Rabbits Average life expectancy: 5-10 years Adult weight: 1-10kg Food and water provision A high fibre diet is essential to avoid dental disease and gastrointestinal problems. Mould free hay should always be available either scattered on the ground or in a hay rack which can be attached to the side of the cage. Rabbits thrive on a wild diet, i.e. grass, hay, water and plants. They do not need to be fed a dry ration and will often eat this at the expense of fibrous foods and run the risk of dental, gastrointestinal problems and obesity. Only a small amount if any should be fed. The high fibre extruded pellets are preferable to the mixed, muesli type diets as rabbits are selective eaters and will eat their favourites and leave the higher fibre, higher calcium pellets behind. Grass wears down the teeth and prevents overgrowth and safe supervised grazing should be provided as well as plenty of hay. Outdoor grazing ensures sufficient Vitamin D absorption from sunlight. Grass can be plucked or snipped and given in to the hutch but grass clippings from a lawnmower should be avoided as these quickly ferment. The basic grass diet should be supplemented with a mixture of washed vegetables. Rabbits enjoy; carrots (with tops), broccoli, cabbage, cucumber and dandelion leaves. These should be introduced slowly and one at a time to avoid gastrointestinal upset. Fruit should be kept to a minimum and only used as treats as the sugar content can damage the teeth. Lettuce should be avoided as it commonly causes diarrhoea and kale and spinach should only be fed in small amounts. The healthiest rabbits are those fed on grass, hay, water and some plants and vegetables. House plants should be kept away from free living indoor rabbits as many are toxic e.g. ferns, poinsettia and any bulbs.
Food should be provided in a ceramic or stainless steel bowl as they are non-chewable, hard to knock over and easily cleaned. Alternatively, scatter feeding can be practiced, i.e. food scattered on the ground for mental stimulation. Rabbits will drink large quantities of water which may be provided in a similar bowl to the feed or from a drinking bottle. Drinking bottles have a ball valve drip dispenser which prevents wetting of the surrounding bedding. They also avoid water contamination with urine, faeces or food. They must be angled correctly and checked for leaks. These bottles are also prone to bacterial build-up and must be cleaned with Milton at least every 2-3 days. Water must be changed daily. It is important to check the rabbit has been reared with a water bottle otherwise he/she will not use one. Behaviour As a prey species, rabbits tend to hide their feelings to prevent an appearance of vulnerability. This means that they are not overtly affectionate, compared to cats or dogs. Affection is shown by grooming of a companion or human e.g. licking the hand as well as following the owner around. Aggression is shown by scratching, biting and boxing. This can be a problem in unsocialised rabbits but also if entire males (less so, females) are housed together, especially at the onset of the breeding season in early spring. It is important not to back off as the rabbit will lean that the behaviour has been successful. Fear is shown by thumping of the hind legs. Chewing is a natural behaviour and is essential to wear down the open rooted teeth. In the wild rabbits live in a colony and are happier with a companion in captivity. Same sex or mixed pairs will generally work well as long as they are neutered. This can be done from 4-6 months of age. Spaying is also advised on health grounds as entire females are at high risk of developing uterine adenocarcinoma, a highly malignant tumour. Guinea pigs should not be housed with rabbits as they are often bullied and rabbit kicks can do a lot of damage. Also, rabbits are frequently asymptomatic carriers of a bacterium which may cause severe pneumonia in guinea pigs. Rabbits that are kept confined with no diversions easily become bored. This can lead to the development of aggressive behaviour or self mutilation.
It is important to provide plenty of space for exercise and a rabbit companion if possible as well as in-house entertainment such as: Large boxes or pipes to hide in and chew Plastic tunnels dug into the ground to stimulate a natural warren Mounds of soil as a look-out post Hay racks and scatter feed Boredom breaker hay balls Housing Outdoor Rabbits Rabbits are usually kept in wooden hutches with wire mesh for ventilation. It is important that the hutch is of a sufficient size. As a rough guide, the hutch should be at least: Width: 3 times the length of the fully stretched rabbit Depth: 1 x stretched rabbit Height: 1 x rabbit standing on hind legs The rabbit needs to be able to hop around and exercise or there is a risk of bone, muscle, obesity and cardiac problems. The hutch should have separate feeding and toileting areas, a covered sleeping area and ideally access to a run. The main problem with wooden hutches is the tendency to rot from absorption of urine and rain if unprotected. It should be waterproofed but creosote should not be used as a wood preservative as it is toxic. The hutch roof can be protected with roofing felt and the roof should slope to the rear so that rain does not collect or drip into the rabbit. The roof must be solid to protect from predators and the hutch should be raised to prevent moisture soaking through from the ground. The hutch should be safe from predators and the doors should have fox proof locks. Access to a run can be provided through a pop hole to a ramp. The run is usually made of wood and wire mesh (with a similar roof) and should be set about 0.5m into the ground to prevent tunnelling out by the rabbit! Remember this is what rabbits do best. It also prevents predator access.
Ideally, the run should have 2 opaque sides to allow the rabbit to feel secure and be at least 1.5m² for a single medium rabbit. There should be sunken tunnels or pieces of pipe to hide. The location of the hutch and run is very important, the area should be: Wind and draught free especially the sleeping compartment. Have good access to sunlight for Vitamin D production but also have a shaded area to escape direct sunlight (remember that rabbits overheat easily). Within easy view from the house. Transportable in case of bad weather. Rabbits should never be exposed to temperatures < 4 C or > 26 C. Rabbits should not be allowed to roam free in the garden or in runs which are not secured to the ground unless somebody is accompanying them. Access to fresh grass in the run should be provided as much as possible to allow wearing of the teeth and stimulate normal gut motility. Outdoor rabbits should be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease. Indoor rabbits Rabbits naturally use a toilet area or latrine in the wild so are easily litter trained. Initially the rabbit should be kept in a small area with sleeping and feeding areas and a litter tray until the litter tray is associated with toileting (rabbits eat while defaecating so a strategically placed hayrack can help). Cat litter should not be used as rabbits tend to eat it. Instead, newspaper and hay should be used. Rabbits are supreme chewers so access to any electrical wires, house plants and also lead paint must be prevented. Bedding Hay, straw, newspaper and wood shavings are all suitable floor coverings. Hay and straw allow urine to drop through and prevent urine scalding. A layer of newspaper for insulation and absorption covered with hay, straw or shredded paper is often useful. Wood shavings are not ideal in the sleeping area as they can irritate the rabbit s eyes if he/she burrows in. Inadequate or infrequently changed bedding can lead to sore hocks (dermatitis) and respiratory problems as the ammonia produced will irritate the respiratory linings.
Parasite prevention: Rabbits can be affected by ear mites, fur mites, harvest mites, rabbit fleas and cat and dog fleas. Please speak to your local veterinary practice for advice on treating and preventing these parasites. Flies (particularly in warm weather) are attracted to unclean environments and commonly lay their eggs on soiled areas of the rabbit s fur or on wounds. The eggs then hatch into larvae (maggots) which eat in to the skin causing extreme pain and distress for the rabbit. This can be prevented by daily inspection of the rabbit, especially the ano-genital area, tail folds and dewlap and cleaning out his/her hutch. Things to look out for: As previously mentioned, rabbits are a prey species and hide signs of pain and illness very well. Please contact your local veterinary practice for advice should you notice any of the following signs (or any behaviour you consider unusual for your rabbit): Hypersalivation: Wet face and chin Slobbers Overgrown or excessively long teeth Anorexia (reluctance to eat) Weight loss Swellings or abscesses of the jaw Inflammation around the eye Soiled matted coat (may be due to inability to groom) Diarrhoea Bloating Absence of droppings Any discharge from the eyes and/or nose Sneezing Dry scaly lesions and alopecia of the head and paws Mouth breathing Head tilt Transportation Rabbits do not enjoy transportation and should only be moved when essential, e.g. to the veterinary practice.
Cat carriers with opaque sides reduce the feeling of vulnerability of the rabbit but can prove difficult to extract the rabbit at the practice. Top loading cages provide less stressful extraction. Wire cages can be covered with a towel, ensuring sufficient ventilation. Smaller breeds can be transported in guinea pig carriers. Water bottles should not be provided during transport as they will spill and add to the rabbit s discomfort. Ventilated cardboard boxes are not strong enough for anything more than small dwarf breeds.