PREP SCHOOL. SchoolForTheDogs.com (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

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1 (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

2 THE TWO WAYS DOGS LEARN 1. BY ASSOCIATION (EMOTIONAL RESPONSE) DOG EXAMPLE: A common example of associative learning in dogs is their reaction to the sight of a food bowl. Pull out the right bowl and the average dog will jump into fits of joy. This is because dogs have come to learn that this particular bowl always predicts mealtime. Food is tasty so we love food bowls. In other words, dogs associate bowls with eating. HUMAN EXAMPLE: Humans learn by association, too. When you meet someone for the first time you come away with an association positive, negative, or neutral. If you really enjoyed the interaction, you are likely to be happy to see that person again. If you found the person difficult or argumentative, you might get that little pit of dread in your belly when you see him or her again you ve formed a negative association with that person. HUMAN DOG COMPARISON: Dogs experience the world this way, too, perhaps more strongly than we humans. These associations inform the decisions dogs make and the reactions they have to various situations and things in their environment. The amazing thing is that we can manipulate dogs associations to things. For example, new puppies generally find leashes inconsequential; when first shown a 6-foot length of nylon with a clip at the end they have a neutral association to it. But find a way to make a dog associate anything with something he loves and you can teach him to love that, too. How? Clip on the leash and give him treats or take him for a walk. Every time you leash him, either take him for a walk or give him treats until you take the leash back off. Pretty soon the puppy figures out that the leash means there are good things to come. The frightening thing is that learning by association also works in reverse. You can teach a dog to hate or fear leashes by repeatedly using them to give corrections or tie him up outside on his own. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? Everything you do around your dog influences the associations he makes. HERE S AN EXAMPLE: Say I am walking my dog and I don t like the way he reacts to seeing another dog. Maybe he just barks in excitement, but I don t like it. I shout, No! and jerk his leash. This happens every time we see a dog. Pretty soon, my dog s reaction to other dogs is terrible he barks and growls and lunges and snaps because I have created a negative association: Dogs equal pain. In other words, I have taught my dog to dislike or fear other dogs. This is the main drawback of using punishment it has unintended side effects. It builds a negative association with the person doing the punishing, affecting the bond between person and dog. It is not that punishment doesn t work it s that learning by association or emotion always comes along for the ride. What might I do instead if my dog growls and lunges when he sees another dog? Reverse his negative association with other dogs. Treats are a good way to do this, but my dog might be too upset to take the treats. Put a spider right in front of an arachnophobe, and she will have a hard time listening to instructions to sit down and stop screaming. But keep the spider twenty feet away, only show it for short periods of time, and present the phobic person with conversation or money and with time, a new association will be formed. 2. BY CONSEQUENCE (BY DOING) DOG EXAMPLE: If your dog sits, he gets his dinner. The behavior of sitting will be more likely to happen again. HUMAN EXAMPLE: If you go to work, you get paid. The check you get at the end of the week makes it more likely that you will go to work the following week. Your paycheck is a consequence of the behavior of going to work. HUMAN DOG COMPARISON: The major difference in learning by consequence for dogs and humans has to do with timing. Humans can wait for a reward, partially because we have language that can help us understand what the reward was for, even if it was delayed. You cannot wait until the end of the week to give your dog a paycheck! If you do nothing to try to pinpoint the moment your dog does the thing you like, you risk rewarding (or punishing) the wrong thing. In the five seconds it takes you to rummage in your pocket for a treat after he sits, the dog has sneezed, sniffed the ground, and looked left. All of a sudden a treat appeared. As far as the dog is concerned, he got it for looking left. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? We need precision and immediacy to train dogs. Give your dog immediate feedback by using a clicker or marker word to quickly pinpoint the moment he has done something you like. The clicker or marker word should always be followed with praise, treats, or other dog rewards such as throwing a ball, opening a door, or letting your dog off leash to romp. A DOG S VIEW OF THE WORLD By understanding these two ways of learning, we can surmise that a dogs approach new things and problems with two things in mind: 1. Is it safe or dangerous? 2. What do I need to do (or not do) to get what I want? SAFE VS. DANGEROUS. This outlook on life comes from learning by association. When dogs gets punished for peeing on the carpet in front of you, they don t necessarily learn that peeing inside is bad they may learn that it s not safe to pee in front of you, but it is safe to pee when you are not there. WORKS VS. DOESN T WORK. This outlook on life comes from learning by consequence. All dogs try staring at the refrigerator as a strategy to get it to open. After a time they give up because it doesn t work; the fridge never opens. They also try staring at their people at the dinner table. Every once in a while someone gives in and shares a bite. Staring at people while they eat often works, so dogs continue to do it. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? Dogs don t do things we dislike to get back at us or be stubborn or naughty. To dogs the world is either safe or dangerous and things either work or they don t. Right or wrong never enters into it. Behaviors that are rewarded are more likely to reoccur in the future. If a dog barks at you to throw the ball and you throw it, rest assured he will do that again. If you ignore the barking he will eventually give up and try something else. He is not barking to be obnoxious; he is just doing what works. Be patient with your dog and careful about what you pay attention to and what you ignore, and you will soon have a relaxed, content, and well-trained four-legged friend! Info@ (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

3 REWARD-BASED TRAINING EASIEST AND SAFEST WAY TO TRAIN There are many training philosophies out there. The good news is that reward-based training is supported by science and overall creates safer, more balanced dogs! Not only that - it s easy to implement! Reward-based training relies primarily on the animal being given tangible rewards for doing things that are good while behaviors that are bad are actively prevented with management or ignored/redirected if they happen. Think of setting your dog up to succeed by creating a desirable behavior pattern for them. Our belief is that domestic pets should actively make the choice to comply with their owner willingly - because of the bond they share - not because they are constantly avoiding a punishment. We teach and support rewardbased training practices in order to ensure every dog feels safe and exhibits more reliable behaviors. WHAT S THE DEAL WITH PUNISHMENT? The word punishment is defined as any change in a human or animal s surroundings that occurs after a given behavior which reduces the likelihood of that behavior occurring again in the future. The key here is reduces the likelihood of that behavior occurring again in the future. If administering a punishment doesn t reduce the likelihood of the behavior - it s not a punishment. There are many side-effects to using punishment when training: Your timing has to be perfect otherwise the dog won t make the association. Humans are almost always late in delivery. The punisher needs to be aversive enough to the dog that it reduces the behavior after a few applications. If it doesn t, it s not punishment. Dogs habituate to pain, so if using a shock collar or a choke collar, eventually more severity will be needed to startle or scare the dog - where do we draw the line? It can create unwanted associations, depending on what else is going on in the environment. It will increase aggressive behavior by adding to the dog s perception that the world is a scary place. The only type of punishments which are safe to use involve removing something to dog wants while not creating fear or anxiety. For example, a dog jumps up for attention so the owner removes his attention until the dog is sitting politely. Even here, it s important to make sure this is used in conjunction with more proactive measures like teaching the animal that sitting is rewarding - even when they are excited. Use punishments sparingly and only use ones that will not create fear or pain! BASIC TRAINING COMPONENTS REWARDS: Figuring out what is rewarding to your animal. We use a lot of very small food rewards early on in training, but you will migrate towards using more real life rewards with time. As you figure out the best food rewards to use for what situations, you can also start to note what things your dog finds rewarding in every day life. Eg: the opportunity to go for a walk, getting to chase a ball, belly scratches, etc. Your job at this point is to figure out what is his $100 bill? What will he do anything for? And what is a $1 that you can give a lot of? The more expensive stuff (turkey? cheese? tossing a ball?) will be used outside or in new or stressful situations. The lower end stuff, like maybe (dry food? a belly scratch?), can be used inside and in less distracting areas. TIMING: Determining that the desired behavior is rewarded with proper timing. Behavior is happening ALL THE TIME. Everything your dog does could be considered a behavior. The clicker can pinpoint the precise moment when the behavior you want is happening. It should always be followed by a reinforcer. If not a treat, then praise or something else he really likes. MANAGEMENT: Manage your dog s environment where success is encouraged and unwanted behaviors are less likely to happen. Success breeds success, so you want to maximize the instances of good stuff by creating fewer opportunities to do the wrong thing. How can you construct a world where you can maximize the likelihood that your dog s good choices will be rewarded? And how can you minimize the chance that your dog will be rewarded for doing the wrong thing? Some behaviors provide their own reward, independent of you. Peeing, for example. It just feels good. So, every time your dog pees on your rug, it feels good, so it increases the likelihood that your dog is going to do that behavior again. (Even if you catch a dog peeing and yell at him, it s possible he d misconstrue your attention as reward). Your better bet is to lift up the rug, not let him have roaming privileges if he isn t empty, and giving him the maximum number of opportunities to pee outside. All of these are management techniques. SUMMARY Motivation is what makes reward-based training so successful; the dog is working because it s fun - this creates a happier, more balanced dog. Avoid harsh punishments that cause fear or intimidation. These make the world unpredictable for dogs and often enhance fear and anxiety which can lead to aggression and unpredictable behavior. Punishments that remove something to dog wants and don t create fear or anxiety (ie. dog jumps up, owner attention is removed) can sometimes be helpful; however, it s important to make sure these are used in conjunction with proactive measures. Teach the animal what you want and set them up for success. Allowing the animal to opt-in to learning is important. Active learning results in happier, more confident and less stressed dogs who perform because they want to. Prompting (using lures or manipulating a dog) is not as effective as capturing (ie. rewarding the good behaviors the dog is already doing.) Prompts should be used sparingly - only when needed. Info@ (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

4 SAY PLEASE Say Please is a training strategy that uses everyday situations to reward good manners and practice training without having to set aside hours of practice time. Applying the principle is easy - whatever your dog wants he has to work for. From now on, doors are not open willy-nilly; balls are not thrown. For those and other privileges you choose, ask your dog to say please by sitting, laying down, looking at you or performing whatever trick he knows. WHAT IS IT? With this strategy, you and your dog both win. You get a well-trained, polite dog and he gets what he wants (his ball thrown, his leash taken off at the park). What s more, you have laid the foundation for an enjoyable relationship for a lifetime. HOW TO USE IT Step 1. Make a list of the top things your dog wants and enjoys. Step 2. Vow to yourself not to give those things away without a little manners practice. See them all as training opportunities and ask your dog for an obedience behavior or trick you want strengthened. Step 3. Give him what he wants as a reward for that behavior. Step 4. Repeat, every day, everywhere. WHEN TO USE IT Before throwing a ball, Frisbee, rope-toy, etc. Before giving him a toy. Before putting the food bowl down. Before handing over a treat or chewie. Before opening a door. Before putting on a leash to go for a walk. Before taking off a leash at the park or beach. Before hopping into or out of the car. Before allowing your dog onto the couch with you. Make your list of Say Please opportunities and post on the fridge as a reminder to yourself to practice training in everyday situations. MY DOG LOVES TO ) TRAINING TIP BE PATIENT. PRACTICING BEHAVIORS IN NEW SITUATIONS CAN BE A CHALLENGE. FOR INSTANCE, A SIT AT THE DOOR WHEN YOUR DOG IS EAGER TO GET OUT FOR A WALK IS HARDER THAN A SIT IN FRONT OF YOU. Info@ (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

5 PHYSICAL & MENTAL EXERCISE Dogs are a lot like children: if you don t give them something fun to do, they will make their own fun and often not in ways you approve of. Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise, and you get a happier, healthier, better-behaved dog. Well-exercised dogs bark less, chew less, sleep more, and rest easier if left home alone. They are also much less likely to rummage through the trash or attack the couch cushions. WHAT ABOUT LEASH WALKS? Leash walks are great brainteasers because of all the sensory information dogs get from them, but they don t count as aerobic exercise. Your dog needs to run, swim, or do something else that gets his heart pumping for at least 30 minutes every day. WORKOUTS FOR THE BODY 1. Chasing a ball or frisbee 2. Swimming 3. Playing tug or fetch 4. Active play with other dogs 5. Off-leash romps or hikes 6. Running on a leash with you WORKOUTS FOR THE BRAIN 1. PLAYING WITH WORK TO EAT TOYS: Biologically speaking, your dog is not supposed to have a bowl of kibble plunked down in front of him. He is a hunter by nature, meant to work for his keep. Mimic this by serving your dog s food in a Kong or treat ball. Your dog will spend the first part of the day figuring out how to get at his food and the rest of it recovering from the mental effort. For feeding dry food, try the Bob-A-Lot, Twist-n-Treat or Tricky Treat Ball. Wet food can be used in a Kong or The Nina Ottoson Brick among other toys. 2. ENJOYING A FAVORITE TOY: Toys are a great way to engage your dog s brain. Dogs have distinctly individual toy preferences, depending on the day, time, and situation. Do some detective work and find out what truly tickles your dog. 3. SELECTING TOYS WITH A PURPOSE: The best toys deliver food, present a challenge, squeak, or make themselves interesting in some other way. Some classics to consider: Rope toys, plush toys (with or without squeakers), Hide-A-Bee (Squirrel, Bird), tricky treat balls, soft rubber toys (vinyl), and hard rubber toys like Kongs. Designate a popular toy for use only during alone time, like when you need to leave your dog in his crate, confinement area, or a spare room. Then, rotate the other toys daily to keep the novelty factor high. 4. SNIFFING IN A NEW ENVIRONMENT: Leash walking is great enrichment. You can even put go sniff on cue to teach your dog that walking politely on a leash means he gets to sniff almost anything! 5. CHEWING A BULLY STICK OR EDIBLE CHEW. This not only cleans teeth, but it helps provide chewing enrichment for your dog who has teeth designed to tear and destroy. Better they chew apart an edible chew than a couch cushion! Info@ (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

6 HOW TO BUILD BEHAVIORS WHAT IS CLICKER TRAINING? Clicker training means using a sound (a click) to communicate with your dog. Clickers have been in use for more than forty years. The method is best known from the world of marine animal training where people need a way to communicate with animals like dolphins and orcas that can t be controlled physically. HOW DOES IT WORK? It s very simple. First we teach the dog that the click means he has won a treat. Then we use the click to tell the dog when he has done something we like. Essentially: When your dog does what you want him to do like a sit or a down you click and give him a treat. This gives your dog instant, specific feedback. You can tell a child you will take him out for ice cream tomorrow because he earned good grades today. A dog, on the other hand, needs immediate pointers to help him understand what behavior he is being rewarded for. A clicker is the perfect tool for this. CHARGING THE CLICKER Grab a handful of really yummy treats cut into small pieces. Every time you click, give your dog a treat (be careful not to click and treat at the same time; the treat must follow the click, not precede or coincide with it). Do this standing up, sitting down, while moving about, indoors, outdoors. Basically, make sure your dog understands that the click means treat in all situations. USING A MARKER WORD Using a clicker is a great way to mark behaviors you like but what if you don t have a clicker on you? Don t worry - you can (and should!) also teach your dog to respond to a marker word as well. The same way you ve taught your dog that the click predicts a reward, teach your dog that a one-syllable word like Good! or Yes! does the same thing. CHARGING A MARKER WORD Pick a word like Good Yes or Click. (Any one-syllable, clear word will work - try to make it one that you don t use too often around your dog.) Grab a handful of really yummy treats cut into small pieces. Hold them in your hand or put them in a small bowl. Say the word in a clear, concise tone and follow it with a treat. Do this standing up, sitting down, while moving about, indoors, outdoors. Basically, make sure your dog understands that the click means treat in all situations. You should soon notice that your dog looks up in anticipation of a reward when you use this marker word. MARKER WORD RULES Say the marker word only once. Always follow the word with a tangible reward. Do the exercise a few times a day for a few minutes at a time until, when you click, you notice that your dog is eagerly anticipating the treat. Don t give away that a treat is coming except with the click. For example, be careful not to reach for a treat, point the clicker toward the dog, or reach toward him with the treat before you click. Train yourself to insert a count or a word before you hand over the treat: Click. One one thousand. Treat. CLICKER RULES Click only once. If you click you must treat. The clicker is not a remote control. Don t use it to call your dog to you. Info@ (212) East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009