CHICKEN HATCHING. Management Manual. ABN Collie Rd, Gembrook, 3783 Tel: (03) Fax: (03)

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CHICKEN HATCHING Management Manual ABN 30858542995 76 Collie Rd, Gembrook, 3783 Tel: (03) 59681616 Fax: (03) 59681143 www.animalsonthemove.com.au

AIM OF THE PROGRAM To teach the children about the circle of life The aim of this program is to show the children how a chickens life begins. The children get will see the chickens pecking their way out of the eggs and changing from a wet and weak chick to a cute fluffy chick. The children can then monitor the changes and growth of the chickens. SHOULD YOU REQUIRE ANY FURTHER INFORMATION OR NEED ANY ASSISTANCE DURING THE PERIOD OF THE PROGRAM PLEASE DO NOT HESITATE TO CALL A STAFF MEMBER AT ANIMALS ON THE MOVE ON: 1300 760 354 IMPORTANT INFORMATION The temperature of the incubator must always be on 100 degrees The base of the incubator must always have water in the centre sections and the outer sections must be dry for the correct humidity. The lights must be on in the brooder box to keep the chickens warm. All eggs should be hatched by Friday and the base of the incubator should be cleaned before anyone arrives to collect the chickens. If by Friday there are still eggs that have not hatched they should be disposed of before they begin to smell. Chickens are very fragile and care should be taken when they are being handled.

CARE AND MANAGEMENT INSTRUCTIONS Brooder 1. Food and Water should be available to the chickens at all times in the brooder. 2. Lights in the brooder box must be on at all times to keep the chickens warm. If they are too cold they will cheep loudly. Check both light globes are working replace if necessary. If chicks are too hot (open mouth panting) open the lid of the brooder box 3. The brooder box may need to be cleaned if it begins to smell or if the water is spilt, a bag of fresh bedding is provided. THE INCUBATOR 1. When setting up the incubator, avoid placing near air conditioning, heating vents, open windows or in direct sunlight 2. The Incubator must have water in the centre sections of the base and the outer sections must be dry to create the right humidity for the chickens to hatch. Check water daily and top up as required through the blue hole. 3. Do not move the incubator once it has been set up until the chicks have hatched. 4. Move the chicks to the brooder box only when they are dry and fluffy. 5. Dispose of unhatched eggs and clean the incubator base before pick up on Friday. Please call Animals on the Move for further assistance 1300 760 354

MORE CHICKEN FACTS A female chicken is called a HEN A male chicken is called a ROOSTER A group of chickens is called a FLOCK There are more chickens in the word than people Chickens give us meat and eggs It takes 21 days for a chicken to hatch out of its egg Chickens like to eat insects, worms, seeds, grains and grass The life span of a chicken is approx. 8 years A chicken does not need a rooster to be able to lay eggs

THE HATCHING OF THE CHICKENS Chickens keep their eggs warm by sitting on them for 21 days. On the 21 st day the chick inside the egg begins to have muscle spasms that cause it to kick with its legs which causes its beak to peck at the shell, every muscle spasm causes the chick to turn in a circular motion in the egg so it can slowly crack tiny holes around the shell with its egg tooth. The egg tooth is a hard point on the end of the chick s beak that disappears a few days after it has hatched It can take up to 24 hours for the chick to break free from the egg When the chick finally breaks free from the egg it is wet and very weak after using all it energy to break the shell. The chick needs to stay in the incubator till it regains its strength and it is dry and fluffy. The dry fluffy chicks can then be moved from the incubator in to the brooder box under the warmth of the lights the chicks do not normally eat for the first day as they still have all the nutrients from the yolk inside the egg. Some eggs may not hatch. Weak chicks can become exhausted trying to struggle free of the egg and die. It is OK to help any that appear spent, by gently removing pieces of the shell. In nature of course only the strongest survive.

CHICKEN HATCHING Evaluation form Thank you for booking the Animals on the Move-Chicken Hatching Program We trust your group has enjoyed watching the chickens hatch and the experience of interacting with the chickens and watching them grow. We would greatly appreciate if you could take a few moments to evaluate the program by answering the questions below What did your group learn from the program... What activities did your group undertake involving the chickens.. How did it fit in with your curriculum Were the instructions easy to follow.... Were pick up and drop off arrangements satisfactory. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations for improvements.. Any further comments Please fax this form back to us on 59681143 or post it to 76 Collie Rd Gembrook 3783

Starting with chicks By starting your chicken husbandry with chicks, you'll have more success with them being socialized to you. Depending on the amount of hands-on care, they will become like any other family pet. They'll know who you are and come to greet you at the end of a busy day. Chicks are available from a number of sources. Do a little research if breed and size is important to you. If you have hens already, you can purchase fertilized eggs and attempt a swap between unfertilized eggs you've intentionally left for your hens to brood. When it works, Mama Hen will do the brooding for you, but timing is critical. Chicks are easiest to obtain in the early spring. This allows several months for them to get big enough to tolerate outdoor temperatures. Get females, not males. Sexing chicks isn't 100% accurate and can only be done by a trained professional so don't be surprised if you end up with a cockerel instead of a pullet. If so, find a home for the young fellow, or have him butchered for dinner. Baby chicks need to be kept clean and warm with constant access to chick feed and fresh water. In the olden days, housewives kept a brooder near the woodstove. Since you probably don't have a woodstove going all day, you'll need a brooder to contain them. Keeping them in the house in a large plastic bin lined with straw or wood shavings, a water container, a food tray and a lamp for warmth. The bin needs to be cleaned frequently by changing the straw (which provide traction for little bird feet) and replacing the water and food containers with clean ones. Clean, warm chicks thrive; dirty, cold chicks die. Some chicks die anyway, especially if you are new to this. You can get books or look up chickens on the internet to get all the info on illness and diet requirements, but be prepared for a few fatalities. If you can get them past the first week or so, chances are good you'll have sturdy survivors. This is a quick, simplified overview of what it takes to have a couple hens. There is more to it of course, which experience and more comprehensive sources will provide. Hens lay eggs from about six or seven months of age until they are about four or five years old, but they can live for several years longer. Many people keep them as pets long past the point of egg laying, in effect creating their own poultry retirement village. Others, arguably less sentimental, have no problem with having old hens butchered and turned into soup. Hens are wonderful, friendly creatures with unique personalities that offer us eggs, insect control, and rich manure. Regardless of whether you decide to keep them as pets or as working farm animals, for your daily commitment, they will provide a tremendous amount of enjoyment and satisfaction. They'll also open a new window into the world of nature and your part in it, which makes for a wonderful family education, too. For more info feel free to call us at Animals on the Move 1300 760 354 www.animalsonthemove.com.au

HEN ROOSTER

Experiment one All you will need is: 1 raw egg 1 jar with a lid Vinegar What to do: Put the egg inside the jar Cover the egg with vinegar Watch what happens over the next 72 hours! What has happened? To begin with little bubbles start to form on the eggs shell, more and more bubbles form. After 72 hours the shell of the egg will have disappeared leaving the thin transparent membrane that contains the yolk and the size of the egg will have increased. Why did this happen? The bubbles seen on the egg was carbon dioxide gas, the carbon dioxide gas was produced by a chemical reaction between the egg shell and the vinegar this chemical reaction dissolves the egg shell. The rest of the egg can not be dissolved by the vinegar, but the thin membrane protecting the egg becomes stronger and more rubbery. The egg has grown larger because the membrane protecting the egg has allowed the water in the vinegar too pass through, the vinegar is unable to pass through because it is made up of larger molecules which are to big to fit through the tiny holes in the membrane.