W hat's I n Yo u r To 0 I box? Training Equipment - Pros and Cons By Pia Silvani Taking a stroll down the "training tools" aisle of your favorite pet store can overwhelm a pet professional, never mind the average pet owner. But, where do you begin when your client asks you, as a professional in the field, what piece of equipment to use? To begin, ask yourself a few questions before making a recommendation: 1) Do I understand how the equipment works? Will the client use it strictly for control or will it be used to correct unwanted behaviors? If it's for the latter, will the result be harm to the animal? 2) Do I understand how to properly fit the equipment without causing undue stress or hardship to the animal? 3) Am I open to different types of equipment to make well-informed choices with an understanding of its use to avoid causing prolonged discomfort or injury to the animal? 4) Can the client achieve the same success with the equipment or will the client cause distress to the animal?
We all have our favorite training aids for dogs; yet one tool is not always effective for all dogs. It is imperative we become familiar with various kinds of equipment and their use so we can better educate our clients about the risks and benefits of each tool should we be asked. The following is a brief list of the most commonly used pieces of training equipment on the market. The focus is on collars, halters and harnesses, their fit, use, benefits and risks. This article is written for educational purposes and not to recommend or discourage any piece of equipment. Ultimately, common sense, experience and knowledge should always be used when selecting and using equipment. TRAINING COLLARS The key to understanding the risks and benefits of collars, halters and harnesses is not so much the piece of equipment, but who is at the end of the leash and what is being done. It is recommended collars be removed from dogs when unattended since the tags, collar or other pieces of the collar can get caught on objects causing the collar to tighten, posing great risk. Flat or buckle A collar placed around dog's neck, on which is attached identification, license and, at times, a lead. Flat collars can be made of a variety of material including leather, nylon or cloth. Proper Fit: Snug enough so dog cannot back out of collar, yet loose enough to avoid chaffing of neck.
Benefits: For basic restraint; little acclimation time and traditional appearance Effective when used on a dog who does not pull on the leash when walked If used correctly, has minimal risk of injury or discomfort; no unlimited choking Dog may gag or choke when exerting force against the collar when leash is tightened. Dog can slip out of collar by backing out. Puts pressure on airway when dog is pulling - ineffective for dedicated pullers. Can cause damage to trachea or spine when jerked. Halters/Head Collars - Halters Gentle Leader (promise)tm, Haiti or Snoot LoopTM A halter fitted over dog's muzzle and around neck. Concept: wherever the head goes, the body follows. Proper Fit: High and snug around the back of the neck. Nose band varies according to model. See manufacturer's instructions since each halter fits differently. Benefits: Uses minimal force and pain to move dog in direction you wish him to go. Does not choke dog or restrict airway. Puts no pressure on trachea or spine.
Effective with strong dogs and weak owners; controls without any physical pain. Initially uncomfortable for dog. Sometimes perceived as a muzzle by passer-by. Some dogs refuse to accept halter, even after wearing it for weeks or months. Can rub fur from dog's nose and irritate eye area if fitted or used incorrectly. Some dogs exhibit behavioral suppression and depressing effect. Dogs exhibiting aggressive behavior may not tolerate halter being put on. May not be appropriate for dogs with cervical instabilities. Martingale A limited-slip collar that allows the dog to be comfortable, but gives the owner some control. Proper Fit: Some slide over the dog's head, others snap around the neck. When loop is pulled tight, collar should be snug, without choking dog. Benefits: Does not easily come off the dog's neck, even if the dog is pulling backward. Has a traditional appearance, and is comfortable for the dog. Has restricted range of tightness that prevents choking when leash is pulled tight.
Moderately effective for mild pullers. Ineffective for dedicated pullers. Fabric loop or loose ring can get hooked on foreign objects causing collar to tighten. If dog pulls, can cause excessive pressure on trachea causing dog to gag. Can constrict and choke if fitted too snuggly. Foot or jaw can get caught in loop. Doesn't release easily with long coated dogs. Pinch or Prong A limited slip collar that allows dog to be comfortable unless the dog or owner pulls on the leash, at which time blunt-ended prongs pinch the dog's neck. Its effects can be softened by attaching the leash to both rings, by covering the prongs with cloth or rubber tips, or by only having a couple of the prongs make contact with the neck. Its effects can be increased if the prongs are small and/or the collar is fitted high and snug on the dog's neck. Proper Fit: High on dog's neck and snug enough so dogs cannot back out of collar. Rule of thumb, you should be able to slide your hand under collar without problem. Benefits: Does not take much timing on the part of the handler; can be selfcorrecting. If dog pulls, collar tightens. Limited constricting around neck and avoids restricting airway.
Distributes even pressure around dog's neck. Many dogs acclimate to collar quickly. Can be easily modified by inverting prongs or putting rubber tips on each prong. If handler pulls too hard, dog can be corrected for doing nothing wrong. Because collar works by causing pain, dog may become very confused and identify the pain with something he or she sees at the time of the pain, or lash out at whatever is close when the collar is tightened (including the handler). For this reason, this collar is not recommended for dogs that exhibit aggressive behavior towards other dogs or people. Prongs sometimes loosen and come apart. Difficult to put on for arthritic people. Requires skill and timing. Dogs can learn to desensitize to the pinching and collar becomes ineffective. Can cause injury if used incorrectly. Choke Chain (Training Collar/Check Chain) A length of chain or nylon (or combination) that loops on itself, and tightens when pulled. There is no limit on the chain to reduce tightening. Proper Fit: Collar should easily slip over dog's head, leaving at least four inches of chain hanging once around dog's neck. When collar is jerked, collar should immediately loosen. The two rings should, when lying on dog's neck, appear to look like the letter "p" not a "q." If fitted incorrectly, collar will not loosen.
Benefits: Used by experienced trainers, collar can reduce pulling very quickly by punishing pulling behavior. Dogs cannot easily back out of collar since collar tightens. Has a traditional appearance and physical discomfort is low when not tightened. Collar can be quite dangerous, even fatal if used incorrectly. Dog can get collar-wise and circumvent the action of the collar. Unlimited choking if pulled too tightly; can elicit pain and aggressive behaviors in dogs if used incorrectly. Can cause gasping, gagging and choking when lead is pulled. If fitted incorrectly, collar will not loosen and be continuously tight. Requires great skill and timing to be effective. Harnesses Unlike collars, which control a dog by attaching a lead to the neck and/or head, a harness wraps to the dog's body, with the leash attached to a ring at the top of the dog's back, usually at the withers (shoulder blades). There are a variety of styles available. Most are merely variations on a theme, with the dog's comfort the primary consideration. However, there are also some "no-pull" harnesses on the market. The no-pull harnesses usually work by applying pressure on the back of the dog's front legs, causing the dog discomfort. Benefits: Rarely cause pain, and sometimes work quite well on small dogs, who
cannot pull against the harnesses. Preferred to use on dogs who have had neck injuries. Almost completely ineffective when used to stop pulling by medium to large dogs, except when a no-pull harness is used. The no-pull harnesses sometimes cause rubbing or chafing sores on the back of the dog's leg. The key behind all of the abovementioned pieces of equipment is to be aware they are aids and do not take the place of training itself. The human performs training. No training aid can work miracles. When used inhumanely, the most benign piece of equipment can be detrimental to the well-being of the dog. The goal should be to choose the least aversive piece of equipment to achieve the training goal. When frustration sets in, either by dog or human, a change in equipment and instructions in its use is recommended. Training should be an enjoyable experience for both handler and dog. Pia Silvani is Director of Pet Training and Behavior Counseling at St. Hubert's Animal Welfare Center in Madison, New Jersey. For more information, please visit www.sthuberts.org