WCHS Volunteer Dog Walkers (10am 12pm, 7 days a week)

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1 Potential volunteers: WCHS Volunteer Dog Walkers (10am 12pm, 7 days a week) Complete the survey below use back of page if necessary After orientation, all volunteers will be assigned a level (color coded) that defines which WCHS dogs they ll be allowed to walk see below for definitions of levels To level up, you ll display your handling of a dog from the next level with a WCHS staff member. This will happen Sunday afternoons after orientation (at about 4:00pm.) After you ve been walking dogs in your level for a while and feel ready to advance, notify WCHS staff and they ll schedule you for a Sunday meeting. 1) Have you ever lived with or owned a dog? If yes, how long ago? 2) What breeds/types of dogs? 3) Did they have any special needs or behavioral issues? Please describe. 4) Have you ever attended a dog training class? If so, when and where? 5) Have you ever trained a dog? To do what? 6) Have you ever worked with animals professionally? If yes, please describe when and what the work entailed. 7) Are you confident in handling very strong dogs? If no, what types of dog are you comfortable handling? 8) Have you ever used a Gentle Leader or Halti (no-pull head collar)? 9) Please describe what you d recognize as a relaxed dog: An anxious dog: A fearful dog: An aggressive dog: Level one Yellow: Small and leash friendly dogs that are easy to handle (must be able to physically handle a gentle dog) Level two Orange: Strong dogs that are more difficult to handle (must be able to physically handle a strong dog) Level three Blue: Strong dogs that are more difficult to handle + may be fearful or anxious around people (must be able to read canine body language) Level four Pink: Strong dogs that are more difficult to handle + may be fearful or anxious around people + may display fear aggression (must be able to read canine body language and adjust your own to diffuse potentially dangerous situations)

2 LEVEL 1 DOGS: VOLUNTEER GUIDELINES Level 1 is essential to our goal: increasing the adoptability of resident dogs! Please continue to do level 1 exercises every time you visit, even if you ve moved on to higher levels! We will use these basic classical conditioning (forming positive associations) and reward training techniques to achieve god behavior, manners and temperament, and to get the dogs to like all sorts of people; the ultimate goal is a totally quiet kennel! Please carry a leash with you at all times to desensitize the dogs to seeing people with leashes. Forming Positive Associations (Classical Conditioning) Use classical conditioning to teach resident dogs to enjoy people approaching their kennel. The dog will progressively form a positive association to people and look forward to seeing people approach the kennel; the dog will then be less inclined to bark, lunge, growl or hide. Do approach the kennel and toss or hand-feed kibble to the dog, REGARDLESS of the dog s reaction. DO NOT hover, pressure or encourage the dog to come forward, and DO NOT request any specific behavior. Reward Training Use reward-training techniques to teach resident dogs proper kennel presentation, specifically to sit and shush when people approach. On each visit, approach the kennel and stand outside to observe the dog; patience is the key! Wait, WITHOUT saying anything, until the dog does something you like. Then reward the praise and a piece of kibble. Please keep in mind the adoptable traits we are looking to reinforce. (e.g., friendly approach, eye contact, sitting, lying down, silence, etc.) If a dog stops barking or stops bouncing around for a least 3 seconds, reward it. DO identify and reward desirable doggy behavior with a piece of kibble. DO NOT make a verbal request for a specific position, call the dog or lure him into position. DO keep your eyes and ears open for opportunities, particularly with barking dogs: if you hear a dog begin to bark, continue to work at what you were doing, but pay attention for the moment when the dog stops barking (and he will eventually stop). Then hurry over and throw a party! Shush We can also actively teach a dog to shush: DO put the barking on command, so that you can work with the dog when she doesn t particularly want to bark. DO ask the dog to bark when she is fairly calm and praise her for doing so; then ask her to shush and waggle a treat in front of her nose. When she stops to sniff, offer the treat and praise the dog. DO repeat this sequence many times- no matter how long it took the dog to shush the first time, it will get shorter and shorter with repetition! Level 1 Safety

3 Always read the kennel card and behavior notes BEFORE interaction with ANY resident animal, and please works only with animals designated for, or below, your level of training. Never stick your whole arm or hand through the kennel fence. Remember to follow your local facility s guidelines (such as dress code) for safety when interacting with the animals. LEVEL 2 DOGS: VOLUNTEER GUIDELINES The goal of level 2 is to desensitize the dog to seeing the leash and to people entering the kennel. This will decrease the likelihood of overexcited displays like jumping, mouthing, pawing, etc. The focus of level 2 training is to teach the dog to display appropriate manners while a person enters and exits the kennel, to teach the dog to sit politely while his collar and leash are attached, and not to jump up. Entering the Kennel Do wait for (or lure) the dog to sit before opening the kennel door. If the dog jumps up as you are lifting the door latch, step back and wait for him to sit again before attempting to enter. Do repeat this process as many times as necessary until the dog remains sitting while you open the door and enter the kennel. Practice makes perfect! Do Not push the dog aside with your arm or leg as you squeeze in. Do Not open the door and enter the kennel while the dog is jumping up, pushing to get past you or barking. Once Inside Do wait for the dog to calm down again before interacting with him (i.e., ignore jumping, etc.) Do wait for (or lure) the dog to sit before putting on the collar/gentle leader or attaching the leash. Do start over every time the dog breaks position. Do repeat this process several times in a session. Do Not put on collar/ gentle leader OR attach the leash while he is standing or jumping. Do Not physically push the dog into position. Exiting the Kennel Do lure the dog to sit and back out carefully OR toss a few pieces of kibble to the far side of the run and slip out backwards. Do always face the dog when entering and exiting the kennel. Level 2 Safety Enter and exit the kennel quickly and carefully, ad always keep your eye on the dog. Be sure that your dog s equipment fits properly. We recommend practicing level 2 with partner; consult your local facility for guidelines. Once inside the kennel, NEVER turn your back on the dog. If you are feeling overwhelmed, shout for help. In an emergency, toss all of your kibble AWAY from you, scattering it over the floor, and exit promptly. LEASH ETIQUETTE FOR SHELTER DOGS

4 GOAL: Our focus is to walk the dogs safely and comfortably through the shelter and on the street. Training shelter dogs to walk on a loose leash may increase their chance of being adopted. It is more fun taking a stroll in the park with a dog that does not pull on leash than with a dog that has no leash manners. We hope to teach our dogs that there should always be slack in the leash. We control how much freedom (leash length) the dog has, but no matter the leash length, the dog is taught not to pull into the leash. EQUIPMENT: Shelter dogs are fitted with a no-slip collar, also known a Martingale collar. Some might need a head halter, like a gentle leader. Others might be fitted with easy-walk harnesses. All the necessary training equipment is stored in the dog s designated area. Leashes shouldbe4-6 feet long. Do not use a retractable leash. INSTRUCTIONS FOR MANAGING DOGS ON LEASH INSIDE THE SHELTER: 1. Have treats and the necessary training equipment with you when entering the kennel. 2. Use the Kennel Protocol (see document) beforeputting on the dog s equipment. 3. Dogs are walked on the left side. 4. Have both hands on the leash at all times except when feeding the dog a treat. 5. Keep the handle of the leash in your right hand, thumb through the loop. Fasten the rest of the handle in your right fist, or slide your right hand through the loop holding the leash. The right hand is your anchor. 6. The left hand is the hand closest to the dog. Use your left hand to control the length of the leash. You also dispense treats to the dog with your left hand. 7. The dog is kept close to your left side when going in and out kennels, through the shelter rooms, and hallways. When needed (for dogs who lunge at other dogs or cats), keep the dog distracted with a treat, peanut butter on a spoon, or a toy. 8. If another dog is being walked down the hallway, wait until the dog is out of sight before you enter the space with your shelter dog INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALKING DOGS ON LEASH OUTSIDE THE SHELTER: 1. Once outside the shelter, give the dog a chance to eliminate. stand like a tree ; Don t engage with the dog and give the dog enough leash to sniff. 2. Keep both hands on the leash. The left hand controls the length of the leash. The right hand is the lifeline holding the leash loop. 3. Praise the dog and reward him every now and then if he is walking on a loose leash by your side. Loose leash means that there is slack in the lead and the leash is forming a letter U or J. 4. Always reward the dog at your left side, facing the same direction you are. In time, the dog will start gravitating towards where the treats are dispensed. 5. Give and Go. The instant that the dog starts forging ahead, release the leash from the left hand, turn abruptly and go the opposite direction. Ask the dog to follow you with a Let s go as you are turning. Let s go means catch up with me or keep up with me. When the dog is back on your left side facing the same direction as you are, take the leash back with your left hand, while simultaneously praising and rewarding the dog for keeping up with you. Once you are walking forward, be prepared for another give and go, as soon s the dog starts to move ahead of you. 6. Some dogs tend to cross in front. If the dog begins to cut you off, turn into the dog (to your left) and walk in the opposite direction. As you turn cue the dog with a Let s go. HELPFUL HINTS: Before the walk, some dogs might need a short play session t burn off some energy. A few attention exercises, like look will encourage the dog to focus on the handler. Bring a treat from the dog s nose up to your eyes, saying look. If he makes eye contact following your hand, mark the behavior with a click or a yes and reward the dog with the treat. Teach the dog Let s go. With the dog on your left side, bring a treat at the dog s nose with your left hand. When the dog follows the treat, pivot to your right slowly, saying Let s go. If the dog follows, mark the behavior with a click or a cheerful yes ad reward the dog with the treat out of your left hand.

5 Always reward good behavior. Movement and a high rate of reinforcement (for good behavior) makes loose leash walking more exciting for the dog. CONSIDERATIONS: Know your strengths; always walk dogs that you can handle. Only walk dogs that you have been approved to walk (green, blue, or red level). Loose leash walking is a difficult behavior to teach a dog. It takes a lot of patience and consistency. INTRODUCING A GENTLE LEADER GOAL: To teach the dog to accept the gentle leader (GL.) head collar, and be comfortable wearing it on walks GENERAL RULES Progress at the dog s comfort level. If the dog remains uncomfortable at a given step, do NOT progress any further until the dog is comfortable. Make sure the GL is fitted properly. The neck strap should fit tightly, just behind the dog s ears. The nose loop should be as loose as possible, but snug enough so that the dog can t pull it ff of their nose. Each step below should take 2-7 sessions. Sessions should occur 1-3 times daily. Dogs who are comfortable with the GL the first time it is put on will not need this slow introduction process and can start wearing it on walks immediately. INSTRUCTIONS 1. Pup the GL on and then take it off of the dog. Repeat 5-15 times. The dog should enjoy this exercise a. Use two treats- give the first treat to lure the dog s head through the nose loop and the second treat after you have fastened the head strap. b. The dog should VOLUNTEER to put their nose through the nose loop- do NOT push it on to the dog; this can cause a dog to avoid the GL. 2. Put the GL on and leave it on for gradually longer periods of time, when playing, eating, or in office foster. 3. Put the GL on during walks, but do NOT attach the leash to it (attach the leash to the dog s collar or harness) 4. Put the GL on during walks, and attach the leash to it. After step four, the dog should be comfortable wearing the GL; use it on all walks. DO NOT ever correct a dog with a check of the leash when they are wearing the GL. To teach a dog not to pull, you should stop moving forward when the dog is pulling, wait for slack leash, praise, feed the dog a treat, and move forward when the dog releases tension on the leash.

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