The Agility Coach Notebooks

Transcription

1 s Volume Issues through 0 By Kathy Keats

2 Action is the foundational key to all success. Pablo Piccaso This first volume of The Agility Coach s, available each week with a subscription from, have been compiled for your enjoyment. Be active in your learning process. Draw, write and be involved with what you learn from each session. Visit for online agility programs, coaching, sport psychology, Dartfish video and free course downloads. Kathy Keats is a world class competitor and coach. She and her dog Mojo were Canada s first ever World Agility Champions. Kathy has successfully competed in basketball, dog agility and sheepdog trials. In the various disciplines she has won multiple local, regional, national and international competitions, multiple individual awards, and by the end of 0 will have represented Canada at a world championship in the three different sports. Kathy has also represented Canada as a coach at the international level. Kathy is a graduate of the National Coaching Institute. She is a previous managing editor of Clean Run Magazine. All material herein is copyright to Kathy Keats and The Agility Coach.

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4 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. SET Sequence (# - #) In the first set, turning right at # (from the dog s perspective) is worth practicing, as it is a shorter path and the dog gets more speed on the approach to the tunnel. You can wrap the dog at #, keeping the dog on your left hand, and then rear cross the tunnel. A rear cross at the tunnel can be useful as it signals the turn early. Another option is to take off and beat the dog to the end of the tunnel, and then turn the dog away to # with a verbal or physical command and layer the tunnel from that point. Option is to pick the dog up on your right hand after # (wrap with a front cross), but you must make sure you don t get caught behind the # jump when sending to the tunnel, as your dog will be confused as to which way to turn out of the tunnel. If you did turn your dog left at #, you would be committed to rear cross at the tunnel or if stuck you could possibly try to beat your dog to the end of the tunnel to turn them to the # jump. Sequence (# - #0) Ideally, you would not run to the exit of the tunnel, as you would be racing your dog to the # jump, which might make it difficult to get the tight turn required at #. Hold back near the entry of the tunnel and calling your dog over # and # puts you in better position at #. At # you need your dog to collect then do a difficult weave entry at #. You can either beat your dog to the end of the poles and drive the dog into the tunnel, or rear cross the poles at the entry, but that is a very difficult cross. Sequence (#0 - #) You need collection at #0. If your dog comes out at bit wide at the tunnel that doesn t hurt you as the line is better from #0 to #. If you front cross between # and #, you must make sure not to crowd the tunnel. It s safer to rear cross #. # to # can be a front cross to tighten the line and take away off course options. You can keep your dog on your right hand from # to # but you don t gain anything and you end up behind for the next sequence. Sequence (# - #0) This sequence is essentially a long serpentine. You may need to layer # as you send to the tunnel to get into position. The trickiest part is from # to #0. If you can make it to a front cross between # and # without getting caught behind #, the sequence is relatively easy. If you can t get there, you must call the dog over # and do a landing side front cross, picking the dog up on the right hand to go to #. The # jump is recessed enough 00 V Issue Page

5 Volume Issue that treating # to #0 as a serpentine is fairly difficult, but worth trying. SET Sequence (# - #) This sequence is similar in type to the ending of SET. Lead out between # and # and once you send to #, step across to the landing side of #. Be careful not to leave until your dog is committed to #, watch your footwork. Treat # - # as a serpentine. If you can front cross on the landing side of # it will help tighten your turn to #. Beat your dog to the end of the poles so you can drive to # but be in position to cue the turn. If you can t send your dog to # and get across to the landing side of #, another option is to do a front cross on the landing side of # and then a post turn from # to #. Rear cross at # and then pull your to # and the # weave poles. Same as above, beat your dog to the end of the poles so you can drive to # but be in position to cue the turn. You can also call your dog to the poles and run down the left side of the poles, but this is a much more technical weave entry. If you do this, you will either hold back at the weave exit to pull your dog to # and then rear cross at # or front cross at the end of the poles. Sequence (# - #) One of your main goals in this sequence is to set yourself up to get to the end of the # tunnel in reasonable shape. From # to # will be a rear cross or a pull, depending on how you finish the poles. From # to #0 should be a front cross to eliminate the tunnel. A rear cross at #0 signals a turn when you want to send the dog forward to #. Stay near the exit of the # tunnel if you ve got some distance on your dog. Simply send your dog to # and then call your dog to the # tunnel from # while you stay near the # tunnel exit. Then get a head start, pick your dog up on your left and go to #. You can also take your dog to # on your right hand, but risk the dog accidently running through the poles. A variation on this is to layer the tunnel where your dog does #0 and # while you stay on the other side of the tunnel, only coming as far up to the entrance as necessary. If, from #, you can beat your dog to the tunnel entrance you can front cross or pull your dog at the entrance and stuff your dog in, and then run like heck. You d better be very fast because you ve at least got to get to the vicinity of the # jump! Sequence (# - #0) You can either do a front cross between the exit of # and the # jump and then get to the landing side of #, or you can call your dog to # with you already on the landing side of #. If you call the dog to #, make sure you start talking to your dog while he is still in the middle of the tunnel or you will get a poor turn. Do a push 00 V Issue Page

6 through to #. Volume Issue From # you can try to call/false turn to get your dog to you so that you can treat # - # like an awkward serpentine. You can also try doing a front cross on the landing side of # instead of a serpentine, wrapping your dog around your hip to #, keeping him on your right hand, then rear cross #, pull to # and wrap to the right with a front cross to go to #0. A final option is to front cross on the landing side of #, keep the dog on your right hand and wrap to #, and then rear cross on the take off side of #. This makes # on very awkward unless you are fast enough to get ahead of your dog again by the landing side of #. SETS and The challenges in these sets are similar, just presented in a different order. See how you do. Make sure to trust your dog as you will often need your dog to work independently while you get ahead to the next handling challenge. 00 V Issue Page

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8 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. In these sets, there is some unusual spacing between obstacles. The idea of training is to push you out of your comfort zone so that if you happen to see something new in a trial, it won t bother you and you may have already practiced it at home. SET Sequence (# - #) In this sequence, there are three main challenges: The turn at the double Option : Front cross between # and #, keeping dog on your left through to #. Option : Rear cross on the take-off side of #. The potential off-course at the tunnel The dog needs to know he is turning before # so that he never locks on to the tunnel. Use either deceleration, or position with lateral distance away from # to cue turn. If you are far enough ahead you may also be able to give an arm cue based on the system you are using. You may need an additional verbal cue. The weave pole entry If your dog does not have independent poles, you want to push your dog s line away from the entry to the poles so that he lands long and above the weave pole entry to help straighten his approach. Sequence (# - #) The main challenge in this sequence is getting your dog to the backside of #. The sequence from # to # is fairly straight forward. If you aren t as fast as your dog, you need independent poles and can get a head start. Whether you run into the tunnel or send to the tunnel depends on whether you plan to handle the #0 jump from the take-off side or the landing side. Getting to the backside of # In addition to the speed out of the tunnel, the #0 double causes most dogs to jump a bit longer. There are two main thoughts to handling this challenge. In both cases, as you bring your dog to #, maintain the speed of your dog and let him jump long over #, which will carry him to the backside of #. Option : Handle on the inside (landing side) of #. Send your dog over # with your right hand and support the dog to the backside. You can support with an arm, 00 V Issue Page

9 Volume Issue a verbal or simply by maintaining your speed which in many cases will throw the dog to the backside because of speed and centrifugal force. Then false turn or drop shoulder or verbal command to bring dog to you over #. Send to tunnel. Whether you handle the #0 jump on the landing or take-off side depends on how fast you are and where you need to be to get into position at #. You may need to work on some lateral distance with your dog if he is faster than you. Option : Handle on the outside (take-off side) of #. Another option is to send the dog over # and rear cross to get #. If you rear cross on the take-off side of # you risk the dog turning too tight. If you cross on the landing side of # you risk the dog turning wide and going into the tunnel. Sequence (# - #) This sequence is a speed sequence. You can run the line from # to # on either side. You have to be fast to run it on the outside with your dog on your left hand, but the tunnel entrance is easier. If you run the sequence with your dog on your right hand, especially if the dog gets ahead of you, there is more potential for an off-course or a knocked bar at # if you need to push your dog to the correct entrance. If your dog is on your left hand coming out of the tunnel, you can either front cross between # and # or just keep the dog on your left hand to the end. If your dog is on your right hand out of the tunnel, you will rear cross at # and call to #. SET Sequence (# - #) This can be done one of three ways. Option : Double push-through. Stay between # and #, so that you are on the landing side of both # and #. Going to #, with your dog on your left hand, push your dog through the gap between # and # and put him over #. Then pick him up on your right hand and push him through the gap again between # and # to put him over #. Send to the tunnel with your right hand. Option : Go through the gap. Stand behind the wing of # (where the # marker is). Call your dog to your left side either using your right hand as a false turn, come to me type command or use your left hand if you have a reliable verbal command. Make sure you don t crowd the gap yourself. Do a post turn to put the dog over #. As the dog commits to #, move across so you can do a threadle between # and #. Be careful to keep moving or you may get caught behind the jump. Send to the tunnel. A variation on the start to this is: Call the dog straight to you (like an obedience front), then send to # and do an immediate rear cross (this is called running the dog across your feet). Option : Call your dog through the gap in one of the ways listed above, then turn your dog to the left (relative 00 V Issue Page

10 Volume Issue to the dog facing #), so to the outside of the course and then either front cross or just pull and go straight to # and send to the tunnel. This is a longer path but there is less fussing around and the dogs can accelerate sooner. Depending on spacing and how the line is set this may be faster for some dogs. Sequence (# - #) The principles of this sequence are similar to Set, but now position and being ahead is even more important. Option : If you can get to the far landing side of # right on the wing, you can treat this like a normal pushthrough, but really pay attention to your footwork. Because the # jump is recessed back, if you back away from # you can t get a good push through to #. Option : If you can get to the take-off side of # and you are ahead, you can either front cross between # and #, pick the dog up with your right hand and spin them around your hip to eight or pull the dog between # and # on your left hand and then run the dog across your feet to go to #. Option : Turn the dog left at # (left relative to the dog as he faces #) and bring him around the long way to #. This is a longer path but may be your only option if you can t get up there. It will be slower but relatively safe. Sequence (# - #) Just be aware on this sequence that after #0 the dogs take a hard look at the backside of # if you don t front cross. Sequence (# - #) This sequence can be handled from the take-off or landing side of #. Handling on the landing side of # means treating the sequence like a series of push-throughs with the potential of getting hung up on the double and sending to the wrong end of the tunnel as a result. However, your line will be very efficient. The other option requires taking your dog to the take-off side of # on your left hand (easier if you can leave the poles) and then either front cross and put your dog over # on your right hand or keep the dog on your left hand and rear cross the take-off side of #. Then # to # are an easy line. Sequence (# - #0) You have more options on this sequence if you can send to # and #. This allows you to get to # - #. Then you have the option of either a push-through or a pull-through if you are there. If you can t get there, again you can go to the outside but it is a much longer path, used when trying to go clean rather than going for time. SETS and The challenges in these sets are similar, just presented in a different order. See how you do. If you are having 00 V Issue Page

11 Volume Issue trouble, look at where the dog is not performing independently enough and you have to babysit or where you are waiting too long to leave. Trust your dog, when he is committed to performing (which may be before he is actually doing the obstacle) leave and get to your next handling position. Have fun! Analyze when you are walking it, but go for it when you are running your dog! Focus on the journey, not the destination. Joy is found not in finishing an activity but in doing it. Greg Anderson 00 V Issue Page

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13 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. In these sets, you have some fast runs off of the A-frame and some quick turns. There are a number of patterns that are reminiscent of FCI style courses. Be sure to try all options. Practice trusting your dog and leaving early to get to the next handling position. Note: these suggestions can be adapted to any system. Use the appropriate hand and position for your system. SET Sequence (# - #) In this sequence, there are two main decision points: Which way to turn at # Option : Wrap your dog to the left (relative to the dog facing #, so to the inside of the pinwheel), while he is performing #, take off for # indicating the # tunnel with your right hand. You may use a post turn, false turn, or verbal to bring the dog around the # left wing. Pros: a faster, straighter line to the tunnel. Cons: a potentially slower, more difficult turn at #, which could leave you stuck behind at #. Option : Turn your dog to the right, to the outside of the pinwheel. Send to # from your left side, front cross to pick your dog up on your right hand after # and send to the tunnel while you head for #. Pros: Possibly easier to execute so that you can get up to #. Cons: Longer distance with more angles, so potentially slower path for dog. The handling at # and # The main two options here are to do a threadle between # and #. Bring the dog through the gap between # and # either with a false turn, a drop shoulder or a verbal. This will be a fast, efficient path that is easy to execute. Theoretically if you could get to # well before the dog, you could also be facing the dog as he takes # so you get great collection, pick him up on your left hand to bring/push him through the gap and put him over # on your left hand then rear cross # on the take-off side. Sequence (# - #) How to handle #0 to the # weave poles Option : Pull your dog to the poles. Your dog may take a hard look at one of the tunnels and turn wide so watch out for this. Also, you must decide how you want to handle # through # because that may influence which side of the poles you want to handle from. 00 V Issue Page

14 Volume Issue Option : Do a front cross between #0 and #. Whether you can get to this cross depends on your speed and your lateral distance skills. You may need to layer # on the run from # to # if your dog is much faster than you and you d like to do a front cross. Regardless of the option you choose, you can finish up with your dog on either hand at the end of the poles. You can rear cross the entrance, drive out of the exit with your dog on your right hand, go to # with the dog on your left and rear cross, or front cross at the end of the poles. This choice will depend upon how you want to handle the next sequence. Sequence (# - #) This can be done several ways. Option : Pick dog up out of the poles on your right hand (whether you drive/push out of the exit or front cross at the exit - depends on how you handled the poles). Treat # - # like a serpentine/threadle where you call your dog over the # jump as if it is a serpentine, using a drop shoulder or false turn or verbal, and then keeping him on your right side, drive him to the backside of #. Decelerate or give a verbal to get good collection to wrap him to the left (relative to the dog facing the jump from the take-off side) toward you. Option a: When he is committed to #, front cross and start moving toward #. Signal # and then do a front cross to bring the dog around # to the right. Leave when he is committed to # and run like heck for #, so that the tunnel is on your right as you are running. Then you will just have to pull to the tire as the dog s speed will shoot him out of the tunnel. Option b: If you can t make it to the second front cross, simply put him over # on your left hand and post turn to pull him around the right side of #. You will either have to rear cross at the tunnel entrance (risky and really indicates the other tunnel but if your dog has a lot of speed may work); try and beat him to the end of the tunnel to push him to the tire (likely to lose your knees); let him come out of the tunnel and rear cross on the flat (possible spin/loss of speed or off-course); use a verbal command to turn him to the tire (how good are your verbals?). These options can work but it really depends on you and your dog and what you ve trained. Even if you use the pull around #, try to leave as soon as possible. You may need to train this move more so you can trust it. Option : This option turns the dog to the RIGHT at #. A bit unusual perhaps, but depending on how the jumps get set and your dog s stride length, worth looking at. What are the ways you could handle it? Option?: Option?: 00 V Issue Page

15 SET Sequence (# - #) Volume Issue This is fairly straight forward. Make sure to handle so that your dog takes # with you in position near the right wing of #. Sequence (# - #) There are two main decision points. How to handle the threadle and subsequent 0 Option : Bring dog through gap with a false turn/drop shoulder on your left hand, send to # from your left side and do an immediate rear cross/run across your feet on the take-off side of # to turn the dog left to #. Option : Pick the dog up on your right hand as he lands from #, keep him on your right side and wrap him around your hip to #. Keep him on your right hand over # and while moving to #. Which way to turn at # Option : If you front cross on the landing side of # and pick your dog up on your left hand, you can wrap him around your hip to # and then continue to post turn to wrap him to the right again, and then front cross, pick him up with your right hand and to go to #. If you can t get across to the landing side front cross, you have to do a rear cross on the ground or a verbal to turn your dog to #. Option : The other option is to turn your dog to the left at #, either by rear crossing at #, or front crossing between # and #, but this can be difficult to execute smoothly. You must be very fleet of foot to make it look good. You get to # in the same fashion as Option. Sequence (# - #) This has two interesting moments: a point and shoot sequence and a very large 0. The point and shoot sequence happens after a hard turn at the A-frame. Keeping your dog on your right and just running hard for the # tunnel makes a lot of sense, being sure to not crowd the entrance of the tunnel and push your dog to the tire. If you were to front cross, you would do it between #0 and # (using lateral distance on the A-frame to get to the landing side of #0), as a front cross between # and #0 would set a line towards the offcourse #0 jump or the tire. You would be likely to get caught behind the #0 jump. Sequence (# - #) Question: There is a pattern in this sequence you have practiced already in this course. Can you find it? 00 V Issue Page

16 Answer: # - #. Volume Issue If you can trust your dog on the large 0 between # and #, it is fairly easy to get to #. The options are similar to # - #. Threadle with a rear cross/run across your feet at # or put your dog on your left side after # and wrap around your left hip for # and #. Sequence (# - #0) At #, you can try these options: Option : Send your dog to the tunnel off of your left hand and rear cross hard to get the turn to #. This may need practice. Then treat # through #0 like a serpentine. Option : Front cross on the landing side of # and take off running with the tunnel on your right side. Call your dog and pull him hard as he exits the # tunnel to go to #. Treat # through #0 like a serpentine. Option : Front cross on the landing side of #, take off running and front cross at the exit of #. You will need some serious wheels to make that front cross and lots of trust your dog will do # to # independently. Option : Similar to Option but you throw your dog into the 0 from # to # and take off running with the tunnel on your left side. Beat your dog to the exit to push/drive him to #. Watch the knees!!! You really need to beat him to the end of the tunnel cleanly for this or Option to even be considered. Variation on # through #0: You can do a front cross at the end of the # tunnel and pull from # to #0 if you are exceptionally quick relative to your dog. SETS and The challenges in these sets are similar, just presented in a different order. See how you do. If you are having trouble, look at where the dog is not performing independently enough and you have to babysit or where you are waiting too long to leave. Trust your dog, when he is committed to performing (which may be before he is actually doing the obstacle) leave and get to your next handling position. Have fun! Analyze when you are walking it, but go for it when you are running your dog! Anytime you see someone more successful than you are, they are doing something you re not. Malcolm X 00 V Issue Page

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18 The Agility Coach Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. In these sets, you have some discriminations approaching and exiting the dogwalk. Note: these suggestions can be adapted to any system. Use the appropriate hand and position for your system. SET Sequence (# - #) You can choose to turn left or right at #. Here are some options for handling #. Turn left at # If you do a front cross between # and #, you can handle # through # like a serpentine/threadle sequence from the landing side of # or you can also handle it from the take-off side of #. Some of this decision may be based upon your plan from # to #, which we will look at in Sequence. Pros: Quick turn at #, shorter distance. Cons: A difficult angle for jumping #, very tight for big dogs, possible loss of speed due to overall flow, depending on the handling choice at #. Option : Handle from the landing side of #. Front cross between # and #. When your dog is committed to #, move across to the left wing (relative to the dog approaching #). Call the dog over # with a false turn, dropped shoulder, or verbal and pick the dog up on your left side. Push him through to #. Option : Handle from the take-off side of #. Do a lateral lead-out between # and # so that you support # and #. While the dog is performing #, move through the gap between # and #. Signal # with either a false turn or dropped shoulder. When the dog is committed to #, move across and signal #. Be careful not to signal a push-through as you move across. Decelerate or give a verbal on the approach to # or you will drive your dog over the jump, instead of signalling a wrap. Pull through the gap with a false turn or dropped shoulder and go to # with the dog on your right. 00 V Issue Page

19 The Agility Coach Volume Issue Turn right at # Pros: Flow and speed after the turn at #. Cons: Possible slower turn at #, longer distance. You can either front cross between # and # or rear cross at # to get into position to turn right at #. In either case you need to get near the right wing of # as the dog is committing to # so that you can get through the gap yourself. Some dogs will want to turn away from you if you move into them, so you may need to give a verbal cue such as the dog s name to keep his attention. Ideally, if you can slip through the gap while your dog is performing the 0 between # and #, you will be on the take-off side of # which will cause more collection and will help your dog know the direction of the next obstacle. If you are on the landing side of #, the dog may jump longer than desirable. Option : Wrap your dog to the right at # and pick the dog up on your right side. This option makes the most sense. As the dog is turning right at #, pick the dog up on your right hand to go to # and #. If you can trust your dog to come through the gap between # and #, you can leave quite early to get up to # if that is an advantage to your next handling move. Option : Wrap your dog to the right at # keeping him on your left side with a post turn. This option means you approach # with your dog on your left. This requires a rear cross at # which may pull your dog off of #, unless you have a long strided, big jumping dog. You are also not in great position for the turn from # to # and will likely get a wide turn and have a difficult situation going to #. Sequence (# - #) You can go to the tunnel with the dog on your right or on your left side. If the dog is on your right, you can protect against the dogwalk better, but it is more difficult to get into a good position to go to the tunnel as it is easy to get caught on the # jump and end up behind your dog. 00 V Issue Page

20 The Agility Coach Volume Issue Turning your dog right at # If you turn your dog right (relative to the dog s approach) at #, handling with your dog on your right has a good flow from # to the tunnel. Option : Using Option from SET - Turn left at #. This puts you in good position to simply bring the dog around to the right at #, front cross and continue to #. Leave early once you are sure your dog is committed to # and make sure you are past # before your dog commits to # and drive to the tunnel. Option : Using Option from SET - Turn left at # and add a rear cross/run across your feet at #. Your dog needs to be a skilled at rear crosses for this to be effective. Your dog goes to # on your right side and when he is committed you do a rear cross to turn him right. Hang back enough that you don t get caught on # and drive to the tunnel when you know your dog is wrapping the right standard of #. Turning your dog left at # If you turn your dog left at # (left relative to the dog s perspective), you have two options. Option : Front cross between # and #. As your dog commits to # and #, get to position between # and # and do a front cross. Make sure you can clear the right standard of #. Pick your dog up on your left hand and drive straight across until you are ready to turn your dog to the tunnel with either a verbal left cue, a rear cross on the flat, or a cue to turn away. Option : Simply pull your dog around to the left of #. This seems straight forward enough. However, it is easy to get caught behind # as well as can create a push over # to get your dog back online for the tunnel and causes an ugly zig zag line. Hang back far enough that you can drive a straight line to the tunnel yourself once you have committed your dog to #. You may need a false turn, drop shoulder or verbal to make sure he commits to # and doesn t target the tunnel. 00 V Issue Page

21 The Agility Coach Volume Issue Sequence (# to #) The # tunnel through to # is a curved line that can be layered if necessary. Crossing at the exit of the tunnel If you can get across the exit of the tunnel with a front or blind cross it is easy to get your dog into the line by driving him to # and as he commits to #0 you leave to get to position near the # and # jumps. Option : Front cross between # and #. You have to take off running once your dog commits to #0 so you can get to position. If you get too close to #, you could drive your dog past #. You only need to break the plane of #. Option : Layer # so that you can get to the left wing (relative to the dog s perspective, where the # marker is) of #. Assuming your dog has good lateral distance work, send your dog to #0.Run hard to your position at # so that he drives out over # and carries to #. Not crossing at the exit of the tunnel In this case, drive to # and then rear cross at #0. You will be further behind but you may still be able to do Option. Another alternative is to run with your dog, pull him from # to # and then rear cross at # to go to #. Sequence (# to #) In this sequence you either pull from # to # and then rear cross at # or front cross between # and #. Sequence (# - #) Here you have to decide whether you are going to send to the dogwalk and layer the #/# jump so that you don t get caught behind the tunnel, or if you are going to run along the dogwalk and pull your dog to the correct end of the # tunnel and work your way around the # tunnel. Ideally, you once again slide across the tunnel exit and simply drive down 00 V Issue Page

22 The Agility Coach Volume Issue the line to finish. If you can t get across the exit, you either need to rear cross just after your dog exits and then drive down the line, or pick him up on your right side and send him down the line with a verbal cue. SET Sequence (# - #) You can choose to turn left or right at jump #. Option : Front cross between # and # sets dog on the lead to turn right. From here you either pull the dog, keeping him on your left, or your front cross to put him on your right to go to #. Option : Pull from # to # sets dog on left lead to turn him left at #, then front cross to pick dog up on your left or post turn to keep dog on your right to go to #. You can also choose to turn left or right at jump #. Option : Based on your option choice above, if you have your dog on your left side approaching #, your dog will turn right at #. You can either pull him to the right (relative to the dog s right) at # and then rear cross at # or front cross after # to put your dog on your right side to go to #. Sequence (# - #0) This sequence has three main points. You can either pull or front cross between # and #. If executed well, there is not much difference between these. You need to decide what command you will use to get your dog to the correct end of #. It may be a false turn, verbal, pull, or front cross. You need to use your discrimination cue to signal the #0 dogwalk. That again may be a false turn, a verbal command, or a pull. Don t get too close to the dogwalk or you will push your dog into the tunnel by accident. Sequence (# - #) The main piece of this sequence lies between # and #. 00 V Issue Page

23 The Agility Coach Volume Issue Whether you rear cross at # or you do a front cross between # and #, send your dog to # and treat # through # like a serpentine performed from the landing side of #. If you do, you will be in the correct position at # to push your dog through to #. Because you must push through to #, it makes the most sense to rear cross at # on the take-off side. Then signal #, do a front cross to turn your dog to the right (relative to the dog s perspective), pick your dog up on your right side and run down the line to the finish. SETS and The challenges in Sets and are quite challenging, particularly the first seven obstacles. See how you do based on the work we ve done so far. Work the course out backward. In other words figure out where you want to be at # in Set for example, and then figure out what you have to do leading up to # to get to the position you want. Try handling the sequence from both sides to see what works better. Be aware of how the angle of a jump affects your dog. If the sequences aren t set up exactly as shown, that will change the effect of the challenges, but it just means you ve come up with new interesting challenges! I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso 00 V Issue Page

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25 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. These sequences have a lot of choices as to which way to turn. Look for how the approach and exit affect your dog, as well as what you are able to get to as a handler. Note: these suggestions can be adapted to any system. Use the appropriate hand and position for your system. SET Sequence (# - #) The main challenges here are jumps on sharp angles and getting a head start up to #. You can handle # to # from either side. If you handle with your dog on your right, be careful not to push him around #. If you handle with your dog on your left, be sure not to pull him toward you over # and then push him toward the tunnel just as he is over the bar. Create a straight line from # to # by driving along the line. Once your dog is in the tunnel, you have two main options. Option : Handle from the left side of the line of jumps from # to #. You can pull him to the # jump, run up the left side and then rear cross to go to the weave poles. Option : Handle from the right side of the line of jumps. Send to the tunnel. If your dog has speed or a long stride he will carry to the correct side of #. Front cross and run up the right side of the jumps and pull to the weave poles. A variation on this if you are faster than your dog or have good lateral distance is to get far ahead and do a second front cross to put your dog into the weave poles. Ideally your position is on the far side of the weave poles. Don t crowd the entrance. Sequence (# - #0) Just a note on this weave pole entrance. If you ve got fantastic weave pole performance, including entries, you might be able to slide behind your dog and do a rear cross at the entrance if you rear cross or pull your dog to the poles. If not, you will have to handle the end of the poles to go to #. This 00 V Issue Page

26 Volume Issue isn t an issue if you get to a front cross at the weave pole entrance. If you are handling from the weave pole exit, your options are to do a front/blind cross so that you can pick your dog up on your right side or to pick your dog up on your left side and drive hard to # and # then rear cross. Handling with your dog on your right side makes the most sense, but some handling systems wouldn t use a front/blind cross in this situation.where you place the rear cross will depend on your dog (and how the course is set). Ideally you won t go as far as the landing side of # because it is now a rear cross on the flat and you are out of position for the next sequence. If you rear cross on the take-off side of #, your dog may not take # unless he is a fast, big strided dog. You have to time your cross so that he is committed to # before he feels you cross. From a communication perspective, the best place to put the cross is on the take-off side of #, but you may not be able to get there comfortably due to the position of #. Sequence (#0 - #) Once you have your dog committed to #0, the simplest way to go to # is with your dog on your right and then do a rear cross on the take-off side of # to signal the turn to #. Theoretically you could do a front cross either between #0 and # or # and #. A cross between #0 and # will have a tendency to draw your dog to the tunnel exit and a cross between # and # may shoot your dog forward over # as well as being a difficult cross to get to, although it may work well for some teams depending on their style. Sequence (# to #0) This sequence can be done in either a front cross style or a rear cross style and from the take-off or landing side of #. Two of the main concerns are getting a good turn and line from # to #/# and getting a good turn from # to #. Option : Handle from the take-off side of #. Pick your dog up on your right side and treat # and # like a 0. Rear cross on the flat to turn your dog to #. (You can also treat # to # like a serpentine and perform a run across your feet on the take-off side of #. Send to # and then rear cross immediately.) Run the line to # and decelerate early and/or use a verbal. Pull your dog hard to #. 00 V Issue Page

27 Volume Issue Then either pull your dog to # and rear cross on the take-off side of # or handle on the landing side of # and treat # through #0 as a serpentine, calling your dog to you with a dropped arm or false turn at #. Option : Handle from the landing side of #. Treat # through # as a serpentine and pull around the 0 from # to #. Don t worry if your dog jumps a bit long after # as it will help your dog s angle to #. Also, don t worry about setting a tight turn from # to # because you may cause your dog s approach to the double to be on too much of a slice. If your dog gets over the double cleanly, he may take a hard look at the off-course unnumbered jump. However, if he doesn t take the off-course jump, his line may be improved for # and #! Treat # to #0 as a serpentine. SET Sequence (# - #) The main decision in this sequence is whether to run the line from # to # with your dog on your right or on your left. In either case jumps # through # are a pinwheel to a 0, handled with the dog on your left. Option : Handle with dog on right going to weaves. Either run with your dog to the tunnel entrance far enough that you can step past the # wing that is nearest the tunnel, or send your dog to the tunnel so you slide past the wing of # where the numbered marker is. Aim for a position outside the left wing of # so that you don t push any pressure on your dog to accidently send him over #. Signal # but don t throw your arm out or your dog may take #. When you know your dog is focused on #, head up the line if you need to help with the weave pole entry. Option : Handle with dog on left going to weaves. You can either slide past the right side of # and call your dog to you out of the tunnel, similar to a lead out position. Make sure to get a good turn at #. Drive up the line and send to the poles. You can use a verbal obstacle or directional command such as weave or left or switch. Rear cross once your dog is in good position to enter the poles. 00 V Issue Page

28 Volume Issue Sequence (# - #) The main challenge in this sequence is the #0 to # path. Option : Your dog on your right after #0. Pull your dog at #0 and drive to # with him on your right and rear cross. Be careful not to lose your dog to the poles. Leave early when you know your dog is committing to #0 so you can have good position closer to #. Rear cross at # and then again at #. Option : Your dog on your left after #0. Do a front cross between #0 and # (you may need to layer #) and take your dog to # on your left side. Stay very near the poles so that your dog stays with you and doesn t push out to #. Also, decelerate hard before # so he collects and reads a hard turn. Pull him hard to # and rear cross. If you are faster than your dog or have good lateral distance skills, you may be able to add an additional front cross between # and # so that your dog goes to # on your right hand. Sequence (# - #0) In the final sequence, # to # are a serpentine. It makes the most sense to turn your dog to the left at # as that lines up with the upcoming sequence. When your dog is committed to # (still on the take-off side if possible), take off down the line so that you are in a position to give information about the tight turn at the end. You might use a verbal, deceleration or a combination of cues. SETS and Try Sets and, using the same thought processes as above. Notes for Set : At #0, which way works better to turn for your dog? Also, make sure to try turning both ways at #. The sequence from # to #0 can be treated like a serpentine. Can you figure out how? It may not be the best choice for you, but make sure you understand how it would work. Notes for Set : Can you figure out how to treat # to # as a serpentine? You can turn either way at #, but if you can get to the landing side of # 00 V Issue Page

29 Volume Issue once your dog goes in the tunnel, you can treat # to # like a serpentine as well. It makes # to # much easier and you are in position to do a pull-through, which is a much shorter path, but for some dogs the outside might be faster because of the approach from # and maintaining speed. Treat # to # as a pull-through and if your dog has solid poles, you can get to # and # much easier. Enjoy the puzzle! Courage doesn t always roar. Sometimes courage is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying, I will try again tomorrow. - Mary Anne Radmacher 00 V Issue Page

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31 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. These sequences have a lot of choices as to which way to turn. Look for how the approach and exit affect your dog, as well as what you are able to get to as a handler. Note: these suggestions can be adapted to any system. Use the appropriate hand and position for your system. SET Sequence (# - #) The main decision in this first line is which way to turn your dog at #. A long jumping dog may be better off going left if he lands long from #. A tight dog may be better going right. Experiment with your dog. After the turn, you likely want to run with your dog and A-frame on your right to simplify the turn to the dogwalk and also to allow you to be up to full speed to get to position at #. Otherwise you must do a rear cross, most likely on the take-off side of #, depending on the size of dog. Sequence (# - #0) This sequence is interesting because you have the option to turn two different directions at both jumps. It makes the most sense to turn left at # because it is the shortest path and also because of the angle of approach to #. However, some dogs may be better off turning RIGHT at # instead of doing a push-through/pull-through (it s starting to sound like a Dr. Seuss story!). Whether you do a push-through or a pull-through between # and # really depends on whether or not you can get just to the landing side of # on the left wing, which means independent contact performance. Otherwise, you must do a pull-through. Sequence (#0 - #) This discrimination is either a false turn, verbal command or dropped shoulder if the dog stays on your left. If you are quick enough, you may be able to front cross between # and #. 00 V Issue Page

32 Sequence (# to #0) Volume Issue In this sequence, your two main decisions are whether to turn left or right at # and whether to turn left or right at #. Turning left at # may seem easier, but your dog may get a better line through to # by turning right. If you go left at #, your dog may jump quite long through the tire, which will set a bad line for # and #. Turning left at # is likely faster, unless your dog shoots off the end of the teeter. SET Sequence (# - #) The main decision in this sequence is which way to turn at #. If you get a tight turn from # to #, it will be easy for your dog to turn left at #, but it may create a zig zag line to the poles. You would need to focus on getting a good turn at # as your dog s line will be out toward the dogwalk. If you turn your dog right at #, the line is smoother to #, but some dogs will gain too much speed and focus on the dogwalk. Try it both ways, timing it from # to the weave pole entry. Sequence (# - #) The tunnel/a-frame discriminations are the main challenges. You will either be using a pull/false turn/verbal or you will front cross to put the dog into the appropriate ends of the tunnel. Unless your dog is a long jumping dog, you will probably front cross between # and # to go to #0 with your dog on your left so you can pull your dog to the tire. A rear cross at # may give your dog a bad approach to the tire and poor overall line through the sequence. You can turn either direction at #, but as the course is set in the map, turning your dog to the right (relative to the dog s perspective) makes sense based on the approach angle and the shorter distance to the A-frame. However, it may be easier for some to turn the dog left at # with a front cross. 00 V Issue Page

33 Sequence (# - #) Volume Issue This last sequence is essentially a big speed circle. Be careful at the long jump that your dog pushes out enough to get to the teeter. SETS Sequence (# - #) This sequence is a bit tricky. Lead-out to #. Direct your dog to # and #, then push-through to #. At this point, you can either pull to # and then rear cross at #, but that leaves several off-course options open to the dog. The other option is to do a quick front cross between # and # after the push-through, and then you will be in more of a position to pull or false turn to the correct tunnel entrance. Sequence (# - #) In this sequence, #0 to # is a serpentine if you handle from the landing side of #. False turn, drop your shoulder or call your dog over # and then do a rear cross (run across your feet) to turn your dog to the poles and avoid the off-course jump. If you handle from the take-off side of #, do a front cross between #0 and # and then pull hard to the poles to avoid the off-course jump. Sequence (# - #0c) In this sequence, you need to turn your dog right at the end of the A-frame. You can either front cross between # and # and pull your dog to the tunnel. If you can t get to the front cross, you must pull to the A-frame with your dog on your right and then run hard to the end of the frame to give a physical signal or a verbal directional. Pick your dog up on your left side out of the tunnel to go around the loop. The 0a-0b-0c sequence is to be treated like one obstacle. It is worth one fault but if you make a mistake such as a refusal, you must repeat all three obstacles! 00 V Issue Page

34 Volume Issue Set The main challenges in this set are from # to #, # to #, and # through #0c. Otherwise, it s a full out run! Enjoy the puzzle! Wherever we look upon this earth, the opportunities take shape within the problems. _ Nelson A. Rockefeller 00 V Issue Page

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37 Volume Issue Remember if you have trouble with any sequence, break it down into a separate drill. All references to left and right are relative to the dog s perspective. In other words as if you were looking at the obstacle from the approach/ take-off side. Note: these suggestions can be adapted to any system. Use the appropriate hand and position for your system. SET Sequence (# - #) This opening sequence is fairly straight forward. Lead out to do a front cross between the # tunnel and #. You may decide to layer the # jump on one side or the other so that you won t push your dog onto the wrong obstacle. Be careful not to get caught on # going to #. Sequence (# - #) After the poles you have to thread a needle between two jumps. A front cross at the end of the poles eliminates the # jump and the dog s momentum tends to keep him from going to the off-course #. From #, you can throw your dog out to #, layer # and do a front cross on the landing side to protect the wrong tunnel entrance. The other option is to drive in to the pinwheel, and then hold your dog on your left side, possibly using a verbal to help, and drive him to the correct end of the tunnel. If you go into the pocket of the pinwheel, it is very difficult to get to a front cross after #0. Sequence (# - #) At the end of the # tunnel, a front cross keeps the line tight to #. You can run into the pinwheel with your dog and if you are able, do a front cross between # and #, then pull to # and the # tunnel. If you can t get to the front cross between # and #, you can cheat by sending your dog to # and cutting across to the right wing of # to do your front cross. The distance between # and # is quite large to try a rear cross at #. 0 V Issue Page

38 SET Sequence (# - #) Volume Issue Lead out so that you can send your dog to # from # from your right side. As your dog commits to #, move across and do a front cross between # and # so you can pick your dog up on your left side on the landing side of #. Do a push through to the backside of # and then do a post turn to wrap your dog to the right around you and to #. If you can t make it to the front cross on the landing side of #, your other option is to pick your dog up on your right as he lands from #, head toward # and then at the last moment do a rear cross and run the dog across your feet to #. You could theoretically turn your dog left at # as well but the path is exceptionally long and the approach angle to # is poor. Sequence (# - #) At the exit of the #0 tunnel, you can either pick your dog up on your left, drive to # and rear cross or do a blind/front cross at the end of #0 and pull your dog around to the left at #. Turning right at # will not usually be the fastest path in this case. The line from # to # is tricky so make sure to signal a collection at # to get a good turn to # after the speed of the tunnel. Sequence (# - #) This last sequence is tricky and your handling will be very dependent on the type of dog you are running. If you have a big jumping dog, he may have enough speed to throw him out so that he naturally lands past the plane of #. If this is the case, you may be able to handle the sequence from the take-off side of #. As your dog commits to #, leave for # (you can run on either side of #), let him land long and then do a front cross to signal #. Pull through to # and then pull to #. If your dog is not a big jumper and could go off-course the wrong way at 0 V Issue Page