Founded 1955 JUDGES GUIDE

CONTENTS FOREWORD... 5 HISTORY... 7 THE SMOOTH COLLIE STANDARD AN ELABORATION... 8 JUDGING THE BREED... 24 SOUNDNESS, TYPE AND MOVEMENT... 28 3

FOREWORD All judges began as exhibitors and breeders. While some have become fulltime judges, the majority of judges travel to events all over the country and adjudicate for little more than their expenses. Judges participate at this level of the sport because they are dedicated to the improvement of the sport of pedigree dogs. This Judges Guide has been put together to help you enhance your knowledge of the Smooth Collie. No single written guide is ever comprehensive enough to be the only learning tool used in preparation for judging any breed. We urge you to seek other educational opportunities to broaden your base knowledge and to see and examine as many Smooth Collies as possible. I am grateful to Pat Lister for leading this work, to Jane Howells for producing the excellent drawings which illustrate our breed and its finer points so well. Finally, thanks to Bev White for editing and collating the final document. Trevor Hayward Chairman, Smooth Collie Club of Great Britain Copyright 2006 The Officers and Committee of The Smooth Collie Club of Great Britain Text by Pat Lister and drawings by Jane Howells unless otherwise stated The copyright of the Standard of the Collie (Smooth) belongs to the Kennel Club and is reproduced by kind permission of the Kennel Club 5

HISTORY The history of the breed s origins is not clear and authors over the years have put forward a number of theories. What appears certain, however, is that the Rough and the Smooth Collie are the same breed but whilst the Rough Collie developed a long, heavy, thick coat to cope with the harsh Scottish Highland weather, the Smooth Collie's short coat is better suited to the milder, wetter Lowlands. It is this short coat which separates the two varieties and which therefore judges should consider a priority in their assessment. Most people believe that the Smooth Collie was bred to herd sheep or drive cattle and so it needed to be fit and mentally and physically agile, with the capability of being able to work for long periods at varying speeds in different weather conditions. As with all Collie breeds, their history has ensured they enjoy a close bond with people. 7

THE SMOOTH COLLIE STANDARD AN ELABORATION In 1986 the Kennel Club published the current format of Breed Standards. This was as a result of the Kennel Club wishing to have an identical consistent format for all breed standards. While in the case of the Smooth Collie the present version covers the essential points, some additional elaboration of these will certainly be required by the serious breeder, exhibitor and judge. The unified layout of the current Standard differs from previous Standards in its layout and grouping of sections and requirements. In the following elaboration, some of these qualities have been brought together in order to add clarity or emphasis. GENERAL APPEARANCE Appears as gifted with intelligence, alertness and activity. Stands with dignity governed by perfect anatomical formation, with no part out of proportion, giving appearance of working capability. CHARACTERISTICS Physical structure on lines of strength and activity, free from cloddiness and with no trace of coarseness. Expression, most important. In considering relative values, it is obtained by perfect balance and combination of skull and foreface, size and shape, colour and placement of eye, correct position and carriage of ears. TEMPERAMENT Gay and friendly, never nervous or aggressive The American Kennel Club Standard has this to say about the general character of the Smooth Collie: The Collie is a lithe, strong, responsive, active dog, carrying no useless timber, standing naturally straight and firm. The deep moderately wide chest shows strength, the sloping shoulders and firm, well bent hocks indicate speed and grace and the face shows high intelligence. The Collie presents a proud picture of true balance, each part being in harmonious proportion to every other part. Timidity, frailness, sullenness, viciousness, lack of animation, cumbersome appearance and lack of overall balance impair the general character. In addition, good temperament is paramount. When considering breeding a litter, it is of prime importance in evaluating the suitability of stock. 8

HEAD AND SKULL Figure 1 - an example of correct head and expression Head properties of great importance, must be considered in proportion to the size of dog. Viewed from front or side, head resembles a well blunted, clean wedge, being smooth in outline. Skull flat. Sides taper gradually and smoothly from ears to end of black nose, without prominent cheekbones or pinched muzzle. Viewed in profile, top of skull and top of muzzle lie in two parallel straight lines of equal length divided by a slight but perceptible stop or break. A mid-point between inside corner of eyes (which is the centre of a correctly placed stop) is centre of balance in length of head. End of smooth, wellrounded muzzle blunt, never square. Under-jaw strong, clean cut. Depth of skull from brow to underpart of jaw never excessive (deep through). Nose always black. 9

Although a flat backskull is desired, this does not mean that the bony skull is flat, as the correct flat backskull is due in great part to tissue and muscle which is determined by condition and development of the dog. The use of these muscles can be seen when evaluating expression, as the dogs moves the eyebrows to show interest and pulls the ears tighter together on the skull. Expression is an elusive characteristic. It is an angelic look, serene but keen yet interested and questioning. It is hard to explain - it comes from the perfect combination of eye shape and placement, ear carriage, correct stop, the blending of the muzzle into cheeks and foreface, which should not be overfilled, too flat, too wide or narrow. There may be many other words that could describe expression. In contrast, there are several words which define a lack of expression: dull, blank, deadpan, empty, glassy these are all undesirable in the Collie. Figure 2 - Parallel planes 10

EYES Very important feature, giving sweet expression. Medium size (never very small), set somewhat obliquely, of almond shape and dark brown in colour, except in the case of blue merles when eyes are frequently (one or both, or part of one or both) blue or blue flecked. Expression full of intelligence, with quick, alert look when listening. EARS Moderately large, wider at base, and placed not too close together nor too much on the side of the head. When in repose carried thrown back, but when alert brought forward and carried semi erect, that is, with approximately two thirds of the ear standing erect, top third tipping forward naturally, below the horizontal. Figure 3 - Relationship of ear set to eye placement Ear carriage is correct when the inside edge of the ear is in line with the corner of the eye. The proportions of the tipped ear are very important. This should be a third tipped over never a half which gives a houndy expression (especially with a wide set ear), and not tightly folded. Always feel the ear for banned substances 11

Figure 4 - The Stop a deep stop, b. no stop, c.-long stop, d. Roman nose, e. 2-angled head, f. deep through & high over and between the eyes a. b. c. d. e. f. 12

Figure 5 - The Profile a. wavy profile, b. dished profile, c.-dropped off nose, d. Roman nose, e. 2-weak underjaw & slack lip a. b. c. d. e. 13

Figure 6 - Head Faults a. wide back skull, low set ears, wide set ears, large round eyes; b. wide back skull, low set ears, wide set ears, snipy, short foreface, large round eyes a. b. 14

MOUTH Teeth of good size, jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. There should be 42 teeth: Upper Jaw: 6 incisors, 2 canines, 12 molars Lower Jaw: 6 incisors, 2 canines, 14 molars a. b. c. d. e. Figure 7 - Canine Dentition a. Collie skull; b. pincer bite, upper and lower teeth meet; c. correct scissor bite, front teeth closely overlap lower teeth; d. undershot mouth, lower jaw projects in front of upper; e. overshot mouth, upper jaw projects over lower. 15

NECK Muscular, powerful, of fair length, well arched..of fair length - this means balanced. True balance is each part being in harmonious proportions to every other part. This is what a judge is looking for. References to a swanlike neck are incorrect if the neck is swanlike, there cannot be the required strength, only a long, thin neck. FOREQUARTERS Shoulders sloping and well angulated. Forelegs straight and muscular, neither in nor out at elbows, with a moderate amount of bone. Forearm somewhat fleshy, pasterns showing flexibility without weakness. Figure 8 - Correct Forequarters 16

Some find shoulders difficult to assess, which is presumably why the upright shoulder is a common fault. In fact a good shoulder is not difficult to recognise and should be easy to see in a Smooth without the need to over handle the dog. The poor shoulder is even easier to recognise as it is likely to produce obvious faults both standing and moving. The well laid back shoulder (scapula) goes diagonally from well defined withers to meet the upper arm (humerus) at what is generally called point of shoulder. The upper arm should go back at an angle of approximately 90 degrees from shoulder to elbow. The elbow should be placed approximately beneath well set back withers. The dog will be standing with its legs well under it, with well developed forechest. If the shoulder and/or upper arm are too steep or too short, the dog will stand with ears to toes in a straight line. The stride on moving will be short and choppy, and will be lifting the front legs too high in a hackney type action. Pasterns need to be flexible as these are the dogs shock absorbers. Figure 9 - Incorrect forequarters Steep shoulder; short, straight upper arm; no forechest; elbow below line of chest; short in neck; hackney action 17

BODY Slightly long compared with height, back level and firm with slight rise over loins; ribs well sprung; chest deep and fairly broad behind the shoulders. Ribs well sprung barrel ribs will force elbows out and this could also be the case if the dog is overweight. Slab sided or narrow or flat ribs may result in tied elbows and mincing movement, as well as not having the required heart and lung room. A well sprung rib cage to accommodate heart and lungs is an important concept for stamina and endurance. A level back shows no sign of dippiness, has a graceful sweep over loins, sloping croup and low set tail. HINDQUARTERS Hindlegs muscular at thighs, clean and sinewy below, with well bent stifles. Hocks well let down and powerful. Figure 10 - Correct hindquarters 18

Muscular well angulated hindquarters, sweeping down to low set well angled hocks, suggest construction necessary to provide flexible propulsion at any speed. As with a steep shoulder or too short upper arm, lack of angulation in the hind quarters will give a short stilted stride with too much up and down motion. To achieve the correct movement, it is obvious that the construction of the fore and hind quarters must balance one another perfectly. However, the bone structure cannot function adequately without the help of well exercised normally developed muscles and ligaments. Well bent stifles (knee joint is the bend of stifle) rather than the angulation at the point of hock, ensures good driving rear action. Figure 11 - Incorrect hindquarters Hip-bone too flat; shorter stride; less drive; straight stifles 19

Figure 12 - Incorrect hindquarters Tibia/fibula too long; stifle angulation excessive FEET Oval soles well padded. Toes arched and close together. Hindfeet slightly less arched. Nails must be short TAIL Long with bone reaching at least to hock joint. To be carried low when quiet but with a slight upward swirl at tip. May be carried gaily when excited, but never over the back. The tail should be reasonably strong not whippet like. The tail set is important. Badly carried tails seem to affect hind movement and also spoil the whole outline when watching movement in profile. 20

GAIT/MOVEMENT Distinctly characteristic of the breed. A sound dog is never out at the elbow, yet moves with front feet comparatively close together. Plaiting, crossing or rolling are highly undesirable. Hindlegs, from hock joint to ground, when viewed from rear, parallel. Hindlegs powerful and full of drive. Viewed from the side, action is smooth. A reasonably long stride is desirable and should be light and appear quite effortless. Propulsion comes from the hindquarters while flexibility of front allows the collie to make sharp turns and change direction rapidly. It is the rear which gives that much needed drive to thrust the dog forward. The pads of the dog s feet should be visible as the dog is going away from you. Close front movement or single tracking at the front, explain that legs move true viewed from the front. Plaiting legs appear to swing in an arc. The American Kennel Club Standard has this to say about the gait of the Smooth Collie: Gait is sound. When the dog is moved at a slow trot toward an observer its straight front legs track comparatively close together at the ground. The front legs are not out at the elbows, do not cross over nor does the dog move with a choppy, pacing or rolling gait. When viewed from the rear, the hindlegs are powerful and propelling. Viewed from the side the reasonable long reaching stride is smooth and even, keeping the backline firm and level. As the speed increases, the collie single tracks, bringing the front legs inward in a straight line from hip toward center line of body. The gait suggests effortless speed combined with the dog s herding heritage, requiring it to be capable of changing its direction of travel almost instantaneously. Pacing is, as often as not, a habit. It may be obese, overweight or a lazy dog, or more likely as a result of faulty lead exercise. COAT Short, flat topcoat of harsh texture, with a very dense undercoat. Not trimmed or clipped. Care should be taken when assessing the coat. Some seem to relate the smooth collie coat with the short coats found in the Boxer or Doberman. This is wrong. 21

COLOUR Three recognised colours: Sable and White, Tricolour and Blue Merle. Sable: any shade from light gold to rich mahogany or shaded sable. Light straw or cream colour is highly undesirable. Tricolour: predominantly black with rich tan markings about the legs and head. A rusty tinge in top coat is highly undesirable. Blue Merle: predominantly clear, silvery blue splashed and marbled with black. Rich tan markings preferred but absence should not be penalised. Large black markings, slate colour or rust tinge to top or undercoat are highly undesirable. All above may carry typical white collie markings to a greater or lesser degree. Following markings are favourable: white collar, full or part, white front, legs and feet, white tail tip. A blaze may be carried on muzzle or skull, or both. All white or predominantly white is most undesirable. SIZE Height: dogs 56-61 cms (22-24 ins) at shoulder; bitches 51-56 cms (20-22 ins) at shoulder. Weight: dogs (20.5-29.5 kgs (45-65 lbs); bitches 18-25 kgs (40-55 lbs) FAULTS Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault is considered should be in exact proportion to its degree. NOTE Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum 22

Figure 13 -The Correct Collie Outline 23

JUDGING THE BREED First impressions are extremely important when judging the Smooth Collie. A judge's first impression of a Smooth Collie should be of an elegant and dignified dog, with an appearance which suggests intelligence and activity. 1 Judging the Head The head should be a blunt wedge with all parts i.e. backskull and foreface, of equal proportion. Viewed from the front or side, the stop should be perceptible not too deep. The backskull should be flat and not receding at the rear. The muzzle should be well rounded with a strong underjaw. The skin at the throat should be clean. The eye should be almond shaped, set obliquely, not too small or set too deeply into the head. Colour should be dark brown in sables and tricolours. The blue merle may have one or both eyes blue or flecked with blue. Ears should not be too close together and should not be on the side of the head. A poor backskull makes for wide set ears. Two thirds of the ear should be standing upright with one third tipped naturally forward below the horizontal. The inside edge of the ear should be in line with the centre of the eye. Ears should not be too heavy (half up and half tipped) and should not be too tightly folded. Heavy ears give the dog a houndy expression and the alert interested look of the collie is lost. Check for any grease or substances that may have been used in the ears. The cheeks and foreface should not be overfilled, too flat, too wide or narrow. The muzzle should be clean, not lippy and should blend easily into the foreface. The mouth should have a standard scissor bite. Expression is so important in the collie but is so hard to describe. It comes from the perfect combination of eye shape and placement, ear carriage, correct stop, the blending of the muzzle into cheeks and foreface. The expression should be a serene, angelic look but also keen and alert. Once seen it is never forgotten. 2 The Neck, Front, and Body The neck should be of fair length, well arched and muscular never swan like. Shoulders should be well angulated with an upper arm of corresponding length. The forechest should have a reasonable width and depth and the forelegs should be straight and muscular. Feet should be well padded with the toes well arched (less so on the hind feet), and nails short. The body should be slightly longer than the dog s height. The back should be level and firm with a slight rise over the loin not a dippy topline. Ribs should be well sprung to accommodate plenty of heart and lung room. 24

3 The Hindquarters The thighs should be well muscled and the stifles well bent. Overangulated stifles will have a long sweep or Dane like appearance. Hocks should be well let down and powerful. The tail set is very important. A badly carried tail is not only incorrect but can affect movement. It spoils the whole outline of the dog when watching the side profile. The tail should be long with the bone reaching to at least the hock joint. 4 Gait The gait of the collie is very important. The gait suggests effortless speed combined with the ability to change direction almost instantaneously. This will enable the dog to fulfil its herding heritage. Pacing is usually a habit but can be the sign of an overweight or lazy dog. When moved at a slow trot towards you, the straight front legs track relatively close together at ground level. This does not mean that the front legs are out at elbow, cross over, or move with a choppy, pacing, or rolling gait. When viewed from the rear, the hind legs are straight, tracking relatively close together at ground level. At a moderate trotting speed, the hind legs are powerful and propel the dog forward with drive. Viewed from the side, the stride is long reaching, smooth and even with a firm and level topline. As speed increases, the collie single tracks. This means the front legs are brought towards the centre line of the body. The hindlegs are brought inward in a straight line from the hip toward the centre line of the body. 5 Coat The coat is what makes the Smooth Collie different to the Rough Collie. It is therefore of great importance. The double coat should have a short, flat, harsh topcoat with an undercoat. The short coat should not be confused with a fine, less weatherproof coat. Colours are the same as a Rough Collie. Sometimes colours darken with each moult, particularly sables and blue merles 25

Figure 14 -Correct Front and Rear Profiles Figure 15 -Front Faults Fiddle Front Elbows in, toes out 26

Figure 16 - Front faults Left to right narrow; wide; out at elbows, toes in. Figure 17 - Rear faults Left to right sickle hocks; too close, narrow; cow hocks. 27

SOUNDNESS, TYPE AND MOVEMENT Whilst it is possible to go into all kinds of dictionary definitions of the word soundness, the term amongst dog fanciers usually means correct body structure including bones, skeletal angles, muscles and ligaments, as well as correct gait. Actually gait itself is a measure of soundness. Proper gait is not possible without correct structure and faults will be revealed in gaiting that might be hidden while the dog is posed. The argument of type versus soundness is precipitated by those who use the first definition of type. This in effect breaks the dog down into separate compartments: Traits which are for the breed only and called type, and Traits which are common to nearly all breeds and are called soundness. The question must then be asked which of these compartments is more important? The answer should of course be neither. Anyone using the first definition (type) must realise that both elements are of equal importance. The Collie should be seen as a whole dog. Correct body structure then becomes as integral a part of type as is the correct head. Both are essential if a collie is to be what the standard says it should be. While no dog is perfect, one that is excellent in head and very faulty in body is just as lacking in type as one that is excellent in body structure and faulty in head. The typy collie should be better than average in both head and body traits as well as having a characteristic temperament. The nearer to perfection the dog is in head and body, the better the dog. WHAT DOES A TYPY COLLIE ACTUALLY LOOK LIKE? The standard gives us a picture in words and asks us to fill it out. Judging a dog is essentially subjective rather than objective, but any personal opinion must be formed within the framework of the standard. Some features of the standard are very definite and not open to individual interpretation. These are mainly the paragraphs on body structure. Here exact specification and angles are given. Adherence to them constitutes soundness and a dog either meets these requirements or it does not, although there can be differences in the degree of deviation from perfection. Learning about structure is a matter of study. Other requirements are less explicit. How long and wide is a long blunt wedge? How big is a medium sized eye? The paragraph on expression is especially open to interpretation, yet it is a vital part of type. It is extremely difficult to put into words but very easy to see if present. Place two dogs side by side, if one has the correct expression and the other does not, the correct one is obvious. Good expression gives a sweet, gentle yet alert look. 28

Hardness, sharpness, apprehension, fearfulness or even blankness all fail to show the true collie type. One may have to look at many dogs before finding a really wonderful expression, but once seen it is unmistakeable and unforgettable. Quite a few of the other non-explicit characteristics are dependant upon balance to bring them into focus. It is very significant that the standard says no part should appear out of proportion to the whole. Look at as many collies as possible and see which ones have that all-of-a-piece look. This is where an eye for dog comes in. You may be born with it, but you can also develop it. It s all a matter of understanding balance. You must turn the words of the standard into a picture of the ideal collie, for this must be your basis for judging for comparing dogs against each other and the standard. This will provide the goal of perfection. To do this you will compare many collies with the standard. Gradually your mental picture becomes your individual interpretation of type. This explains why judges will place the same dogs differently or why breeders prefer one line over another. EXPLORING SOUNDNESS AND GAIT Soundness is often used to mean a healthy, structurally functional animal. One who has not been injured and has no defects which would affect its performance. It is also used in referring to a correct, solid temperament. Any animal referred to as sound should have the proper temperament, a healthy body and functional movement. Many dog people, however, use the term to exclusively describe gait, and it is with this area we will concern ourselves now. Correct gait can be defined as freedom of movement. It describes an action which in this breed is near floating in nature. It is an important consideration in a working breed because it lessens fatigue and thereby makes a physical chore easier. Gait is determined by bone structure and musculature. The skeleton presents the framework and prescribes limitations within which muscles must function. Muscles and ligaments determine the efficiency with which a dog moves, but even the best muscling cannot exceed what the skeleton is able to do. A structurally inferior dog (determined by the skeleton) will at best be handicapped. On the other hand, a good skeleton with poor muscling will not perform as expected. Muscles have the advantage of flexibility because they can be conditioned to perform better or worse than they would without conditioning. Ligaments determine tightness of the joints, and tendons control the attachment of each individual muscle to the skeleton. Ideal ligamentation allows the joint to move freely without restriction, while holding it in the position in which it was intended to operate and preventing unnecessary play. Ligamentation is less able to be modified than musculature. 29

There are two kinds of gait variation from the ideal. One type is the dog who is a tight mover. He usually has no sloppiness in his movement either coming or going but maybe restricted or cramped in reach and drive. Sometimes the tight dog lacks angulation, compounding the problem. If his angulation is OK, he will usually loosen up and move more freely after he has warmed up. The other variation is seen in the loose or spongy dog that has a beautiful side gait but moves sloppily coming and going. This dog may need continual roadwork to keep in shape, so its muscles can compensate for slack ligaments. If one must choose between these two less than perfect animals, a slightly loose dog is preferable as with conditioning, this dog may approach the ideal. As with any fault, it is not so much the nature as the degree that matters. An individual dog moving correctly at a trot invariably moves well at other gaits. Gait is assessed from three angles: The rear (moving away from the judge) The front (dog approaching the judge head on), and From the side Side Gait Watching side gait shows whether a dog is properly constructed. Correct side gait requires correct balance of all component parts. As a herding breed, the collie needs to cover the ground with maximum speed and agility and least effort, since wasted effort causes him to tire sooner. As viewed from the side the function of the rear action is forward impulsion. This is rear drive and gives strength and speed of stride and length of step. Drive is dependent upon correct croup, stifle, hip and hock relationships, as well as strong muscles. Front action viewed from the side is most often referred to as reach. The front must be able to keep up with the rear and move simultaneously with it to avoid interference with the stride. The skeletal part of the front assembly includes lay back of shoulder, upper arm. Leg and pastern. Since the front assembly controls changes of direction and speed, it must be supple and move freely. Balanced side gait is the most difficult aspect for a beginner to recognise, but to a practised eye it becomes the most obvious component of a properly moving collie. For maximum efficiency in side gait, every structural part must be correct from the ears back. Angulation especially should determine the length of reach and drive. This establishes how tireless a collie should be, what makes it an efficient working dog. When angulation of shoulder and pelvis are approximately the same, the dog s gait from the side view will be balanced. Recognising front movement can be difficult rear movement is the easiest to evaluate. 30

The trotting dog has two feet on the ground at a time (opposing diagonals) and must rely on his speed for balance. The back should remain strong and level with little up and down or rolling motion. The mechanics of the balanced trot are determined to a great extent by proper angulation. Having the same angle at shoulder and stifle is most important. A poorly angulated dog will require more steps to cover the same ground as a well angulated one, and the effect will not be as smooth or effortless. The better the angulation at both ends of the dog, the better the reach and drive he will have and the more efficiently he will move. At his maximum reach in an extended trot, the collie s front leg ideally extends as far forward as possible without undue upward swing. The feet should just clear the ground. The rear diagonal should also be a full forward thrust and for a split second all four feet should be off the ground. Rear Movement The function of a dog s hind legs is to produce drive to propel the dog forward. Stance can be trained but movement is proof of structure. To see how well a dog is tracking at the back, imagine a line down the back of each hind leg from hip to hock to foot. When standing these lines should be straight, vertical and parallel with each other. A deviation either in or out indicates weakness. When moving the dog these lines should remain straight but come together in a V shape as speed increases, the inside edges of the feet converge on a centre line, thus the term single track. Rear Faults Hocking out o The hocks turn out as the dog moves probably the most serious of hind faults because it puts stress on the ligaments and restricts drive of the hindquarters. Cow hocks o The opposite is also to be avoided. This is where the hocks turn in and feet turn out. If the legs are straight at the hocks but the feet turn outward, the dog is said to toe out. True cow hocks exhibit both problems. Crossing over o The feet overstep the centre line, actually crossing when gaiting and the entire rear of the dog usually bounces from side to side as the centre of gravity is shifted with each step. The fault is more obvious with increased speed. Wide parallel rear o A dog with this fault often stands perfectly; his legs remain the same distance apart at the feet in a fast trot as when standing. Wide parallel movement is more noticeable at a slow pace because a faster trot will force the legs together for balance. A dog moving wide at the rear lacks agility to turn by not being able to pivot readily. 31

Front Movement Collies also single track in front when moving at a fast trot. The legs should be parallel straight lines from elbows to pasterns to feet when the dog stands. Correct front movement is practically dependant on the correct spring of rib. Correct ribs are round at the top half to allow plenty of heart and lung room, but flatten towards the bottom half to allow unrestricted movement of the front legs backward and forward along the side of the dog. If the sides are too rounded (barrel ribbed) or too flat (slab sided), the movement at the elbow is distorted and efficient gait is not longer possible. Front Faults Poor fronts are a problem in all breeds. Straight shoulders and short upper arms seem to be increasing. Breeders must be aware of these problems. Crooked front legs o The legs bow outwards, come inwards at the pasterns and then out again at the foot. Carried to the extreme, this is knows as fiddle front. Out at elbows o The elbows come out from the body rather than moving smoothly backwards when the dog moves. This can be the result of excess weight, but often the cause is barrel ribs. Paddling o Throwing the leg in an outward circle from the elbow when moving. A dog that paddles usually tracks wide. Winging o Often confused with paddling. While both faults involve throwing the feet outwards, winging originates at the pastern rather than the elbow. Crossing over o The same as crossing at the rear. The feet cross over the centre line and the centre of gravity shifts giving a choppy, bouncy movement. Crossing in front is usually due to a narrow chest. A wide front o The dog usually stands nicely but legs remain vertical in motion, not converging A narrow or tied in front o A narrow chested dog that is too close or pinched at elbows. As a result the dog picks its legs up too high and loses reach Short upper arm o The upper arm should be equal in length to the shoulder blade. Regardless of angulation a short upper arm throws gait off. A hackney or prancing action with the front feet lifted high is often indicative of a short upper arm. Incorrect pastern 32

Other faults o The pastern is designed to absorb shock from the forequarters. It needs to be moderate in length and slope to perform its function effectively. Too much slope results in a loose, extremely weak wrist. More frequently it is the too straight pastern that is seen. This is similar to the pastern of a terrier. Pacing o This is where the legs on the same side (instead of diagonals) move together. A quick jerk on the lead to speed up will usually put the dog into a trot. Crabbing o Here the dog moves out of alignment. The dog moves somewhat sideways with the rear tracking to the left or right of the front. This is easily seen when assessing front or hind movement. Steep or flat croup o Although at first this may appear to be a purely visual fault, it does affect gait. The slope of the croup affects rear drive, rear extension and tail carriage. Nothing spoils the outline of a dog moving in profile than a high carried tail. 33

Figure 18 - Correct Collie profiles 34

Figure 19 - Incorrect Collie profiles Left too straight in front, too long in leg; adequate rear. Right rear legs too angulated and too long; adequate front 35

Figure 20 - Incorrect Collie profiles Left Lacks rear angulation; adequate front. Right too straight in front; too long in body; adequate rear; poor topline 36

Notes 37

Produced by The Smooth Collie Club of Great Britain 2006 www.smoothcollieclub.com The Smooth Collie Club of Great Britain 40