant blue-green or bright blue. Unfortunately, relatively few chromis make it into the aquarium trade (although there are certainly more available now than there have ever been). One characteristic that makes the chromis among the most desirable of the damselfishes is their passive nature. Unlike most of the other Pomacentrids, it is possible to keep many of the smaller Chromis spp. in groups in a moderately sized tank (e.g. 380ltr). Group members will form a dominance hierarchy (pecking order), with subordinate members often receiving an unequal share of maltreatment from their conspecific tank mates. When the chromis group is large enough, however, the aggression will be spread out so that no one subordinate gets too much abuse. Some aquarists have suggested that the common chromis (such as the Blue, Blackaxil [Chromis atripectoralis] and Bluegreen Chromis) do best when kept in groups of six or more. If you keep them in smaller groups (of three or four), the harassment Marine Habitat 65

66 Docile Damselfishes > Scott Michael they are subjected to may cause the subordinates to hide continually and never come out to feed. Of course the size of the tank will also determine how large the chromis shoal can be. (There is also data suggesting that a lack of food can cause an increase in aggression in shoal members. More on this later.) Another desirable chromis characteristic is that they spend most of their time in the upper layers of the aquarium. This is not only aesthetically appealing, it can also mean they act as dither fishes. Many reef fishes cue in on the activity of their neighbours to determine whether it is safe to come out of hiding. By swimming about in the open water, dither fishes reassure the shyer species that it is OK to venture out into the open. Chromis among Acropora branches. All chromis are great for the reef ef aquarium, as they are not a threat to any ornamental invertebrates One negative chromis characteristic is that they can be less durable than some of the other damsels. For example, they can be more susceptible to disease and are more likely to be mistreated by aggressive tank mates. The Chromis spp. are very susceptible to Uronema an evil, virulent protoctist that can wipe out a tank full of fish if it is not dealt with immediately. Formalin and chloroquine are the two best antiparasitics to employ to deal with Uronema. The characteristic sign of this parasite on chromis is the sudden appearance of pink or reddish streaks on the side of the body. The streaks often develop into larger lesions and the host will typically die soon after they become this serious. Some chromis can be quite nervous, dashing about the aquarium or spending time in or near hiding places. With time, however, even the more nervous chromis become much bolder. When it comes to diet, chromis tend to consume zooplanktors that are smaller, relative to their body size. Feed your chromis frozen shrimp that has been finely graded, frozen cyclops (which are minute crustaceans), frozen mysid shrimp (if they are complete adults, you may have to chop these shrimp up before feeding), and crushed flake food. Like other zooplanktivores, the chromis should be fed several times a day. Ethologist Dr. Ellen Thaler suggests that aggression levels among captive chromis are higher when they are not fed often enough. She uses an automatic fish-feeder to provide food numerous times during the day. Chromis may lose their vibrant colours as their time in captivity increases. A colour-enhancing flake or frozen food can help to reduce some colour infidelity. Some species may be less colourful in the aquarium because they spend their time Juveniles of the Olive Chromis (Chromis insolata) are occasionally available to hobbyists. An adult individual is shown here. The Lined Chromis (Chromis lineatus) is an attractive species that can be kept in groups in the home aquarium. 66 Marine Habitat

67 Docile Damselfishes > Scott Michael The Paletail Chromis (Chromis xanthura) is one of the largest members of the genus, attaining a maximum length of 15cm (6ins). As it grows, the tail changes from yellow to white. This handsome, diminutive species, known as the Whitetailed Chromis (Chromis leucura) is rarely available in the trade. near the substrate in captivity (see Blue Chromis information below). All chromis are great for the reef aquarium, as they are not a threat to any ornamental invertebrates. The Caribbean Chromis (Chromis enchrysura) is a deep-water species (down to 150m/492ft) and is rare in the aquarium trade. DESIRABLE CHROMIS As mentioned before, there are relatively few species from this genus that make it into the aquarium trade. Here s a look at some details regarding a few of the more desirable in this group. I will start this brief survey with two of the most ubiquitous members of the genus in the aquarium trade: the Blackaxil Chromis (Chromis atripectoralis) and the Bluegreen Chromis (Chromis viridis). Both are a beautiful metallic green in colour, but C. atripectoralis has a dark spot on the pectoral fin axil. Both species reach a length of around 10cm (4ins). In nature they live in groups, and in some cases form shoals that can consist of over 1,000 individual fish! They usually associate with branching stony corals of the genera Acropora and Pocillopora, diving among the coral branches when they are threatened. Both C. atripectoralis and C. viridis are a perennial favourite with aquarists looking to keep a shoal of fish in their aquarium. As mentioned above, it is a good idea to house a group consisting of at least six individuals. The hardiness of the Blackaxil and Bluegreen Chromis tends to vary greatly, depending on how they are treated in the time between collection and reaching the local aquarium store. If they are mistreated, they will usually break down quickly upon arrival at the retailers. It is therefore often best to wait a week or so before purchasing newly acquired individuals, as this gives you Marine Habitat 67

68 Docile Damselfishes > Scott Michael The Blackbar Chromis (Chromis retrofasciata) is a small species (around 5cm/2ins in total length) which is often found singly hovering near the substrate. time to see if they are healthy or not. While these two species rarely bother other tank mates, they are often the target of more aggressive fishes such as dottybacks, pygmy angels or other damsels (e.g., Pomacentrus spp.). Once these species are established, they make awesome dither fishes. A species that has more recently become available, and which stays small enough to keep in a larger nano reef, is the Midget Chromis (Chromis acares). This handsome species reaches just 5.5cm (2ins) in length, and is a harmless little damselfish that can be kept in groups of three to five in a larger nano reef. They may form a dominance hierarchy, with the alpha fish bossing around its subordinate shoal mates. It may squabble with other passive zooplanktonfeeders, such as dartfishes and firefishes, but it is not likely to cause any issues, and it is no threat to any ornamental The Purple Chromis (Chromis scotti) is more blue than purple, and like most members of the genus, fares best when fed at least twice a day. invertebrates. Once it is fully acclimated, it will spend most of its time swimming in the water column looking for food. The Blackbar Chromis (Chromis retrofasciata) is a lovely little fish (maximum length of 5cm/2ins) that is found in the tropical Western Pacific. Unlike many others in the genus, it is often found singly or in small groups. A wonderful aquarium fish that is durable and not aggressive, it is prone to being picked on by more aggressive Pomacentrids and other pugnacious tank mates (e.g. dottybacks). Keep one per tank unless your aquarium is larger (55gal. or more), in which case, keep a pair or a small group. It will fight with conspecifics if the tank is too small. The Purple Chromis (Chromis scotti) is A species that has more recently become available, and which stays small enough to keep in a larger nano reef, is the Midget Chromis another Atlantic member of the genus that is most abundant on deep reef slopes (greater than 30m/100ft). The juveniles are often found in groups, which are fairly site attached. The adults are most often found singly. At all sizes, this fish tends to stay near the substrate. The juveniles are readily collected by Florida fish suppliers (they are brilliant blue). Young fish do well in the passive community tank, and while the juveniles tend to get along with one another, adults have a greater tendency to bicker with conspecifics and other Chromis spp. Another downside to the adults is that they are not as colourful as the younger fish. Vanderbilt s Chromis (Chromis vanderbilti) is a handsome fish that is often overlooked by the average hobbyist. It is a smaller fish (reaching less than 7.5cm/3ins in length) which typically occurs in small to large shoals that tend to stay within 50cm (20ins) of the reef. This attractively-marked chromis is well-suited to the captive environment (it is a great selection for the reef aquarium). Like other chromis, they are best introduced to a tank that does not contain aggressive species, unless the aquarium is very large (e.g. 180gal. or more). I hope this article will leave the average aquarist more aware of this desirable damsel genus. While many in this family can cause great distress to tank mates and aquarists alike, the chromis are welcome additions to a number of different aquarium venues. SM 68 Marine Habitat

69 DYLAN TAYLOR Hometown: Shapinsay, Orkney Islands Full-time occupation: Aquatics consultant and entrepreneur Marine experience: 17 years Aquarium size: Public aquariums. Favourite... fish: Clown Surgeon (Acanthurus lineatus) coral: Prefer to see them in the wild other: Predatory Cone. Snails (genus Conus). Specialist areas: Marine hatchery, wild collection of marine fish, import and export, public aquarium management, aquatic R+D projects, the Philippines, the Red Sea NATIONAL OCEANOGRAPHY CENTRE Time to go deeper behind the scenes of ocean life, as Dylan Taylor visits a facility of international importance. If you ever wondered who does the research we all read and write about, well wonder no more! In this article I will be looking at a facility that is of international importance in marine scientific research, and learning a little about the work that goes on there and the people involved. We hope you will find it interesting and possibly even inspiring, if you have dreams of pursuing a career in the marine sciences. I arranged a tour of the Research Aquarium with aquarium technician and animal care & welfare officer Chris Sturdy, who was kind enough to spend most of his day with me. The day started with a basic tour of the aquarium facilities and then moved on to introductions to some of the researchers, who gave me more in-depth insights into their personal research areas. Foremost among the academics I met was Professor Jörg Wiedenmann, who provided an extensive tour and explanation of the fascinating Coral Reef Laboratory and the associated research activities on which he and his colleagues are working. Chris explained that the Research Aquarium at the University of Southampton has been located in its current premises since Situated within the National Oceanography Centre (NOC) on the waterfront in Southampton, the NOC itself is wholly owned by the Natural Environmental Research Council (NERC). With all these different intertwined institutions, I had to ask Chris: what is the main purpose or function of the Research Aquarium? Marine Habitat 69

70 National Oceanography Centre > Dylan Taylor FUNCTION He explained that the aquarium has two basic functions. The first is to support the academics in the Ocean & Earth Science Academic Unit of the university; this involves maintaining the aquarium facilities and livestock on a daily basis to support the activities of any projects that are under way (think basic maintenance, system and livestock checks, feeding and cleaning, and so on). As well as maintenance, Chris also has to respond to unending requests from academics and students for livestock, tank space and facilities that will enable them to carry out future projects, while also doing his best to schedule suitable facilities for individual projects as required. Chris has one full-time co-worker in the aquarium, biology technician and boat crewperson, Bethany Wills. Part of Bethany s role is to assist in the collection of aquarium specimens that are requested for the Research Aquarium by academics. This involves the enviable task of going aboard research vessels such as the impressive RV Callista, which moors on the quayside by the aquarium when not in use. The second key function of the Research Aquarium is to serve an educational purpose. This is accomplished in several ways. There are several permanent display aquariums that house UK native marine life; these are used to introduce school field trip students to the inhabitants of their local seas, and to encourage awareness of human impact on the local marine environment. The aquarium also hosts visitors attending the annual open day of the NOC, a popular event that attracted over 3,000 visitors in Visitors attending the NOC open day can also enjoy a tour of the research vessels. (The event is free and I recommend checking dates of future open days via the NOC webpages if you would like to attend.) All first-year students Ben Hume (postdoctoral researcher) doing something interesting with coral population genetics. Sabrina Rosset, PhD student, counting microscopic coral zooxanthellae. 70 Marine Habitat Miss Danja Hoehn, PhD student, looking at population variability of Aurelia aurita. Left to right in the Coral Reef Lab: Professor Jörg, Dr Cecilia D Angelo, Cathryn Quick (masters student photobiology).

71 National Oceanography Centre > Dylan Taylor The bubbletip anemone from which the engineered red fluorescent pigment mruby was developed. Aquarium technician Chris Brown, with research vessel Callista. Professor Jörg with mruby, an engineered red fluorescent pigment from the bubbletip anemone. on Marine Biology or Oceanography degree courses at the University of Southampton now spend a week in residence at the NOC, half a day of which is spent at the Research Aquarium, where the students receive detailed instruction on identifying marine species. TOUR The first part of the tour involved Chris showing me around the basic facilities at the Research Aquarium. I learnt that the main aquarium uses seawater drawn in from the quayside, which is then filtered and disinfected using UV lamps. There are multiple recirculating systems within the aquarium, operating at differing temperatures as per the needs of the project in question, but the main seawater recirculation system features an impressively large protein skimmer with ozonation and, interestingly, a commercial-sized nitrate reduction filter from TMC containing sulphur media. Some of the aquarium systems only use synthetic seawater made up from pure reverse osmosis water; this is to ensure that the water chemistry in an experimental system is not compromised by the fluctuating natural seawater quality that is drawn from the quayside. I was introduced to a variety of student projects, one of which was investigating how well Cassiopea (upside down jellyfish) react to differing situations regarding food availability and light intensity (it appears that despite having symbiotic algae as a food source, they fare better when they are fed in addition to receiving intense lighting). For the next stop I was taken into a chilly temperature-controlled room where I met Danja Hoehn, a German PhD student preparing some Moon Jellyfish (Aurelia aurita) for a population variability study. An even colder room next door housed king crabs that Alastair Brown is studying as part of his research into the challenges overcome by animals inhabiting the world s deepest seas. Alastair s work even involves using a pressurised aquarium that is capable of exposing the king crabs to the amount of pressure they would experience at a depth of 2,000m (6,500ft), with the ability to monitor any changes in the crab s heart rate and respiration in response to increased pressure. Alastair s experiments will reveal how shallowwater animals have had to adapt during the colonisations of the deep sea that occurred following mass extinctions. Alastair s work even involves using a pressurised sed aquarium that is capable able of exposing the king crabs to the amount of pressure they would experience at a depth of 2,000m (6,500ft) Readers of Marine Habitat will, of course, be particularly interested in the Tropical Aquarium/ Coral Reef Laboratory that I was introduced to by Professor Jörg Wiedenmann. This sub-tour started not in the Research Aquarium but in the lobby area of the NOC building, where an impressive aquarium houses a diverse collection of coral reef creatures that readers would immediately be familiar with, as many are commonly kept as home aquarium specimens. This tank is actually more than just a display; it houses corals that can be used as parent or donor corals for experimental work through fragging. This allows Jörg to carry out long-term work using individual colonies that have already been studied and analysed at the molecular level, revealing details of, for example, the pigments that the corals contain. The aquarium also serves an educational purpose by providing a living display of organisms relevant to many of the students passing through NOC. One of Jörg s key research areas is coral fluorescence and pigmentation, and the aquarium actually features a button that students can Marine Habitat 71

72 National Oceanography Centre > Dylan Taylor press which temporarily turns off the white lighting over the display. The blue lights remain on and blue light-induced fluorescence becomes visible in the glowing green and red fluorescence that emanates from corals and anemones in the tank possessing the relevant pigments. Looking at the workings of the aquarium, the thing that stood out above anything else was the number of LED light strips that were mounted above the tank. The total wattage for lighting amounted to 370 watts, a low figure considering the size and selection of corals in the tank. Jörg estimated that LED lighting had allowed around a 40% reduction in power consumption compared with the metal halide and fluorescent lighting that had previously been in place. Interestingly, Jörg has had some interaction with TMC on this coral display lighting. Being an expert in photo biology, the support has gone in both directions, with Jörg providing TMC with feedback aimed at optimising the lighting based on his own empirical experimentation and observations gained through using their latest lighting units. For your own reference, just take a look in the pictures at the amount of LED strips that are installed above this aquarium, and consider swapping over from metal halide or other sources... Microalgae cultures in the Research Aquarium Lab. Professor Jörg in the lab, explaining some of his research. ABOVE Commercial protein skimmer and nitrate reduction filter on the Research Aquarium main livestock system....jörg providing TMC with feedback aimed at optimising the lighting based on his own empirical experimentation and observations... So, as well as having a nice coral tank, what happens in the Coral Lab itself? Lots of things basically, some easier to understand than others, so I ll get the most technical one out of the way and start with the study of fluorescence. Corals contain fluorescent pigments that can emit cyan, green, yellow or red light. They are responsible for many of the bright colours of corals and their relatives. Studying these pigments in the coral lab, Jörg has been involved in research which has shown that fluorescent pigments play an important role in allowing corals to control light levels within their tissues. In shallow water, pigments were seen to be used to shield the coral s symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) from excessive light, while in deeper water the fluorescent proteins are thought to assist the zooxanthellae in making use of the lower amounts of bluish light available. Just like us getting a tan when exposed to sunshine, shallow water corals can also become more colourful by producing increased amount of fluorescent proteins. Aside from understanding corals better, fluorescent proteins from corals at the lab are being used in advanced biomedical 72 Marine Habitat

73 National Oceanography Centre > Dylan Taylor Automated ozone generation and monitoring system. Corals in a nutrient exposure experiment. Plastic holding tanks in Coral Reef Lab experiments. The Coral Reef Lab has space for a few helpful fish. research. This subject gets complicated quickly, but suffice to say that fluorescent proteins have become very important for studying microscopic details in fields such as the study of gene activity in living cells and the testing of new anti-cancer drugs. The way this essentially works is that the fluorescent proteins can be transferred into other organisms and used to visually track movements and processes at a molecular level in ways that are not possible using alternative means. Aside from fluorescence, work at the Coral Reef Laboratory also includes themes such as research into understanding how tropical reef corals respond to stress, studies into the effects of nutrient pollution from man-made sources on coral decline, unravelling the mechanisms of coral bleaching, and understanding how some corals have adapted to high water temperatures in places like the Persian Gulf and the Red Sea. I really can t cover it all here, but there is a website that aims to tell you more at Some of Jörg s work covers subjects of particular interest to marine aquarists, such as how corals react to elevated nutrient levels a common situation in reef tanks with nitrate and phosphate build-up. We discussed the possibility of another, more in-depth article for Marine Habitat, looking purely at the Coral Reef Laboratory, which could perhaps focus on what the findings of this research could I can tell you that I was shown large healthy coral colonies that had grown under the kind of nutrientrich conditions that aquarists try to avoid Professor Jörg Wiedenmann with the lobby coral display tank at the NOC. tell aquarists and commercial coral growers looking to optimise their setups. For example, I can tell you that I was shown large healthy coral colonies that had grown under the kind of nutrient-rich conditions that aquarists try to avoid. Jörg explained a little about why this can happen with certain coral species under certain conditions, but it is a complex subject that I will save for a future article. THE LABS As well as seeing the tanks, labs and livestock, I was shown around some of the laboratories which academics such as Jörg use to delve deeper into the mysteries of marine organisms. These days a lot of marine biology research is carried out at the molecular level, and I was shown around laboratories that analyse DNA, isolate and engineer biochemical molecules, and accurately measure seawater chemistry parameters with far more detail and accuracy than hobbyist test kits are capable of. One of the reasons that the Research Aquarium at NOC is such a valuable resource is that these cutting-edge laboratory facilities, the aquarium, the aquarium staff and the research vessel are all on the same site, providing access to a full spectrum of marine research tools and opportunities. CONCLUSION It just remains to thank everyone who I met at NOC during my visit. I hope to return in the future to report on how the facility and the research develop over time. There are ongoing plans for future expansions and projects, some of which relate to corals and are already in the construction phase, so expect to hear more from the NOC as time goes by. DT Marine Habitat 73

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