GUIDE FOR PEOPLE CONSIDERING ADOPTING PET RABBITS
INTERESTED IN ADOPTING A PAIR OF RABBITS OR FINDING A FRIEND FOR YOUR SINGLE BUNNY?! Dear Friend Thank you for contacting a rescue! Over 67,000 rabbits are handed over to shelters each year the day people stop buying rabbits from pet shops is the day they will stop selling them and many fewer rabbits would be given up to rescues. I m Caroline and I ve been rescuing rabbits since 1996. The Rabbit Residence Rescue has grown dramatically over the years, due to the increasing number of rabbits being given up. When the rescue first opened I only cared for 30 rabbits, today we have over 100 rabbits at the rescue waiting to be homed and there is always a waiting list of more in need of help. For many years I ran the rescue alone but now I have an amazing team of volunteers who I couldn t survive without. We are based on 1/3 rd acre of land which was kindly donated by a supporter. We would not be rescuing rabbits today, if it hadn t have been for the generosity of this kind person who gifted the land in 2001. Some of the most common reasons for rabbits being given up are: Children losing interest in the rabbit(s) and parents not wanting the responsibility. People buying rabbits thinking they are an easy option. Unfortunately most pet shops do not give enough information about keeping rabbits and portray them as easy to look after and cheap. Aggression often a result of incorrect handling/environment etc. Owner becomes pregnant and no longer wants the responsibility of looking after the rabbits. House rabbits becoming destructive again this is sometimes due to incorrect housing/environment. Each rabbit that comes to us is neutered and vaccinated against myxomatosis and VHD before rehoming. This costs around 80 and doesn't include the daily costs for bedding and feed. If you haven t already been to visit us, I really hope you book an appointment to do so as people who visit always say how it opens their eyes to how much more there is to know about rabbits. It really helps them understand what rabbits need and why. Most visitors go away enthusiastic and excited about creating a proper home for rabbits. Others realise they just don t have the space or time to create what is needed. We are open for visitors most Saturday afternoons. Please email us to arrange an appointment. If you feel you cannot offer exactly what is requested but have already purchased a hutch and run we are willing to compromise a little and help, where possible, by advising on adjustments. Best wishes Caroline Collings (Rescue Founder and Manager) Please don t buy from a pet shop help rescued rabbits in need of a second chance!
Are rabbits right for me? So you have decided that you would like pet rabbits? This page will hopefully give you an insight into what you are taking on and whether rabbits are indeed the right pets for you and your family. Understanding of rabbits has changed since rabbits were first kept as pets and advice has consequently changed too. Here are some things you should know: They are not cheap pets (see later section on costs including accommodation, bedding, food, vets bills). They can live for 10 years or longer! Caring for rabbits properly can take up a lot of time. Rabbits are NOT an ideal starter pet for children. Because they are prey animals, they are naturally scared of being picked up and are scared of sudden movements and noise. However, they can make wonderful family pets if the parents are interested in rabbits too and lead by example, and teach children how to interact with the rabbits appropriately. They need a lot more space than the traditional idea of keeping rabbits in hutches (see later for more information on the space needed). Sufficient space allows them to show their natural behaviours and helps keep them fit, healthy and happy. They need to have a friend all current rabbit welfare advice tells as that because rabbits are sociable animals in the wild, domestic rabbits should not be kept alone they need a friend of their own kind. Anyone who has watched a pair of rabbits interacting will tell you what a loving relationship they can develop. The best pairing is male/female that have both been neutered/spayed. Other things you should know about rabbits: Rabbits are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk so they make ideal pets for those who work during the day and can spend time with them in the morning and evening. Pet rabbits should be neutered/spayed. This is the responsible thing to do in terms of avoiding unwanted pregnancies (which would mean more rabbits in need a good homes when there are so many rabbits in rescues already). It reduces their hormones and allows a pair to live happily together. It also reduces behavioral problems and prevents uterine cancer in female rabbits. (Uterine cancer is very common in rabbits and is thought to affect up to 80% of female rabbits by the time they are 6 years old.) The good news is that if you get a rabbit from a rescue, they will already be neutered/spayed. Rabbits are complicated animals but also very rewarding pets if we learn to understand them. We hope you enjoy visiting the rescue and that your visit helps explain why rabbits needs are so different from what has been portrayed by pet shops and breeders since rabbits were first thought of as pets many years ago.
Cost of keeping rabbits Spaying/neutering one rabbit will cost between 50-100 (rabbits from our rescue will already be neutered/spayed). Combined Myxomatosis and VHD vaccine costs around 30 per rabbit per year. Veterinary care for illness can run into hundreds of pounds. Insurance is around 10 per rabbit per month. Accommodation a minimum of 300. One thing to remember is that a shed or aviary won't cost any more than a run and 6ft hutch bought from a pet shop. Rabbits need plenty of warm fresh bedding, especially in winter. A soft layer of wood shavings and hutch full of straw is suggested. Bought from a pet shop these can cost around 20 per week. If you can buy from a farmer it will be cheaper. Hay is essential. If you buy from a pet shop this can cost around 7 per week and with Timothy hay and dried grass (e.g. Readigrass) add on another 20 per week. If you can buy a bale of hay it is more economical. Bowls, bottles and brushes, 20 one off. Vegetables and special willow 'toys' 10 per week. Holiday boarding costs around 7 per night. Extra costs for putting together a bunny 'first aid kit' (our rabbit care guide will provide recommendations). The RSPCA estimates that it costs around 800 in initial set up costs and then around 1500 a year to care for a pair of rabbits, and this is before unexpected vet bills. 1 1 RSPCA (2012) The time and costs involved in keeping rabbits. RSPCA companion animals pet care factsheet. http://www.rspca.org.uk/imagelocator/locateasset?asset=document&assetid=1232729413756&mode=prd
BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR KEEPING RABBITS AS PETS The Rabbit Residence Rescue ask for the following requirements. These requirements are based on current welfare advice and years of experience. DIET Hay-based diet. Hay must be available at all times. Also highly recommend dried grass (e.g. Readigrass) and Timothy hay Supreme Science Selective or Oxbow pellets. These are the only recommended commercial feeds due to ingredients, nutritional value, high fibre content and prevention of selective feeding. Supreme Selective pellets are our favourite. One handful of pellets between two rabbits once a day. Do not feed any of the mixes they are too high in calories and low in fibre. Vegetables. A handful of chopped vegetables or a couple of Spring Green leaves each day. You will receive an RWA leaflet from us listing all the different vegetables that are appropriate to feed rabbits. Introduce one at a time and monitor carefully for any digestive upset. Edible wild plants and apple, pear and willow branches are great for front teeth (ensure you know what you are feeding as some tree branches are poisonous to rabbits). Fresh drinking water. A bottle will help indicate exactly what your rabbit drinks and helps prevent contamination/infections; a bowl allows more natural drinking and gives easy access in hot weather - a bowl of warm water is appreciated in cold weather. COMPANIONSHIP Rabbits MUST live in pairs. In the wild, rabbits are sociable animals and live in colonies with subgroups of up to 8 rabbits. Domestic rabbits benefit substantially from the company of another rabbit. Whilst they live in groups in the wild, pairs generally work best for pet rabbits. It s more difficult (though possible) to get domestic rabbits to live happily in groups of more than two as there will be a natural pecking order which can lead to health and behavioural issues and make them less likely to trust humans. Whether you have a single rabbit who needs a friend or are thinking of adopting a pair, a neutered buck (male) and spayed doe (female) pairing usually works best. What about two bucks or two does? A same sex pairing is less likely to be successful long term as the majority of bucks will fight once they reach sexual maturity, even if neutered and most doe pairings will not be as content or friendly towards humans, often with one more dominant over the other. ACCOMODATION & ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHMENT Minimum size 6ft by 2ft by 2ft high hutch attached to a 10ft by 6ft by 3ft high run Like many rescues we ask anyone adopting rabbits from us to provide a minimum of a 6ft by 2ft by 2ft hutch which must be attached to minimum a 10ft by 6ft by 3ft high run (with roof). This size allows space for the rabbits to take several hops in a row, to stretch and jump. Runs are recommended to be at least 3ft high to allow them to stretch up or jump, for easier cleaning and interaction with your rabbits, and so that environmental enrichment items can be placed in the run (e.g. a nest box that the rabbits can sit on as well as in). Using a shed/wooden playhouse instead of a hutch or a design more like a bird aviary instead of a run is becoming more popular and is often more cost effective. Wooden-framed runs with weld mesh are stronger than metal runs. It is important to think about providing shade in the run in the summer and some shelter from rain fixing a tarpaulin or corrugated plastic may be helpful. (Not all enclosures will be exactly
the size and shape described here - we often work to a rule of thumb of requiring a minimum 60 square foot of space, secure from predators and digging out.) Hutch (or equivalent) must be attached to the run, not separate. The hutch, shed or playhouse provide a place for the rabbits to retreat to so they feel safe and provides shelter from the weather. Thus the hutch (or equivalent) and run should be attached so the rabbits have more total space, can choose whether to be inside or outside and can access the hutch (their bolt hole) if they feel threatened. A separate hutch and run would also mean more frequently picking them up which is scary for them and decreases their trust of humans. Free range play in the garden UNDER SUPERVISION Rabbits love to run about in lots of space, and we highly recommend exercise time in the garden, as long as the fences are secure. However, if the garden is large and the rabbits slightly nervous it may be difficult to train them to come home sectioning off an area of the garden adjacent to the main rabbit enclosure may be a sensible option in this case. Also, it is VERY important to only allow free range play when you are supervising them. We have heard many tragic cases of rabbits killed in owner s gardens by foxes or other predators sometimes this has happened in the day time, and when the owners were home but not actually watching the garden. Please be cautious even if you have high fences and have never seen a predator in your garden it only takes a minute for a rabbit to be killed or injured. Places to dig and hide. Rabbits love the freedom to leap and jump about but they are prey animals and are very aware of threats so plenty of boxes to hide in will make them more relaxed and content. They also have many natural behaviours such as burrowing and digging small scoops to toilet in to mark their territory, so space to do this will prevent this being unwanted nuisance behaviour. Indoor rabbits. Rabbits living indoors need a similar amount of space, and should preferably be free range in a whole room or the whole house. Alternatively puppy panels can be used to section off a minimum 60 sq ft area as the rabbits main area with access to a bigger area when you are at home. They will need an area to call their own and places to hide. Some supervised access to a garden for play and sunlight are also advised. PROTECTION AGAINST PREDATORS FOXES CATS DOGS VANDALS BIRDS OF PREY STOAT Depending on the location of your house and design of your garden, what you will be able to offer a pair of rabbits will vary. Security measures may have to be higher for some people, such as security lights, concrete base for run, a wooden trellis put over the wire mesh run frame to help prevent foxes biting through and padlocks. (www.foxolutions.co.uk is a useful website.) SUITABLE VET CARE Make sure you search for a rabbit friendly, experienced vet and ask the right questions. See how they handle the rabbit. A rabbit will be calm with a confident vet. With so many animals, all vets will have their favourite species. Knowledge on curing rabbit diseases, surgery possibilities and understanding what medicines work best is changing so much thanks to the Rabbit Welfare Fund funding Bristol University to specialise in rabbit veterinary studies. There are many common ailments you need to be aware of, so do buy the recommended books included in our rabbit care handbook (which will be provided on adoption). HANDLING/ WELFARE/ HAPPINESS Rabbits are ground loving and do not like to be picked up and cuddled. They are prey animals and being picked up by a human is like being picked up by a predator. Some rabbits will struggle, scratch or bite to
get away. Others may appear not to mind but this may be a fearful freeze response. Sometimes it is necessary to pick the rabbits up, such as for health checks, but minimising how often you pick them up and interacting with them mostly at ground level, will result in them trusting you more and being more sociable with you. Rabbits can break their back or limbs if they jump out of the arms of someone holding them. Rabbits have often been portrayed as easy children s pets, that only live in hutches and don t do anything these are misconceptions. They are intelligent animals and are extremely sensitive to noise and chaos. They have deep emotions and will be living in fear and display stress behaviours if kept only in a hutch and if children are noisy around them and make rapid movements. Adults need to lead by example and show children how to interact calmly with the rabbits at ground level. If handled, loved and cared for correctly you will bond with your rabbits as much as a family pet dog and also recognise the subtle signs of illness, therefore preventing serious irreversible problems. You will find that your rabbits are likely to be affectionate towards you but this will be on their terms, not yours! If they feel safe and comfortable in their environment they will be relaxed and happy to let you stroke them. Interacting with them at ground level will lead to them trusting you more. HYGIENE Keep living area clean and hygienic. Litter training your rabbit and changing the toilet areas every couple of days will prevent wooden homes getting damaged and discourage bacterial and fungal growth. Various disinfectants for rabbit enclosures are available. Some will kill viruses while others only smell nice or kill mites and fleas. Regularly health check your rabbits. Rabbits are prone to fly strike which can be deadly if not caught and treated very quickly. This is when flies are attracted to the rabbit if they have a dirty bottom or dirty living area. They lay eggs on the rabbit, which turn into maggots, which eat the rabbit alive. You should stroke and look over your rabbit daily and pick it up every couple of days to have a thorough look to ensure its bottom is clean and has no lumps or bumps. We can teach you to do a health check and help you gain confidence.
Old style rabbit housing These images may be very familiar to you. They represent what people used to think made a satisfactory rabbit home. Understanding of rabbits has moved on and advice on rabbit welfare has changed. The reasons why such accommodation does not make happy bunnies are: The runs are no more than 3-4 ft long (1 metre) and no more than 4ft wide and therefore no rabbit can hop or skip freely. The average pet shop hutch is 4ft by 18 inches and average run 4ft by 8ft, a mere 32 square feet. This is not enough space! (A rabbit in the wild can cover 5 miles in a day.) They are bare and provide no places to dig, move freely or hide. People will often move them around; this constantly unsettles the rabbits territory and boundaries they so carefully mark with toilet and scents to make them feel safe. The owner cannot get in the run, which reduces opportunities for the rabbits to befriend and trust the person. The owner can only tower over the rabbit and grab it just like a fox would. The hutches are not off the ground so ground frost and dampness will be an issue. The hutches have so little depth that rain and snow will soak the whole area. A rabbit produces many droppings which will fill this small space so quickly that you will have to clean the whole area at least once a day to prevent bacteria growing. A rabbit sitting in wet soiled bedding will become cold and wet with dirty fur and will become prone to fly strike. Visualise the space these enclosures provide. Now imagine, in scale, yourself in that space; are you in your entire house, bedroom or downstairs toilet? Even if it compares to your entire house, imagine never being allowed out, or only once a week for a few hours Rabbits need enough space to move around freely, stretch, run and jump. Research evidence has now proved that rabbits kept in more spacious accommodations display more of their natural behaviours.
Rabbit housing today Outdoor rabbit homes In the last decade or two, understandings of the welfare needs of rabbits have improved and the importance of allowing plenty of space has been recognised. The accommodation size recommendations were outlined earlier in this document. Here is a selection of good rabbit enclosures to give you some ideas for how to create an excellent rabbit home that will make your bunnies very happy.
For more examples have a look at our website: http://www.rabbitresidence.org.uk/success-stories.html
Here are some companies that may be worth investigating when )designing or re-designing your bunny accommodation: www.runaboutruns.com - have standard design runs and build bespoke runs and aviaries to order www.westhagleyaviaries.co.uk - sell aviary panels www.aviarieworld.com - build aviaries to order for very reasonable prices they built the aviaries at the rescue www.welfarehutches.co.uk look for the 6ft hutches and also the runs www.rehutches.com - look for 6ft hutches on their site, ignore the smaller ones www.happyhutch.co.uk - look for the 6ft hutches; they also sell aviary panels www.ukrabbithutches.co.uk/largerabbithutches.html - they make 7ft x 3ft x 3ft hutches www.facebook.com/pages/custom-hutches-and-runs/151646258199780 - will build to order www.4littlepaws.co.uk they have 6ft hutches www.shedstore.co.uk - reasonably priced sheds and playhouses www.runaround.co.uk - we like their pipes that can be used to connect a hutch and run if your garden is awkwardly shaped http://stores.ebay.co.uk/kevins-kennels - sells outdoor dog kennels/runs Tips Their home needs to provide them with shelter from rain, wind, snow and heat. Their home needs to be secure from predators. This makes it stress free for us while we are not around/ more flexibility for us. Their hutch/shed/playhouse will become the place where they feel safe. They will mark this as their territory. Having a run separate to the hutch/playhouse/shed is not recommended because being moved to a separate run would therefore make them feel less secure (as well as involving the scary process of being picked up more often than is necessary). Ramps are not good for old, large breed or arthritic rabbits Metal runs that can be bought from pet shops are often not big enough and the wide gaps means a predator might be able to injure the rabbits. Fitting lino to the floor of the shed/hutch/playhouse can help make the wooden floor last longer (this needs to be fitted securely at the edges to prevent the rabbits chewing it). Alternatively a coat of emulsion paint can help the wood last longer. Provide toys and environmental enrichment to prevent boredom e.g. willow toys, tunnels, toilet rolls stuffed with hay, cardboard box with holes cut in. (Have a look at www.thehayexperts.co.uk for toys.) To ensure the bunnies cannot dig out, and predators cannot dig in, the enclosure should be built on paving slabs or wire mesh should be dug under the ground. (The mesh shouldn t be directly under foot as this can lead to bunny feet getting sore or getting caught in the mesh.) The rabbits need a sheltered bedroom area large enough for a pair of rabbits to sit or lie together. This provides somewhere to keep warm and cosy and a place to retreat to if they sense danger.
Indoor rabbit homes The same principles of space and needing places to hide and enrichment apply to indoor rabbit homes. Preferably the rabbits should have access to a whole room. Sometimes indoor rabbits will have their own pen for use at all times (minimum 60 sq ft), and then be let out free range in more of the house when the owners are at home. Some owners allow the rabbits free range of several rooms or of the whole house all day and night. We will not home rabbits to live indoors if you or someone else in the family smokes inside your home. Some tips on having rabbits indoors are given below. Baby gates/pet gates can be useful in preparing for indoor rabbits. Wire mesh attached to the gate can be used to prevent bunnies getting their heads stuck in the wide gaps. Litter trays will be needed for toileting (place in a corner). These can be filled with newspaper, woodshavings (or similar) and hay. A dog crate or similar can be used to provide a home base for the bunnies but the rabbits should not be shut in as these at any time as they will not provide the minimum 60 sq ft of space. Be careful of whether the rabbits could catch their feet on the entrance of a cage. Indoor plastic cages sold by pet shops are not recommended. If you already have one and can turn it into a safe den for the bunnies then they can serve a purpose. Please place a thick blanket over the roof of the cage as a rabbit that jumps on top can get a foot caught in the bars, panic and injure themselves. Again, do not shut the bunnies in. Providing enough hiding places where the bunnies can hide if they feel worried is very important for indoor bunny homes. We strongly recommend having at least one wooden nest box big enough for both rabbits to comfortably hide in, as well as several tunnels and cardboard boxes with door holes cut into them. The best room for indoor rabbits to live in is a spare bedroom so they have their own space and peace and quiet. Alternatively another room where there isn t constant traffic through the room may be appropriate. Conservatories are not a good option as they get too hot in summer and cold in winter bunnies do not cope well with temperature extremes or temperature changes. Tiled or laminated surfaces allow easy cleaning, but they are often slippery and rabbits can slip when moving quickly potentially causing injury. We strongly recommend adding some rugs or washable nonslip mats or carpet tiles. Be warned, rabbits naturally like to chew! They may well chew your furniture, the bottom of your curtains, and wires. You will need to think about protecting your bunnies from dangers such as wires and protecting furnishings that you do not want damaged by your rabbits. Wires should be strategically placed out of harms way and/or protected with plastic wire casing. Think about how to protect expensive furnishings or keep them out of reach. Also make sure that you provide safe twigs and toys that the rabbits can chew for distraction though this will not necessarily ensure the safety of your home-furnishings.
Note that the small run in the photo above is the bunnies base but they are never shut into it as it would be too small. Wooden nest boxes are strongly recommended as bolt holes as part of indoor bunny set-ups.
So what happens now.? Hopefully the information in this booklet has given you some things to think about. The adoption process is illustrated below. Make an appointment to visit. We are open most Saturday afternoons. Please email rabbit_residence@hotmail.com or ring 07904 397378 to book an appointment. Your visit On your visit you will be given a short talk and tour, can see examples of good rabbit homes, chat about ideas for the bunny home you can offer and meet some of the rabbits available for adoption. You will also be able to ask any questions. Your application The adoption process involves completing an application form and sending us photos of your rabbit accommodation when it is ready. With good photos it may not be necessary to conduct an advance home-check but if someone s set-up is less standard and it s difficult to assess the accommodation adequately from photos we normally carry out a home-check. Adopting a pair of rabbits If you are adopting a pair, once you are approved for adoption, we will then arrange a date with you to deliver your rabbits to you. Adopting a friend for your single rabbit If you are adopting one rabbit to be friends with your current rabbit, once you are approved for adoption we will then arrange a date with you for you to bring your bunny in to be bonded at the rescue. You would pick your preferred partners for him/her and we would try them in order until there is a good match. Bonding usually takes around a week, depending on how quickly we find a match. Bonding is conducted at the rescue as it provides neutral territory (increasing the likelihood of success) and if your rabbit does not like the first choice of partner the next can be tried easily. Also, Caroline is experienced in bunny bonding, reading their behaviours and administering first aid if any minor scuffles occur. We have a very high success rate with bondings and whilst the process may seem a little daunting most rabbit specialist rescues operate similarly. Once bonded, Caroline will arrange to deliver the pair to you. Delivery Caroline will deliver the rabbits to you. If no home-check has already been carried out, this is done before our rabbit(s) is/are signed over to you. We look forward to meeting you when you visit, and hopefully rehoming to you.