The Agility Coach Notebooks

Transcription

1 s Small Spaces Volume Issues through By Kathy Keats

2 An ounce of action is worth a ton of theory. Friedrich Engels This is the second volume of The Agility Coach s. Each set has four interesting sequences full of challenges. Although suggestions are made for execution, it is impossible to cover all the various systems and possibilities. Add your own ideas, flair and techniques. The main goal of the is to provide challenges and options, not to judge correct handling, as there are too many variables with dog and handler teams. Action is what produces results, so get out there and go for it! The Agility Coach for Large Spaces assumes all equipment is available and a minimum 0 x 0 training space. Be active in your learning process. Draw, write and be involved with what you learn from each session. Visit for online agility programs, coaching, sport psychology, peak performance, motivation and free downloads. ABOUT KATHY Kathy Keats is a world class competitor and professional coach. She and her dog Mojo were Canada s first ever World Agility Champions. Kathy has successfully competed in basketball, dog agility and sheepdog trials. In the various disciplines she has won multiple local, regional, national and international competitions, multiple individual awards, and has represented Canada at a world championship in the three different sports. Kathy has also represented Canada as a coach at the international level. Kathy is a graduate of the National Coaching Institute. She is a previous managing editor of Clean Run Magazine. All material herein is copyright to Kathy Keats and The Agility Coach.

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4 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. SET Sequence (# - #) This opening has the potential for an off-course tunnel. You can either run with your dog and be sure to decelerate slightly and pull between # and # or lead out closer to # and use position/false turn/verbal to bring your dog to you from #. Be careful that when you go to # not to bring your arm up in a sudden movement as you might flip your dog into the tunnel. Sequence (# - #) Jumps # to # are the main challenge. If you have an independent A-frame you have many more options. Once you send to # you could run ahead and do a front cross between # and # and then rear cross on the take-off side of # and again at #. Another option is to get to the left wing of # and after supporting the # jump, use a false turn/drop shoulder or verbal to bring your dog to #. Be sure to be on the landing side of # so the dog squares up to # and doesn t jump into you or get pushed to # while over the bar. This line can be awkward and sets a line to the tunnel, so be aware, but is an option if you can t get far away from the A-frame. If you can get away from the A-frame, you may also be able to get to a front cross between # and #, if not you just do a rear cross at the take-off side of #. SET Sequence (# - #) You can lead out or run with to start this sequence. You can turn right or left at # and at # and you can handle from the take-off or landing side of #, so lots of options. Your choices will be determined by whether your dog will be better off with straighter approaches and fewer full wraps, or if V Issue Page

5 Volume Issue your dog will gain more of an advantage with shorter distances and tight wraps. You also want to consider what turns will hurt you the most so which jumps do you want to be in position to better handle the turn? For example, dogs that will really shoot out of the tunnel may need you on the take-off side of #. Dogs that will jump long at # may need you on the landing side. Once you send to the tunnel, if you go to the landing side of #, you can bring your dog over # with a drop shoulder/false turn/verbal. When your dog is committed to #, move on toward #, continuing to show your right side to the dog. To turn your dog left at #, you can do another front cross or do a rear cross. If you handle from the take-off side of #, front cross between the tunnel and #, and then pull to #. From this side it is probably the easiest to turn your dog to the right at # with a front cross or post turn. No matter how you handle the jumps leading to #, you can probably turn your dog left or right at # using a front cross or a rear cross. The main question is how sharp an angle your dog will have on the approach to the A-frame and how well he wraps around standards. What are the trade offs of a fast straight approach versus a shorter line? SET Sequence (# - #) This opening is easier if you are able to lead out to the left wing of # or at least between the standards of # and #. From here, release your dog over # and then turn to signal #. As your dog commits to #, move across to the left wing of # and signal the gap. When your dog is committed to the gap and the correct side of # you have two choices. One is to take a step across the landing side of # to do a front cross to go to # and take away the tunnel, or just pull your dog to # and then do a rear cross on the takeoff side of # to signal the tunnel. Sequence (# - #) Once your dog is committed to the tunnel, you can either head to a front cross between # and # or simply pull to # and # and then do a rear V Issue Page

6 Volume Issue cross at the take-off side of #. When your dog is committed to # you can slight across to the landing side of # to do a front cross and tighten the turn to #. You can pull or false turn to # and but unless you have a small dog the turn tends to be wide. You would then do a rear cross at #. Keep your dog on your left for # - #. Set This set is a flowing sequence with several figure s put together which you can handle with front cross or rear crosses. Enjoy! I do not try to dance better than anyone else. I only try to dance better than myself. Mikhail Baryshnikov V Issue Page

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8 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. SET Sequence (# - #) The main intent of this sequence is to get you and your dog used to moving around the double jump. Try the opening both with a front cross between # and # and then try it again using a rear cross on the take-off side of # so you feel comfortable with both moves. A judge can force you into a situation where you have to do certain types of crosses. The diagonal line from # to # tests your dog s ability to judge angled jumps. To end the sequence you can do a front cross between # and #, and if you leave as your dog is committing to # and trust him, you may be able to make it to another front cross between # and # so that you can pick your dog up on your right side to go to # easily. Another option is to simply pull your dog around the 0 from # to # and then do a rear cross on the take-off side of #. Both in this case and if you aren t able to make it to the front cross between # and #, you must either do a rear cross on the flat or use a verbal to turn your dog to #. You might get away with a small false turn and then kick him to # if you are far enough up the line, but if you run too hard and you are only even with your dog, you ll send him long over # and he ll miss #. SET Sequence (# - #) In this sequence, a small lead-out is helpful if your dog will commit to # even though the jump is at a difficult angle. If you can lead out, you can do a front cross between # and #. You then have three choices:. Front cross on the outside of the 0 (take-off side of #).. Front cross on the inside of the 0 (landing side of #). V Issue Page

9 Volume Issue. Pull around 0 and then do a rear cross on the take-off side of #. All of these options have pros and cons. The front cross on the outside of the 0 is tricky to execute and can be difficult to get to. The front cross on the inside creates a bit of a confusing signal to the dog as to whether or not you are going straight across the box or want your dog to jump # on a diagonal. You can help this by positioning yourself on the right wing (dog s perspective on approach) of #. The rear crosses may be slower for some dogs. Sequence (# - #) Once again your dog faces a diagonal line, great for working his jumping awareness. You have the same three options to end the sequence: do a front cross on the outside (take-off side of #) of the 0, a front cross on the landing side of #, or a pull and rear cross on the take-off side of #. I would eliminate the front cross on the take-off side of # as it will likely slice your dog across the double jump too much so he potentially misses #, but it will depend slightly on how you ve set the course. A simple pull to a rear cross on the take-off side of # is a good option. Your dog s approach to # will be fairly flat because of the 0 required to miss the off-course # jump so his line is directly to # as long as you don t over do your handling. Be careful not to pull too hard and then push him to # while he s still over #. The landing side front cross is also an option, making sure I was far enough over to the left wing of # that my position helped indicate the # jump and not the off-course #/# jump. Some dogs will benefit from the handler driving to a front cross and also this handling creates a rounder line which may be better for some dogs. SET Sequence (# - #) This set is simply a series of figure s that is best handled with front crosses. This drill is to prepare you for Set. V Issue Page

10 SET Volume Issue The first version of handling this sequence is what I call hard core front cross handling. The other version I will present will use more rear crosses. You can mix and match the handling based on what you are able to get to. Hard Core Front Cross Handling Lead out between # and #. Do a lead-out push/pivot to go to #, the line should be okay because your dog will jump a bit longer over the double. Wrap your dog to the right at # with a front cross and then slide across to another front cross between # and #. Do the 0 with your dog on your left and do either a take-off side or a landing side front cross at # to go to the # double. Once your dog is committed to # get ahead so you can do a front cross between # and #. Wrap your dog hard to the right at # with a front cross and run like heck for the finish! Whew! Very aggressive handling strategy! Variations can include (not necessarily all in the same repetition: A left turn at # A rear cross on the take-off side of # A rear cross on the take-off side of # A rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn your dog left Run like heck from # to # with your dog on your right, drive to # and turn you dog left at # with a pull You could also potentially do a rear cross on the take-off or landing side of # but that would likely be awkward except with a driving, long jumping dog. Enjoy! I was pushed by myself because I have my own rule, and that is that every day I run faster, and try harder. Wilson Kipketer V Issue Page

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12 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. SET Sequence (# - #) I prefer to take my dog to a tunnel so that my dog is on the outside. In other words, he can t see the other entrance. In this example, I would start with my dog on my right and drive him to the tunnel entrance, as opposed to starting with my dog on my left and pulling him to the tunnel entrance. To go to #, you can handle two ways. One way is to meet your dog near the tunnel exit and drive him over # so that he carries long to the correct side of the # jump while you stay on the landing side of #. Pick him up on your left side and keep your line tight on to # (don t drift off toward the teeter before he lands from # or he ll jump toward you and have a bad line to #) but be sure not to drive in too close to # once he is committed to # or you will throw your dog off-course over #. Once he is on a good line for # aim to run just past the entrance of the teeter. The # to # pattern is the main challenge. You can handle this from the take-off or landing side of # and can also turn left or right at #. Handling from the landing side of # is very dependent on how the course is set as even a slight adjustment on the angle of # and # make a big difference. If you handle from the landing side of #, it is a simple serpentine, although a front cross after the serpentine between # and # if you are able to get there makes it safer as the off-course tunnel opening is looming when your dog turns right at #. Handling from the take-off side of # is great if you can get there. Do a front cross between # and # and as your dog commits to # move across to the far right wing of #. Call your dog over # with a false turn or drop shoulder early so he doesn t shoot into the tunnel. As he lands from # pick him up on your right side to go to the # tunnel, treating # to the # entrance as a push-through. If you d prefer to turn your dog left at #, instead of moving across to the right wing of #, stay on the left wing V Issue Page

13 Volume Issue and as your dog commits to #, slip through the gap between # and # toward the tunnel and just wrap your dog back around the left standard toward you. You can either continue to do a post turn (possibly using a false turn to bring your dog through the gap) to take your dog to the tunnel on your right side (very safe but possibly slower) or do a front cross to go to the tunnel with your dog on your left (not as safe but possibly faster). Whether to turn right or left at # will depend on your team. Turning your dog to the right at # presents the off-course tunnel opening and is a slightly longer path but the dog has a smooth line. Wrapping your dog back to the inside is a safer route but a tougher type of turn for some dogs. The last two jumps require you to pay attention to the line. You can shape the line from the exit of the tunnel by meeting your dog at the exit and setting his line with a front cross. You could also get to the landing side of # to pick your dog up on your right to take him to #. If your dog is not a big jumper and runs with you well, you may simply be able to run the ending, perhaps using a small signal to keep him with you so he doesn t push to the backside of #. SET Sequence (# - #) This type of sequence is usually best handled from the front so you are able to be in position for the more technical maneuvers. The place you want to be in position to handle is the pull-through between # and #. Usually this pattern is not done well with a rear cross as the dog tends to carry a bit over # unless the dog has a great collection cue or is normally handled in a rear cross style of handling. However, the line has several lead changes so in this case a rear cross may work as the dog will be fairly easy to get into collection. Ideally, you want to plan your cross so that your dog is on your left going over #. To achieve this, put your dog on your left to start and pull your dog from the teeter to #. Use a drop shoulder/false turn/verbal to bring your dog in enough to get to the correct side of #. Get ahead as your dog commits to #, making sure to keep contact so that he doesn t launch out over # and miss #. Get to the right wing of # to do a false turn or drop V Issue Page

14 Volume Issue shoulder and if you have a collection cue, use it just before # so you can get a good turn to #. If you can send your dog to #, you could layer # to get ahead for a front cross between # and #. Otherwise you will just run with your dog and use a signal such as a false turn or verbal to keep him with you as you go to the correct end of the tunnel. If your dog jumps a bit long at # based on this set, it will actually help your line to the correct end of the tunnel, so don t overwork the turn from # to #. Make sure to give your dog room at the tunnel so that you don t crowd him into the wrong tunnel opening. Sequence (# - #) There are three main ways to handle this sequence:. From the landing side of # (dog turning right at #). From the take-off side of # (dog turning right at #). Turning left at # Landing side of # The main thing to watch handling from this side is you are doing a pushthrough between # and # at an awkward angle, so you MUST get to the right wing (from the dog s perspective on approach) of # to be in position to push through to the correct side of #. If you are behind at all (at the left standard of #, the standard with the # marker), you won t be able to get the collection and push your dog through the gap. Get to the landing side of #, once your dog is over #, call him to you over # with a drop shoulder/false turn, positioning yourself just off the right standard of # in the gap and get him on your right side to push him through the gap. Take-off side of # Do a front cross between # and #, then slide across for a threadle between # and # using whatever signal you would use, such as a false turn, to bring your dog through a gap. As your dog commits through the gap, send him to # from your left side and do a rear cross to turn him to # and #. Theoretically you could bring your dog through the gap on your right hand (front cross) and then keep him on your right and do a full post turn to bring him around to #, but that uses a lot of distance. V Issue Page

15 Turning dog left at # Volume Issue Theoretically you can also turn your dog left at #. Although the distance is much longer, once the one turn is made it is all acceleration from that point to the end. Worth tryiing for a comparison. SETS & Both these sets have similar challenges. Set has several challenges with passing tunnels and jumps. Set has an interesting push-through start (yes, the number is in the right place). Enjoy! Age wrinkles the body. Quitting wrinkles the soul. Douglas Macarthur V Issue Page

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17 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) You can handle this opening from the take-off side of # or from the takeoff side of # if you have strong lead-out skills. Take-off side of # Position yourself near the left wing (from the dog s perspective on approach to # and the side the # numbered marker is on). Call your dog to your right side and signal #. From here you have two options:. Pull your dog around the 0, send to # and rear cross on the take-off side of # to send him to #.. Do a front cross on the landing side of #, outside the right standard of # (the standard without a numbered marker) and pull to #. Take-off side of # This requires strong lead-out communication. Signal your dog to come over #. As he lands from # and is clearly staying on the correct side of #, rotate your shoulders so your right side turns to signal #. Pull your dog around the 0 and when he is committed to the backside of # (in other words, he won t go through the gap between # and #), turn to # to signal the jump and also start to move toward #. Whichever of the options above you choose still allows you to turn your dog left or right at #. Turning left at # is a slightly long path but straighter line to the tunnel so this will depend on your dog. If you turn left at # you will most likely use a rear cross as a front cross would be difficult to get to between # and #. If you turn your dog to the right at # you will use a V Issue Page

18 Volume Issue pull to a front cross so your dog is on your right side going to #. Sequence (# - #) This is fairly straight forward. You can do a front/blind cross at the tunnel exit to change sides and then either pull to # or do another front cross between # and #. The other possibility is to do a rear cross either on the take-off side of # or #. This may depend a bit on how the course has been set. Generally speaking, you won t get a great turn from # to # with a rear cross unless your dog is particularly adept at a collected rear cross. SET Sequence (# - #) The easiest way to think of this sequence is as a box where you are practicing pull-throughs/threadles. At # and # you do have an option to turn either way, but if you think of a box of jumps, it makes sense to do pull-throughs as the wraps will take much longer. Lead out to the take-off side of #. Call your dog to you and then signal the correct side of # once he is committed to coming to you through the gap. The two big mistakes people usually make on this is turning too soon and sending their dog off-course over the backside of the jump or turning too late and having the dog stare at them for precious tenths of a second. However, in this case being a bit late only costs you time, being early is an off-course. Keep flowing around the box calling your dog in between # and #. Make sure he stays collected when you release him to #. If you can get him to wrap the right standard of #, the off-course unnumbered jump never comes into play and the pull-through is easy. The pattern breaks from pull-throughs to a 0 between # and #. It makes the most sense to keep your dog on your left to go to the tunnel, as a front cross is very difficult to get to between # and # unless you are very quick. At # you can turn left or right. Once you send your dog to the tunnel, you can run ahead and do a front cross between # and # to tighten the turn at the double. You could then go either way at # but a rear cross at # to turn your dog right and then get your dog through the gap would be V Issue Page

19 Volume Issue tricky, so likely you would wrap your dog left at #, pick your dog up on your left on the landing side of # to go to #. This is a shorter path to # if your dog is good at the wrap. If your dog jumps a bit long at #, this even will help the turn to the left at #. If you decide to pull your dog to # from #, you may need to ask for collection just before # or even use a false turn to bring your dog to #. From this position it makes more sense to turn your dog right at # as you are in better position for the pull-through. This is an easier turn for your dog, but a bit longer path and if your dog isn t good at collecting, he may jump long over #, making the pull-through more difficult. Often longer jumping dogs are better with the first option of turning left at # as it keeps them in collection. Handling decisions are often based on give and take. Don t make a handling choice based on one turn such as left or right at # because if you want to turn right at # but to set it up you will lose too much time at the turn at #, then it doesn t make sense to do so. Good training so that all the options are available to you, and knowing your dog inside and out are critical in your handling decisions. SET Sequence (# -#) Stay on the landing side of # and push your dog to the backside/take-off side of #. Set him up at # so his angle throws him to the correct side of #. The line from # to # throws your dog at the wrong end of the tunnel. You may need to ask your dog for some collection or at least make sure he knows the turn is coming on the approach to # so you don t end up creating a call-off situation. Which way you decide to turn at # will determine how you handle the line from # to #. There are pros and cons to turning both ways. Turning left at # is a bit longer turn and line, but the line is smoother and requires fewer lead changes which may help some dogs maintain their speed and keep bars up. Turning right at # keeps the dog in collection with a few fussy turns, but is a shorter distance and keeps the dog on a very tight, collected line. The faster way should be to turn right at #. V Issue Page

20 Volume Issue If you decide to turn left at #, simply keep your dog on your right out of the tunnel and then wrap him to the left at #. You can either pick him up on your left side at # going to # and then pull or use a false turn/drop shoulder to bring him to #, or you can wrap him left at #, keeping him on your right and then do a take-off side rear cross at # to turn him to #. If you turn right at #, you can handle it from either the take-off or landing side of #. As soon as your dog has committed to the tunnel, get to the landing side of # so you can do a front cross between # and # to pick your dog up on your left side after he takes #. If you stay on the takeoff side of #, you will treat the # to # sequence as a series of pullthroughs/threadles. If you are quick, you can take your dog up to # after the cross and then step through the gap between # and # while asking for your dog to wrap the right standard of #. Pick your dog up on the turn (which side you use will depend on your style of handling) and signal the gap between # and #. Now you are in great position to control the turn from # to # as you are working from the landing side of #. Set This set intrigues me as I find it very interesting to experiment with turning left and right at both # and #. Once again, having a good wrap is an important skill. Try timing these sequences from turning at # to # using different combinations of the turns to see what works best for you. Enjoy! Achievement is not always success, while reputed failure often is. It is honest endeavor, persistent effort to do the best possible under any and all circumstances. Orison Swett Marden V Issue Page

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22 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) The main choice of this sequence is which side to handle the A-frame from, because that will determine your handling for the other portions of the sequence. To open the sequence, you can handle from the take-off or landing side of #. My preference is to handle from the landing side of # because then I can control the turn from # to # and give my dog a clear view of the weave entry. However, you can treat # to # like a pull-through, using a pull, false turn or drop shoulder to pull your dog through the gap and then rear cross to stay on the left side of the poles. The dog may jump a touch longer over # and many dogs don t drive into a threadle with as much speed. Once your dog is committed to the poles, you have two options:. Pull to the tunnel and handle on the west side of the A-frame or.... Do a front cross at the end of the weave poles and handle from the east side of the A-frame. Pull to the tunnel This requires two main skills. Your dog must be able to work with lateral distance away from you and your dog must understand to turn out of the tunnel toward you to the same side he last saw you on (unless you did a rear cross he could read). If so, you simply pull to the tunnel (pull hard, or false turn) and before he is in the tunnel, but is committed, you leave to get to the other end of the A-frame (running on the west side of the A-frame) to V Issue Page

23 Volume Issue support the # jump and be in position to front cross to bring him from # to the A-frame. At the end of the A-frame, signal the tunnel and repeat the skill again to go to # and through to the end. Front cross at the end of the poles This handling means you are going to handle from the east side of the A-frame. You must step hard to the tunnel when your dog comes out of the poles so he will commit early to the tunnel allowing you to leave sooner. If you are quick you might be able to front/blind cross at the end of the tunnel. If not, you will have to pick your dog up on your left side out of the tunnel and take him to # with an immediate rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn him to the A-frame. Stay fairly decelerated or you will throw your dog long over # and get a poor turn to the A-frame. At the end of the A-frame turn your dog to the # tunnel with a verbal or physical signal. There are a variety of signals handlers use: step across and drive the dog in, a rear cross type signal, a verbal directional, and a flip of the arm are all examples. Use what is appropriate for you. Since you are staying on the east side of the A-frame again, you can handle the same way or since you are closer to the tunnel, you may be able to get across the exit of the tunnel with a front/blind cross to pick your dog up on your right side out of the tunnel for the finish. SET Sequence (# - #) This opening sequence is fairly straight forward. Lead out past # and front cross between # and #. When your dog is landing from # and committing to the tunnel, you should already be leaving to get to the tunnel exit. Simply pick your dog up on your right side to signal the tunnel and then rear cross once your dog is committed to the poles. Theoretically you could handle the opening using lateral distance in a similar fashion to the previous set by staying on the west side of the A-frame, sending to # and calling to #, but it is risky and doesn t really gain you any advantage in this case because you have time to get to the exit of the tunnel. V Issue Page

24 Sequence (# - #) Volume Issue The challenge of this set is the tight turn at the double to go to the A-frame. You can pull and then do a rear cross at the entrance of the A-frame or you can get a head start at the weave poles so you can do a front cross between # and the # A-frame. The main skill is teaching your dog to turn over the double. Try it both ways so your dog gets comfortable with the turn regardless of your handling. SET Sequence (# -#) Asking for a wrap at a double is always nerve wracking. The way to become confident is to practice it. You can either be at the double physically asking for a tight turn or you can hang back and let your position tell your dog the turn is coming. You can handle # to # from either the take-off or landing side of #. If you handle from the take-off side of #, # to # is a threadle with a false turn or drop shoulder and then you simply pull your dog around from # into the poles. If you handle from the landing side of #, you need to get to the landing side of # before your dog so you are in position to push through between # and # to get your dog to the take-off side of #. Then send to the poles and rear cross once the dog is committed to the poles. If you handle this way, you definitely must ask for the turn at the # double with only position because if you are anywhere near the # double, you won t make it back to position on the landing side of #. Sequence (# - #) This sequence is fairly straight forward. Handle from the east side of the A-frame. Your main decision will be whether to handle # to # as a series of threadles or push-throughs. This will depend largely on your dog and you although my inclination is to do it as push-throughs because you get control of the first turn from the weave poles to the # jump and maintain control of the turns on the landing side. V Issue Page

25 Set Volume Issue This set is fast to open your dog up after a tight, technical sequence in the previous set. Enjoy! Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe V Issue Page

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27 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) This first sequence has two purposes. One is to work on your dog bypassing tunnel entrances. The second is that once your dog is patterned, can you break him out of the pattern by going into the tunnel. Beware of the # and # jumps which are angled just enough to make the tunnel enticing. You will either need to beat him to the # tunnel and do a front cross between # and # or pull him into the # tunnel from enough distance away that you can get to the exit of the tunnel and drive him to #. This shape of tunnel tends to slow dogs down enough for you to get there. A variation on this exercise is to do half a loop (# to #) - tunnel - half loop (# to # again) - tunnel -full speed circle (starting at # and going all the way around the tunnel in a full circle) and see if he will bypass the tunnel after going into it twice. SET Sequence (# - #) You need to plan your opening so that you can be in position for the pushthrough at #. Get your dog going with speed into the tunnel so that he will carry out far enough to end up on the correct side of #. Don t worry about getting too tight of a turn because the tunnel shape may slow him down a fair amount so he may not carry out of the tunnel as far as you expect. Ideally, be at the standard of # as your dog takes #. Drive forward to kick him long over # to the backside. Keep pressure on your dog s line by running straight at the southern standard of # yourself (the standard V Issue Page

28 Volume Issue with the numbered # marker on it). From #, you can keep your dog on your right going to # and then do a rear cross on the take-off side of #. You then either pull your dog around the right standard of # with a front cross or post turn to wrap your dog to the tunnel or you can rear cross again to turn your dog left to the outside of the course. This is a longer path but for some dogs will be faster as they maintain better speed based on the approach. Another variation on this is after the push-through, do a quick front cross on the landing side of # as a change of side to go to # to be in better position for the wrap to the inside. In most cases, you will do a rear cross at the tunnel entrance to get the turn to the # jump. This shouldn t be too much of an issue as the shape of the tunnel should help the dog turn the correct way. The only exception to this handling is if you do a post turn to wrap your dog right at #, and keep your dog on your left going to the tunnel. Then you would pull him out of the tunnel to #. The push-through at # keeps you locked back in that area, which prevents getting in more front crosses to handle # and # unless you are much faster than your dog. SET Sequence (# -#) In this opening it is smart to try to plan for the turn out of the tunnel. It is at an awkward angle and the tunnel will encourage your dog to turn the wrong way. As a result, you may decide to give up controlling the turn from # to # in exchange for the turn out of the tunnel. One thought is to lead out to the landing side of #, signal # and as your dog heads to #, you head up the line to get position for a front cross between # and the # tunnel. This will allow you to be in decent position to pull your dog out of the tunnel to #. Another option is to front cross between # and #, work the turn a bit more between # and #, send to the tunnel basically from # and run for the exit. Pick your dog up on your left side and drive to #, doing a rear V Issue Page

29 Volume Issue cross on the take-off side of #. The downside to the rear cross is that you may lose your dog into the tunnel after # unless you have a very good go on cue as you will be a bit behind. If there is no way you can keep up with your dog, you may be forced to layer the tunnel. A variation on this handling if you are quick enough is to do a blind cross at the tunnel exit so that you pick your dog up on your right side out of the tunnel, which helps prevent the off-course tunnel further on. Sequence (# - #) In most cases, after driving hard to push your dog onto the # jump past the tunnel entrance, most handlers will either use a pull, verbal or false turn to draw their dogs in after the # jump, and then rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn their dogs to #. The odd handler may get to a front cross between # and #. Theoretically, you could handle from the landing side of #, calling your dog to you as if # was the middle jump of the serpentine, but the odds are much greater of your dog missing # with that much lateral distance. Set The challenges in this set are: Which way to turn at #? How to get your dog to turn the correct way out of the tunnel, with a rear cross at the entrance or a pull at the exit or a pick them up at the exit with a drive and rear cross? Which way to turn at #? Enjoy! Action is the foundational key to all success. Pablo Picasso V Issue Page

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31 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) This set challenges your weave and teeter entries. After the # tunnel, you can either front cross on the take-off or landing side of # (slightly dependent on how accurately the course is set). If you do your cross on the take-off side of #, you will get a tight line from the tunnel but your dog s weave pole entries must be good and you need to be careful not to push on him just as he is over the # bar to shape his weave pole entry or he may take a bar. If you do the cross on the landing side of #, you may have a wider turn out of the tunnel, but you have better control of the weave pole entrance. The final option is to pull out of the tunnel, drive your dog to the poles and rear cross at the weave pole entrance. You may need to shape your dog s line a bit to the teeter by running straight out from the poles a few steps to accelerate him forward and then turn him to the teeter. He may not have much speed leading to the teeter, so it will be a good time to assess his understanding of how to perform a teeter. If he runs to the end without hesitation, you know he understands the teeter pretty well! You get a nice fast run to the end, beware that the tunnel is not pointed directly at # so make sure you drive hard and don t let him hesitate or look at you as he comes out of the tunnel wondering where to go next. SET Sequence (# - #) This set tests weave pole entrances again but also looks at teeter and weave V Issue Page

32 Volume Issue pole exits. After #, you must get your dog to the backside/take-off side of #. You can do a front cross at the end of the poles and then push your dog to the correct side of #, you can pull your dog to you out of the poles and rear cross on the flat to turn him to #. Theoretically, you can also use a blind cross at the end of the poles. Imagine there are only poles so you get a sharp turn out of the poles. If your dog weaves the th pole, he will break the plane of #. If you have a running teeter, the tunnel is looming straight ahead so be ready to call you dog to # as soon as your dog is correct for your criteria on the teeter. If your dog can perform the teeter independently, you can leave a bit early and get a front cross in between # and #. Otherwise, you will pull to the poles and either do a rear cross at the entrance to the poles or pick your dog up on your left side and drive to #, doing a rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn your dog to #. In most cases, turning your dog left at # will be faster as it is a shorter line and your dog will probably approach # from a fairly straight line because the angle he will jump # will throw him out a bit. SET This sequence can be done in a front or rear cross style. Try both to work on both skills. Examples are:. Front cross between # and # or rear cross on take-off side of #.. Front cross between # and # or rear cross on the take-off side of #.. Front cross between # and # or rear cross on the take-off side of #. The main challenge is deciding how to handle # to #. You can just pull to the poles, run to the end and drive your dog to # and then either pull around to the right (south) if there is enough room or rear cross to wrap him back to the left. You could front cross or blind cross at the end of the poles to get your dog on your right. The other option is to do a front or rear cross at the entrance of the poles but that can make the entrance tricky for the dog, although it puts you on the east side of the poles which makes going to # easy. V Issue Page

33 Set Volume Issue The challenges in this set are: Which side do you handle the # and # poles from? Which way do you turn your dog at #? The black numbers are an alternative ending to make it a bit more tricky. Enjoy! Don t be afraid to fail. Don t waste energy trying to cover up failure. Learn from your failures and go on to the next challenge. It s OK to fail. If you re not failing, you re not growing. Unknown V Issue Page

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35 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) There are four main ways to handle the A-frame:. Pull to the A-frame, keep the A-frame on your right and run to the end, drive your dog to # off the A-frame on your right side and rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn him to # and pick him up on your left. This is a good option, although you may be a bit behind for the discrimination.. Same as above but do a front/blind cross at the exit of the A-frame as a change of side to put your dog on your left to go to #. This option puts you a bit further ahead going to # but a front cross may cost you time and some handling systems don t allow blind crosses.. Do a front cross between # and the # A-frame. Position and timing will be important as well as the dog s verbal discrimination skills to get the correct obstacle. Be careful not to get caught on the tunnel after your cross.. Pull to the A-frame and do a rear cross at the entrance to the A-frame. If you start your rear cross too soon you may push your dog into the tunnel. May be difficult to get around the tunnel and may slow dog down on the A-frame. Once you have your dog over #, you can pull your dog into the correct tunnel entrance. A front cross is an option but it opens up more choices for the dog and you don t gain anything in particular doing a front cross other than perhaps some speed from driving forward. V Issue Page

36 Volume Issue You can handle # to # as a serpentine if you stay on the take-off side of # but you will have to do a rear cross at the end of the serpentine to turn your dog to #. The other options are to do a front cross between # and # and then pull to # or to pull from the tunnel to # and then do a rear cross on the flat between # and #. SET Sequence (# - #) There are several interesting challenges in this set. To begin, you must decide how to get your dog to the backside of #. If you take the shorter path to the east side of the jump, the tunnel looms. This can be done as a push-through to the take-off side of #. You can then drive to # and do a rear cross or you can do a quick front cross on the landing side of # so you can go to # with your dog on your left. Another option is to stand on the take-off side of # and treat the gap between # and # as a threadle. Call your dog to you over # with a false turn or drop shoulder and then when he is almost to you turn and put him over # and drive to # with your dog on your left. If you take the longer path to the west to get to #, your dog must turn more than 0 degrees around the standard but you may end up with a slightly better approach to the double. This would be a simple post turn, keeping your dog on your left from # to # and on to #. It makes the most sense to turn your dog right at # as going left is a very long path and because there is another tight turn at the end of the A-frame, you can t make the distance up in speed. The only reason to go left would be if you wanted to give your dog a straight approach to the A-frame due to a physical/safety reason or you felt your dog would lose too much speed going up the A-frame. You can either front cross between # and # and then give a verbal or physical cue to turn your dog away from you into the # tunnel or you can stay on the south side of the A-frame and get your dog to the A-frame with a pull, false turn or verbal. Stuff your dog into the tunnel. You can either front/blind cross at the tunnel exit to pick your dog up on your right to go to # or pull him out of the tunnel on your left hand and do a rear cross on the flat to turn him to #. V Issue Page

37 Volume Issue After the fast loop, # to # is probably a pull-through for most people. If you can get ahead of your dog you may be able to do a front cross at # to get a tight turn and pick your dog up on your left side to push him through to #. Otherwise you must use a false turn or drop shoulder or pull to get him through the gap between # and # and then rear cross to turn him to #. Immediately drive forward to signal # while your dog is still on the take-off side of # but be careful not to push into him too hard or you may force him to the backside of #. SET & SET These sets are quite tricky with a lot of work required around tunnels and turns at the double. They are primarily front cross sets which run best when you lead your dog from the head. After you work them, just do a big speed loop around the outside with your dog to have some fun after the tight turns. Enjoy! Aerodynamically, the bumble bee shouldn t be able to fly, but the bumble bee doesn t know it so it goes on flying anyway. Mary Kay Ash V Issue Page

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39 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) This opening is best handled if you are able to lead out past # so you can be in position to front cross between # and #. At the # double you can turn your dog left if you have room as this maintains a nice line through to # and # from #. If you don t have the space you must turn right at #. Drive around the loop to # but be sure to start cuing some collection on the approach to # to get a good turn to the teeter. If your dog has an independent teeter performance, leave him so you can get ahead at the # double to front cross between # and # so that he will be on the correct lead for you to pull him to # and #. You could also do a rear cross at the entrance to the tunnel to turn your dog to # but if your dog turns tight out of the tunnel exit he may miss the # jump and you will be too far behind to help. SET Sequence (# - #) The most straight forward way to handle the opening of this sequence is to lead out and do a front cross between # and the # tunnel. Cheat to the north side of the tunnel, as far down the tunnel as you can and still safely get your dog to go to #. Then you will be able to be in position for a front cross between # and #. Don t run at # or your dog will jump long at #. Decelerate between # and # to cue collection. As your dog performs the teeter, start to move across between # and # so that you can front cross and still get past the standard of # so you are ahead of your dog going to V Issue Page

40 Volume Issue #. You could also keep your dog on your right through # and # and do a rear cross on the take-off side of # but be careful to drive forward hard or your dog may turn too tight at # and head for the tunnel. SET The main challenge in this set is how to handle the # tunnel. You can run ahead and do a front cross between # and the # tunnel or you can send your dog to # through # and layer the tunnel and still do a front cross to bring your dog from # to #. Those with great distance work might even just send up the line from # to # and slip across the exit of the tunnel! SET This set is a nice fast set to get your dog moving! Enjoy! It was a high counsel that I once heard given to a young person, Always do what you are afraid to do. Ralph Waldo Emerson V Issue Page

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42 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. When I refer to turning right and left at an obstacle, it is always relative to the dog s perspective on the approach to that obstacle. If you have more space, feel free to spread the set out a bit more. NOTE: If you are using a particular handling system, some suggestions may not fit into that system. Use the suggestions or make adaptions that are appropriate for your handling style. SET Sequence (# - #) The purpose of this opening is to work on collection into the poles. If you have very good lateral distance on your dog, you can position yourself near # on the lead-out. From there it is only a quick step or two to get to the east side of the poles so that you are in position to go to #. If you handle in this fashion, think of # to the # poles as a serpentine and ask for collection on the take-off side of # with either your body language or a verbal cue. Another variation is to lead out to #, use a pull or false turn to go to # and decelerate hard before # to get the collection from your dog and then pull to the poles. A final way of handling is to do a front cross between # and # (either with a lead out or by running with your dog), and then use a rear cross on the take-off side of # to turn your dog to the poles. You may need to shapre the approach to # so that your dog jumps # from a more straight on approach if his weave entries need some work. This will make his turn to the poles wider but will help shape his line to the poles and avoid his having to do a lot of collection to get into the poles. If you ran with the poles on your right (down the east side of the course) it is a simple pull and run from the end of the poles to #. If you had the poles on your left (you ran on the west side of the poles) you will either need to do a rear cross on the flat or verbal to turn your dog to # or you will need to do a front cross/blind cross at the end of the weave poles. It is too awkward to rear cross the entrance to the poles, especially since there are only six poles. It doesn t give you time to get to the end of the poles. V Issue Page