Ready Hatch Manual Table of Contents 1. Teachers Notes 1.1 Helpline 1.2 Feedback Form 2. Contents of Kit 3. Incubation 3.1 General 3.2 Setting Up Incubator 3.3 Temperature 3.4 Humidity 4. Hatching 4.1 General 4.2 The Hatch 4.3 Removal from Incubator 4.4 Hatching Difficulties 4.5 Sick Chicks 4.5 Cleaning 5. Brooding 5.1 Temperature 5.2 Feeding 5.3 Handling 5.4 Husbandry 5.5 Keeping Chickens 6. Packing Instructions 7. Home Rearing 8. CD Rom 8.1 Viewing CD-Rom
1. Teachers Notes Congratulations on booking the Living Eggs Ready Hatch programme. The information contained in this manual and on the CD is for you to become more familiar with our programme, the incubation and brooding process and with terminology associated with poultry. We hope this information will make first time chicken hatchers a little more comfortable with the programme. The activity sheets and project sheets are all available for you to print and copy. The overall aims and objectives of our Ready Hatch programme are for the children to: 1. Gain or extend an understanding of a Life Cycle 2. Experience caring for and nurturing a living creature 3. Interpret the laws of nature 4. Extend language and observation skills 5. Learn by experience Prior to Hatching After delivery, and prior to hatching it is important to observe the following points:- Regularly check the temperature in the incubator. Over the years we have developed different incubators and our representative will describe how to check (and adjust if necessary) the temperature in your particular incubator. If not sure at any time please call the helpline phone number. Do not turn the eggs, and endeavour to keep them as stationary as possible. Fill the water tray(s) as directed by the sticker on the incubator. Sometimes the chicks can be heard chirping in the shell 24 hours before hatching. Let the children listen but try to minimize bumping of the incubator. Hatching The hatching process isn t instantaneous the chickens do have to work very hard to get out of their shells; so don t panic when they flop out of their shells onto the floor of the incubator! The eggs are always candled and checked before they are dispatched and are due to hatch in the week supplied, the target day being Wednesday. However, certain variances such as incubator temperatures, weather conditions and breed of chicken used, can sometimes mean earlier or later hatching. Our incubators have been specifically designed to late hatch the chicks. Large windows have been included for easier viewing. The forced air incubator ensures an even temperature flow over all eggs and reaches the required temperature and humidity levels quickly. When used in accordance with the instructions, successful hatchings should occur. Do not, however, expect all eggs to hatch. Sometimes, even under a mother hen only 30% successfully hatch. Once hatched, the chicks are transferred to our Brooder Box. The Brooder Box allows the children the added pleasure of watching the chickens grow and develop.
You will find details on hatching and brooding (keeping the chicks warm under lights) in the Ready Hatch Manual along with all the other information you will need. Responsible Care We know you will love the programme and are sure we do not need to remind you that in taking part you are assuming responsibility for other living creatures. It is with this in mind that we recommend the following: 1. Chickens remain in their brooder box at your school or centre overnight. Please don t allow children to take chickens home with them. However over the weekend it is advisable to allow a responsible family to take the chicks home in the brooder. Please ensure that they do not have any pets (cats or dogs) that may upset the chicks. 2. There is ample feed provided to last the chicks for the duration of the programme. Variety can be added later in the week, however the crumble should remain their staple diet to ensure a balanced vitamin and mineral intake. 3. Families are welcome to keep the chicks at the end of the programme, however, we do ask that they are aware of all the implications associated with raising and keeping the chickens. Full details are provided on the Home Rearing pages. Please ensure that they have a copy and fully understand their responsibilities. 4. Remind children to wash their hands before and after handling the chicks. 1.1 Helpline We have endeavoured to provide you with masses of information about chickens and hatching on the CD. For general queries, refer to the appropriate section of this Ready Hatch Manual. If you still can t find the answer, send us an e-mail or give us a call. Our e-mail address is on the Helpline Sticker on the Brooder If however, at any time during the programme, should you be uncertain of any aspect, please call us on the priority Helpline phone number. Occasionally our phone is diverted to our message bank. Simply leave a message and quote Helpline to ensure a prompt reply. Helpline No. is on label on brooder box Quote "Helpline" in your message Our Website is: www.livingeggs.co.uk The helpline phone number is for your use and we are pleased to assist with any queries at any time..however please do not give it to parents to use for advice on keeping chickens. 1.2 Feedback Form A feedback form is included. Please take the time to complete and return with the kit. Your feedback will allow us to maintain and improve the quality of this service, and identify and rectify any problems occurring.
2. Contents of Kit Please check the list against items delivered and if any are missing please call us on the Helpline number. The complete Ready Hatch kit consists of the following items.. Incubator Extras Brooder Box Box with viewing window Hinged viewing lid for Brooder Box Light Fitting and bulb (fitted to box) Feed Bowl Waterer Bedding Chick Feed Ancillary Items Teachers Resource Kit Eggs To make life easier, we suggest you have the following items at hand. Spare Bulb (60 watt Bayonet connector) Newspaper to place on the brooder floor-this makes for easier cleaning of brooder. Cardboard box-to place chicks in when cleaning brooder.
3. Incubation 3.1 General The Living Eggs incubator is specifically designed for trouble-free hatching and easy viewing. The forced air incubator ensures fast access to the required temperature and humidity. The Disposable Floor Liner reduces soiling in the incubator thus making cleaning easier. 3.2 Setting Up Incubato The Chicken Hatching Kit will be delivered and set up by our representative. 3.3 Temperature Two kinds of incubators are in use-analogue and Digital Analogue The analogue units use a thermometer to indicate temperature. The thermometer is a thermochromic liquid crystal strip, providing accurate and easily readable temperatures. Generally the strip will have 3 windows coloured, the highest being brown and the lowest being blue. The central colour of green is the actual temperature. Once the required temperature is achieved, the indicator light will cycle on/off depending on the need for heat. Accordingly the thermometer will cycle above and below the ideal temperature of 37.5 deg C. Initially the thermometer may indicate a higher temperature as the incubator heats up. This will settle down as the internal temperature reaches its target. The temperature may drop a couple of degrees without affecting the hatch, but a couple of degrees too high needs urgent attention. The electronic thermostats are extremely reliable and stable and should not require adjusting. If, however, temperature adjustment is necessary, turn the small knob on top of the temperature controller about a quarter of a turn (clockwise to increase temperature and anti-clockwise to decrease temperature). If Temperature strip shows no colour bars, then the incubator temperature is either above or below the temperature strip range. Feel the eggs to determine whether the temperature is too high or too low. (Correct temperature is body temperature) Adjust accordingly. Wait 5 minutes between adjustments. Recheck Temperature until stable and correct. Digital The digital units have a display panel that indicates the temperature and is preset to the required temperature 3.4 Humidity If in doubt or experiencing difficulties, call the helpline. High humidity is essential for successful hatching especially in the last few days. The Ready Hatch incubator is designed to provide the correct level of humidity for hatching. Fill the water tray according to the instructions on the incubator lid. Unlike many other incubators, opening of the Ready Hatch incubator will not adversely affect the hatch rate of the eggs. The fan forced air will quickly regain temperature and humidity. Note: However we recommend not opening the incubator unnecessarily. Excessive and extended opening of incubator during pipping can cause the chicks to stick in the egg.
4. Hatching 4.1 General Chickens hatch 21 days after setting (give or take a day due to variables eg. temperature, weather conditions and breed of chicken). However your eggs have been incubated and are only 3 days from hatching. The target day is Wednesday, however this may be slightly earlier or later. Once in the incubator, it should not be opened unnecessarily until the hatch is finished. (Excessive or extended opening of the incubator reduces the humidity which may cause hatching failures). If the incubator is opened, it should be for minimal time only. 4.2 The Hatch The first signs of hatching are: - - chirping noises from the incubator (sometimes 24 hours prior to pipping) - Eggs rocking on the floor - Pipping - pipping is the action of breaking the shell. Chicks should appear within 24 hours of first pipping and all should be hatched within 36 hours of the first chick emerging. When chicks emerge, they look wet and weak. Do not panic as this is normal. As they dry, a sheath over their feathers breaks away and the chicks begin to fluff up. This appears as dust in the incubator and is called 'Dander.' They do not need feed or water for the first 24 hours or so as they are utilizing the yolk which was ingested while in the egg. 4.3 Removal from Incubator A lot of chicks in the incubator may look like overcrowding. This is the way they like it and its a lot roomier than their shell was. How much space would they have under Mother Hen? You may, wish to move them in stages. As several have fluffed up they may be removed from the incubator and placed in the pre-warmed brooder box. Take out the broken shells when you remove the chicks and ensure opening times are as short as possible. 4.4 Hatching Difficulties Not all eggs may hatch. Some chicks may not complete pipping the shell. In nature they would not succeed and this is simply survival of the fittest. However if you wish to assist them, wait until at least 24 hours after the first signs of pipping before breaking them out. Any earlier and they may be premature and will not have had time to absorb the yolk. These will not survive. Eggs not showing any sign of activity 24 hours after the emergence of the last can be assumed unsuccessful. It may be ideal to remove failed eggs and any ill chicks before the children arrive in the mornings. 4.5 Sick Chicks Occasionally a chick may appear unwell. Remember we are only a phone call away for advice and we strongly urge you to contact us on the Helpline phone number. However the ultimate responsibility for the chicks well-being remains with you.
4.6 Cleaning Immediately upon transferring the chicks to the brooder, discard unhatched eggs, shell and the disposable Liner, and wash the incubator base with warm water. If some stains are difficult to remove, soak for a few minutes in warm water before washing off. Do not use harsh scouring pads as they will damage the surface. The chassis will be covered by a dust-like substance. This is the Dander from the chicks feathers. Use a brush (paint brush or similar) to clean this away. Do not use water on the electrical components. Allow all parts to dry completely before packing away. It is probably apt to mention here that the humidity in the incubator can promote bacteria growth, which may affect the next hatching. Unfortunately by the time we collect the equipment, in some instances the damage has already been done. This is why we ask that the incubator be cleaned and dried immediately after use.
5. Brooding Spread a couple of sheets of newspaper on the floor of the incubator, cover with a layer of wood shavings. Make sure there are enough wood shavings to absorb the droppings and to ensure the chicks don t slip on the paper. The newspaper and bedding will need to be changed regularly to ensure the chicks are living in a clean healthy environment. When cleaning the brooder, use a cardboard box to house the chicks temporarily. This makes cleaning a lot easier. Place feed and water inside at opposite end to the light. Sprinkle a little feed onto the bedding the first time to teach them to pick for food. Fit the Perspex lid, making sure that the positioning pins are correctly located to secure it. Switch on the light to warm the brooder box for 5 minutes before transferring the chicks from the incubator. When chicks are ready for transfer, (refer Hatching section) place in brooder and close lid. Note breather space at opposite end to the light. 5.1 Temperature There will be a temperature variance in the brooder depending on distance from the light and the chickens will find the most comfortable area. The chicks are probably the best indicators of correct temperature. If they are huddled under the light and not moving out, then they are too cold. If they are at the end of the brooder trying to get away from the light., then they are too hot. Turn off the light for a period (however ensure it is turned on again for the night). If they are moving freely about the box, then they are comfortable. Remember though that they are babies and tend to huddle together for company or to sleep from time to time. Use the chickens activity levels (as shown below) to guide you on temperatures. Too cold Too hot comfortable L L L Make sure in the first few days they are not exposed to cold for too long. As they grow older, they can be handled for longer periods. Check chicken activity daily for suitable temperature. Change or top up the bedding as necessary. If the children do this, ensure hygiene precautions are in place. This may require washing hands or wearing disposable gloves.
5.2 Feeding Fill the feed container morning and evening with the supplied chick crumb. Do not overfeed them While the chic crumb supplied should be the main source of feed, chickens will appreciate a treat from time to time. If other feeds are given, reduce the chick feed ration accordingly. Any cereal based products are suitable as a supplementary feed for the chicks ie. bread, toast, crusts, crushed up wheetabix, boiled rice, rolled oats etc. Cut up greens eg. lettuce can be fed as well as left-overs from the fruit plates. Do not feed too much as this causes loose droppings and if severe, a problem called pasting up occurs where the droppings stick and harden around the vent. This must be removed as soon as noticed. Hard Boiled egg chopped into crumble size pieces is especially good for them. Small Garden worms are a treat and they will compete rather excitedly for them. 5.3 Handling Chickens are hardy little creatures, however young children do sometimes tend to hold them a bit too tightly or drop them when they get excited, so remind the children to use gentle hands to avoid any accidents. Before holding the chicks, it is important to ensure that the children are sitting down. We have found the following method to be the safest means of holding the chicks. Place one hand flat for the floor and the other hand loosely over the chick to prevent it jumping off the hand. Ensure children keep the floor hand straight and flat as this reduces the chance of hurting the chicks. It is essential to closely observe young children when they are handling the chicks. Chicks will call out if they are not comfortable in a child s hands. After handling the chicks, ensure the children wash their hands. 5.4 Husbandry Food and droppings occasionally accumulate on the toes and appear as little balls. Gently remove them by peeling away with a fingernail. Pasting up can occur with loose droppings. Pull away to clear vent and reduce wet/green feed. If severe, then soak the area in warm water until it is soft enough to remove. Ill or deformed chickens should be put down. The common method is neck dislocation. If uncomfortable with this procedure, you may be able to get a friend experienced with poultry to assist. A local vet is another alternative.
5.5 Keeping Chicken The chicks are yours and you may keep them or give them away at the end of the programme. Please ensure that they will be cared for responsibly. Should you wish, we will collect the chicks at the end of the programme as we have many neighbours, hobby farmers and free range egg producers in our area who are always looking for chickens. You will need to obtain a suitable box and light as it is necessary for our incubator and brooder box to be returned on the agreed date. A cardboard box and desk lamp can do the job, but make sure it is not a fire hazard. You may have families who wish to take the chickens. Please point out to them they are un-sexed and that some will be Cockerels. In many areas Cockerels. are not allowed. Also consideration should be given to neighbours as cockerels can be noisy. We ask that you copy the Home Rearing section and give to the parents before they decide to take the chicks home. Remember any queries... call our Helpline Number
6. Packing Instructions IMPORTANT Please ensure that the incubator is packed as per instructions. Failure to do so has caused considerable damage in the past. Wash and dry the incubator thoroughly after hatching Re-assemble the incubator as if ready to use, including placing water trays and flooring (in some models) inside. Throw away the disposable liner Check that the following items are available for collection: Incubator (completely assembled) Waterer Feeder Light Fitting & Bulb Viewing Lid Brooder Box Feedback Form Teachers Resource Kit including CD and manual Please take time to fill out the Feedback form to allow us to monitor the success of the programme. Indication of how many, and when they hatch enables us to fine-tune the incubation programme in the future. We have included a section on the feedback form to let you book for the next year, as many weeks get fully booked out.
Parents Please Note: 7. Home Rearing Please copy this section and send home prior to families receiving chickens. Some Councils do not allow chickens, or have minimum requirements for housing them These chickens may not have been sexed and some may be cockerels. Many Councils do not allow cockerels in gardens. Do you have a responsible means of placing any unwanted cockerels? Will your neighbors object to chickens in your garden? Do you have someone to look after them if you go away? Please do not take chicks home if you do not have the facilities to care for them properly. Not only is it nice to have fresh home-grown eggs, but hens can make excellent pets and are a pleasure to have in your garden. They can clean up colonies of insects, and provide fertilizer for your garden. Chickens are an important part of any Permaculture garden. By the time the chicks leave the Living Eggs' Brooder box to go to new homes they are approximately 10 days old. They are significantly larger and more robust than when they were hatched and are starting to develop feathers on their wings and tails. The chickens will need warmth for a further 2-6 weeks (depending on the season). A box and a light is satisfactory, providing drafts are excluded. (ensure that the setup is not a fire hazard). The size of the box For more chickens a larger brooder is necessary. A circular sheet of cardboard or tin plate makes an ideal brooder. A larger rated light There will be a temperature variance in the brooder box depending on distance from the light and the chickens will find the most comfortable area. The chicks are probably the best indicators of correct temperature. If they are huddled under the light and not moving out, then they are too cold. If they are at the end of the brooder trying to get away from the light, then they are too hot. If they are moving freely about the box, then they are comfortable. Remember though that they are babies and tend to huddle together for company or to sleep from time to time. If cold (or cold spell), increase bulb wattage. If hot (or hot spell), decrease bulb wattage or turn light off. Use the chickens activity levels (as shown below) to guide you on temperatures.
L L L Too cold Too hot comfortable Newspaper on the floor is an ideal base as it can be changed easily, removing all waste and soiling. Sand, sawdust or rice hulls on the newspaper absorbs much of the droppings and provides a surface to scratch in. Heat, at a gradually reducing level will be required until they are 4-8 weeks old, depending on seasonal conditions. The reduction in heating level can be achieved by raising the light or reducing the wattage of the lamp. At 6-8 weeks they should be moved to a proper fowl run. This will have an outside run and a sheltered area for night. A perch should be available for roosting. (For further information on care of fowls and suitable runs, refer to reference books at end of this chapter.) Water A purpose built waterer which prevents the chicks from getting wet or spoiling the water is preferable. These can be purchased from Pet Shops or Produce Stores for around 2 or 3. Alternatively a shallow bowl can be used with a flat rock in it to prevent the chicks from drowning. In this instance the water must be changed regularly as the chicks will spoil in it. Feed The simplest and most practical food is the commercially prepared chick crumb (chick bits). Chick Crumb offers a complete and balanced diet for the chicks and we strongly recommend this as their staple diet. This is available from most Pet Shops or Produce Stores in 1 or 2 kg bags. While the crumb should be the main source of feed, chickens will appreciate a treat from time to time. Cut up greens e.g.. lettuce can be fed as well as left over fruit pieces. Do not feed too much as this causes loose droppings and if severe, a problem called pasting up occurs where the droppings stick and harden around the vent. This must be removed as soon as noticed. Small Garden worms are a treat and they will compete rather excitedly for them. Husbandry Food and droppings occasionally accumulate on the toes and appear as little balls. Gently remove them by peeling away with a fingernail. Pasting up can occur with loose droppings. Pull away to clear vent and reduce wet/green feed. If severe then soak the area in warm water until it is soft enough to remove. Ill chickens should be put down as they are likely to pass disease or infection on to the remainder of the flock. The common method is neck dislocation. If uncomfortable with this procedure you may be able to get a friend experienced with poultry to assist. A local vet is another alternative.
References We have found the following books ideal reference sources for most poultry queries, and they are readily available from most Libraries. A Chicken or Two in the Garden available from Living Eggs The Urban Hen by Paul Peacock How to Books Ltd Beginner s Guide to Chickens by Lee Faber Abbeydale Press Hens in the Garden Eggs in the Kitchen Choosing and Keeping Chickens by Charlotte Popescu Cavalier Paperbacks by Chris Graham Bounty Books
8. CD Rom Introduction The CD allows us to include a lot more information (and interactive programmes) than a hard copy manual. To allow all computers to access this CD, a common viewing platform is necessary. We elected to use web browsers for this platform as more computers have these installed than other types of viewing programmes. 8.1 Viewing CD-Rom Insert CD-Rom in your Drive. The CD will automatically start. The opening menu for the Living Eggs CD-Rom will appear. In some instances, instead of opening at the Main Menu, a series of icons will appear. Simply double-click on the default icon to bring up the Main Menu
Life Cycle of a Hen Hens lay eggs nearly every day. We can buy these and eat them BUT Some eggs are not for eating and we can t buy these eggs in the shops. These eggs will hatch The hen is the mother and the rooster is the father. When the birds have mated the hen will lay special fertile eggs. These eggs will hatch into chickens. The hen sits on her eggs to keep them warm. We use an incubator. The chick will grow up to be a hen or a rooster The chicks food comes from the yolk of the egg. Very soon the chick can stand up and run about. It gets stronger. Air comes through tiny holes in the shell Chicks hatch after 21 days When the chick comes out of its shell it is wet and very tired, so it lies down to rest. As it dries, a sheath over its feathers breaks away. (This is called Dander ). The chick then begins to fluff up. * Chicks do not need feed or water for the first 24-48 hours as they are utilizing the yolk which was ingested before hatching. At the end of the chick s beak is a bump called the egg tooth. The chick uses its egg tooth to tap the shell to make a tiny hole then break the shell. This is called pipping.