BASIC RESCUE TRAINING

NATIVE ANIMAL TRUST FUND INC BASIC RESCUE TRAINING 1

Contents Basic Introduction to Rescuing Preparation. page 1 Health & safety. page 2 Information to give the caller on what to do until you arrive page 3 Equipment. page 3 Transportation. page 4 Contacting the Species Coordinator. Page 4 Specific Species (Including species specific: Common Reasons for Rescues; Important Points to Remember when Rescuing; Equipment; Transportation; Rescue Procedure- Wild Capture & Handling and Special Rescue Situations) Bandicoots & Dasyurids.. page 5 Birds General.. page 6-7 Oceanic Birds page 8 Raptors page 9 Water birds & Waders. page 10-11 Echidna... page 12-13 Frogsand Toads... page 14 Koalas. page 15 Lizards, Goannas & Turtles. page 16 Macropods.. page 17-19 Marine SeaTurtles page 20-21 Native Rodents.. page 22 Platypus... page 23-24 Possums & Gliders. page 25-26 Wombats... page 27-28 2

BASIC RESCUE PREPARATION A rescue call can come at any time so always have your rescue kit ready to go. When the call comes in don't get flustered. Take the time to get very clear directions and a good description of the situation. Go well equipped and prepared for anything. You need to know 1. The callers name and address so we can get back to them if necessary. 2. Location: Where did the fauna come from? Get as specific a location as possible. It may not be the address of the caller. The location is vital so that the recovered animal can go back to their own habitat. 3. The contact number from the caller in case you have difficulties. If available take a mobile phone with you. 4. What were the circumstances? eg Was the mother hit by a car? Is it on the ground? Has it fallen from the nest? Are its parents nearby? Was the joey in or out of the pouch? 5. Is it injured? What sort of injury? 6. How long have they had the fauna in care? 7. If the animal is beside the road ask for somebody to stay with it until you arrive. If this is impossible, ask them to mark the site (white cloth on the fence, tree, etc.) 8. Have they tried to feed it or give it anything to drink? If so what and how? 9. Other information Leave your phone number so they can check the fauna s progress. Be pleasant, non-judgemental and a good ambassador for NATF and the wildlife. YOUR RESCUE KIT SHOULD BE PLACED IN A WELL SEALED CONTAINER AND KEPT TOGETHER, READY TO GO AT ALL TIMES ~ PREFERABLY TRAVELLING WITH YOU IN YOUR CAR 1

HEALTH & SAFETY Never place yourself at risk NEVER ENDANGER YOURSELF Never rescue fauna you are not trained to rescue. This includes all snakes, flying foxes, and bats. These species require specialist knowledge, skills, and/or vaccinations. Refer rescues of these species to the appropriate coordinators. At no time should any NATF member or approved trained rescuer or carer allow to rescue fauna from power lines. Energy Australia must be called at all times to assist fauna rescue. Wear protective clothing when rescuing- sturdy shoes, long pants, long sleeved shirt etc. Don t climb trees, or onto a roof; only approved trained NATF personnel are allowed to conduct tree rescues. Use your hazard lights to warn traffic. Remove dead animals from the road so they don't attract prey animals to the road to cause more accidents. Never go into confined spaces, eg drains. The NATF works closely with other approved services, eg Energy Australia, SES. Always wash your hands both before and after handling wildlife. Ensure your tetanus vaccinations are current. Never hold wildlife close to your face as there are diseases that some animals carry that may infect humans. When cleaning your baskets or cages always wet wash to avoid faeces becoming airborne and you breathing this in. Advise members of the public to wash their hands as well if they have been handling the fauna. NEVER COMPROMISE THE HEALTH OF WILDLIFE Clean baskets/cages with Halamid or hypochlorite (White King). Replace perches and soak food and water containers regularly. Always change bedding and pouches regularly. Separate new fauna for at least 24 hours prior to putting them into a communal aviary. Treat sick wildlife last. NEVER COMPROMISE THE NATF Don t make alterations to property eg hole in walls to rescue trapped wildlife. Ask the property owner to make the required adjustments. Always give the responsibility to the property owner to call private specialist services if required to support the rescue of fauna. Eg an antennae specialist for birds/possums trapped on a TV antennae. Don t go into roof cavities etc. NATF members can be available to receive the fauna once retrieved. If in doubt, contact the species coordinator or other senior member. 2

INFORMATION TO GIVE THE CALLER ON WHAT TO DO UNTIL YOU ARRIVE Place the animal in a secure environment eg possum in a pillowcase with the top tied securely or a bird in a box or laundry basket; If it is a joey (possum or macropod) and it is cold or has no fur, ask them to place a hot water bottle (even a drink bottle will do) filled with hot tap water only, wrapped in cloth, next to (never underneath) the joey. Ask the caller to put the animal somewhere warm and quiet. This means - no kids nursing it to have their photo taken, no neighbours coming to see it, away from the T. V., pet dog etc. Get all the relevant information and get out of there! You should never do an examination of any animal, whether, it be a bird or any other species, in front of people. This only causes more stress to the animal. Take the animal home or to an experienced carer where the examination can be done in a quiet environment. Always remember your coordinator is there to help you. If you do not feel confident in the handling of a species, then leave it and have someone show you how to do it till you build up your confidence level. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED TRANSPORTATION and CONTAINMENT Basket, carry cage or heavy duty cardboard boxes (variety of sizes to suit different fauna). Smooth sided container/box eg: large, plastic garbage bin large, heavy duty, waxed cardboard box a very large esky -variety of sizes, with small holes in the lid and metal clamps to latch Pillowslip. Pouch a canvas haversack is ideal. Cotton liners - from pillowcase size to handkerchief size. Woolly liners - old jumpers or sloppy-joe type material of matching sizes. Source of warmth (heat pad, hot water bottle or wheat bag). CAPTURE and HANDLING Towels. Pillowslip. Net / catch-bag with handle. Large, heavy duty catch-bag. Leather gloves and Decent set of pliers/wire cutters. MISCELLANEOUS Sharp scissors - bandage scissors are ideal but any sharp scissors will do. First Aid Equipment - sterile gauze pads, compression bandage, rubber gloves. Torch - in working order. Masking tape. Sun glasses, sunscreen, hat. Note pad and paper. Map, street directory. Length of rope, fluorescent spray paint. Field guide to wildlife. 3

TRANSPORTATION NEXT - TAKE YOUR OWN ADVICE! 1. Have your pouch and/or basket/box ready. 2. Have your heat source ready if needed (unfurred joeys 28-30 deg C, developing fur 28deg, larger animals which are sick or injured may be in shock 26 deg C; or a wheat bag for general birds etc) 3. Keep your radio off. 4. No noisy children in the car. 5. No pets. 6. No smoking. 7. Check for life threatening problems - then get the animal home to examine it. Observe the animal for shock or injuries for several minutes before handling. Wildlife with fractures should be handled as little as possible to minimise any further damage to muscle etc. and should be placed in a confined area so that they don't move around too much. Wildlife with wounds should be checked for maggots and placed in an enclosed area so that flies are unable to access their wounds. AGAIN - TAKE YOUR OWN ADVICE! Place the animal in a secure environment e.g. possum in a pillowcase with the top tied securely or a bird in a box or laundry basket. If it is a joey (possum or macropod) and it is cold or has no fur, provide a heat source. If the joey (or any other mammal) needs to have its body temperature raised due to being in shock raise it slowly, over about 1-1 1/2 hours using gentle heat. Cover the basket/cage as this provides a warmer environment, and reduces visual stimuli. If it is a bird, leave it alone for a few hours. Ensure platypuses, echidnas and reptiles (including lizards, land turtles and marine sea turtles), are kept cool. Do not provide heat. Put the animal somewhere dark and quiet. This means - no kids nursing it to have their photo taken, no neighbours coming to see it, away from the T. V., pet dog etc. CONTACT THE SPECIES COORDINATOR or Senior Rehabilitator 4

BANDICOOTS & DASYURIDS Bandicoots (left) are small ground dwelling nocturnal marsupials feeding on insects, worms, snails, berries and seeds. They sleep during the day amongst dense vegetation and leaf litter, foraging at night. Dasyurids are a carnivorous marsupial and can range in size from a few grams up to 7 kgs or more. Dasyurids occurring in our area include antichinus, quolls, planigales, dunnarts, and phascogales (below). Major reasons for rescue includes road accidents, especially associated with loss of habitat due to development and orphaned young. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Never transport bandicoots unbagged in wire cages or cat carry baskets, as they are likely to injure their snout or feet when trying to escape. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED Capture bag Towels Carry cage/basket TRANSPORTATION Adults should be transported in a secured bag, such as a pillowslip, which is then placed in a carry cage. Quolls should be transported in a strong container as the can chew out very easy. Pouch young should be transported in an appropriately sized secured pouch. Heat may be required in the form of hot water bottles or heat pads. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING Bandicoots should be handled with a firm grip at the back of the head and neck area and with the other hand support the bottom end. Promptly place into a bag, as they won't tolerate being held like this for long. Alternatively bandicoots can be scooped up in a towel. Avoid hold around the abdomen area, as they will scratch with their hind legs. They may also be secured at the back of the head/neck area and supporting the body with the other hand, you may wish to use a towel. Smaller dasyurid species should be handled by immobilising their heads and supporting the body, smaller species may only require one hand to handle. You may wish to use a small cloth to handle them. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 5

BIRDS- GENERAL Birds are the most common rescue you may be asked to do. Most common reasons for rescues include domestic animal attacks, hit by cars, accidents - such as flying into windows, power lines or netting, being blown from their nest. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Baby birds, where possible, need to be left with its mother. Remember not to endanger your life or others. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED carry cage, heavy duty cardboard boxes pillowslip towels field guide book net / catch-bag with handle source of warmth (heat pad, hot water bottle, or wheat bag) RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING Catching and handling birds is a source of stress. Watch the bird for a few minutes to see if you can see where it may be injured; also see what its escape areas may be. Catch the bird by throwing a towel or net over it. Most birds become quiet when they can no longer see. Be quiet and slow with your movements. If you can corner the bird, then capture becomes easier. It is better to make one definite throw than 10 half-hearted attempts, causing the bird to stress and flap. It may be quicker to work in teams where possible. Capture as quickly as possible to reduce stress. Distract the bird's attention to catch it. Leather gloves reduce sensation and are not recommended. Cover its head. When you hold a bird so it is comfortable, it will relax and stop struggling. Keep the bird upright and do not compress the chest. SPECIAL RESCUE SITUATIONS Magpies during the nesting season (between June and December), should be left in the area for a number of reasons, the eggs or young may die from exposure or starvation, other magpies are likely to take over the nest and if the nest has been removed any other 6

will try to use the location. Magpies may be held on back with feet up. A towel over the feet may help to scoop them up. Parrots have very strong beaks and claws. They are best handled from inside a big towel. A firm grip of their head or neck as if you were holding a cup will prevent bites. Two people may be needed to handle the larger parrots. Small birds need to be handled gently to prevent injury to themselves. Hold your hand in a pistol grip. The thumb and index finger hold the head, the others support the body. Pigeons/doves drop feathers when handled. A firm hold over the flight and tail feathers or the shoulders may reduce feather loss. Birds in swimming pools should be herded into a corner and netted, place immediately in a warmed box. There are some special situations in which the NATF has organised with other volunteer groups to use their assistance when retrieving injured wildlife. An example would be birds caught in high trees. In this case, ring your coordinator who will arrange with other organisations to provide assistance. Oiled birds Oiled birds should be placed in a well ventilated box, to avoid breathing the fumes as much as possible and try to find out what kind of oil it is, some chemicals are quite dangerous to humans and can cause eye irritation and respiratory problems. Do not attempt to wash the oil from the bird unless trained to do so as it is too easy to destroy the feather structure. Contact your coordinator, or an experienced carer, immediately you receive an oiled bird - no matter how small the oiled area may be. BABY BIRDS You will be asked to go and pick up baby birds in the hundreds in baby season. Many of these rescues are unnecessary and should be assessed and maybe discussed with your coordinator. It is very rewarding to place a baby back with its mother, no matter how much we would love to raise that baby it should be placed back where it belongs. Some birds raise their babies on the ground and this should be considered before interfering. Baby birds, where possible, need to be left with its mother. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 7

BIRDS: OCEANIC SEA BIRDS Oceanic birds are seabirds that spend most of their lives at sea rather than land or coastal waterways. We are seeing more oceanic birds, including Gannets, Albatrosses, Penguins, Petrels and Shearwaters. Most common reasons for rescues include storms, moulting, starvation, and injuries. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING DANGER: Care must be taken to protect your eyes and face. Albatrosses and Gannets have razor sharp beaks and can inflict awful wounds to your fingers. Avoid using wire cages, as sea birds can damage the hook on the end of their beak. Always keep the bird in a quiet and cool area. They are prone to suffer heat stress. Gannets have no external nostrils, caution must be taken that you do ensure the bird can breathe through its mouth. DO NOT COVER THE NOSTRILS Don't feed them: Never feed cat food or old fish to a sea bird RESCUE EQUIPMENT Variety of sized, heavy duty cardboard boxes or plastic tubs Towels Capture bag with a long handle TRANSPORTATION Oceanic birds should be placed in a container lined with towels so they may sit. Most aquatic birds spend most of their lives in water or flying. Their feet are not adapted for constant weight bearing. They have a very delicate leg and foot structure. Penguins can be housed in a small box lined with towels. They are great escape artists. They can jump great heights. Secure them well. Take care not to damage the flippers. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING When you go to rescue a sea bird take care of beaks; wings; claws; legs; and flippers. These are not only essential for the bird s survival, they are also easily damaged, probably meaning euthanasia for the bird, if not handled correctly. Throw a large towel over the whole bird from behind and secure the beak with one hand, place your other hand under the bird's body and hold close to your body. Albatrosses, Gannets, Petrels, and Shearwaters have large wing spans. When handling these birds, you need to take care that you do not damage the wing or feathers. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 8

BIRDS: RAPTORS Raptors are birds of prey and include the nocturnal family of owls and diurnal species including the osprey, hawks, harriers, falcons, kites and eagles. All are distinguished from other birds by their hooked beak, intense eyes and powerful feet with curved claws that are used to capture and kill their prey. Most common reasons for rescues include mal-nourished birds- especially in late winter or as a secondary result from injury or illness; vehicle collisions; poisoning; or fledglings leaving the nest early. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING DANGER: When rescuing birds of prey, beware of the talons. They are lethal weapons to their prey, needle sharp, incredibly powerful, used with speed and precision are excruciatingly painful to all humans. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Heavy cardboard boxes variable sizes Towels or blanket Catch-bag with handle TRANSPORTATION A cardboard box for transportation is preferable to a cage as it is dark, which will settle the bird, and will offer more protection to the bird's feathers. All raptors require good feathers for speed and agility in hunting. Put a towel or even a square of carpet on the base of the box to enable the bird something to grip onto while travelling around corners in the car. Take care that the bird does not become too hot in the confinement of the box. Put air holes below the eye level of the bird, as this will also reduce visual stressors while allowing some airflow. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING When birds of prey are cornered they will usually sit back on their tail feathers-or lie on their back and defend themselves by presenting you with their talons. Some birds will just lash out at you while others will latch on with vice-like grip. Give the bird something to hang onto, like a towel or branch. Then using another towel /blanket/catch bag, to throw over the bird Take a firm hold of the legs above the feet. Scoop it up from the back, taking care of the wings and avoiding the feet at all times. When handling small birds of prey, use a pigeon-grip described in the general bird notes that will pin the wings to the body and allow you control over the legs and feet. For large species like eagles, take hold of the legs to gain control over the feet. 9

BIRDS: WATER BIRDS and WADERS Water birds and waders include Gulls, Pelicans, Herons, Egrets, Cormorants, Darters etc and inhabit both our coastal and inland waterways. Most common reasons for rescues include storms, entangled in fishing line, starvation, injuries, and orphaned young. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING DANGER: All waterbirds can attack you with their beaks. Care must be taken to protect your eyes and face. Special consideration must be give to Darters and other long necked birds that will attack with speed and accuracy. Avoid using wire cages, as sea birds can damage the hook on the end of their beak. Always keep the bird in a quiet and cool area. If they are not kept cool they will suffer heat stress. Don't feed them: Never feed cat food or old fish to a sea bird RESCUE EQUIPMENT Heavy duty cardboard boxes Towels Net /capture bag with a long handle Sunglasses, sun screen, hat. TRANSPORTATION Place a towel on the floor of the container to protect the delicate feet. Long legged waders should be able to stand, permanent damage may be a result of being forced to sit with bent legs. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING o When you go to rescue a water bird you need to be particularly cautious of the beaks, wings, claws, and legs. These are not only essentialfor the bird s survival, they are also easily damaged. Always hold water birds away from your face. Remember, their beaks are your danger points. Place a towel over a small bird, wrap and put in container. Larger species may need to have their beaks secured. Throw a large towel over the whole bird from behind and secure the beak with one hand, place your other hand under the bird's body and hold close to your body. DO NOT COVER THE NOSTRILS Pelicans have no external nostrils, caution must be taken that you do not secure the beak so tight that the bird can not 10

breathe. Small wading birds can be held, gently, in the palm of your hand with its head and legs protruding. Pelicans and Cormorants have large wing spans. You need to take care, when handling these birds, that you do not damage the wing or feathers. PELICANS Always assess the area and the bird well, before attempting to rescue it, otherwise if your first attempt is unsuccessful, you may not get a second chance. Basic assessment before a rescue attempt can include: Is the bird on land or in the water? If it is in the water - how deep is it and can the bird swim well? Can It fly? Do you have a boat that is suitable to use? Are you on your own? Will the bird come close to be fed? (NB. Do not go on a pelican rescue without taking fish to feed them). Method of Capture Capturing by the beak: This is the most common technique used when rescuing a pelican and can normally be carried out very quietly which is less stressful to the bird. Most pelicans are people orientated and are familiar with being fed by local fishermen, by offering fish to the injured bird you may find that they will come up to you without hesitation. If the bird will take the fish straight from your hand it will just be a matter of grasping the bottom bill while they are feeding. Once you have hold of the pelican's bottom bill you can then secure both top and bottom in one hand, however, always ensure you place a finger in between the bills allowing the bird to breath without any difficulty. While holding the bird in this way it may try to escape your grip by moving its neck around Do not hold it in a vice grip, you could cause further damage, move with the pelican and try to secure its body by placing your other hand over its back to enable you to grasp it under your arm. This hold is referred to as the bagpipe hold. Remember do not wrestle with a pelican while holding its bill, particularly the top bill as this can break quiet easily. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 11

ECHIDNAS The Echidna is found throughout all Australia. Its short, round, compact body, is covered in very sharp spines. The legs are short but very strong, the front feet are designed to be used like spades and the back feet are used for digging and grooming. Natural Food - Termites, ants, worms and grubs. Considering their size, they are remarkably strong. Most common reasons for rescues involve being hit by cars. Other calls are about uninjured echidnas that have moved into a garden. If the animal is left alone and monitored, it will most likely move on. Bushfires and floods also have a major impact on these animals. In September young animals, approximately I kg, are everywhere. They are emerging from winter sleep and looking for home ranges. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING: The snout of an echidna is a very sensitive organ that can be easily damaged. NEVER USE A WIRE CONTAINER TO HOLD ECHIDNAS. Echidnas are great escape artists. When they know you are present they remain very quiet. However, once there is persistent quiet and they think you have gone, they become very active in an attempt to escape. Any place where they can find a point of leverage, they will use their claws to break open a container. NEVER LEAVE AN ECHIDNA LOOSE IN YOUR CAR HOUSE OR GARDEN During the months of September to February females may have young, called a 'Puggle'. Care must be taken when rescuing at these times. A female could have an egg in her underside or a young puggle attached to hair in her milk patch, which is under her. Or she may have a young pug, left behind in a constructed nursery burrow, close by. Once caught they need to be housed in a cool, quiet area. They are very sensitive to heat stress. They must be -kept at a temperature below 25º C at all times. You need to monitor this very carefully. You must get clear, accurate information about the encounter site, so the animal can be returned ASAP. Never release an echidna that has been found near road or hit by a car. It must have an xray, to check DO NOT PLACE A PUGGLE ON HEAT, YOU-WILL KILL IT!!! RESCUE EQUIPMENT 12

Large, plastic, garbage bin with metal clamps to latch, or tall plastic container (eg one from GoLo etc) and place holes in the lid only. Towels. A length of rope. a bottle of water/hose. TRANSPORTATION Line the bottom of the bin or plastic container with a towel or cotton sheet. Do NOT put dirt in the bin. If the animal you rescue is injured the wound will have to be cleaned before being assessed. Remember, do not use a wire cage. If the air holes are not put up high enough the echidna will use them to try to climb out of the bin, they are very good climbers. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING Beware of the spines. Echidnas do not bite. An echidna has several defence mechanisms it can use to try to protect itself It may curl up, withdrawing its limbs, bringing its spines into use, it will defecate and urinate, it will dig straight down rapidly and sink into the soil, leaving only a patch of spines visible. Tap the echidnas' forehead with your fingertip, its hind legs may dart out. Grasp the back legs, lift and gently, place head first into the bin. They like to be covered over so you can place a towel on top of them. If you know or suspect that the animal has been hit by a car or has suffered trauma to the legs DO NOT PICK IT UP BY THE HIND LEGS!! Wrap it in a towel, scoop it up and place it gently in the bin. Spades have been used to dig up echidnas that were firmly dug in. Extreme caution must be used with this technique. A spade can damage, even amputate, the snout or feet. If this method is used you must dig right around, but well away from, the animal. Digging well below it. Another successful method is to put running water from a hose or bottled water on the front of the echidna, they will sometimes back out. Be ready with a thick towel, scoop it up and put in the rescue bin. SPECIAL RESCUE SITUATIONS: PUGGLE RESCUE Use a small cotton pouch, pillowcase or clean cotton material, wrap puggle up and place in small, cool, container (six pack esky) or small container lined with cool material. DO NOT PLACE ON HEAT, YOU-WILL KILL IT!!! Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 13

FROGS and TOADS Frogs and Toads are amphibians with strong legs and no tail. They are insectivorous. They do not drink, obtaining moisture largely by absorption through the skin. The most common frogs you will encounter being a rescuer are: Green Tree Frog, Dainty Tree Frog, Eastern Dwarf Tree Frog, and Marsh frog. Cane Toads have been found in the Hunter region IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Frogs overheat easily, especially in summer and during transportation, so ensure they are kept cool. Do not attempt to feed the frog or put any more water in the container to make it swim as they can easily drown if unable to get out of deep water. Frogs should be handled with washed and well-rinsed hands as frogs have permeable skin, which means they can absorb into their body substances that may come into contact with their skin. Never release a cane toad. EQUIPMENT Jars, ice-cream containers, and Chinese take-out containers are ideal, and don't forget to provide air holes. Sponge- Keep a piece of washed out sponge. Water- Rain water is best, if none on hand use bottled water or as a last resort, a slight amount of tap water. TRANSPORTING Transportation and temporary housing can be done with the use of a container with a securely fitting, lid. A moist clean sponge or cloth can be placed on the bottom to maintain a moist environment and to provide protection of soft flooring. Pour a small amount of water into the transport container. Just a small amount of water is required to keep the frog moist -don't provide so much water the frog is swimming. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING Most frogs jump forward and so when trying to catch a frog, use a container and place it quickly over the frog and then carefully slide the lid under and secure. Frogs are best picked up and enclosed in the hand/s. Keeping in mind most frogs will jump forward, come from behind with your hand and place your hand over the frog and carefully scoop it up again being careful not to squish it! Careful, they're slippery. Keep frogs in a cool place until further assessment by the coordinator or vet. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 14

KOALAS Most common reasons for rescues include motor vehicle injuries, cat or dog attacks, bushfires, orphaned young and natural diseases.. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING assessment and examination Remember koalas may look cute but have the potential to scratch and bite. Koalas will latch on and are difficult to remove. All koalas on ground must come into care for Get exact location of where the koala is found. Adult male are highly territorial. No koala is to be released without contacting coordinator. RESCUE EQUIPMENT A secure container or two laundry baskets tied together and lined with towels/sheets. Blankets/ towels. Other ideas include a garbage bin with holes in lid or solid box. Avoid cages or hessian bags Welding gloves Telescopic pole with a plastic bag or cloth attached to end TRANSPORTATION You need to create a quiet, safe and secure place in your car but not in boot. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE and HANDLING Using large towel or blanket, throw it over the koala. Grasp the koala under fore arms and quickly place in container taking care not to be bitten or scratched. Secure the container. SPECIAL RESCUE SITUATIONS High in tree- use telescopic pole and place on or above koala s head with the idea of encouraging koala to descend the tree If too high call coordinator to activate an approved tree climber or other assistance. Photo above courtesy of Port Macquarie Koala Hospital. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 15

LIZARDS, GOANNAS & TURTLES All reptiles are ectothermic animals relying on the sun for heat and are therefore more active during summer with many hibernating during winter (reference in this guide is to fresh water turtles not Marine Sea Turtles). Most common species encountered include the Eastern blue tongue, bearded dragon, water dragon, lace monitor and the long neck turtle. Major reasons required for rescue include road accidents, dog attacks, lawn mowing incidents, and for some, no reason at all. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Do not attempt to feed. Do not place on heat. Be certain that they are injured before taking into care. TURTLES: KEEP DRY Do not place injured turtles in water. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Pillow case Rescue basket Masking tape RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING To pick up a lizard, place your index finger and thumb to the sides of the neck and scoop the other hand under the belly. Alternately, put your hand inside the pillowcase and grab the lizard or turtle and turn the pillowcase inside out, thus allowing the reptile to stay in the pillowcase. Skinks including Blue Tongues: Take care as they can "drop" their tails if pressure is applied to that region. Dragons can be picked up by the tail VERY QUICKLY and then dropped into the rescue basket and put the lid down quickly. Goannas: Unless you are experienced and have the okay from your Co-ordinator then please do not attempt to go near Goannas. Turtles: If the shell is cracked and no pieces missing, then re-align the shell as best you can. Collect any broken pieces. Always keep dry. If there is a hole in the shell, use the masking tape to cover the hole, to prevent maggots/bacteria entering. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 16

MACROPODS Macropods are members of a group of the marsupials, including Kangaroos and Wallabies. They have characteristically strong back legs and travel by hopping and bear young which feed from mammary glands in a pouch of the mother, where the young stay from birth gradually leaving the pouch as they develop. Most common reasons for rescues involve collisions with cars etc. When you arrive at the place where the animal has been injured, make sure you pull it off the road into a safe area. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Remove dead animals from the road so they don't attract prey animals and cause more accidents. Use your hazard lights to warn traffic. Beware of front claws, hind legs and teeth. THE SECRET OF SUCCESS IS PLANNING RESCUE EQUIPMENT Pouch - A canvas haversack is ideal. Cotton liners - from pillowcase size to handkerchief size. Woolly liners - old jumpers or sloppy joe type material of matching sizes. Heat source - hot water bottle, wheat bag etc, thermometer. Old towels. Large catch-bag - needs to be big enough to fit a very large animal and strong enough not to rip. Other useful equipment: Sharp scissors - bandage scissors are ideal but any sharp scissors will do. First Aid Equipment - sterile gauze pads, compression bandage, rubber gloves, leather gloves, and a decent set of pliers. Torches - a couple of really good torches - large and small'- check they are in working order. Miscellaneous - note pad and paper, maps, street directory, fluorescent spray paint and a key field guide to animals. (The rescue "pouch" should consist of an inner cotton liner next to the joeys skin, with one or two outer woollen layers for insulation and the haversack on the outside. The heat source should be placed inside the haversack beside the other layers between it and the joey - note beside the joey, NOT under it.) 17

TRANSPORTATION You need to create a safe and comfortable place in your vehicle to transport the animal pouches should be hung from the back of the car seats or placed on the floor a washing basket, placed firmly between the front and back seats is also good. Large bagged animals should ideally be placed on a blanket or foam in the back of a wagon, if you are using a sedan you need to pack things on the floor so it is level with the seat. An unconscious animal needs to have its head elevated above its stomach to prevent regurgitation, but with the mouth and nose pointed down to allow blood, saliva etc. to drain freely, ensure that the breathing passages are clear. Once the animal has been bagged, seek the advice of a vet or coordinator immediately. It must be remembered that many of these large injured macropods will have to be euthanased as their injuries will be fatal. ROADSIDE RESCUES Check if it is a female with a pouch. If so gently spread the opening of the pouch and look inside to see if there is a joey. A very small joey may still be very firmly attached to mother's nipple. To remove it place your thumb and forefinger on either side of the joey s mouth and, applying gentle pressure, ease the nipple from the joey s mouth.the joey should be immediately be put into an appropriately sized pouch with a heat source next to it, see below. An animal that has been chased or laying in the sun for several hours on a hot day may be hyperthermic (overheated), the signs are that the animal feeling hot to the touch, panting and/or licking the front paws. Get the animal out of the heat as soon as possible and spray the bag with water, get into a cool environment (see diagram below). An animal that has injuries, is in shock or has been laying for several hours in the cold may be hypothermic (low body temperature) keep well covered, put hot water bottles, wheat bags etc around the body. If the adult kangaroo is alive and injured it should be put into a secure travel bag. Seek immediate veterinarian help or advice from your coordinator or an experienced carer. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING OF LARGE MACROPODS Capturing and bagging large kangaroos can be difficult, especially if the animal is still mobile. Take a minute to assess the situation and if you can not see a simple way to catch the animal then call for more help from experienced people (it may take up to six people to catch an animal in some situations). Develop a plan and work out your moves beforehand so that each person knows their role. Have all your equipment - bags, torches etc - at hand. When catching a kangaroo or wallaby, one person will need to grab the base of the animals' tail, never by the arm or leg. 18

Basic Rescue Training Lift its back feet off the ground, and away from the body - a second person will hold the bag open and close to the ground, so that the animal can be put in head first and then the bag tied securely. If the animal has tail or spinal injuries, or if it cannot stand up, then place the bag over the animals head and then put the top half of the bag down to hip level, gently roll the animal to its other side, pull down the other side of the bag and slide the rest of the animal into it, secure the bag. Once in the bag the kangaroo it will usually quieten down fairly quickly. AVOID thrashing, this can result in spinal injuries and, overheating - overheating and stress can result in MYOPATHY. COLLECTING A JOEY FROM A MEMBER OF THE PUBLIC Go well equipped and prepared for anything. Get the joey, get all the relevant information and get out of there! We need to know: 1. Where did the joey come from? Get as specific a location as possible. 2. What were the circumstances? 3. Was the mother hit by a car? 4. If so, was there a lot of damage, particularly to the torso? 5. Was she shot? 6. Not found at all? 7. Did she look freshly killed or was she decomposing? 8. Was the joey in or out of the pouch? 9. Was it cold or had it been lying on hot ground? 10. How long have they had the joey? 11. Have they tried to feed it? 12. Have they given it anything to drink? If so what and how? Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 19

Basic Rescue Training MARINE SEA TURTLES Marine Sea Turtles are air breathing reptiles and can range from 30gm hatchlings to 400kg adults. Most common reasons for rescues include being beached, or floating in a weakened state on the surface of the water or at the waters edge have involved injuries from boats, floating, heavy parasitic infestation (barnacles) or caught in fish traps. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING: It is always very important that a sick or injured turtle can hold its head out of water or will need to be removed from the water so it does not drown. Never place a turtle on it back. Marine turtles are extremely sensitive to heat. Keep the turtle cool with wet towels. Never place a turtle in the boot of your car. A covered ute or van can be used, and there must be sufficient airflow to prevent overheating in the journey. Sea turtles should never be transported with water in the container. Before attempting a rescue you must contact the coordinator, or an experienced carer, help is only a phone call away. NPWS must be informed of all sea turtle rescues. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Turtle harness Plenty of wet towels/sheets TRANSPORTATION Sea turtles should be kept moist or wet during the trip. Cover the turtle with wet towels/sheets, covering all the shell and soft skin areas. Foam padding or wet blankets should be used under the turtle and the turtle should be placed face down. Never place a turtle on it back. If the turtle is very weak, rolled up towels should be placed under the bony bridges of the shell to take some weight off the plastron, and allow it to expand more easily during respiration. Elevating the front end of the turtle slightly may also help aid respiration. Care should be taken to ensure the turtle is well balanced, so it does not damage itself while being transported. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING Always wear gloves when handling a marine turtle. 20

Turtles requiring rescue may show varying degrees of weakness and lack of response to stimuli to the point of being lifeless and when the body is lifted, the head and limbs should be held with some tone and not hang limply. Marine turtles are not generally aggressive, however they can inflict a severe bite, care so be taken to avoid being within swing distance of the head. Larger animals can also harm you by slapping you with their strong front flippers when being lifted. Small animals can be lifted by holding the animal by the carapace behind the back of the neck with one hand while the other can hold the rear of the carapace above the tail. Hold the animal away from the body so the thrashing of the front flippers does not dislodge the hold. A small wet towel or cloth can be place over the eyes of the turtle, to help calm the animal down, but not across the mouth or nostrils. Marine turtles can range from 100g to 400 kg. Smaller animals have generally few problems but larger animals may require up to four people or mechanical assistance to lift or move. Contact the coordinator for accessing the turtle harness. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 21

Basic Rescue Training NATIVE RODENTS Native rodents occurring in our area include the water rat, swamp rat, bush rat, grassland melomys, and the New Holland mouse. These natives arrived in Australia over one million years ago, don't carry diseases and avoid human habitations. Native rats feed on sedges, grasses, fungi and insects. By day they shelter in hollow logs or burrows. These animals breed in the warmer months and only live one or two years. Some of these species are difficult to distinguish from introduced species; therefore all rescued animals should be treated as native species until positively identified. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED Capture bag Towels Carry cage/basket IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Don t place a sick or injured water rat in water. TRANSPORTATION Place into a secured bag before placing into the carry cage. Young should be transported in a secured pouch and provided with heat if necessary. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING They may also be secured at the back of the head/neck area and supporting the body with the other hand, you may wish to use a towel. Smaller species should be handled by immobilising their heads and supporting the body; smaller species may only require one hand to handle. You may wish to use a small cloth to handle them. QUICK IDENTIFICATION REFERENCE OF NATIVE RATS Species Tail Length Feet Feral or Native Bush Rat Same as head and body length Pink Native Swamp Rat Tail shorter than head and body length Dark Native Black Rat Tail longer than head and body length Pink Introduced Brown Rat (uncommon) Tall shorter than head Pink Introduced We wish to acknowledge Joan Haeden and Leigh Taylor and Blue Mountain Wires. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 22

Basic Rescue Training PLATYPUS The platypus is a very shy creature, seen by few. Unique, with its sensitive duck-like leathery bill that is used, not only to nudge small rocks away but also to locate the its food source, consisting of crustaceans, worms, frogs and yabbies. They have webbed feet with claws on each foot, and an almost beaver-like tail. They are covered with waterproof fur over part of their upper and lower body. Should a platypus need long term care it is transferred to experienced carers and handlers with the necessary, long term, care facilities. Reasons for past rescues have involved young animals affected by illness and drought or caught in fish traps. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING: Males have a poisonous spur on their hind legs. The bill is a very sensitive organ. Great care must be taken at all times to prevent injury. Temperature - A platypus is extremely sensitive to heat. The must never be kept at a temperature above 25 deg C. You need to take particular care when transporting the animal or where the holding container is placed. YOU CAN KILL A PLATYPUS BY OVERHEATING IT!! Platypuses live in dry burrows, above the water line. DO NOT PLACE WATER IN THE RESCUE CONTAINER. Never use wire containers or cages due to the injuries and damage the animal could inflict on itself. Before attempting a rescue you must contact the coordinator, or an experienced carer, help is only a phone call away. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Large, smooth sided container/box eg: large, plastic garbage bin large, heavy duty, waxed cardboard box a very large esky Plenty of towels A net Large cotton bag TRANSPORTATION A platypus is a great escape artist. Even for a baby you need a tall container with smooth sides. Only have very small air holes, up near the top of the container. The lid must be able to be clamped on tight. Line the bottom of the container with towels. If you roll a towel, like a hollow, with one end closed off, the platypus will go into this 'burrow' and feel secure. 23

Basic Rescue Training RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING To catch a platypus, throw a towel over it and then scoop it up. A net can be used but it must be used with extreme care. To use a large cotton bag, place your hand inside the bag, grab the animal by the tail, and holding the animal away from yourself, let the bag fall over the animal. Wrap the animal in a towel and lift by the body. Take care of the spur on the back leg. Always place the container in a cool, quiet area - as all rescued fauna should be. Again, remember the bill, take care to prevent it being damaged. The animal may try to bite you, don't be concerned, it doesn't hurt! Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 24

Basic Rescue Training POSSUMS AND GLIDERS Possums and gliders are arboreal and nocturnal marsupials. They commonly include the Brushtail and Ringtail Possum, Sugar Glider, Feathertail Glider and the threatened Squirrel Glider and Yellow Bellied Glider. Most common reasons for rescues include motor vehicle injuries, cat or dog attacks, gliders caught on barbed wire fences or orphaned young. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING A possum or glider that appears quiet and weak may react aggressively to being handled and can inflict a nasty bite. Handling as recommended and keeping the possum wrapped in a towel or bagged will minimise the risk. The rescue carry cage should be kept covered at all times to minimise stress. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Pouch - A canvas haversack is ideal. Old towels Cotton liners - from pillowcase size to handkerchief size. Woolly liners - old jumpers or sloppy joey type material of matching sizes. Heat source, - hot water bottle, wheat bag etc, thermometer. Cat carry cage - available from the vets' or a 'cycling' basket are ideal. Please note that gliders can get out of cat baskets if the wire is not covered with fine mesh. Other useful equipment Sharp scissors - bandage scissors are ideal but any sharp scissors will do. First Aid Equipment - sterile gauze pads, compression bandage, rubber gloves. Leather gloves, decent set of pliers, roll of wire. Torches - a couple of really good torches - large and small - check they are in working order. Miscellaneous - note pad and paper, maps, street directory, plastic sheet, fluorescent spray paint, and a key guide to mammals. TRANSPORTATION All injured possums or gliders should be transported in a secure carry cage/basket. If the possum or glider is contained in a pouch or pillowcase, tie the top of the bag securely then place in a carry cage, lined with a towel. The cage should be kept covered at all times to minimise stress. Possum or glider joeys that are without their mother should immediately be put into an appropriate pouch with a heat source next to it if necessary, the top of the liner should be tied securely to prevent escape. The pouch should consist of the cotton liner against the joey's skin, with one or two outer woollen layers for insulation and the haversack on the outside. The 25

Basic Rescue Training heat source should be placed inside the haversack with the other layers between it and the joey, beside the joey NOT underneath it. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE and HANDLING The easiest way to pick up a possum is to place your arm inside a pillowcase, then grasp the possum by the base of the tail, lift and then using your other hand pull the pillowcase down over your arm and the possum in one fluid motion. A possum with spinal injuries should be held behind the head and at the top of the tail, firmly but gently, and placed in the cage. Some possums, particularly small gliders such as feathertails, will occasionally go into torpor that is, they curl up, lower their body temperature and become quite stiff - it is easily mistaken for death. If in doubt warm the animal gently. An animal that has been chased or laying in the hot sun for several hours on a hot day may be hyperthermic (overheated), signs of hyperthermia are: the animal feeling hot to the touch, panting, licking of the front paws. Remove from heat as soon as possible, spray the bag with water, get into a cool environment. An animal that has injuries, is in shock or has been laying for several hours in the cold may be hypothermic (low body temperature). Keep well covered, put hot water bottles, wheat bags, etc. around the body. SPECIAL RESCUE SITUATIONS Many calls regarding gliders are from people who have found them caught on barbed wire fences. It is important to tell the caller to wait until you get there - people are tempted to try to get the animal free by cutting their gliding membrane - this will generally cause irreparable damage. You must gently unwind the glider from the barb. If this is not possible it may be necessary to cut the fence. This should be done in the following way: 1. Cover the glider with a towel. 2. Cut a suitable length of wire from your roll. 3. Attach one end of the wire behind the second barb, to the left of the glider, pull the wire across to the other side of the glider and attach firmly to the second barb on the right of the glider. 4. Keeping the glider securely wrapped in the towel, cut the barbed wire an inch or so each side of the glider. 5. Twist the centre of the replaced wire until the fence is restrained. 6. The glider should be gotten into care immediately - it will sometimes need to be sedated to remove the wire with minimum damage. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 26

Basic Rescue Training WOMBATS Wombats are large, solid burrowing marsupials with coarse fur, a backward opening pouch, short legs, and powerful digging claws. They are herbivorous, and live under ground during the day emerging to feed at night on coarse native grasses and other vegetation. Most common reasons for rescues involve being hit by car, carry a transmittable disease Sarcoptic Mange or located in an unsuitable environment. IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN RESCUING Remember every wombat, including a joey, is to be treated as if it had mange until it is proven not to. Use barrier techniques - wear rubber gloves, don't hold the wombat against your body without a plastic sheet between you and the joey in the pouch. People are often tempted to put a joey down inside their shirt to keep it warm - this is a very effective way to catch mange! No wombat with mange should be relocated - this will just spread the disease! Wombats are nocturnal, burrowing animals - they do not tolerate temperatures above 28 degrees C Under no circumstances should they ever be left in the hot sun or in a hot car. If using a wombat trap it must never be left unattended under any circumstances and the wombat must be removed as soon as possible. RESCUE EQUIPMENT Pouch - A canvas haversack is ideal. Cotton liners - from pillowcase size to handkerchief size. Woolly liners - old jumpers or sloppy joe type material of matching sizes. Heat source - hot water bottle, wheat bag etc, thermometer. Old towels Sharp scissors - bandage scissors are ideal but any sharp scissors will do. First Aid Equipment - sterile gauze pads, compression bandage, rubber gloves, leather gloves, and a decent set of pliers. Large catch bag - needs to be big enough to flit a very large animal and strong enough not to rip (Canvas is best). Large container to put adult in - dog size flight container or metal mesh - needs to be very secure. Torches - a couple of really good torches - large and small - check they are in working order. Miscellaneous - note pad and paper, maps, street directory, plastic sheeting, fluorescent spray paint, key field guide to animals. TRANSPORTATION 27

Basic Rescue Training All adult wombats should be put into a secure travel cage. Seek immediate veterinarian help or advice from your coordinator or an experienced carer. RESCUE PROCEDURE: WILD CAPTURE & HANDLING OF ADULT WOMBATS Adult wombats which have injuries from car accidents, etc-, need to be handled very carefully. Lift correctly to avoid being bitten or scratched, but gently to avoid further damage to limbs, spine etc. A wombat that has spinal injuries or is unconscious should be rolled onto a large blanket or tarpaulin and lifted gently into a large cage or a secure box (do not risk a large wombat regaining consciousness in transit without it being in a secure cage). Keep the head higher than the body and the nose pointing down to prevent the animal choking on secretions and keep the airway open. If the dead wombat is a female and there is evidence that she has had a joey in the pouch (pouch stretched, elongated nipple) listen carefully for sounds of distress from the displaced joey. You may have to wait onsite or return at regular intervals in order to catch the joey. It may be necessary to place a trap against the mother's pouch, then withdraw, so the joey will come back to attempt to suckle. SPECIAL RESCUE SITUATIONS: ANIMALS WITH MANGE Sarcoptic Mange is a condition similar to scabies in humans. The sarcoptic mite is a microscopic member of the spider family, which buries itself into the skin to breed. This causes intense itching, inflammation of the skin and eventually debilitation, infection and death. It is spread from wombat to wombat as they move in and out of their burrows. Wombats are generally nocturnal animals and mange may not be noticed until the animal is so debilitated that it is seen trying to graze during the daylight hours: Many will be beyond help and may need to be euthanased, others will still be in good physical condition and able to be treated. These animals will be treated on site so that the mange can be eradicated from their burrow as well as their body. An experienced wombat rescuer should be consulted to assess such factors as the severity of the mange, the condition of the wombat, if treatment should be attempted, which treatment is appropriate and if euthanasia is a suitable option. Contact the coordinator or senior rehabilitator. 28