KOOTENAI / SHOSHONE 4-H DOG PROGRAM AGILITY TRAINING RESOURCE GUIDE & EXHIBITION RULES

KOOTENAI / SHOSHONE 4-H DOG PROGRAM AGILITY TRAINING RESOURCE GUIDE & EXHIBITION RULES Revised: March 2004

Training Your Dog for Agility Level 1 W EEK 1 Objectives and goals of Agility practice. 1. Verbal control a. Need to be able to call dog to handler b. Need to be able to call dog off obstacle 2. Dog s response to commands a. Need for dog to LISTEN to handler and ignore distractions b. Dog does obstacle / jump on command c. Dog waits and listens for command 3. Working away from handler a. Dog stays and handler call dog over obstacle b. Dog goes out to obstacle on handler s command c. Dog observes contact zones Physical and emotional maturity are a MUST for an agility dog. Dogs must be 12 months old to do agility and for larger breeds 18 months is recommended. Leader discretion should be used. NO bitch in heat will be allowed at practice or in an agility match. NO pregnant bitches will be allowed to practice jumps or contact obstacles. They may practice the pause box, tunnels and weave poles. If a dog is lame or injured, it will not be allowed to practice until the condition is corrected. Dogs with hip dysphasia will not be allowed to do agility. The dog s and handler s attitude is very important. If a dog is overly aggressive towards other dogs or people, or it is out of control on lead, it will be excused until the problem is corrected. If a dog is very shy or fearful, special training should be done to help overcome the problem. Decide when and where practice will be held. 1. Who will be in charge of set up/tear down of equipment. Everyone should help. 2. What adults will be present at practices. Equipment : Buckle collar and 6 leash. Choke chains are NOT allowed under any circumstances; this is for safety reasons. If the dog needs a choke chain, it is not ready for agility. Make sure all of the dogs respond to their names when called. NAME GAME Have dogs and handlers in a circle with about 5 between each pair. The leader comes up to each dog and pets them, talking to the handler. The handler then calls the dog by name, the dog should respond by looking at or moving toward the handler. The next time around the leader claps his/her hands or squeaks a toy instead of petting the dog. The third time the leader shows the dog some treat, the fourth time, he/she gives the dog a treat. You can make up your own variations. The object is to get the dog to respond to the handler calling it s name every time it is called. This is a good game to play at home too. 1

CATCH ME The handler walks to the end of his/her lead (with someone else holding the dog if necessary) and then turns his/her back on the dog. The handler then calls the dog s name and the word come or here. The handler then starts to run away from the dog, causing the dog to chase him/her. After about a minute the handler can allow the dog to catch them. If the dog wants to run in the other direction when the handler turns toward it, the handler turns and runs away again. This can be repeated until the dog comes to the handler. The handler then praises the dog for coming to him/her. This can also be done off lead in an enclosed area. WEEK 2 Restate objectives and goals. Check collars and leads for correct type and placement. Motivation: 1. Use of food 2. Use of ball or toy 3. Use of verbal praise and encouragement 4. Handler s attitude - If handler is tired or cranky the dog responds to this. Don t get mad at the dog, he/she is only doing what the handler tells it to. Don t nag! If one way doesn t work, try another. Verbal Commands Discuss verbal commands and the timing for each obstacle. Commands can be repeated (example: Jump, jump, jump when approaching a jump.) Emphasize having one name for each type of obstacle and using it consistently. * Make sure the dog can do each step of the training before going on to the next. A dog who learns slowly and is consistent in remembering what is learned is a far better agility dog then one who seems to learn fast but forgets at the next practice. Emphasize the constant and consistent use of command words. Introduction to: A-frame Pause table/box Bar Jumps A-FRAME (on lead) A-frame should be adjusted to 3-4 ft. height. 1. The dog should be placed at the base of the A-frame with the handler and another person on each side of the dog. 2. The handler should hold the lead fairly close to the dog s collar and the assistant should not touch the lead or collar unless absolutely necessary. 3. Have the dog walk slowly up the A-frame, giving verbal encouragement and placing food on the slats if added encouragement is needed. 4. Use the word wait or slow to keep the dog from rushing on the downward side of the A-frame. Make sure the dog touches the contact zones in both directions. Lots of praise and/or treat. 5. Turn around and repeat the procedure. 6. Practice with assistance until the dog is secure about going up the A-frame. Remember - go slowly, speed will come later. 2

Command choices for the A-F RAME are: Climb Up Frame Wall Go-up PAUSE TABLE/BOX (on lead) This obstacle is used to keep the dog under control by placing him/her in a down position for 5 seconds. Table: 1. Place table in lowest position. Handler commands dog to get on table (helping if needed), places dog in a down position for 5 seconds. If dog does not down on command, the handler should place him/her in a down physically and hold in place. Lots of praise/treat. 2. After the dog is used to getting on the table, the handler then runs toward it with the dog, and has the dog jump on the table, then downs him/her. 3. When the dog does #2 consistently the handler should then run beyond the table, stopping at the end of the lead with the dog down on the table. Box: This is usually a 3x3 foot area defined by a cone at each corner. It is taught the same way as the table except that the dog must be entirely inside the box for the 5 seconds. Command choices for the P AUSE TABLE are: Command choices for the PAUSE BOX.are: Table Box Pause Pause Up In Random Downs: As the handler is walking around with the dog in lead, stop and tell the dog down. Wait to the count of 10 to 15 (work up to it) then release the dog and give lots of praise. The command can be given with a hand signal (arm straight up above shoulder with hand flat and then brought straight down). Do not touch or come too close to the dog with the open hand. BAR JUMPS (on lead) Set bar jump at 8 for dogs under 14 and at 12 for those taller. 1. Allow dogs to sniff and investigate jumps before starting. 2. Have dog walk over jump with handler. Praise / treat. 3. Have dog stay (or have assistant hold dog) while the handler goes over the jump. Call dog over. Lots of praise / treat. 4. Have dog stay while handler goes around the jump. Call dog over. 5. Run at jump, dog and handler jump over. 6. Run at jump, dog goes over and handler around. 7. Slowly raise jumps, always keeping one bar at 12 for the larger dogs to prevent them from running under. Command choices for JUMP S: Over Hup Jump 3

WEEK 3 Check collars and leads. Review previously introduced obstacles; emphasize use of proper commands and praise. Introduction to: Open tunnel Tire jump Broad jump OPEN TUNNEL (on lead) Shorten tunnel to about 4-5 foot. 1. With an assistant holding the dog at one end of the tunnel, feed the lead through the tunnel. The handler then holds the lead at the other end and calls the dog through, pulling on the lead if necessary. Give dog lots of praise and/or treat. 2. Repeat the above until the dog goes through with the handler holding the lead. 3. Run at tunnel, giving command. The dog goes through and the handler around. 4. Lengthen the tunnel and continue until dog goes through fully extended tunnel. 5. Bend tunnel, eventually forming it into a U shape, having the dog enter the opening the handler indicates. Command choices for the OPEN TUNNEL: Tunnel Go through Go in TIRE JUMP (on lead) Allow dogs to investigate. Set tire to lowest height. Block openings at bottom of jump. 1. Assistant holds dog while handler goes to other side of the jump. The lead is passed through the jump. The dog is encouraged to jump or climb through. Lots of praise / treat. 2. Dog and handler run toward the jump. Handler drops lead to allow the dog to pass through, giving command when approaching the jump. Command choic es for the TIRE JUMP: Tire Jump Hup ** SAFETY TIP ** Make sure the handler is close enough to pick up the lead when the dog has gone through the jump, but not so close as to interfere with the dog. 4

BROAD JUMP (on lead) Start with one board for dogs under 14 and two boards for those over 14. Place boards close together. 1. Dog and handler jump boards together. Give command and jump. Do not praise or treat the dog if the dog walks on the board. 2. After dog is consistently jumping the board(s) with handler, the handler places the dog in a stay and goes over the board to the other side, then calls the dog over. Lots of praise / treat for jumping the obstacle. 3. Increase the number of boards and then increase the distance between them. Final distances are: Dogs under 10 - Dogs under 14 - Dogs under 20 - Dogs over 20 - jump 16 (2 boards) jump 24 (3 boards) jump 36 (3 boards with equal spacing) jump 48 (4 boards with equal spacing) 4. Run toward jump, send dog over. Command choices for the BROAD JUMP: Jump Over Hup Broad W EEK 4 Review previous obstacles going on to next step as the dog is ready. 1. Re-emphasize the use of proper and consistent commands and the use of praise and/or treats. 2. If a dog is regressing or refusing an obstacle, etc. try to determine why there is a problem and come up with a solution. Possible Problems Solution 1. Bailing off obstacle - Going too fast Teach dog command words like slow, wait, or easy. Hold leash closer to collar and don t allow the dog to have his/her way. 2. Jumping off sideways Go back to slowly walking dog over obstacle holding leash near collar. 3. Knocking off jumps Lower jump height; jump over jump with dog. 4. Going around jumps Go back to calling dog over jump, praise! Check handler position, is handler interfering with the dog? 5. Backing out of tunnel Shorten tunnel until dog is comfortable. 5

DOG WALK (on lead) Having equipment as low as possible. 1. Place dog at end of dog walk with handler on one side and an assistant on the other. 2. The handler should hold the dog s lead fairly close to the collar. 3. Have the dog walk slowly up the ramp, placing food ahead of the dog if necessary. 4. Use your hands and body to prevent the dog from jumping off, do not yank on the lead or choke the dog. Use slow, easy or wait to prevent the dog from rushing on the down ramp. 5. After the dog is comfortable going over the dog walk with help on both sides, slowly lengthen the lead and allow him/her to go over it without help. 6. Slowly increase speed. 7. Don t forget proper command and praise / treat at every step. Comm and choices for the DOG WALK. Go up Walk Bridge Walk over WEEK 5 Review previous obstacles and any problems. TEETER (on lead) Safety is stressed. The dog should not leave the obstacle until it has dropped to the ground. 1. The dog is placed at the end of the teeter that is on the ground with the handler and assistant on either side of the dog. A third person is needed to slowly drop the teeter. 2. Slowly walk the dog up the teeter, stopping the dog when the balance point is reached (the point where the teeter starts moving). Teach the dog wait or stay. 3. Slowly move the dog past the balance point, using hands and bodies to keep the dog on the teeter. Lots of praise! The third person slowly drops the teeter to the ground as the dog is walking forward. The dog should walk off the teeter when it has reached the ground. 4. Continue this until the dog will walk over the teeter when it drops by itself. 5. Approach the teeter at a fast pace, allow the dog to reach the balance point, use verbal wait command, allow dog to drop the teeter and walk off. Praise! Comma nd choices for the TEETER: Teeter See-saw Go up WEEK 6 Review obstacles. Discuss problems, safety issues and attitudes of dogs and handlers. Continue working on problem obstacles. Introduce any unfamiliar jumps - solid high jump, wall jump, etc. Set up a simple circurlar course, mixing jumps with obstacles. 6

WEEK 7 Review obstacles, continue working on problems. Set up different shaped courses: U-shaped, figure 8, M or N shapes. Encourage handlers to know where they are going. Work on speed and motivation. Discuss setting up courses efficiently, using a course design provided by the judge. WEEK 8 & 9 Review obstacles and discuss problems. Play Games. W EEK 10 Warm ups (review) on obstacles. Set up full length course. Obstacles may be used more than once. Have each dog and handler run the course, with course and time faults added together. In case of a tie the fastest time wins. The winner doesn t have to help put away equipment. RELAY AGILITY GAMES A. 2 or more dogs of the same height on a team. Each dog runs the course, handing a baton to the next dog on the team, until all have run. Time and course faults are added together for the team. B. 2 dogs, of different jump heights, each doing one-half of the course. Time and course faults are added together. OOPS! (Fault and change) Two dogs of the same jump height make a team. A course is set with the pause table or box in the center. One dog starts on the table and runs ½ the course, returning to the table. If the dog faults, a whistle blows and the dog must return immediately to the table, then the other pair tries that part of the course. If that pair faults, the whistle blows again and they must return to the table; then the first pair tries again. This continues until both halves of the course are finished with no whistle (no faults). The team with the least faults wins. 7

JUMPERS This is a timed race over jumps. The broad jump and tire jump can be used with the regular jumps. Jumps may be taken more than once in order to make a decent sized course. A tunnel can be placed on the course as an added obstacle, if desired. GAMBLERS A. Obstacles are given a point value, placed randomly on a field. Examples: Jumps - 1pt.; Teeter - 5pt.; Tunnel - 3 pt. A gamble is designated, usually 2 or 3 obstacles. The dog/handler pair is given a time (45-60 sec.) to gather points. Each obstacle may be taken twice; no points are given for a faulted obstacle. A whistle then blows and the dog must successfully complete the gamble. 10-15 sec. is given for the gamble, depending on the difficulty. This time starts as soon as the whistle blows. Examples of a gamble: the teeter and then a turn to the pause table, or two jumps, off-set from each other, and then to the pause table. Usually the gamble ends at the pause table or a line drawn on the edge of the field. The game usually starts with the dog on the pause table also. B. For Levels 2a & 2b, the gamble is usually done with the handler some distance from the dog, thus the handler must give the dog verbal directions to complete the gamble. * All of these games may be played either on or off lead. Training Your Dog for Agility Level 2 These levels of agility are for dogs that are ready for off-lead work. It is an absolute MUST that these dogs be under the control of their handlers. Dogs of these levels should practice with Level 1 dogs. The emphasis should be on motivation, speed, and above all, control. By these levels the dog should know and respond to the obstacle commands given by the handlers. In Level 2a, bait is allowed for encouragement, in Level 2b it is not. After passing Level 2b, a dog and handler should be able to compete in a regular agility match. W EEK 1 - Same as Level 1. WEEK 2 Introduction to: Weave poles Closed tunnel 8

WEAVE POLES Weaves poles are set into a framework to hold them upright or pounded directly into the ground. There can be anywhere form 5-12 poles in a set. After the dog has learned the weave poles, it is best to do random number sets so that the dog does not get patterned into doing only odd or even numbers of poles. This exercise is difficult for dogs to learn and motivation is very important. It is also a good idea to teach the dog to work off either side of the handler s body, although the basics must be learned first. There are two ways to teach the weave poles: 1. This method is done on lead. The dog and handler are on the right side of the weave poles, with the dog s head about even with the first pole. The handler then holds the dog s collar, directing the dog through the poles, giving the command chosen for this obstacle. This is done repetitively, until the dog gets the idea of weaving in and out of the poles. Use lots of praise and food treats. Once the dog has a general idea of what the handler wants, the handler can hold the leash to direct the dog. When the handler feels confident that the dog knows what it is doing, the leash may be removed and the dog directed through the poles using a hand motion or bait in the hand held before the dog s nose. Praise continually and treat after a successful completion. Do not bump the dog through the poles with your body or push through with your hand at this stage. If the dog doesn t seem to do it right, go back to on lead. After the dog consistently does the weave poles at a slow pace, start building up speed. Work up speed very slowly and give lots of praise. 2. Method 2 involves lining a parallel set of weave poles with a soft plastic mesh. This allows the dog to make no mistakes. You start the dog on lead to get him/her familiar with the set-up, then send the dog through off lead, giving him/her a treat when finished with each run. The one problem with this method is that sometimes dogs need to be reminded that once the mesh is taken away, the weave poles are the same obstacle that they had been practicing. Command choices for WEAVE POLES: (use of a cadence is helpful) Weave/Weave In/Out Weave/Here ** Dogs always enter the weave poles from the right side ** 9

CLOSED TUNNEL The closed tunnel entry looks similar to the open tunnel, after the entry there is about 12 feet of material attached. The material should be lightweight but opaque. If a dog is shy or startles easily, before this obstacle is taught the handler should get the dog used to the feel of something dragging across his/her back. 1. Shorten up the material used for the tunnel. 2. Have an assistant hold the dog at the open end of the tunnel. The handler lifts the material at the other end and calls the dog through. Praise! 3. Same as step 2, except the handler holds the material up slightly. Praise! 4. Same as step 2, only lengthen the tunnel. Continue until tunnel is fully extended. 5. Same as step 3, except tunnel is flat. 6. Run with dog to tunnel, dog goes through and handler runs along side. It may be helpful to have someone to block the entry the first few times the dog enters on his/her own. 7. Run to tunnel, send dog through. ** Safety Tip ** Never allow the dog to get caught/tangled in the material and start spinning. Command choices for the CLOSED TUNNEL: Tunnel Go in Go through W EEKS 3-6 Work on accuracy, speed and control WEEK 7 Same as Level 1, except discuss designing courses. WEEKS 8-10 Same as Level 1 TEACHING RIGHT AND LEFT ADDITIONAL TRAINING TIPS Right and left refers to the dog s right and left shoulder, not the handler s. If the dog is facing you, the dog s right is on the handler s left. The handler can place R and L on the back of their hands for reminders if needed. 1. Put the dog on a leash and go for a walk, keeping the dog fairly close to your side. Every time you turn right say the word right and every time your turn left, say left. Do this whenever you take the dog for a walk. When you feel the dog has the general idea go on to step 2. (This usually takes a week or two if you walk them every day) 2. Set up two jumps about 8 feet apart. Put the dog in a sit in the center 10-12 from the jumps and go about the same distance on the other side in the center. Call the dog over a jump, giving a correct command and pointing to the jump. If the dog seems confused, walk toward the jump encouraging him/her until the dog does it correctly. Do this until the dog takes the correct jump consistently. Don t forget praise and a treat. Also, don t forget, it s the dog s right or left, not yours. 10

TEACHING RIGHT AND LEFT (continued) 3. Run at the jumps with the dog and indicate right or left. This works better if the dog will work in front of you, away from, or off either side. Slowly move the jumps apart and off-set them. 4. When the dog does the jumps reliably, move on to indicating pieces of equipment to be taken. Don't forget the command word with the right/left command. Ex: Right-jump, tunnel-left, tire-right. You can also teach direction by throwing a ball saying the right or left command until the dog moves correlty using the word only. TEACHING GO-OUTS Find something that excites the dog - food, a ball, a stick, etc. Use a command word - go, scram, get away, go out, etc. 1. When using food, put the dog in a stay and then place the food on a target about 20 feet from the dog. Go back to the dog and then, giving the command word, send the dog after the food. Do not have the dog come back to you; you run up to the dog or give a wait command. Move the food and target around so that the dog does not always go in one direction. Slowly remove the food, so that the dog gets it every other time, then every third time, then randomly. Always praise. Next send the dog to various obstacles, with the target placed on the opposite side. Finally, remove the target and randomly treat the dog for going out correctly. 2. When using retrieve objects, starts as in #1. Place the dog in a sit, throw the object and give the command word. DO NOT let the dog bring the object back to you, but run to the dog or give a wait command. Continue as in #1, eventually randomly throwing the object; when you don t throw it, pretend that you are. The hand motion re-enforces the verbal command. Don t forget praise. WORKING OFF RIGHT AND LEFT SIDES Use a command word for each side, Ex: here for your left and side for your right. 1. Start with the dog on lead. As you are walking along, give the command word and pull the dog to the correct side. Praise. Continue doing this until the dog responds on its own. Always have the dog make the change behind you, this is so you won t trip over the dog. 2. Start working faster so that eventually the dog makes the change consistently at a run. Now take the dog off lead and have fun. CLASSES / EVALUATION CRITERIA Levels: Level 1a - on lead with bait No teeter or weave poles Level 1b - on lead without bait No weave poles Level 2a - off lead with or withou t bait; handler has the option to return to Level 1b if the dog is off course 2 times Level 2b - off lead without bait - includes weave poles and closed tunnel {*Note: Lev el 1 and Level 2 performances are judged as two separate classes} Jump Heights: Height of Dog Jump Height 10 and under 8 10½ - 14 12 14½ - 20 18 20½ and over 24 11

Course Times Levels 1 a & 1b - 1.5 yd/sec. for 8 and 12 jump heights 1.75 yd/sec. for 18 and 24 jump heights Levels 2a & 2b - 2 yd/sec. All levels have an additional 5 sec. for the pause table/box. F aults: Five faults (5 points) deducted for each of the following: a. Touching dog b. Dog jumping on handler c. Failure to touch both contact zones on an obstacle. d. Knocking down poles e. Walking over the broad jump f. Failure to complete obstacle when committed (2 paws on obstacle, 2 paws in tunnel, jumping off obstacle or pause table, etc. ) Time Faults: One fault (1 point) for each second or fraction thereof over the allotted time Di squalifications: The entry shall be disqualified and receive a white ribbon if: a. Dog leaves course no longer working b. Picking up dog before going across stopping line The entry shall be disqualified and receive no ribbon if: a. Dog on course before run time b. Handler on course before walk through (except if handler is helping set up course) c. Going across stopping line. d. Abusive or foul language towards dog, handlers or others. e. Abusive behavior such as, but not limited to: hitting, kicking, pulling tail, pulling hair, etc. at the judge s discretion. Disabled Handlers: Exhibitors with disabilities are encouraged to participate in Agility classes. The judge will consider each case individually, then make fair and suitable adjustments in evaluating the disabled handlers. The judge s decision shall be final. Courses and indivdual course times may be altered to accommodate handlers with disabilities. Hearing or verbally impaired handlers may use clickers or squeakers to aid in running their dog through the course. Judges may use flags or relay signals to a course steward who will use a flag to communicate with the handler, if necessary. When a course time adjustment is needed, it is suggested to have the handler test run the course without their dog, going from obstacle to obstacle at a reasonable rate for the handler. The judge will record the time using a stopwatch and determine an adjusted course time time for that handler, making sure to record the adjusted course time on the appropriate scoresheet. All disabled handlers needing an adjusted course time must inform the show registration committee when checking-in to pickup their exhibitor number. The judge will be notified prior to the start of the event. K:4-H\Dog\Agility\Agility-revised.doc Revised 3/8/04 12