The Gloster Canary Champion Breeders Almanac

First published in 2015 by Beaverlac Publications This edition published in 2016 Copyright Dave Rands 2015 Revised edition copyright Dave Rands 2016 Legal Notice: - The author, his publishers, agents, resellers, or distributors assume no liability or responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any damage or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the use of and the advice given in this publication. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permission. Excerpts may be used with proper credit and contact information (address, telephone number, or website URL of the publisher and author) The Publisher or Author assumes no responsibility for any injury and /or damage and/or financial loss sustained to persons or property as a matter of the use of this material. While every effort has been made to ensure reliability of the information within, the liability, negligence or otherwise, or from any use, misuse or abuse of the information contained or any methods, strategies, instructions or ideas contained in the material herein is the sole responsibility of the reader. Printed in the United Kingdom To contact Dave Rands E Mail: dave@daverands.com URL Address: http://daverands.com

Introduction The following pages have been written for the purpose of conveying to any newcomer to the Gloster Canary fancy or any breeder interested in how I carry out my annual breeding plan which is drawn from personal experience of over thirty years of breeding Gloster Canaries. I hope that it will provide a month by month to do list of essential jobs around the bird room for novice breeders and also interesting and instructive reading for any established breeders wanting an insight into the working plan of my bird room. I ve included a copy of the Gloster Fancy Canary Council rules and Gloster Standard and classifications for quick reference. Also you will find a copy of a Breeding Register and Breeding Stock Sheets you can print out and use for your record keeping. I hope you find this little publication useful and I wish you much success with your birds. If you have any questions or just what to get in touch go to http://daverands.com/contact and drop me a line. Don t take it too seriously remember it s only a hobby! Dave Rands (The Gloster Canary Guy)

January To do list of essential jobs in January. January is the time to make any major alterations to the bird room. 1. Deep clean, repair and repaint all breeding cages where necessary. 2. Provide full spectrum lighting, increasing it slightly each week, approximately 15 20 minutes before dawn per week. TIP Be sure to gradually add any artificial light otherwise you could induce a false moult and possibly stress. Canaries require approximately 14 hours of daylight to be able to raise their chicks successfully. 3. Start your program for dealing with mite for the next breeding season. 4. Now's the time to plan your season's feeding methods and introduce any new seeds or soft foods. Start midway through January to feed birds with egg food and conditioning seed once a week. Birds should still be fed mixed canary seed and have access to fresh water and grit feed every day.

February To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Buy in what is needed for the season. Nesting bowls, nest felts, nesting material, seeds, egg food and supplements. 2. Begin the conditioning of your breeding stock by increasing egg food and conditioning seed. 3. Place your selected cocks into double breeding cages with a perch on both far ends of the cage as this will help increase their fitness. 4. Offer regular bath water or spray and slowly begin to increase soft food, fruit and vegetables. 5. Now is the time for careful observation, some preparation and increased attention to detail, carefully watch your birds and select any possible pairings for the upcoming breeding season. 6. Check your bird's claws and vents and trim as necessary.

March To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Dust your birds with mite powder, diatomaceous earth or ivermectin drops. Or use the method for mite control you prefer. 2. All bird's diet should have an increase in protein to boost their fitness and provide enough strength for the laborious and punishing breeding season ahead. This can be achieved in various ways including supplements, eggs and soaked seeds. Increase the offerings of greens, fruit and vegetables. 3. Prepare nesting bowls needed. 4. Place chosen breeding pairs side by side in double breeding cages separated by divider and bring the birds together when fully paired up and ready for mating. 5. If you have opted for additional lighting to have an early breeding season, introduce the cocks and nest pans to any hens displaying breeding fitness over a few days.

April To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Pair up any remaining birds that are showing signs of health, fitness and an eagerness to breed. 2. To have success you must be organised at this time more than ever. Any records such as wall charts, calendars, cage cards should be kept up to date with relevant information, such as, which pairs are laying, which pairs are due to hatch or which chicks need to be rung. 3. Be vigilant, with the increased workload for your birds and yourself things can be overlooked easily. Check new hatched chicks for the dreaded Black Spot 4. With chicks hatching it is important to maintain a good and varied diet. Feed small amounts regular and often.

May To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. By now you may well have young birds in the weaning cages, if things have gone to plan. Be sure the young birds are eating for themselves before moving them to the weaning cages. 2. Reintroduced cocks in time to fertilise the second round of eggs with the relevant hens if you are breeding in trios. 3. Introduce new nest bowls allowing the hen to get ready for second round. Be vigilant, the parent birds may attempt to pluck the chick's feathers to nest build if they do not have enough access to nesting material (cotton wool). 4. Remove chicks before any hens start to incubate her second round so they do not disturb her.

June To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Early fledglings should now be in flights or weaning cages and any in weaning cages can be moved to flight cages when ready 2. Selected youngsters from earlier rounds, can now begin their show cage training 3. Pairs that have finished breeding should now be separated and put into flights or flight cages.

July To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Continue separating breeding pairs. 2. House your potential show team of Glosters in individual cages. This will help prevent other birds ruining their feathers. 3. Start training your young show team to remain calm while in the show cage. 4. As your birds start to enter their moult be sure to provide them with baths on a daily basis. 5. Birds starting to moult should be given a generous, quality diet of seed, fresh fruit, vegetables, conditioning seed and soft food. 6. It is easier for general management to moult your birds in groups providing you do not overcrowd flights or cages. You can even moult your cocks and hens together, but be sure to remain vigilant in case of any squabbles or fighting. 7. Deep clean cages when they become vacant.

August To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Keep feeding birds egg food & conditioning seed, make sure there is adequate protein and calcium in their diets to aide the production of feathers. Put a bath in for birds, (or spray them as much as possible with warm water to aide the moult process). 2. Birds that come through the moult trouble free are usually the ones to keep for next year's breeding season, of course there are many other factors involved with the selection of next years breeding stock, but this should be one of them. 3. Any birds struggling to pull through the moult should be housed together in flight cages. 4. Now is the time to consider getting rid of your slow moulting birds as surplus. TIP. If electric lights have been used for breeding, start to reduce them 5. Start show cage training; get birds familiar with perches and drinkers 6. Wash, dry and tidy up show cages.

September To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Keep spraying & putting baths in for the birds especially the ones still moulting. Keep a close eye on the young birds, as some that you originally thought not good enough for your show team, may now surprise you having gone through the moult. 2. Check show cages are all in order, repair, clean and repaint them as necessary 3. Check show schedules. Have you received all the ones you need? 4. Start looking to see which birds you are going to be keeping for next year's breeding programme and which are to be moved on. Start by moving on the least desirable and slowly work your way through the birds until you have thinned out your stud enough. 5. Carry on feeding egg food & conditioning seed.

October To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. You should have picked out your potential show birds by now and put them in separate cages. 2. Do not forget to put your show entries in. Complete and return your schedules so they arrive in time for the relevant deadlines. 3. Continue with any show cage training that is required. 4. Select the birds you need for the next breeding season and move surplus birds on. 5. Light should be inline with day light hours now

November To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. The shows are going full swing now, put your entries into the show you want to enter and try rotating your show team, trying different birds at different shows. 2. You should still carry on feeding egg food and conditioning seed. TIP Spray lightly now. 3. By now you will most likely know which birds you will be keeping for next season's breeding; you know your show team now, so you can dispose of any surplus stock. When moving stock on bare in mind any newcomers to the fancy, especially juniors as they need as much encouragement as possible because these young fanciers are certainly the future of our hobby. 4. Bring in new stock 5. End of showing care of birds dip (dipping your birds three to four times at five day intervals).

December To do list of essential jobs in January. 1. Show season should be nearly at an end now. It s all about resting, feeding and general care. 2. Show cages should be washed/repaired and where necessary repainted and stored away 3. December and January is a good time to deep clean, repair and repaint your bird room and breeding cages. 4. Make sure you keep your birds fit and healthy with plenty of exercise and a nutritious diet. Egg food & conditioning seed should be fed once after your last show, then stop and only feed mixed canary seed every day with fresh water. Also provide ample opportunities for birds to bathe, but only offer them bath water early in the day allowing plenty of time for them to dry before they roost.

Gloster Canary Feeding Feeding Canaries is quite straight forward but there are a few points you need to be aware of. Throughout the year canaries needs change in line with the seasons and we can break the year down into four quarters. By adjusting the canaries feed to its needs in each quarter we can enable the bird to achieve its maximum potential in line with the wild finches in their natural habitat. Seasonal Diets. Seasonally, canaries rest between January and March, they breed between April and June, they moult between July and September, and for birds being exhibited at exhibitions, showing off their new plumage is between October and December. Matching the canary s diet to these periods is the most sensible approach and is used by most canary breeders. January to March - First Quarter. From January to March, birds are effectively resting and increasing energy reserves before the rigours of the upcoming breeding season. They enjoy access to flight cages, which allows exercise, reducing any reserves of fats that has been developing over the winter months, and ensures they approach the breeding season in peak condition. In this period, birds need to have regular access to baths, treatments against mite, trimmed claws and beaks and access to titbits such as fruit and vegetables which will ensure they remain healthy throughout the period. Soft food can also be given, starting off at once a week, and building to three or four times per week as the end of the match approaches. One word of warning, too much soft foods too soon can lead to false breeding condition. This should be avoided, particularly during the ever changing weather in the UK at this time of year. A good quality basic canary seed mixture is essential, as this forms the staple part of the birds diet and the bird should have access to the mixture at all times with fresh water being changed daily and an ample supply of grit. April to June - Second Quarter April brings in the start of the breeding season, and most breeders find an increase in soft foods is beneficial for both cock and hens. Many breeders like to provide green foods to rearing hens, but these should be offered gradually as they can have purging effects if the birds are not used to them. When hens are sitting on their eggs you will often find soft food rarely taken and a general canary mix is all that is needed during this period. The evening before the eggs are due to hatch, once again introduce soft foods as a hen will need to increase the protein content of her diet in order to successfully rear her chicks. Soaked seed can also be offered once the

chicks are four days old, always rinse off before the seed is offered. Leaving stale food in breeding cage during this period can lead to disaster in your stock so all must be cleared. When weaning, hard seed should be withheld until chicks are about five weeks old. Then feed normal mixture mixed, soft round seeds such as rape or perilla should be offered. Little and often is the statement which is used by many canary breeders over many years and this refers to the practice of providing soft foods at regular intervals throughout the day and removing any leftovers immediately. July and September - Third Quarter The moult This period is very difficult for some birds, and can be fatal for some. Moulting canaries need plenty of exercise, clean cages, and access to regular baths or spray. A rich source of food in order to successfully replace their plumage is necessary. Offer soft foods twice per day during this period and use this medium to feed any colouring agents you choose to offer your birds. Towards the end of September most of your canaries will emerge from the moult, and soft foods can be reduced to once day, then every other day as October commences. October to December - Fourth Quarter From the beginning of October, the main objective is to harden off your stock in time for the shows, so a plain seed diet of canary mix throughout the week and the odd titbit at the weekend is ideal. Some fanciers find conditioning seed is beneficial when offered in small amounts, especially through the long dark winter months. A finger drawer of conditioning seed once a week often works wonders, but do not be surprised if the cock birds burst into full song at the least provocation. Do not overdo conditioning seed, as the rich mixture, can cause stomach upsets, when used to excess. Always pay attention to basics Clean water, grits and cuttlefish should be available throughout the year, and many top breeders choose to use additives and supplements to counteract any dietary deficiencies. If choosing these additives and supplements the best advice is to stick with a single manufacturer and follow his feeding instructions to the letter. It is always best to underfeed rather than overfeed such additives and never never more than stated on the instructions.

Tips On Gloster Canary Breeding For Beginners Some of the question most frequently asked of Dave by new comers. Q. What is your number one tip for a beginner? A. When deciding to start breeding Canaries always make a plan for your bird room and how much stock you will carry. Always remember canaries are livestock and need tending each day. It always helps if other members of the family are interested and can help out with feeding and tending when you are not able to be at the bird room. Q. What should I look for when buying stock? A. Before buying your stock, visit several local shows and study which breeders do well at the shows. If they live close by contact and visit them if possible, this is always the best place for good information. Ask their advice before purchasing any breeding stock. Remember, if you are going into Gloster Canaries this is a type Canary and therefore it must be a certain shape and size. Before thinking about the colours the shape must be right first. Q. When pairing what quality should I be looking for? A. One of my hard and fast rules when pairing is not to double up on faults with the pair, i.e. if one bird is slightly lazy with the wings for instance, not holding them quite right, the other bird should show a perfect wing carriage. Q. How long do you keep feeding egg food to new chicks? A. My method is to carry on feeding egg food from leaving the nest until they have finished their moult. Also through the show season because some birds can get stressed out at a show and run off all their surplus body fat. Q. What is the best time to start breeding champion birds? A. When starting out to breed a champion bird it begins with the preparation from the end of the last show season. But I always have what I call a shutdown period for my breeding stock for about a month. The birds only get a basic canary mix seed and freshwater, nothing else. Just like the birds in the wild in their winter period, and this is the start of preparation for getting the birds fit. Q. When is the best time to do maintenance? A. All maintenance to the cages, bird room and the like, must be done in the winter period. Then you should start a programme of prevention of mite, i.e. dipping your birds three to four times at five day intervals.

Council Rules The Gloster Canary Breeders Rules laid down by the Gloster Fancy Canary Council UK & the World for your reference only, please check for updates http://www.gfcc uk.com/gfcc UK/Home.html Gloster Shows 1. Motions for the Council can be accepted from the specialist clubs at any time throughout the year and the Secretary will direct these to Council members immediately for discussion and voting on. Proposals could include proposed changes to the Constitution, or rules. All proposals and the subsequent voting on them will be published to ensure transparency. 2. A list of panel judges from Gloster Specialist Clubs to be sent to the Council Secretary each year, along with any deletions and or any alterations, and only these will appear on the Council list for that year. The list should be sent to the Council secretary by 1st June of each year. Clubs not submitting their judges panel list by 1st June each year will not be included in the current year s Council panel list. 3. To be a panel judge the required status is to be a current champion exhibitor and breeder of the Gloster Fancy Canary for five years. 4. A Gloster Judge exhibiting at a show is not permitted to judge any of the Gloster novice classes at that show. 5. When a Panel Judge leaves the fancy through illness and or other circumstances; if they return at a later date, they must serve a mandatory two years as a breeder and exhibitor of Gloster Canaries before reapplying for the position of a Panel Judge with a specialist society. 6. A partnership is two persons sharing, irrespective of addresses.

7. A contract made between a judge and a Cage Bird Society should remain both parties responsibility. If the contract is broken by either party, any complaints received should be left to the Promoting Society. 8. Striking off any Panel Judge is to be left to individual societies, notification of this action to be forwarded to the Council secretary in writing. 9. All judges must abide by the Classification details as laid down by the Council. I.e. where birds are shown in the wrong class, the cage label should be marked WC. 10. A Fancier is allowed to remain in the Novice Section for a period of seven years in total from first joining any Gloster Specialist Society. After seven years the member is obliged to move up to Champion status. A Novice may exhibit in any Gloster Classes without affecting his or her status if Novice classes are not provided. The entry form should be marked Novice. Members of the same family residing in the same household shall show under the highest status. (This is not applicable to a junior). Once a Champion always a Champion. Junior membership is from the age of eight to sixteen years. They are then obliged to move up to novice status. 11. Show cages to be of a standard specification, with perches placed at a distance of three wires either side of the centre hole. Perches should be level. Perches to be 13mm x 15mm (1/2 x 3/8) top chamfered edges. The hole on top of the cage to be kidney shaped. Drinkers to be all black, inside and out, with wire hooks. Cage labels to be attached to the left hand side of the front rail. Floor covering to be seed. Door hinge top or side is optional. Standard show cage size for Gloster Canary: Length 350mm (12 in).width 120mm (4 ¾ in). Height 255mm (10 in). Door diameter 82mm (3 ½ in)

Exterior paint to be black. Interior paint colour, Rivulet, Code on the mixing chart for 1 litre E40 L1 Z32 with Pastel base, ½ litre Dulux Matchmaker. E20 L40 with pastel base, undercoat to be White. Paint Colour to be adopted for 10 years 12. The Gloster minimum classification to be 25 Champion Classes and 25 novice Classes. Copies of the classification can be found under the classification menu. 13. Model Block and Pictorial Print of the Corona and Consort Birds to stand for 10 years. A copy of the print can be found in the Gloster Standard menu. 14. While postal and electronic voting on Specialist Clubs proposals will be encouraged, postal voting at Council Meetings will not be accepted. 15. Rules made at the Council to stand for 3 years, with the exception of honorariums to the Officers of the Council. Rules updated 9/12/2009

Gloster Canary Standard - Consort

Gloster Canary Standard - Corona

Classification Novice Gloster Fancy Canary Council UK & the World 26Buff, Dark Crest Corona Cock, Flighted 27Buff, Dark Crest Corona Hen, Flighted 28Buff Consort Cock, Flighted 29Buff Consort Hen, Flighted 30Buff, Dark Crest Corona Cock, Unflighted 31Buff Dark Crest Corona Hen, Unflighted 32Buff Consort Cock, Unflighted 33Buff Consort Hen, Unflighted 34T.P.D to Self Corona Cock, Flighted 35T.P.D to Self Corona Hen, Flighted 36T.P.D to Self Consort Cock, Flighted 37T.P.D to Self Consort Hen, Flighted 38 T.P.D to Self Corona Cock, Unflighted 39T.P.D to Self Corona Hen, Unflighted 40T.P.D to Self Consort Cock, Unflighted 41 T.P.D to Self Consort Hen, Unflighted 42 Yellow, Dark or Grizzle Crest Corona Cock Flt. Or Unflt. (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 43Yellow, Dark or Grizzle Crest Corona Hen Flt. Or Unflt. (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 44Yellow, Consort Cock, Flighted or Unlighted (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 45Yellow, Consort Hen, Flighted or Unflighted (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 46Buff Cinnamon Corona Cock or Hen Flighted. Or Unflighted. 47Buff Cinnamon Consort Cock or Hen Flighted. Or Unflighted 48White or Allied, Corona Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted 49White or Allied, Consort Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted 50Buff Clear or Grizzle Crest Corona Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted

Classification - Champion Gloster Fancy Canary Council UK & the World 1Buff, Dark Crest Corona Cock, Flighted 2Buff, Dark Crest Corona Hen, Flighted 3 Buff Consort Cock, Flighted 4Buff Consort Hen, Flighted 5Buff, Dark Crest Corona Cock, Unflighted 6Buff Dark Crest Corona Hen, Unflighted 7Buff Consort Cock, Unflighted 8Buff Consort Hen, Unflighted 9T.P.D to Self Corona Cock, Flighted 10T.P.D to Self Corona Hen, Flighted 11T.P.D to Self Consort Cock, Flighted 12T.P.D to Self Consort Hen, Flighted 13 T.P.D to Self Corona Cock, Unflighted 14T.P.D to Self Corona Hen, Unflighted 15T.P.D to Self Consort Cock, Unflighted 16 T.P.D to Self Consort Hen, Unflighted 17 Yellow, Dark or Grizzle Crest Corona Cock Flt. Or Unflt. (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 18Yellow, Dark or Grizzle Crest Corona Hen Flt. Or Unflt. (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 19Yellow, Consort Cock, Flighted or Unlighted (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 20Yellow, Consort Hen, Flighted or Unflighted (Inc. Yellow Cinnamons) 21Buff Cinnamon Corona Cock or Hen Flighted. Or Unflighted. 22Buff Cinnamon Consort Cock or Hen Flighted. Or Unflighted 23White or Allied, Corona Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted 24White or Allied, Consort Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted 25Buff Clear or Grizzle Crest Corona Cock or Hen Flighted or Unflighted

PRINT OUT Year Cock Ring or Stock card Number Breeding Register Pair / Cage Number Hen Ring or Stock Card Number Date Paired Date Laid Date Set Number of Eggs Date Due Number Hatched Number Infertile Number dead in Shell Number Broken Number Reared Remarks First Nest First Nest Second Nest Ring Number of Young Remarks Second Nest Ring Number of Young

PRINT OUT Breeding Stock _ Consort Hens No Ring Number Colour Parents Ring No Cock Hen Related Stock Cage No Yellow % Cinnamon Yes/no Notes

PRINT OUT Breeding Stock _ Corona Cocks No Ring Number Colour Parents Ring No Cock Hen Related Stock Cage No Yellow % Cinnamon Yes/no Notes

PRINT OUT Breeding Stock _ Corona Hens No Ring Number Colour Parents Ring No Cock Hen Related Stock Cage No Yellow % Cinnamon Yes/no Notes

PRINT OUT Breeding Stock _ Consort Cocks No Ring Number Colour Parents Ring No Cock Hen Related Stock Cage No Yellow % Cinnamon Yes/no Notes

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