The How-to Manual for Basset Hound Foster Families. Basset Buddies Rescue of Texas

Transcription

1 The How-to Manual for Basset Hound Foster Families Basset Buddies Rescue of Texas Last modified: June

2 Thank you for your willingness to volunteer as a foster home for rescued basset hounds!! You are providing an essential service to the rescue and directly contributing to our ability to save the lives of basset hounds on death row of area shelters. In short, we could not rescue without you!! The purpose of this manual is to provide a concise source of information for the foster families of rescued basset hounds. Should you notice any errors or omissions, please let us know! Important Phone Numbers/Addresses: *Rescue Hotline: *Foster Home Coordinator: *Back-up Contact: *Jersey Village Animal Hospital Village Green Drive Houston, TX

3 Table of Contents 1. General Information pgs 4-7 Before the Foster Arrives When the Foster Arrives What to Expect in the First Few Days What Should I Do to Ease the Transition? What are My Responsibilities? 2. Housing Your Foster Hound pgs 8-10 Where Should Your Foster Hound Sleep? Where Should Your Foster Hound Spend His/Her Alone Time? Housetraining Exercise Escape Potential 3. Feeding the Beast pgs All Basset Hounds Love to Eat Foods You Should NEVER Feed Your Foster Hound (or Any Other Dog) 4. Medical Care and Treatment pgs General Information Pets and Poisons Pet Safety Kit The Dreaded Disease: Bloat Houston-Area Emergency Vet Clinics 5. Heartworm Disease and Treatment pgs Your Rescue Hound s Heartworm Status For Heartworm Positive Dogs Heartworm Treatment Plan My Foster has Just Undergone Heartworm Treatment Now What? What is Heartworm Disease? 6. Adoption Time! pgs Adoption Application Approval Giving Up Your Foster Hound 3

4 General Information Before the Foster Arrives 1. Make sure your own pets are up-to-date on their vaccinations. This should include rabies, DHPP, and bordatella (kennel cough). Each rescued basset hound will see the vet prior to going to a foster home, but illnesses could emerge after a few days. A good protective strategy is to keep the foster hound separate from your own pets for the first few days, although this isn't always realistic since the dog will be living in your home as a member of the family. 2. Puppy-proof the house. If your foster hound is coming from a shelter, odds are that no one knows his/her history in regards to indoor living. Better to be safe than sorry! 3. Set up a crate. This will provide a safe, den-like area for the hound as well as a reliable means of confining the dog when you are not home. If you chose not to use a crate, you should have a small, dog-safe room (like a bathroom) for when you cannot watch the dog. 4. Be sure to have any necessary supplies on hand. Until our rescue wins the lottery, foster homes will be responsible for providing the hound s food, water, bowls, treats, toys, and grooming supplies. Although we can t afford to purchase these items for each family, we can assist you in making selections if you are unsure of what to buy. 5. If you have a cat(s), be sure to set up a safe, dog-free zone. Baby gates are good because your cat can jump over them. Be sure the cat's food and litter box are in a dog-free zone, or you might find that your beloved kitty is not eating or has found a new place to do its business because it's trying to avoid the scary new dog. Never leave them alone together. When the Foster Arrives 1. Introduce the foster dog to your own dog(s) in a neutral location. If neutral isn t possible, then go for an area with minimal distractions and the potential for the dogs to be safely off-leash. A good safety measure is to leave the leashes hooked to the unrestrained dogs collars in case they need to be separated quickly. 2. Find out about any ongoing medical issues or upcoming vet appointments. The cost of the foster hound s medical care is covered through Basset Buddies Rescue, but vetting must be done through the group s approved veterinarians. See Medical Care and Treatment for more information. At the time the 4

5 foster hound is dropped off, the most important thing is to establish an understanding of the hound s overall health status, discuss any immediate/ongoing health issues, and develop a basic plan for any needed follow-up care. 3. Bathe and give the dog a topical flea preventative agent. An exception is if the dog has had recent surgery (spay/neuter), then you must wait at least 7 days prior to bathing. What to Expect in the First Few Days 1. As the new foster settling into the existing pack, you can expect a little posturing and growling for the first few days. This is normal behavior as the dogs will need to establish a new pack order. There may be a few scuffles consisting of a lot of noise and little-to-no bloodshed. Should there be actual injurious contact between the dogs, remember you should never get in the middle to break up the fight. Instead, try keeping a water spray bottle or broom on hand to use to separate the dogs. Dogs in harnesses or wearing leashes can be pulled away while maintaining a safe distance. More likely than not, the dogs will be playing together within a few days. Any ongoing conflict generally involves meal and treat times. Make note of any food aggression and keep the dogs separated during meals if necessary. It is NEVER a good idea to keep your foster dog with your own pets when you are not there to supervise. When left unattended, the foster should always be crated or in a dog-safe room apart from the regular pack. 2. The foster hound will most likely be stressed-out and anxious. Depending on his/her age and activity level, such stress can manifest itself in a variety of ways, including: panting, pacing, difficulty settling, loss of appetite, housebreaking accidents, and wanting to be near you at all times. Rest assured that any of these behaviors should quickly diminish as you establish basic trust and consistency with your foster hound. It is always helpful to keep in mind that these dogs have had a very difficult past and this baggage will not disappear overnight. What should I do to ease the transition? 1. Establish a routine. For the first couple weeks, be sure to take the dog out to potty frequently and at regular intervals, feed at the same time each day, and schedule exercise around the same time each day. Dogs love routines and find them very 5

6 reassuring. You will be amazed how quickly your new foster dog picks up the routine. 2. Make some time each day for a little T.L.C. Whether your foster came from a loving home or an abusive situation, he/she will be confused and anxious. Spend time cuddling, fetching, playing, and just hanging out watching TV together. Be patient; it might take him/her a few days or weeks to settle in and relax. What are my responsibilities? 1. Provide love. By far the most important thing you need to provide is love! It sounds corny but it really is true. You ll find that, for the most part, the rest of it generally works itself out. 2. Basic training. Housetraining is an essential skill for the dog to master. Crate training is useful in accomplishing this as well as in establishing boundaries for young or destructive dogs (discussed further in Housing Your Foster Hound ). Basic manners such as appropriate greeting behavior, walking calmly on a leash, and coming when called are also important skills. 3. Attend rescue events. Please do your best to attend rescue activities, especially adoption events. This is the best way for your hound to meet potential furever families. If you cannot attend, we will do our best to make transportation arrangements so that your foster may still attend. However, this requires at least 2-3 days advanced notice and is often not possible as most attendees are already wrangling bassets of their own. 4. Help advertise your hound. After you have gotten to know your foster hound (within 1-2 weeks), please submit a description of him/her for the website. We have simplified this process by providing you a template to use as a guide. A copy of the template is included in this packet and is also available online under the Foster section. Please submit your information via along with some flattering photos of your foster hound. The biography and photos you provide will be what attracts the interest of potential adopters so be sure to be honest but also help your foster hound shine! 5. If you must travel away from home, please give as much advanced notice as possible to make boarding arrangements for your foster. 6. Should you wish for your foster to be removed from your home, please be aware that it may take 1-2 business days to arrange alternate housing. This is especially true during holidays/weekends when boarding is even more difficult to reserve on short notice. 6

7 7. Treat the dog as if were your own. Please understand that we will do everything we can to facilitate your need, however, please also realize that agreement to foster assumes that you will be responsible for transport of your foster and any emergency care necessary, with the exception of medical financial responsibility. In the event of an emergency, please take your dog to an emergency hospital and then notify us. Waiting for us to pick up your foster in an emergency situation could literally mean life or death. 7

8 Housing Your Foster Hound Where should your foster hound sleep? 1. We highly recommend that you have your foster dog sleep in your bedroom (on a dog bed or on your bed). There are several advantages to this arrangement first, if you close your door, or place a baby gate across the door way, you know where your dog is all night and will know if your foster becomes sick/scared/etc. In addition, dogs are pack animals; they are not genetically wired to spend most of their day alone. Thankfully, most can adapt to it fairly well. Keep in mind, though, that many behavior problems start by asking a dog to spend too much time by him or herself. If you are gone for some or most of the day, sharing your room with your dog allows him or her to get the pack time while you are snoozing. 2. A new foster may require a crate for the first few nights. Again, put the crate in your room and once the dog has slept through a couple of nights, replace the crate with a dog bed. Don t put the dog bed in the crate he/she will likely just chew it. A small blanket might be nice, though, to make the crate a little comfy (and a quiet toy or two). There is no reason to have an adult dog sleep in a crate indefinitely and a dog bed with the capacity to stretch out is preferable. Where should your foster hound spend his/her alone time? 1. For an adult dog (over 3 years old), create a dog-proofed area in part of the house where you spend time. Kitchens are often a good choice just make sure any food is out of reach. Garages and unfinished basements are NOT good choices climate control can be a problem, chemicals of any sort are a real hazard, and the dog knows that he/she isn t in the house. A dog bed, some water, toys, and a rubber kong (available at Petsmart) stuffed with peanut butter are the basics. Baby gates are very inexpensive means of creating a dogproofed space and may provide you a nice alternative to a crate for an older dog. Try out the space before you leave for 8-10 hours! Go run a short errand over a weekend. Also, if at all possible, have someone visit the dog mid-day if you are gone for the whole day for the first week or so. 2. For a young dog, you may want to start with a crate. Place the crate in a location where you or the family spends time somewhere familiar and comfortable to the dog. The crate can be helpful in that it creates a den or safety-zone where the dog may go to even when you are at home at times when he/she 8

9 needs a break from the stimulation of the surroundings. The crate should not be used as a means of punishment and should be kept clean so it remains a pleasant place to which the hound may retreat. Crating a young dog all day has its drawbacks there s a ton of pent-up energy when you get home. A dog should never be crated for more than 8 consecutive hours. Housetraining 1. Even a previously housetrained dog will have a few accidents with the stress of being rehomed. For an unhousetrained dog, this may be one more confusing change in a series of stressful events. Be patient and consistent in your training. Do not leave the dog unattended for at least the first 2 weeks because unobserved behaviors cannot be corrected. It is pointless to try and punish a dog for unwitnessed accidents. This will only teach the dog to be fearful of you and what appears to be unpredictable behavior on your part. 2. If/when you see an accident starting, say No in a loud/clear voice to stop the dog and immediately take him/her outside and praise him/her for completing the task outside. Your praise coupled with a treat are far more likely to reinforce this good behavior than an angry tone, swat with a newspaper, or the old notion of rubbing the dog s nose in it. The latter measures serve only to frighten the dog and compromise any trust in your relationship. 3. Do not assume that your foster hound will understand that a trip outside is intended to be a potty break. For the first couple of weeks, be sure to keep doggy treats in your pocket and go outside with him/her every time. Don t just stand on the patio but rather follow him/her around the yard at a bit of a distance. As soon as you observe the dog toileting in the yard, praise him/her and give a treat from your pocket. 4. Crate training is helpful in housetraining. Dogs do not like to soil their area if in a confined space. Thus, crate training helps them to practice volitional control of bladder/bowel as well as reinforces the concept of not going inside. Exercise 1. Yeah, that s right I said exercise! Despite their couchpotato reputation, almost all basset hounds will benefit from regular exercise. This will help him/her maintain a healthy weight as well as burn off any excess energy that may otherwise be devoted to chewing up your shoe. 9

10 2. Basset hounds often have physical limitations that are important to recognize to prevent future disabling injuries. Bassets are at risk for developing serious problems with their leg joints as well as back injuries/nerve compression that may lead to paralysis. To prevent these problems, the physical activity of a basset should be kept low-impact (no jumping on and off of furniture, no running up and down the stairs). In addition, the short legs and heavy torso of the basset hound make swimming very difficult. If your basset hound does swim, he/she should NEVER be left unattended near the water as fatigue may set in and drowning may occur very rapidly. 3. If you will be leash-walking your foster for exercise, please purchase a harness. Because most basset hounds have large necks and oblong heads, they can quite often slip right out of a standard collar. For this reason, any basset that will be walked on a regular basis outside of a fenced in area should be restrained with a harness rather than a collar. Escape Potential 1. No matter how much your foster hound loves you, he/she will be off in a heartbeat if given the chance. Basset hounds instinctively follow their noses and will very often take off while tracking a scent only to realize miles down the road that they have no idea where they are or how to get home. Please be mindful of this each and every time you open the front door or walk the dog. In addition, please periodically check your yard for holes near the fence and make sure the gates are always closed. The hound should NEVER be allowed to run free/off-leash while in an unsecured area. 2. Do not keep your foster basset outside during the day. Most cases of basset escape occur as a result of being left unattended outside and breaking out of the fence, digging a hole, or being let out by a careless meter-reader/maintenance man. Foster bassets are to be kept indoors both at night and during the day. 3. Your foster hound should be provided a collar with rabies vaccination tag and rescue ID tag at the time he/she is brought to your home. If you do not receive the collar and tags, please notify the foster home coordinator and request they be provided ASAP. 10

11 Feeding the Beast All basset hounds love to eat. 1. A stressed-out new foster might take a few days to remember this, but he/she will come around. This love for food can often lead to a weight problem if the basset hound s diet is not given the proper attention. 2. The foster hound should be fed twice daily breakfast and dinner. Most bassets eat between 2-3 cups of food per day (underweight hounds may require more) divided into 2 meals (1-1.5 cups per meal). Because they are broad-chested dogs, basset hounds are at risk for a very serious condition called bloat if they eat too much at one time or too quickly. This condition is discussed further in the Medical Care and Treatment section. 3. Put the food bowl down for 10 minutes during meal time and otherwise leave it stored away. Do not leave food sitting out for the dog all day (otherwise known as freefeeding ). This will almost inevitably lead to weight problems for a basset hound and if you have other dogs, you can never be sure who is actually doing the eating. Often the basset may be stealing food from other dogs bowls in addition to its own. 4. If you have more than one dog, please make sure that each dog has some personal space during meals. Do not allow the dogs to hassle one another while eating. 5. Feed the dog a high-quality food. As a general rule, the dog food that you buy in a grocery store is junk food for canines (with the possible exception of IAMS). If budgetary concerns are an issue, Pedigree is an OK food. Other recommended foods include Pro-Plan and Nutro Natural Choice. Please ask your foster home coordinator for specific recommendations. Foods you should NEVER feed your foster hound (or any other dog) Chocolate: Chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. When affected by an overdose of chocolate, a dog can become excited and hyperactive. Due to the diuretic effect, it may pass large volumes of urine and it will be unusually thirsty. Vomiting and diarrhea are also common. The effect of theobromine on the heart is the most dangerous effect. Theobromine will either increase the dog s heart rate or may cause the heart to beat 11

12 irregularly. Death is quite possible, especially with exercise. After their pet has eaten a large quantity of chocolate, many pet owners assume their pet is unaffected. However, the signs of sickness may not be seen for several hours, with death following within twenty-four hours. Cocoa powder and cooking chocolate are the most toxic forms. A 10-kilogram dog can be seriously affected if it eats a quarter of a 250gm packet of cocoa powder or half of a 250gm block of cooking chocolate. These forms of chocolate contain ten times more theobromine than milk chocolate. Thus, a chocolate mud cake could be a real health risk for a small dog. Even licking a substantial part of the chocolate icing from a cake can make a dog unwell. Semi-sweet chocolate and dark chocolate are the next most dangerous forms, with milk chocolate being the least dangerous. A dog needs to eat more than a 250gm block of milk chocolate to be affected. Obviously, the smaller the dog, the less it needs to eat. Onions/garlic: Onions and garlic contain the toxic ingredient thiosulphate. Pets affected by onion toxicity will develop hemolytic anemia, where the pet s red blood cells burst while circulating in its body. At first, pets affected by onion poisoning show gastroenteritis with vomiting and diarrhea. They will show no interest in food and will be dull and weak. The red pigment from the burst blood cells appears in an affected animal s urine and it becomes breathless. The breathlessness occurs because the red blood cells that carry oxygen through the body are reduced in number. The poisoning occurs a few days after the pet has eaten the onion. All forms of onion can be a problem including dehydrated onions, raw onions, cooked onions and table scraps containing cooked onions and/or garlic. Left over pizza, Chinese dishes and commercial baby food containing onion, sometimes fed as a supplement to young pets, can cause illness. Onion poisoning can occur with a single ingestion of large quantities or with repeated meals containing small amounts of onion. A single meal of 600 to 800 grams of raw onion can be dangerous whereas a ten-kilogram dog, fed 150 grams of onion 12

13 for several days, is also likely to develop anemia. The condition improves once the dog is prevented from eating any further onion. Macadamia nuts: The toxic compound is unknown but the affect of macadamia nuts is to cause locomotory difficulties. Dogs develop a tremor of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting. Some affected dogs have swollen limbs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated. Dogs have been affected by eating as few as six macadamia kernels (nuts without the shell) while others had eaten approximately forty kernels. Some dogs had also been given macadamia butter. Pear pips, the kernels of plums, peaches and apricots, apple core pips: All contain cyanogenic glycosides which may result in cyanide poisoning. Raisins and grapes Potato peelings and green-looking potatoes Rhubarb leaves Mouldy/spoiled foods Alcohol Yeast dough Coffee grounds, beans, and tea Hops (used in home brewing) Tomato leaves and stems (green parts) Broccoli (in large amounts) Cigarettes, tobacco, cigars 13

14 Medical Care and Treatment General Information 1. Prior to the arrival of your foster hound, please make sure that your own pets are up-to-date on their vaccinations. This should include rabies, DHPP, and bordatella (kennel cough) as well as being current on heartworm and flea preventatives. Each rescued basset hound will see the vet prior to going to a foster home, but illnesses could emerge after a few days. A good protective strategy is to keep the foster hound separate from your own pets for the first few days, although this isn't always realistic since the dog will be living in your home as a member of the family. 2. Your foster will have been evaluated by a veterinarian prior to arriving at your home. At this initial visit, the foster hound will receive all necessary vaccinations, be tested for heartworm and intestinal parasites, and be started on medication for any infectious or inflammatory diseases. If the hound is not yet spayed or neutered, plans for when this procedure should be performed will also be discussed. 3. Despite all precautions, an initially healthy-appearing foster hound may begin to exhibit signs/symptoms of acute illness after a few days in the foster home. The most likely offender in these situations is kennel cough. Signs/symptoms include: runny eyes/nose (with clear discharge), sneezing, and/or a cough (+/- clear/white sputum production). An illness comparable to most viral upper respiratory infections in humans, the treatment is similar: maintaining hydration and managing symptoms as needed. No medication will shorten the duration of the illness duration but the hound can be given over-the-counter medications for comfort/symptom management (ask foster home coordinator for recommendations). Antibiotics generally are not indicated. It is important to remember, however, that kennel cough can facilitate secondary bacterial infections that will require antibiotic treatment. The development of secondary bacterial infections may be evidenced by worsening generalized symptoms (listlessness, poor appetite), or the development of purulent-appearing (yellow/green) discharge from the dog s eyes/nose. If your dog is showing any signs of illness, please notify the foster home coordinator so that we will be aware and a plan of action may be developed. 14

15 4. If you feel that your foster hound needs to go to the vet for any reason, you MUST first get approval from the foster home coordinator. We are a non-profit organization and must work hard to keep our expenses in check; therefore, we have veterinarians who have agreed in advance to help us in our rescue mission by discounting their services. We use these providers almost exclusively. If you choose to take your foster to another vet, we can ONLY reimburse up to the amount our vet would have charged and only for those procedures our vet would have recommended. Even if you do utilize a veterinarian working with our rescue group, please remember we still MUST approve in advance any and all procedures performed. The only exception is in cases of emergencies when you cannot reach the foster coordinator and the dog requires urgent care. For any emergent issues that arise after-hours or on weekends, a list of emergency vet clinics has been included in this handout. 5. If your pet is scheduled for a surgical procedure, please be sure to prepare the hound as instructed by the vet. Generally this will involve not giving the dog any food or water after 10PM the night before surgery and continuing this nothing by mouth status until the surgery is completed. In addition, it is often requested that the dog be dropped off at the clinic the day of surgery between 7-8am. For the majority of procedures, the hound may be picked up the same day the surgery is completed after 3pm and taken home. If you are not comfortable with this arrangement and would prefer the hound stay overnight at the vet, please let us know in advance as arrangements will need to be made with the clinic. This is generally not the preferred course of action as it is less comfortable for the hound, increases the likelihood of post-operative illness/infection (dog spends more time around other sick dogs), and costs the rescue more money. Pets and Poisons Common household items can be poisonous to pets! Mothballs, potpourri oils, coffee grounds, homemade play dough, fabric softener sheets, dishwashing detergent, batteries, cigarettes, alcoholic drinks, pennies, and hand and foot warmers could be dangerous for your pet. Keep all prescription and over-the-counter medications out of your pets' reach, preferably in closed/locked cabinets above the 15

16 counter. Painkillers, cold medicines, antidepressants, vitamins and diet pills can be lethal to animals, even in small doses. Read all of the information on the label before using a product on your pet or in your home. If a product is for use only on dogs, it should never be used on cats; if a product is for use only on cats, it should never be used on dogs. Be aware of the plants you have in your home and yard. The ingestion of azalea, oleander, sago palm, or yew plant material by your pet can be fatal. Easter lily, day lily, tiger lily, and some other lily species can cause kidney failure in cats. Make sure your pets do not go on lawns or in gardens treated with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides until they have dried completely. Always store such products in areas that are inaccessible to your pets. If you are uncertain about the usage of any product, ask the manufacturer and/or your veterinarian for instructions. Be alert for antifreeze/coolant leaking from your vehicle. Animals are attracted to the sweet taste and ingesting just a small amount can cause an animal's death. Consider using animalfriendly products that use propylene glycol rather than those containing ethylene glycol. When using rat, mouse, snail or slug baits, or ant or roach traps, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your pet. Some bait contains sweet smelling inert ingredients, such as jelly, peanut butter or sugar that can attract your pets. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center ( ) if you suspect that your pet has ingested something poisonous. Pet Safety Kit You may benefit by keeping a pet safety kit on hand for emergencies. Such a kit should contain: A fresh bottle of hydrogen peroxide 3% (USP) Saline eye solution to flush out eye contaminants Artificial tear gel to lubricate eyes after flushing Forceps to remove stingers Rubber gloves for use during bathing Can of soft dog or cat food, as appropriate Turkey baster, bulb syringe, or large medicine syringe Mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid (for bathing) Muzzle to keep the animal from hurting you while it is excited or in pain Pet carrier to help carry the animal to your local veterinarian 16

17 You should not attempt any therapy on your pet without contacting either the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center ( ) or your local veterinarian. If you suspect that your pet has been exposed to a poison, it is important not to panic. While rapid response is important, panicking generally interferes with the process of helping your animal. If your animal is seizing, losing consciousness, unconscious, or having difficulty breathing, you should contact your veterinarian immediately. Most veterinarians are familiar with the consulting services of the Center. Depending on your particular situation, your local veterinarian may want to contact the Center personally while you bring your pet to the animal hospital. The Dreaded Disease: Bloat The technical name is Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus (GDV) and it is prevalent in deep chested breeds, like the basset hound. It is the second leading killer in dogs next to cancer. It is life threatening, comes on quickly, and requires immediate veterinary treatment, often emergency surgery, to save the hound. Call ahead and let them know you are bringing in a bloat case so they can be fully ready when you arrive. What is it? Bloating of the stomach happens when there's an abnormal accumulation of air, fluid, and/or foam in the stomach ("gastric dilatation"). Bloat can occur with or without "volvulus" (twisting). As the stomach swells, it may rotate 90 to 360, twisting between its fixed attachments at the esophagus (food tube) and at the duodenum (the upper intestine). The twisting traps air, food, and water in the stomach. The bloated stomach obstructs its own blood supply and the tissue begins to die. THIS CONDITION USUALLY HAPPENS IN ONLY A MATTER OF HOURS AND IS INCREDIBLY DEADLY! While sometimes the dog can be saved, all too often by the time the owner realizes something's wrong, it's too late. Thus, if you even suspect your dog to be bloating, call the emergency vet clinic or the foster home coordinator immediately!! Symptoms o Attempts to vomit (usually unsuccessful); may occur every 5-20 minutes - (One of the most common symptoms) o Doesn't act like usual self - (Perhaps the earliest and most consistently observed warning sign) o Significant anxiety and restlessness - (One of the earliest and most common warning signs) o " Hunched up" or "roached up" appearance - (Observed in bloat cases fairly frequently) 17

18 o Bloated abdomen that may feel tight/drum-like (Despite the term "bloat," many times this symptom never occurs or is not apparent) o Pale or off-color gums (Dark red in early stages, white or blue in later stages) o Lack of normal gurgling and digestive sounds in the tummy - (Many dog owners report this after putting their ear to their dog's tummy) Other signs Gagging Heavy salivating or drooling Heavy or rapid panting Whining Pacing Licking the air Refuses to lie down Looking at their side or other evidence of abdominal pain or discomfort Tries to eat small stones and twigs Foamy mucous around the lips, or vomiting foamy mucous Drinking excessively Weakness; unable to stand or has a spread-legged stance; collapse Shallow breathing Seeking a hiding place Cold mouth membranes Accelerated heartbeat, weak pulse If you suspect your basset may be bloating, get to an emergency vet immediately!! Can it be prevented? There are no easy ways to fully prevent or predict GDV. The following measures may be helpful: o Feed 2-3 smaller meals daily (as opposed to 1 large meal) o Any changes in diet should be made gradually over a period of a week o Vigorous exercise, excitement, and stress should be avoided from 1 hour before to 2 hours after a meal o Excessive drinking should be avoided o Avoid feeding foods that are known to cause flatulence (e.g. soy beans, peas, beet pulp, etc.) o Over-the-counter anti-flatulence medications (simethecone products such as Gas X ) may be given emergently if you suspect bloat but are not a substitute for veterinary care. The chart on the next page is included as a reference. Please print and post it in your home as a reminder of this potentially deadly condition. 18

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20 Houston-Area Emergency Vet Clinics Animal Emergency Care Clinic 8921 Katy Freeway Houston Weekdays: 6PM-7:30AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic Northwest 9617 Old Humble Westfield Rd Humble Weekdays: 6PM-8:00AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic Southeast Gulf Freeway Houston Weekdays: 6PM-8:00AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic Northwest 1100 Gulf Freeway #104 League City Weekdays: 6PM-7:30AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic 59 Southwest 9920 Highway 90A, Suite 100C Sugar Land Weekdays: 6PM-8:00AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic 1111 West Loop South Houston Weekdays: 6PM-7:30AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic Tomball Pkwy Houston Weekdays: 6PM-7:30AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency Clinic 920 West Dallas St Conroe Weekdays: 6PM-7:30AM 24hours: Weekends and Holidays The Animal Emergency Center of West Houston 4823 Highway 6 North Houston VETS (8387) Fax: Weekdays: 6pm-7:30am 24hours: Weekends and Holidays Animal Emergency & Urgent Care Center of The Woodlands I-45 North The Woodlands, TX Fax: Weekdays: 6pm-8:00am 24hours: Weekends and Holidays 20

21 Heartworm Disease and Treatment Your foster hound has tested positive/negative for heartworm disease. Regardless of the test results, your foster hound should receive a dose of Heartgard each month. The first dose was given on. Subsequent doses should be given on (check off dose after it is given): **To simplify the dog s preventative regimen, please administer Advantage topical flea preparation at the same time.** For Heartworm Positive Dogs Treatment Schedule (circle one): Short Long Reason: Short Heartworm Treatment ** This treatment is better for large breed and/or young dogs who can better handle a large burden of dying worms in their heart/lungs.** 1. Two (2) Immiticide injections are given 24 hrs. apart. The dog will be dropped off on day #1 of treatment between 7-9am and picked up on day #3 in the afternoon. 2. Immiticide kills only the adult heartworms, not the microfilaria (baby heartworms circulating in the bloodstream). Thus, 3-4 weeks after the last Immiticide injection the dog should return for a blood check. If there are microfilaria in the blood, the dog is given an oral dose of ivermectin to completely clear the microfilaria. After the microfilaria have cleared, the dog will be eligible for adoption. 3. An occult test (antigen snap test for adult heartworms) will be positive for approximately 6 months after heartworm treatment. It is recommended that 6 months after the heartworm 21

22 treatment is completed, an occult test be performed to determine whether the adult heartworms were cleared. Long Heartworm Treatment **This treatment is better for smaller breed dogs, older dogs, and those more at risk for side effects associated with heartworm treatment.** 1. One (1) Immiticide injection is given in order to kill off the male heartworms. The dog will be dropped off on day #1 of treatment between 7-9am and picked up on day #2 in the afternoon. 2. Four (4) weeks later, two (2) Immiticide injections are given 24 hours apart in order to kill off the female heartworms. The dog will be dropped off on day #1 of treatment between 7-9am and picked up on day #3 in the afternoon. 3. Immiticide kills only the adult heartworms, not the microfilaria (baby heartworms circulating in the bloodstream). Thus, 3-4 weeks after the last Immiticide injection the dog should return for a blood check. If there are microfilaria in the blood, the dog is given an oral dose of ivermectin to completely clear the microfilaria. After the microfilaria have cleared, the dog will be eligible for adoption. 4. An occult test (antigen snap test for adult heartworms) will be positive for approximately 6 months after heartworm treatment. It is recommended that 6 months after the heartworm treatment is completed, an occult test be performed to determine whether the adult heartworms were cleared. Heartworm Treatment Plan Injection Series #1 Drop-off Date Pick-up Date Injection Series #2 (if applicable) Blood Check for Microfilaria and Oral Dose of Ivermectin (if needed) Occult Test (6 months from last injection) 22

23 My Foster has Just Undergone Heartworm Treatment Now What? After the dog has completed any of the injection series, he/she will likely experience tenderness in the lumbar muscles (lower back). The injections are administered in the lumbar area and can cause localized pain and swelling. You should avoid touching your foster dog in this area for at least the first week to avoid causing any discomfort. The injected medication will be killing off heartworms for the next several weeks. These dying worms can travel through the bloodstream and cause blockage of blood vessels, which may compromise the dog s lung functioning and even cause death. To prevent this dreaded side effect, the dog must be kept on a lowactivity status for at least 3 weeks following each injection series. This means he/she can go outside on a leash to toilet but cannot run, play, go on walks, or any other activity which may increase the blood pressure or heart rate. Likewise the dog cannot play indoors and should be encouraged to lie down/relax when ever observed in physical activity. This may require putting the dog in its crate/kennel. If you are unable to keep your foster hound on lowactivity status, please let the foster home coordinator know so that you may be provided further assistance. The dog will likely be discharged with a prescription for oral steroid medication. This medicine is given to reduce the inflammation from heartworms dying and traveling in the bloodstream. It will be started at a higher dose and tapered over time until it is eventually discontinued. The medication may be given to the dog with cheese, peanut butter, or any other favorite food item that disguises the pill. Side effects of steroid medication include increased water consumption and resulting increased frequency of urination. The dog may have problems holding his/her urine and have more accidents inside the home. Unfortunately, this is often beyond the control of the dog as the urge to urinate may come on suddenly with little warning for the dog. When left unattended, the dog should be provided newspapers or incontinence pads in case he/she needs to urinate. The urinary symptoms should subside as the dose of steroid medication is decreased. If this does not happen, please notify the foster home coordinator as the dog may require further medical evaluation. 23

24 Signs/symptoms which may be indicative of emergent complications include: fever/chills, often indicated by dog shivering/trembling wheezing, shortness of breath coughing spells, coughing up blood Should you notice these potentially life-threatening signs/symptoms, please contact the foster home coordinator (day or night) at. What is Heartworm Disease? Heartworms are parasites that live in the hearts and lungs of infected dogs and puppies. The resulting heartworm disease can cause serious health problems and can eventually lead to heart failure and death. The transmission cycle of the heartworm begins when a mosquito bites an infected dog and feeds on blood that contains tiny immature heartworms. As it feeds, the mosquito takes in the immature heartworms. During the next two to three weeks, these tiny worms develop into larvae (the infective stage of heartworms) within the mosquito. If the infected mosquito bites another dog or puppy, it can transmit infective larvae to that healthy animal. Without the use of a heartworm preventive, the heartworm life cycle will continue. Infective larvae enter the dog's body through the mosquito bite, and they continue to develop over the next few months. They migrate through the dog's tissues, eventually reaching the heart and lungs. Once in the dog's heart, the worms may grow to between 7 and 11 inches in length and can cause significant damage to the heart and lungs. If left untreated, heartworm disease may result in death. The life cycle of the heartworm is approximately 6 months. 24

25 Adoption Time! Adoption Application Approval There is an established procedure for review and approval of adoption applications submitted to Basset Buddies Rescue of Texas. For the protection of the dogs, we cannot deviate from this procedure. Thus, all interested parties must submit an application and be approved for adoption prior to meeting any dog. Everyone must go through the same approval process, whether they be strangers, friends, or close family members. No exceptions are made regardless of how well you might know this person. Keep in mind that at any point during the application review, the applicant could be turned down. We never promise anyone a dog as we don t know what might happen during the review. Please keep in mind that we are here as advocates for the dogs, not the humans. We will always consider your recommendations on any particular adopter but the final decision will be left up to the members of the board of directors. Generally the individual fostering the basset will be asked to participate in any home visits for adoption applicants who have been approved based on their paper application. The home visit allows us to see the living conditions, meet any other pets/family members, and identify any environmental hazards which may be a problem for a basset hound. It is helpful to have a member of the foster family present as they are the most knowledgeable regarding the basset s behavior and habits and will be able to anticipate problems specific to the foster hound. If we receive multiple adoption applications for a dog, we will generally recommend that all interested parties who are cleared for adoption meet the dog. This will allow you, the basset, and the families to decide together which adoption will be the best fit. Throughout this process, we ask that you help the applicants keep in mind that other individuals are meeting the dog and the final decision as to who adopts the dog will be based on human/dog interaction NOT by who came first. A member of Basset Buddies Rescue of Texas will assist you during the process and most likely will be present for any meetings between adoption applicants and hounds. Giving Up Your Foster Hound Of the numerous reasons people offer for why they cannot foster, the most common is I ll get too attached to the dog and never be able to give it to an adopting family. This is, of course, a very real possibility. Several foster homes end up adopting their own foster 25

26 hounds it is so common that there is a name for it: foster failure. To be honest, most of us (this writer included) have been a foster failure at one point or another. It happens. However, we have each also given up multiple basset hounds to new families and are fully aware of how difficult this can be for the foster. It is a process made easier if you can keep in mind the basset hound that is sitting on death row of an area shelter right now. Imagine how terrified he or she is being stuck in a tiny wire cage, with animals all around barking and crying. Whether this basset hound came into the shelter as a stray or was dropped off by an owner that just doesn t care about the dog, this poor basset is now in a fight for his/her life. We want to help but can only do so with foster homes to take in the dog. You have nursed your current foster back to health and he or she is ready to move on in life. With your help, we have found him/her a good home. A few tears may be shed, both out of happiness for the dog and sadness that the hound will no longer be pulling up a food bowl at your house. Now another basset needs you his/her time in the shelter is almost up will you be there to save a life? 26