DEVONBEESKY PUPPY PACK

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1 DEVONBEESKY PUPPY PACK Copyright (C) devonbeeskybulldogs.co.uk

2 CONTENT Welcome to Devonbeesky Bulldogs... 5 About this Puppy Pack... 6 History of the Breed... 7 Bull-Baiting... 7 A New Purpose... 8 New Era... 8 Today s Bulldog... 9 Devonbeesky Bulldogs Contact details Council Breeding Licence Kennel Club Registration Details Name & Address Online Details Find us on Facebook Showing Understanding Dog Show terms for the beginner: About the Pedigree Genuine Pedigree False Pedigree s Health & Welfare Breed Standard General Appearance Temperament Breathing Construction [In short]: Body Head & Skull Eyes Ears Nose Shoulders Forelegs Elbows Weight Cleaning Tail Boys HUU Testing Clear Carrier Affected Inherited Conditions Mate Select General Wellbeing Exercise Join us on Social Media: Page 2

3 Sleeping Obedience & Socialisation Canine Allergies Atopic Dermatitis Inhalant Allergy Emergency Treatment Heat Stroke/exhaustion Diet Advice Quantities Dry complete foods Semi-moist, pouch, tinned and frozen foods Home-made food (raw fresh or frozen meat) Treats Your Bulldog and Chocolate Food sensitivities and intolerances Feeding tips Unsavoury Breeder(s) Selling Scam HOODWINKING (Fooling the Buyer) Marketing Scam Health Risks Things "NOT" To Do with a Bulldog The Breed Council Breed Council Mission Socialising Advice Puppy parties The Puppy Socialisation Plan Exercising Advice Small beginnings Exercise Requirements PUPPY TRAINING ADVICE Important training tips: Toilet training puppies the easy way Feeding Training Environment A trained dog is a happy dog Dog training classes Finding the best dog training club The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme Grooming Advice Getting started Dog coat types Knots and matts Care of ears, nails and eyes External Parasites Other skin problems Professional grooming Join us on Social Media: Page 3

4 Worming Advice Signs aren't always obvious Worming Products How Often Should You Worm? Control Check List Travelling Pets Vaccination Advice First vaccinations Keeping a record Vaccination and socialisation The Kennel Club Devonbeesky Bulldogs are Assured Breeders Devonbeesky Bulldogs are Licensed Breeders The Consumer Rights Act About the Act What is happening? What do I need to know? What should I do? Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ) Q1: Why do Bulldogs cost so much? Q2: Can Bulldogs give birth Naturally? Q3: What is the oldest age a Bulldog has reached? Q4: How long will a heat cycle last? Q5: Can I own a Bulldog if I live where the temperatures get very hot or cold? Q6: What about spaying/neutering? Q7: What about grooming, wrinkles, cosmetic surgery, etc.? Q8: Should I get a male or female? Q9: Is a Bulldog a good family pet? Q10: Can you find Bulldogs in most Countries? Q11: Will my Bulldog need a special vet? Q12: What is the difference between a Bulldog and an English Bulldog? Q13: Why don t we Crossbreed our Bulldogs? Join us on Social Media: Page 4

5 Welcome to Devonbeesky Bulldogs DEVONBEESKY BULLDOGS an Assured breeder of the Kennel Club, formed in 2007 whom have produced some wonderful Bulldog puppies promoting and encourage the breeding of Healthy Bulldogs of the true type. We DO NOT support or encourage the breeding of unrecognised Bulldog colours, as these are classed as cross-breeds, and not of true type. True type includes; White, Piebald, Fawn, Brindle & White, Fawn & White, Red, Red Brindle, Red & White ONLY BULLDOG BREED COUNCIL The Breed Council is comprised today of 19 Bulldog Clubs in the United Kingdom and Northern Ireland registered with the Kennel Club. The Objectives of the Breed Council is to promote the Bulldog of the true type and liaise with the Kennel Club on all aspects of the health and wellbeing of the breed. THE KENNEL CLUB ASSURED BREEDER SCHEME DEVONBEESKY BULLDOGS have been a member of The Kennel Club Assured Breeder Scheme since The Kennel Club are the only accredited body for certifying dog breeders in the UK. This scheme promotes good breeding practice and aims to work together with breeders and buyers to force irresponsible breeders, or puppy farmers, out of business. Breeders nationwide are joining to demonstrate their commitment to responsible breeding. In return, they can use the scheme literature and logo to promote their litters. PETSGOMOBILE - SISTER COMPANY PETSGOMOBILE established in sister company whom predominately transport their own Puppies to the New Keepers, now offer Pet transport between the UK & Europe. In addition, can provide Microchipping, Pregnancy Scanning, Puppy Rearing, Ovulation Testing services in Devon & Cornwall. PETSGOMOBILE NEW for 2019 as part of the mating process, will be offering instant Ovulation testing. This means no more unnecessary trips to the vets for blood samples. Kind Regards K HOLLINGSBEE Mr & Mrs Hollingsbee Join us on Social Media: Page 5

6 About this Puppy Pack Below Is Puppy Pack means the puppy information pack that sets out the Dog Health Information and Future Health and Welfare Needs and forms part of this agreement. Dog Health Information means the information about the Puppy, its parent and grandparents, and these animals health and temperament. Good Health means a condition of health free of parasites and hereditary disorders and of reasonably sound physical condition and temperament. Future Health and Welfare Needs means the measure that should be taken to ensure that the Puppy is and remains in Good Health and is properly housed, fed, watered, trained, socialised and exercised and that it receives appropriate veterinary attention. Seller means the seller of the Puppy defined above. Join us on Social Media: Page 6

7 History of the Breed The English Bulldog, colloquially known as the British Bulldog or Bulldog, is a medium-sized dog that originated from England. The breed was first registered by the AKC in 1934 in the non-sporting group. Today the English Bulldog is one of the most popular dog breeds throughout the world. The stout structure and folds of skin on the face are the unique identity of this breed. Most researchers agree that the Bulldog is either a cross between a Mastiff and a Pug, or a descendant from the Alaunt. The earliest mentions of the Bulldog breed date back to the early in 13th century when butchers used to keep dogs that were bred to catch and hold wild cattle. Later on, Bulldogs were bred for cruel blood sports known as bull baiting. Bulldogs were not only forced to fight with bulls, but also badgers, lions, bears and even elephants. The blood sports were the popular pastimes of the masses that can be traced back to the year This was a sick form of animal cruelty to entertain the people back then. This form of animal cruelty as a sport was finally banned in Bull-Baiting Normally the fight was staged in a field, a pit, or an arena. The concept of bull-baiting was for the dog to engage the bull. Bulldogs were trained to crouch low to the ground to shield their bodies from the bull s horns when it charged. The shoulders were placed on the outside of the body. This was to make sure it could crouch low. Similarly, the hindquarters of the Bulldog are not as well developed as the forequarters, allowing the dog to be shaken violently without suffering any spinal injuries. The head of the Bulldog, like his body, is also the part of the fighting strategies that men wanted to develop. The short jaws (lower jawbone is longer than the upper jawbone) allows the dog to hang onto whatever it wants with a surprising tenaciousness. The grip of a Bulldog is very strong and so is the structure of the jaws. Should the Bulldog be able to latch onto the bull s nose, the Bulldog has a short snout on the face upwards to allow breathing, while retaining its grip on the bull s nose. Join us on Social Media: Page 7

8 A New Purpose Once bull-baiting was outlawed in the UK, there would be no further need for the breed, and they would probably become extinct. But a few fans of the breed saved it by giving the Bulldog a new purpose. This is when the English Bulldog made the beautiful change from a fighting breed to a family breed. The Bulldog s character changed over the years from an aggressive and vicious fighter, to a loving and loyal family friend. Nowadays, a Bulldog will rather avoid a fight and is considered one of the most gentle, calm and loyal breeds. New Era Over the years the look of the Bulldog started to change as well. They became smaller, stockier and got a more flattened face. There is a lot of discussion whether this was accomplished merely by selectively breeding smaller dogs or cross-breeding. Sadly, the last few decades, breeders started to breed even more for looks, and exaggerated the Bulldogs typical looks including their short face, short legs, small behind, and their wrinkles. Some of these features are the cause of some of the Bulldog breed specific health problems. Join us on Social Media: Page 8

9 Today s Bulldog The English Bulldog is one of the most popular dog breeds these days. Most people will describe them as friendly, loving and funny creatures with a heart of gold. A Bulldog is a dog that will make an appearance not only because of its looks but even more so because of its striking character. Inset: Banksy Join us on Social Media: Page 9

10 Devonbeesky Bulldogs details Join us on Social Media: Page 10

11 Devonbeesky Bulldogs Contact details Our business details can be found below. Council Breeding Licence Number: To Follow Kennel Club Registration Details Name: Mr & Mrs K Hollingsbee Contact No: Landline Name & Address DEVONBEESKY BULLDOGS Lake Lodge Bradworthy Devon EX22 7SQ Online Details Our Website: Our Address: mailto:kellyhollingsbee@yahoo.co.uk Find us on Facebook Our Facebook Page: Join us on Social Media: Page 11

12 Thinking of Showing? Join us on Social Media: Page 12

13 Showing At 6 months, we encourage all purchaser(s) to show where possible their dog; There is no such thing as a "perfect dog." Every dog has some faults. The best way to appraise your dog's degree of perfection is to compare him with the Standard for the breed, or before a judge in a show ring. One thing you can start doing with the dogs you plan to show, is to start walking them on your left side consistently. Always on the left. Bulldogs are shown at a slight "trot" to show ease of movement. They shouldn't pull out ahead of you, just shuffle along at your left side. A walk is too sluggish. Walk them about 25 ft, then turn and go back to where you were. Or walk in approximately a 25 ft. "triangle", making turns to the left and returning to your starting point. These are things a judge will instruct you to do. (judges will give you the approximate distance they want you to go, so don't worry too much about an exact 25' range). Shows are held all over the nation, in a variety of settings. You may be showing your dog outside on grass, on the matted floor of a convention centre, or on packed dirt in a rodeo arena. You can possibly find ways beforehand to help prepare your dog for such conditions. To "stack" your Bulldog.. he should stand square. You start by facing his right side. Because the chest is wider than the hips, the front legs will be positioned wider than the rear. Legs should be under the dog, not extended like a Doberman. Get the dog use to remaining in this position as you move to his front. You are squatting or kneeling next to the dog while the dog is stacked. When the judge moves around to view the dog's right side, you move out of the way and to the dog's front. Once the judge is done with the right side, you move back to that side. The dog's head is level, your right hand supporting his jaw (be sure not to force the head upward to an unnatural position). And you will be trying to keep your hand and fingers from interfering with the judge's view of the dog's head. Judges Judges have the discretion to use a "ramp" to assist them. This is a platform-like structure that the dogs are examined on so that judges don't have to strain their backs stooping over each dog. The use of a ramp is to be indicated in the premium list, so exhibitors know prior to entering that show. Show Chokers There are a variety of show chokers and leads in leather, nylon, metal, and a combination of these materials. Chokers and leads are usually selected in a colour that enhances the dog's appearance. Fine-link chokers are popular as they have the nice polish of elegant jewellery, and can be used on a dog of any colour. You want the judge's eye to remain on your dog, not the choker and lead, so select something with this objective in mind. Avoid heavy materials and bright colours. Select a lead length that will not be cumbersome to gather up as you and your dog move to the judge's instructions. Bulldogs are never shown in harness. Exercise These are basic, but very important exercises, to prepare for the show-ring. Your dog will usually be shown with other dogs. He will probably have other Bulldogs in front of him and behind him. Be sure he is use to strange dogs so near, so that he doesn't "wig out". Aggressive behaviour will cause you and your dog to be dismissed from the ring. He must permit the judge to examine him, running his hands over his body, and checking the teeth ("bite"). Your dog needs to be cooperative Join us on Social Media: Page 13

14 during this process. You can have your friends simulate what a judge might do, touching the dog, lifting his lips to view the teeth. This is good practice. Understanding Dog Show terms for the beginner: For a person who is a spectator or one who is interested in showing dogs, the terms used at dog shows can often be confusing. The following is an attempt to remove the confusion so many novices feel about dog shows: 1. Dog- Everyone has a dog right? Well where dog shows are concerned, only those owners or handler of MALE dogs have a dog. 2. Bitch- Far from the derogatory term that comes to mind, bitch simply means a canine of the female persuasion. 3. KC - Kennel Club. This is the best-known registry for purebred dogs in the United States. It is a "club of clubs" that breed clubs, breeders, and dog shows turn to for rules and regulations, as well as dog and litter registration. 4. Registration- Official shows have registration completed by a deadline before the actual date of the show. A specialized form must be filled out with the dog's name, number, owner and class entered. 5. Conformation- The judging of a dog on looks, structural build, gait, expression, and breed standard. Conformation classes are broken up into groups, breeds, sex and ages. 6. Non-Sporting group- Made up of breeds that didn't seem to fit into any of the other categories. This is where the Bulldog is found. 7. CH.- This is an abbreviation seen many times in pedigrees, newspaper ads and show books. It stands for the term Champion. Receiving the set number of points the KC requires at several dog shows will reward a dog the title of Champion. 8. Obedience- Classes where a dog competes against a perfect scorecard of 200. The dogs that score 170 or better have points towards an obedience title. These titles include CD, CDX and UD and each require a score of 170 at three different shows. They must be acquired in the following order. 9. Junior Showmanship- A class in which year olds are judged upon their handling of a dog in a conformation class atmosphere. The handler, not the dog is judge and it is a great way for youngsters to learn about dog shows. 10. Best of Breed- All the winners in a certain breed's classes are placed together by sex. The pick male and female will then compete against each other for Best of Breed title. Reserve- The second-best dog of each sex. This dog will step up to compete if for some reason the winner of the best of breed class can't continue competition in the Group classes. Group- All the best of breed winners will then go into their respective group and compete against each other. In other words, all the different herding dog winners would be in the ring at the same time. One Collie would compete against one German Shepherd, one Corgi, one Shetland Sheepdog, etc. Best in Show - After judges have picked the best dog out of each group, they then will compete in one last class. This class will be Best in Show. It is up to the judge to pick one dog that he or she feels is better than any other dog in the show. Not an easy task! These are some of the most common terms used or overheard at a dog show and will hopefully help you out if you decide to go and watch or even participate in a show. To find out dates and locations of shows in your area, contact the American Kennel Club by phone or Internet. Join us on Social Media: Page 14

15 QUALIFIYING FOR CHAMPIONSHIP Championship points are given for Winners Dog and Winners Bitch in accordance with a scale of points based on popularity of the breed in entries, and the number of dogs competing in the classes. This scale of points varied in different sections of the country. The scale is published in the front of each dog show catalogue. These points can differ between the dogs and the bitches at the same show. You may win additional points by winning Best of Winners, if there are fewer dogs than bitches entered, or vice versa. Points never exceed five at any one show and a total of 15 points must be won under at least three different judges, and you must acquire at least two major wins. Anything from a three to five-point win is a major. Two major wins must be won under two different judges to meet championship requirements. PRIZE RIBBONS: If you place first through fourth position you will receive a ribbon. In classes the colours are blue for first, red for second, yellow for third and white for fourth. Winners Dog and Winners Bitch are purple, while Reserve Dog and Best of Winners ribbons are purpleand-white. Best of Winners are blue-and-white; Best of Breed, purple-and-gold; and Best of Opposite Sex is red-and-white. Join us on Social Media: Page 15

16 Pedigree Information Join us on Social Media: Page 16

17 About the Pedigree The pedigree is the family tree; If buying elsewhere you must ensure you see a Genuine Kennel Club registered document, make sure you ask for it. Also, if you are questioning if the Bulldog is 100% ask has the Puppy been DNA tested? For more information see DNA Testing section Genuine Pedigree False Pedigree s If you DO NOT see the following paper work from Devonbeesky Bulldogs or any other Breeder (see below) and the pedigree does not look like this, or you are questioning the bulldog itself then walk away. DON'T BUY A DOG AS A FASHION ACCESSORY, BUY A NEW HANDBAG OR A PAIR OF SHOES INSTEAD YOU LL BE MUCH SAFER Join us on Social Media: Page 17

18 Health & Wellbeing Join us on Social Media: Page 18

19 Health & Welfare The Breeder has taken every care with breeding, rearing and the welfare of the Puppy. The Puppy is believed to be in good health and it is sold in good faith. The Breeder makes no warranty however as to the health or disposition of the Puppy. Devonbeesky Bulldog Puppy s would have received their first immunisation, been examined by a veterinarian and been micro chipped. Devonbeesky Bulldogs offers you a puppy Sales Contract on which we have detailed advice on feeding, worming and general problems in the breed. Breed Standard A Breed Standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament and appearance of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function. Absolute soundness is essential. Breeders and judges should always be careful to avoid obvious conditions or exaggerations which would be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or soundness of this breed. From time to time certain conditions or exaggerations may be considered to have the potential to affect dogs in some breeds adversely, and judges and breeders are requested to refer to the Kennel Club website for details of any such current issues. If a feature or quality is desirable it should only be present in the right measure. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT ALL BREEDING CARRIED OUT BY DEVONBEESKY IS INLINE WITH KENNEL CLUB GUIDELINES. General Appearance Smooth-coated, fairly-thick set, rather low in stature, broad, powerful and compact. Head, fairly large in proportion to size but no point so much in excess of others as to destroy the general symmetry, or make the dog appear deformed, or interfere with its powers of motion. Face relatively short, muzzle broad, blunt and inclined upwards although not excessively so. Dogs showing respiratory distress highly undesirable. Body fairly short, well knit, limbs stout, well-muscled and in hard condition with no tendency towards obesity. Hindquarters high and strong. Bitches not so grand or well developed as dogs. Temperament Alert, bold, loyal, dependable, courageous, fierce in appearance, but possessed of affectionate nature. Breathing Watch the bulldog run in the garden. It should move freely and not be unduly breathless. Join us on Social Media: Page 19

20 Construction [In short]: The construction of the puppy should be nicely balanced with a good neck length [for breathing] and a back of moderate length. [Too short can be unhealthy causing vertebrae problems] Bitch puppies if used for breeding can be longer as this gives more room for puppies to be carried. Puppies at 8/9 weeks should be nice and chunky this doesn t mean overly obese, as carrying too much weight as they grow puts undue strain on their joints, heart and breathing. As they approach 5 months of age, they should be showing some shape, active puppies become more muscular and less flabby which will be better for their health. Big framed bulldogs do not mean obese so weight guides are all in proportion to the skeleton of the dog in question, if the mother is large there is a possibility that the puppy will be of good size when full grown. Depending on why you are buying a dog should decide whether you buy a dog or bitch puppy. If you want to start showing, buy the best possible bitch with as good a pedigree as you can find. Study the bulldog standard and learn what the show ring requires. If you buy a promising dog and he does not turn out, you must make another purchase whereas with a bitch you have the chance to breed something better. For a pet, one cannot beat the male bulldog. He will be more impressive to look at as the breed characteristics of males mean their heads are larger and they are extremely faithful loving and companionable. You need to see its official registration and have the dog signed over to you. Body Chest wide, prominent and deep. Back short, strong, broad at shoulders. Slight fall to back close behind shoulders (lowest part) whence spine should rise to loins (top higher than top of shoulder), curving again more suddenly to tail, forming slight arch - a distinctive characteristic of breed. Body well ribbed up behind with belly tucked up and not pendulous. Legs large and muscular, slightly longer in proportion than forelegs. Hocks slightly bent, well let down; legs long and muscular from loins to hock. Stifles turned very slightly outwards away from body. Fore, straight and turning very slightly outward; of medium size and moderately round. Hind, round and compact. Toes compact and thick, well split up, making knuckles prominent and high. Set on low, jutting out rather straight and then turning downwards. Round, smooth and devoid of fringe or coarse hair. Moderate in length - rather short than long - thick at root, tapering quickly to a fine point. Downward carriage (not having a decided upward curve at end) and never carried above back. Lack of tail, inverted or extremely tight tails are undesirable. Appearing to walk with short, quick steps on tips of toes, hind feet not lifted high, appearing to skim ground, running with one or other shoulder rather advanced. Soundness of movement of the utmost importance. Fine texture, short, close and smooth (hard only from shortness and closeness, not wiry). Whole or smut, (i.e. whole colour with black mask or muzzle). Only whole colours (which should be brilliant and pure of their sort) viz., brindles, reds with their various shades, fawns, fallows etc., white Join us on Social Media: Page 20

21 and pied (i.e. combination of white with any of the foregoing colours). Dudley, black and black with tan highly undesirable. Head & Skull Skull relatively large in circumference. Viewed from front appears high from corner of lower jaw to apex of skull; also, broad and square. Cheeks well rounded and extended sideways beyond eyes. Viewed from side, head appears very high and moderately short from back to point of nose. Forehead flat with skin on and about head slightly loose and finely wrinkled without excess, neither prominent nor overhanging face. From defined stop, a furrow extending to middle of skull being traceable to apex. Face from front of cheek bone to nose, relatively short, skin may be slightly wrinkled. Muzzle short, broad, turned upwards and deep from corner of eye to corner of mouth. Nose and nostrils large, broad and black, under no circumstances liver colour, red or brown. Distance from inner corner of eye (or from centre of stop between eyes) to extreme tip of nose should not be less than distance from tip of the nose to edge of the underlip. Nostrils large wide and open, with well-defined vertical straight line between. Flews (chops) thick, broad and deep, covering lower jaws at sides, but joining under lip in front. Teeth not visible. Jaws broad, strong and square, lower jaw slightly projecting in front of upper with moderate turn up. Over nose wrinkle, if present, whole or broken, must never adversely affect or obscure eyes or nose. Pinched nostrils and heavy over nose roll are unacceptable and should be heavily penalized. Viewed from front, the various properties of the face must be equally balanced on either side of an imaginary line down centre. Join us on Social Media: Page 21

22 Eyes Seen from front, situated low down in skull, well away from ears. Eyes and stop in same straight line, at right angles to furrow. Wide apart, but outer corners within the outline of cheeks. Round, of moderate size, neither sunken nor prominent, in colour very dark - almost black - showing no white when looking directly forward. Free from obvious eye problems. Jaws broad and square with six small front teeth between canines in an even row. Canines wide apart. Teeth large and strong, not seen when mouth closed. When viewed from front under jaw directly under upper jaw and parallel. Problems are quite common in the breed. Beware of the puppy that blinks a lot or has heavy tear stains at 8-9 weeks although the staining may be aggravated by sweating. Ears Not all dogs need to have their ears cleaned. But others, especially those with floppy ears, need it done on a regular basis. Here are some important tips about how to properly clean dog ears, as well as some things you should never do. Never use Q-Tips to clean dog ears. Just like with human ears, Q- Tips tend to pack more junk down the ear canal then it does getting it out of there. Also, you should never use alcohol or hydrogen peroxide to clean dog ears as that can be irritating. At any point of the process, if your dog yelps in pain, stop immediately, as this could be the sign of an ear infection. Nose A small nose roll or a split one is preferable. Heavy nose rolls and folds all increase the risk of skin problems as bacteria grows in sweaty folds, big nose rolls look cute but can become infected, they require daily care as the puppy becomes an adult. However even large nose rolls can reduce as the puppy grows. Nostrils: Wide Open Nostrils, this will enable better breathing and reduce much of the noisy breathing bulldogs have bad press about. Shoulders Shoulders broad, sloping and deep, very powerful and muscular giving appearance of being tacked on body. Brisket round and deep. Forelegs Well let down between forelegs. Ribs not flat-sided, but well rounded. very stout and strong, well developed, set wide apart, thick, muscular and straight, bones of legs large and straight, not bandy nor curved and short in proportion to hind legs, but not so short as to make back appear long, or detract from dog s activity. Elbows low and standing well away from ribs. Pasterns short, straight and strong. Weight Dogs: 25 kgs (55 lbs); bitches: 23 kgs (50 lbs). Join us on Social Media: Page 22

23 Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog. Testacies Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. Cleaning In a bowl of warm water, Hibiscrub and cotton wool, wipe the eye creases and under the nose roll and chin creases, dry thoroughly. If the tear stains are bad use Tear Stain Remover, follow instructions carefully. Put Vaseline on nose. Check ears clean if needed. Tail Check and clean under tail clean and dry. If you have a female that has saggy boobs check these and crease between them. Ideally the Bulldog should have a mobile tail; this is not always the case as often they may have tight tails. This may produce problems later in life such as infection as it is difficult to clean under a tight tail. The ideal is a straight tail. Boys Don t forget the boys they may need a clean underneath. Light brush. If moulting a lot, then gentle use of furminator. Check and brush teeth. Check between toes for cysts. Join us on Social Media: Page 23

24 HUU Testing Hyperuricosuria is characterized by elevated levels of uric acid in the urine. This disease predisposes dogs to form stones in their bladders or sometimes kidneys. The trait can occur in any breed but is most commonly found in the Dalmatian, Bulldog and Black Russian Terrier where Dalmatians are homozygous for hyperuricosuria. Sire Dam Offspring Clear + Clear = 100% Clear IDEAL Clear + Carrier = 50% Clear + 50% carriers - ACCEPTABLE Clear + Affected = 100% carriers - ACCEPTABLE Carrier + Clear = 50% Clear + 50% carriers - ACCEPTABLE Carrier + Carrier = 25% clear + 25% affected + 50% carriers (DO NOT BREED) Carrier + Affected = 50% carriers + 50% affected (DO NOT BREED) Affected + Clear = 100% carriers - ACCEPTABLE Affected + Carrier = 50% carriers + 50% affected (DO NOT BREED) Affected + Affected = 100% affected (DO NOT BREED) Clear Genotype: N / N [ Homozygous normal] The dog is noncarrier of the mutant gene. The dog will never develop Hyperuricosuria and therefore it can be bred to any other dog. Source: Laboklin UK Carrier Genotype: N / HU [ Heterozygous ] The dog carries one copy of the mutant gene and one copy of the normal gene. The dog will never develop Hyperuricosuria but since it carries the mutant gene, it can pass it on to its offspring with the probability of 50%. Carriers should only be bred to clear dogs. Avoid breeding carrier to carrier because 25% of their offspring is expected to be affected (see table above). Source: Laboklin UK Join us on Social Media: Page 24

25 Affected Genotype: HU / HU [ Homozygous mutant ] The dog carries two copies of the mutant gene and therefore it will pass the mutant gene to its entire offspring. The dog will develop ricosuria and will pass the mutant gene to its entire offspring Source: Laboklin UK Inherited Conditions Every effort has been made to avoid any possible inherited conditions. Conditions known/thought to be inherited in the breed are... Relevant, existing screening schemes have been used [i.e. for hip dysplasia, eye diseases etc] and copies of relevant results have been provided (where applicable) Mate Select The inbreeding coefficient calculated is a guide and a measure to protect both the progeny from a litter and for the overall breed. Just as important are considerations to temperament, health screening, breed type and characteristics. To create improvements in genetic diversity, mating s are encouraged if the predicted coefficient is less than the average inbreeding coefficient for the breed. The average inbreeding coefficient for this breed is 9.9%. This gives the predicted inbreeding coefficients of any puppies born if this mating were to go ahead or of existing progeny from the parents. Inbreeding is defined as the mating of related individuals, whether they are closely or more distantly related. The inbreeding coefficient of an individual is the probability that two copies of the same gene have been inherited by an individual from a common founder, an ancestor shared by both parents. Coefficient The average inbreeding coefficient for this breed is 10 % or less. Join us on Social Media: Page 25

26 Sample: Is the results of one of our stud dogs to show that we practice what we preach; 0% - 10% indicates a dog that comes from two apparently unrelated parents, based on all available pedigree information 12.5% would be the genetic equivalent of a dog produced from a grandfather to granddaughter mating, or the mating of a half-brother/sister 12.5% - 25% would be the genetic equivalent of a dog produced from a father to daughter mating, or the mating of full-brother/sister Your ideally looking to achieve below 10% Join us on Social Media: Page 26

27 General Wellbeing Exercise Exercise should be very limited whilst your puppy is small, and only once vaccinations are complete. A gentle walk for 15 minutes is enough and can be increased as your puppy grows Sleeping Puppies need plenty of sleep so make sure he has his own bed, in a quiet place, where he can retreat to. A crate is ideal. Our dogs all love their crate and go in it of their own accord for peace and quiet. If you have children in the household, it is particularly important that they do not pull the puppy around and let him/ her sleep when it wants to. Obedience & Socialisation When your puppy is 3-4 months old it is good thing to join a training class, where your puppy can learn basic obedience and socialisation. Canine Allergies Dogs, like humans, can also suffer from allergies. Itching of the skin is the most common symptom of a dog allergy. The respiratory tract can be affected causing coughing, sneezing, and/or wheezing. At times, the eyes and nose may develop a discharge. Also, the digestive system may be affected causing vomiting or diarrhea. About 20 percent of the dogs in the United States suffers from some type of allergy, whether it be atopic dermatitis, flea allergy, food allergy, inhalant allergy, contact allergy, or bacterial allergy. Atopic Dermatitis An allergic skin disease of dogs, known as canine atopic dermatitis, is caused by the dog's immune system hypersensitivity to common substances in the environment, such as dust mites. The signs of atopic dermatitis usually appear within the first two years of adog's life. If the dog begins to groom excessively, with licking or chewing of the paws, abdomen, and hind quarters, then it may suffer from atopic dermatitis. Also, check to see if the ears are reddened and hot to the touch. A hidden sign that a dog is atopic is in the armpits, groin, or between the toes of the paws. Check to Join us on Social Media: Page 27

28 see if there is saliva staining. In light colored dogs, it appears as a red-brown staining. In chronic cases the skin, mostly in the abdomen, may change color from a pinkish, to angry red, to black mottling. Flea allergy, food allergy, and parasitic infestations may mimic the symptoms of atopic dermatitis making it difficult to diagnose. Once fleas, foods, and parasitic infestations are eliminated as being the offending culprits, then allergy skin testing for dust mites, pollens, and molds may be done to determine what causes the dog's atopic dermatitis. Flea Allergy The most common form of canine allergy is flea allergy dermatitis. The flea itself is not the culprit in canine flea allergies. It is their saliva that causes the allergic reaction. A skin allergy test can be preformed to determine if a dog is allergic to flea saliva. If it is, then a strict flea control regimen is required to reduce symptoms. Caution must be used however to make sure the chemicals in the flea preparations are not harmful to the dog. Inhalant Allergy Just like humans, canine inhalant allergies are caused by pollens (tree, grass, and weed), dust mites, molds, and chemicals. Although any pure bred or mutt can acquire inhalant allergies, the most common breeds that are affected include terriers (especially the West Highland white terrier, Skye terrier, Scottish terrier and Boston terrier), golden retrievers, poodles, dalmatians, German shepherds, Chinese Shar-peis, shih tzus, lhasa apsos, pugs, Irish setters, and miniature schnauzers. The symptoms of an inhalant allergy include scratching, biting, chewing at feet and constant licking. The itching may be most severe on feet, flanks, groin, and armpits. Inhalant allergies are often the reason for recurrent ear infections in your dog. Food Allergy Dogs can become allergic to a food they have eaten for years which causes many people to over look the possibility of a food allergy. Food allergies only account for 10 percent of allergy problems in dogs. Dogs often can not tolerate soy products, wheat, corn, beef, pork, chicken, milk, whey, eggs, fish, chemical preservatives, or artificial sugars in their food. Determining the food allergen can be time consuming. First, eliminate all the possible allergens from the diet, by using a home made diet consisting of a protein and a starch the dog has not eaten before. Gradually add back, one at a time for a week, the ingredients of the dog food. If symptoms return, then the offending food allergen should be easily determined. Commercial dog foods can be found that do Join us on Social Media: Page 28

29 not contain the offending allergen. Food sensitivities in a dog may manifest as itchy skin, scratching at ears, shaking of the head, licking and biting at the hind quarters or feet, rubbing faces on carpeting, ear inflammations, coughing, and rarely vomiting, diarrhoea, flatulence, sneezing, asthma like symptoms, behavioural changes, seizures, gagging, and vomiting. Contact Allergy Contact allergy is the least common of all the types of dog allergies. Some of the common contact allergens include flea collars, wood bedding, grass, plants, and sometimes chemicals and perhaps the shampoo used.. Bacterial Allergy Several species of Staphylococcus (Staph) bacteria live on normal dog skin. Normally Staph does not cause a problem with its host, but some dogs develop an allergy to it. Join us on Social Media: Page 29

30 Emergency Treatment Please be very careful with your bulldog in the hot weather, your dog can soon start to suffer and quickly overheat. If your bulldog is overheating it is imperative that you act quickly. Initially stand him in a bath of cold water and pour water over his head, especially around his neck, you need to cool the blood going to the brain as in severe cases of overheating there is a risk of brain damage from hot blood going to the brain. (Don't turn the hose pipe on him, it may panic him and make him worse). Place ice under his tail (just inside his bottom if you can), keep pouring cold water over him and keep calm, if you panic your dog will panic. Your dog will go very pale as the circulation system struggles to cope. Keep going with the water - don't take him out of the bath until the breathing has calmed down, talk calmly to your dog - you will be soaked, your bathroom will be soaked but you will save his life! Once the breathing is calmer, remove him from the bath but don't dry him, he will still be very pale (inside his mouth, gums and inner eyes). Let him wander but don't make a fuss of him, your fussing may make him anxious and it could start all over again. Still don t force him to drink, but make up a re-hydration mix and place it in his bowl for when he wants to. You can make up your own re-hydration mix: 500ml of water 2 and a half teaspoons of glucose powder A quarter teaspoon of salt A pinch of bicarbonate of soda This mixture will keep in the fridge for 24 hours, or make into ice cubes to use as needed. If you cannot calm the dog down in the bath go straight to your nearest vet!!!!! Soak a towel in cold water and lay the dog down on top of it for the journey, take packets of frozen veggies and lay them on the back of his neck and on each side of his body. Do not allow the vet to place him in an oxygen tent, these tend to bring on panic that worsens the situation, instead ask them to continue working to bring the body temperature down. If you have air conditioning in the car blast it full cold at the dog, this cool air will help start the cooling process. Remember if you have air conditioning you must keep the windows shut. If you are away from home: Find a river, pond, cow trough or knock on a door, 7UP will do the same as lemon juice in an emergency. Get in the river with your dog if necessary (many bulldogs cannot swim) but don t take him Join us on Social Media: Page 30

31 out until the breathing is calmer, unless he is obviously passing out in which case risk a speeding ticket and get to the nearest vet. Heat Stroke/exhaustion Bulldogs & sudden loss of air conditioning information. Every dog is a potential victim of heat exhaustion, but the shorter breathing system of the Bulldog is what puts them at such very strong risk for heat stroke. Shorter airway means less possibility of cooling the air which the dogs draws into its body. Dogs do not sweat. Their only means of reducing built-up body heat is by panting. The leading cause of heat exhaustion, and its advancing into heat stroke; is leaving a dog in a hot car, but there are other things that cause it like the loss of electricity in your home on a hot day while you are at work. Even on a mild day (75-80 degrees), the temperature inside a car can raise up to 130 degrees rather quickly. Leaving a window slightly open will not prevent heat buildup. Leaving a dog in a car on a warm day is a risk to the dog's life. Remember this saying -"Cars can kill in warm weather". There are many variables in triggering a dog to experience heat exhaustion; the dog's physical condition, its age, its coat length, its breed, and its climate to heat. An older, couch-potato, "snuggle the air conditioner" dog will have less tolerance to the heat than a young, romp outside all day, adolescent. Both the very young and very old dogs are among the highest risk categories. All Bulldogs, no matter how well they breathe, or how active they are, are at risk from Heat Stroke. Take the pet's temperature rectally if possible. A normal temperature is degree. A body temperature of about 104 degrees or higher is probable evidence for heat stroke. Place your pet in a tub of cool running water or spray with a hose being sure the cool water contacts the skin and doesn't simply run off the coat. Thoroughly wet the belly and inside the legs. In extreme cases use a ice pack under the neck and front leg pits. Take a rectal temperature if possible to know when to stop cooling. A safe temperature is below 103 degrees to stop the cooling process. The first signs of heat exhaustion: a) Excessive panting b) the skin on the inside of the ears becomes flushed and red. Heat Exhaustion can progress in to Heat Stroke, as indicated by: a) Weakness b) Staggering c) Fainting - loss of consciousness Heat stroke is an emergency. If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, you must cool him down as rapidly as possible. Don't wait for veterinary treatment. Heat Stroke is an Emergency - Treat the dog NOW! DO NOT try to force your dog to drink. His swelling airways can cause any liquid he takes in to be regurgitated and possibly aspirated into his lungs. However if a dogs temperature is 105 or higher rub a piece of ice on his tongue, 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off. Hose the dog down with cool water - not cold. Apply an ice pack to the dog, and soaked towels or any other form of fabric to their body. If possible, get him into a tub of cool water -- again, cool - not cold! However, in an extreme emergency Join us on Social Media: Page 31

32 if cold is all there is, use it. If none of this is working, a cool water enema can help to cool the dog internally. Be careful not to induce to rapidly, or with water cooler than a few degrees below body temp, or you can put your dog into serious shock. As your dog is panting, his airways are swelling, causing him to pant harder yet again. You need to break this cycle. Children's allergy treatment Benadryl can be administered by mouth from dropper. Consult your vet in advance, or by phone is necessary, for exact dosage. Better still is to obtain a supply of injectable Benadryl to keep on hand. Do not stop treatment until your dog's body temperature is below 103. As soon as the dog's internal temperature has stabilized at a near normal level transport the dog to your vet. Heat stroke can leave permanent damage. NONE of the above treatments are substitutions for veterinary care -- whenever possible, do them enroute to the very closest veterinary clinic. Many dogs will play until they drop. You must supervise the games, and determine when it is time to stop. During hot weather limit your dog's time outside. Be sure that there is a shaded area for your dog to rest in and that your dog has a constant supply of clean water. Never, EVER underestimate your dog's susceptibility to heat stroke. Limit their exposure to temperatures which you might personally find only mildly hot, be conscious of your dog's proximity to hot pavement, NEVER leave your Bulldog in a locked car in even mild weather, and always allow them lots of access to fresh water, shade, and cool areas to escape from heat. Prevention and Preparation Of course, the main weapon in prevention of heat stroke is common sense. As we outlined above, be alert to your dog's actions and responses, and know what may seem like temperate weather for you may be entirely too hot for your dog. Limit activities in hot weather, avoid contact with pavement and concrete, and provide access to shade, fresh water and cooler areas indoors. There are several good cool coats and cool packs on the market to help your dog maintain a lower body temperature. Pet stores carries a full line of cool bandanas, coats, wraps, mats and collars, all made with an absorbent nontoxic polymer crystals that can stay cool for days without needing refrigeration. Look at their selection for more information. What if you have lost power to your home, or the air conditioning as it went out on a hot day? Simple follow the cooling procedures above to keep your dog cool. Plenty of fresh water will help. Also, you may want to fill a tub 1/3 the way full and allow your dog to rest in it, a cool tile floor will help the dog and you can even spread a bag of ice on the tile floor so they can arrange and adjust to their desire to keep them cool. You may also get a few buckets of ice and a fan, aim the fan down on the buckets of ice and that will cool the temperature down a great deal in the home, close all windows, bring the shades down over any window in your bathroom to keep the sun out and make it dim in the room, turn fans on, allow the water in the tub to be there and the ice buckets. This will keep things much cooler. You may also take the dog for a ride in an air-conditioned car, go to a pet store with your dog and walk around a few hours in the cool store, go to your vets, board the dog at your vets, even a police station Join us on Social Media: Page 32

33 will usually allow you to sit in the lobby with your dog. You can also go to a friend s home or relatives place, ask a co-worker to allow your dog to stay for a short time, or rent a hotel room for the night! There is many options to you. Keep them Bulls cool! Join us on Social Media: Page 33

34 Diet Advice Feeding your puppy sensibly and correctly is vital to its health, development and general wellbeing. Below you will find details of your puppy s current diet: Your Puppy s Current Diet Current Meal Times Type of Food Given (Soaked) Quantity (per meal) 6am Skinners - Puppy 100g 12pm Skinners - Puppy 100G 5pm Skinners Puppy 100g 10pm Skinners Puppy 100g Little and often Like all infants, puppies grow very rapidly (up to twenty times faster than an adult dog), and so require a specially formulated diet to aid their physical development. A high-energy growth food is recommended and needs to be fed at evenly spaced intervals to avoid over stretching your puppy s small stomach. Meals should be split during the course of the day and ideally a young puppy should go approximately 4 hours between meals. It is better not to leave food down (so throw away any uneaten food after 20 minutes) and not to change your puppy s food regularly as this could cause havoc with its digestion and toilet training regime. Make sure that water is always available to your puppy, so never take its water bowl away. Quantities The quantity of food should be approximately the same for each meal. Young puppies, particularly those of a large or fast growing breed, can sometimes need more food as puppies than they require as adults. Increases of food should always be gradual and a good idea is to increase the amount on a weekly basis from 8 weeks until the puppy is 16 weeks old. Typically, by the time a puppy reaches 16 weeks, it will need roughly the same amount as when it is an adult. Puppies can be greedy or picky with their food so it can sometimes be difficult to gauge how much to give them. Care should be taken not to over or underfeed your puppy. Puppies can often appear chubby, particularly after they have eaten, but under normal circumstances they should have a defined waist. If in any doubt about your puppy s weight or diet, consult your vet when you next visit for a puppy check-up. Join us on Social Media: Page 34

35 Below is some information about feeding your puppy after 6 months: 3 Meals per day Type of Food Skinners - Adult Skinners - Adult Skinners - Adult Quantity (per meal) 200g 200g 200g There are many varied feeding regimes to choose from: dry complete diets, semi-moist or pouch, tinned food (with or without biscuit mixer), raw food, and home-made food. Each food category has different qualities, and finding the right balance for your puppy is extremely important. The most suitable diet should be easily digested and produce dark brown, firm, formed stools. If your puppy produces soft or light stools or has wind or diarrhoea, then the diet may not suit your puppy or it might have some kind of digestive problem or infection. If the condition persists for more than 2 days, consult your vet for advice. Please remember that stability in the diet will help maintain good digestion. Any change in diet should be made very gradually over at least a week to avoid upset and you should try a new diet for at least 10 days before making any further changes. Dry complete foods There is a wide range of dry complete foods on the market and the quality varies widely. To get the best out of your puppy s development choose a food specially designed for puppies. Some puppies are not accustomed to complete dry foods immediately after weaning but will normally grow to like them with time. If your puppy does not seem to like eating dry complete and this is what you wish to feed, you can try soaking the food in a little warm water to soften it, or mix in a little tinned puppy food, gradually reducing the quantity until your puppy is fully weaned and accepts dry complete. Semi-moist, pouch, tinned and frozen foods As with complete dry foods, semi-moist, pouch, tinned and frozen foods can vary in quality. Again, choose a good quality diet which is easily digestible, nutritionally complete and does not require additional foods to be added to it. As before it is best to avoid changes in your puppy s diet - so if you find a product that works for your puppy, stick to it. Join us on Social Media: Page 35

36 Home-made food (raw fresh or frozen meat) Before the advent of commercial dog foods, it was quite common to feed dogs raw or cooked fresh meat. Many people still consider that there is no substitute for feeding raw meat; these diets are sometimes referred to as BARF (Bones and raw food diet). Meat on its own however, is not enough, and dogs need other ingredients, for example biscuit, and supplements to maintain a completely balanced diet. Puppies in particular, need a balanced and nutritious diet whilst they are growing up, as even a slight imbalance may harm their development and growth. Additionally, home-made foods obviously necessitate a fair degree of pre-planning and preparation. However, there are a number of manufacturers now providing pre-packaged complete BARF diets, which make the feeding regime easier to administer. Treats Giving treats is a good way to reward your dog during training and encourage the behaviour you want. There are a wide variety of prepared and natural treats on the market which vary hugely in quality. Some commercial treats have lots of sugar, colourings, milk products and fat in them, so always check the ingredients label. Good quality prepared treats have been developed with dog s dietary needs in mind. Your Bulldog and Chocolate This includes Cocoa-shell mulch. Chocolate contains a chemical called Theobromine, which dogs are unable to process. Once swallowed the Theobromine is taken up by the liver and then transmitted back to the small intestine which in turn converts it back into the original chemical Methyl xanthine as opposed to being got rid of as it would if swallowed by a human. A lethal amount of sweet milk chocolate is said to be around two ounces to every kilogram of bodyweight. Dark bitter chocolate is about ten times as toxic, so a 20kg Bulldog could actually die from as little as 4 ounces of dark chocolate or 40 ounces of milk chocolate. POISONOUS TO DOGS Onions, Chocolate, Grapes & raisins are poisonous to dogs However, all treats should be given sparingly, and never comprise more than 15% of your puppy s total calorie intake. If you use treats regularly, reduce the amount of main meal food your dog is receiving in order to avoid obesity. Some chew treats have proven ability to help prevent dental diseases, but again check the label to ensure you are getting a genuine product. Join us on Social Media: Page 36

37 Human chocolate is poisonous to dogs and can cause liver damage and even be fatal, so never give your dog any chocolate, or leave any lying around where it might be found and eaten. Be especially careful at Christmas and Easter time. Avoid giving your puppy any sweet biscuits or sugary treats which are bad for its teeth as well as its waistline, and can cause sugar highs and lows. Stick to prepared which tend to be much more popular. Always remember that table scraps contain calories, so they should be taken into account as part of the daily diet. Better still; don t be tempted to feed table scraps at all. Food sensitivities and intolerances Like humans, some dogs are sensitive or intolerant to certain foods, and this can cause a variety of problems. In extreme cases, they may develop colitis (slime and blood in their stools). Always consult your vet if you notice you dog displaying any of the following symptoms: Lethargy. Aggressive or hyperactive behaviour. Chronic skin and ear problems. Light to mid-brown loose bulky stools or diarrhoea. Slime or jelly being passed with stools and flatulence. Bloating and weight gain or loss. Join us on Social Media: Page 37

38 Feeding tips Clean fresh water should always be available. Dogs eating wet food (i.e. canned) will receive moisture through their food and therefore require less water than dogs eating dry food. However, whatever the diet, water should always be made available. Do not refill half empty bowls, but ensure that fresh food is always provided at each meal time. This is particularly true in the hot weather when food left in bowls can attract flies and other insects. Half full cans of dog food should be kept covered in the fridge, but allowed to stand until the food is up to room temperature before feeding. There are two different types of dog food manufactured "complete" and "complementary", clearly marked on the label. A complete food can be fed as a sole source of nutrition and is available as both canned and dry food. A complementary food is designed to accompany the complete food and should not be used as the only source of daily nutrition. It is better to stick to one variety of complete puppy food, so you don t need to add anything to the diet. Always remember that over-supplementing can be harmful to your puppy. If your puppy does not eat all of its meal in one go, you may be offering it too much. Not all puppies eat the amount recommended by the pet food manufacturers. Puppies appetites can vary enormously, with some eating much less than the recommended amounts, whilst others scoff their meal down as if it was their last! As long as your puppy is not showing any growth or digestive problems, resist the temptation to change its diet or offer it a range of foods, as you may turn your puppy into a fussy eater. Never change your puppy s diet abruptly (unless under the direction of your vet). If you want to change its diet, do it gradually over a period of a few days to a week or longer if necessary. Avoid feeding your puppy before travelling in the car, as this can encourage car sickness. Do not feed your puppy an hour before or after exercise or play, as this could lead to stomach dilation and torsion (also known as bloat), which is a life-threatening condition requiring immediate veterinary intervention. For owners of breeds which are thought to be susceptible to this condition, you should seek advice from your breeder, vet and/or breed club on further precautionary measures. Leave your puppy in peace while it is eating from its bowl. Taking the bowl away while it is eating causes anxiety, and this can lead to food aggression. If you want to be sure that your puppy is comfortable with you approaching it during mealtimes, add a little food to the bowl while it is eating, so it sees you as an asset, rather than a threat. Never feed your dog from the table or your plate, as this encourages drooling and attention seeking behaviours, such as begging and barking. Potential Toxins/Poisons (this list is by no means complete and always consult your vet if you puppy ingests anything it shouldn t) Alcohol. Chocolate. Join us on Social Media: Page 38

39 Coffee/Caffeine. Grapes/Raisins/Currants/Sultanas. Artificial sweeteners containing xylitol. Some human vitamins and supplements. Mouldy food. Onions, chives and garlic. Slug pellets and other pesticides. Yeast/Dough. Some garden/household plants. Macadamia nuts. Brassica plants (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, swede, turnip) Information reviewed by PFMA Veterinary and Nutrition Committee. For more information on poisons please visit Join us on Social Media: Page 39

40 Unsavoury Breeder(s) By registering your litter or puppy with the Kennel Club, you can demonstrate to others the parentage and genealogy of your dog(s). So, if you have a champion somewhere in the bloodline, you can charge more for pups or mating s. Professional kudos can be had with an impressive pedigree in one s possession, for example a collection of champions or winners all linked to one kennel, could enable a person to charge higher fees for training or advice. Essentially, it is professionally beneficial for breeders to have the most impressive pedigree possible. IT MAY BE ALL ABOUT THE MONEY? Selling Scam For Sale Rare colours, Blue, Blue Pied, Blue Fawn, Slate, Lilac etc For Sale Rare colours, Chocolate, Liver or Black & Tan HOODWINKING (Fooling the Buyer) Some people are attempting to hoodwink potential purchaser(s) into believing these so called rare puppies are highly sort after and will inflate their value. These people are scamming you into paying a ridiculously high price for a puppy that, years ago, would have been given away for free. They are taking advantage of the naivety of novice owners, who might be attracted to the idea of owning something different, and who don t understand the truth behind fad colours. How have some unscrupulous people managed to get the breeding stock which produce these undesirable colours? - Undoubtedly from other unscrupulous people mainly in Eastern Europe. Bulldogs in all shades and patterns of Blue should be registered as Colour Not Recognised in the UK. If their KC registration document says otherwise, then the integrity of the breeder should come into question. Only a breeder who cares about nothing except making money would resurrect these colours, to the potential detriment to the breed, and to the puppies produced. When they run into problems, they will leave the breed, and the owners who bought from them, to fend for themselves and they will move on to the next new money making scheme Join us on Social Media: Page 40

41 Marketing Scam There is nothing rare or unusual about any of the colours listed above. They are uncommon because serious breeders who have the welfare of the breed at heart choose not to breed them. Rare colours are nothing more nor less than a marketing scam. WHY YOU SHOULDN T BUY UNREECOGNISED COLOURS Because long ago in the past these colours were found to have health problems not usually found in the breed. Some fad colours have been linked to health conditions, specifically, blues with a condition called colour dilution alopecia this condition is so common in blue dogs of every breed that it is often referred to as Blue Dog Health Risks Alopecia. This condition can result in hair loss and chronic skin inflammation. This inflammation can lead to skin ruptures, cracks and injuries, leaving th e dogs afflicted by it, prone to Staph infections, or even MRSA. In some breeds blue dogs can suffer from an immune linked disorder which can cause puppies to die within the first few weeks after birth. Over 100 years ago early breeders of French Bulldogs worldwide, noted all of these factors, and declared Blue, Mouse and Grey to be undesirable because they did not want to see the breed afflicted by these devastating conditions. Because of this, it is obvious that ethical breeders are unlikely to intentionally breed for those dilute colours Additionally, most reputable breeders choose to belong to their national or regional breed club, and all Bulldog Clubs have a Code of Ethics which their members follow. This code states that a breeder will only breed to the Breed Standard for the improvement of the breed and not for monetary gain. Very occasionally a reputable breeder may unintentionally, get a puppy of a nonstandard colour in a litter. This puppy would simply be placed in a pet home, never to be bred from. In fact, past breeders who had odd colours appear would usually place the puppies for free, since their colour was considered highly undesirable. This Unsavoury practice was around 100 years ago, due to the health risks the breeder(ds) were given them away. Join us on Social Media: Page 41

42 5 Things "NOT" To Do with a Bulldog DO NOT IGNORE 1. Never ever allow a Bulldog to swim or be near a pool or water source when unattended. Even when with someone, keep a very close eye on him and keep him in your site always while around water. While CPR is a good option to use in drowning's, it still has low odds of survival in Bulldogs...and best to avoid getting into that situation in the first place! Bulldogs don't swim and will die fast, in a matter of seconds. It's always a safe choice to use a life vest on your bulldog while you re with him swimming or near a water source. His weight may prevent you from holding him up or rescue of him. A swimming life vest prevents that. If you have a pool, be sure it has a dog safe fence with self-latching gates, just like you would have for a child. 2. Avoid heat. Bulldog will quickly die from exposure to hot temperatures, anything over 82 degrees is considered hot and caution should be used. That's with a healthy bulldog, if your dog has troubles breathing or health issues, that temperature is too high. Bathroom breaks and exercise is fine at up to 82 degrees for a healthy dog, just keep cool water available, know the signs of over heating and how to treat it and don't allow them to run and play hard when tempatures are hot, keep outside time limited to short periods of less than 30 minutes with shade. 3. Avoid allowing your bulldog to GULP his food down, he should eat steadily and not to fast, in addition raw hide products should be avoided and small balls or any objects that can be a choking hazard should be avoided. If you find your puppy is eating too fast then we would recommend a Puppy Slow feeder bowl. 4. Never allow your dog to run off leash when near traffic, streets or other animals and when out in the open in any area near a street. (NOTE:) Beware that bulldogs get stolen and caution should always be used as people will steal them from your own backyard, at a park, from your car and other ways. 5. Avoid a vet that does not have experience with bulldogs. They are a special breed with special needs and can't be treated like any other dog. Use a Bulldog experienced vet. Join us on Social Media: Page 42

43 BREED COUNCIL for BULLDOGS [Guide Only] Devonbeesky Bulldogs are not responsible for either this material or Bulldog Breed Council website material. This Content should only be used as a guide. For more information please visit Join us on Social Media: Page 43

44 The Breed Council Several Bulldog clubs decided to form a Breed Council in the 1970's but after a period of a few years it was unable to continue and was disbanded. In 1992 the Kennel Club was actively encouraging clubs to form a breed Council and in 1993 with most of the clubs participating, the Bulldog Breed Council was formed and has been active ever since. Breed Council Mission We have a high regard for this body, we value their opinions and ethics The Breed Council is comprised today of 19 Bulldog Clubs in the United Kingdom and Northern Ireland registered with the Kennel Club. The Objectives of the Breed Council is to promote the Bulldog and liaise with the Kennel Club on all aspects of the health and wellbeing of the breed. The Council meets every four months and is attended by three officials (Chairman, Vice Chairman and Secretary/Treasurer) one voting delegate plus one other representative from each constituent member club. In additional, the Kennel Club Breed Liaison Officer, the BUBA representative, sub-committee members and Canine Press Breed Note writers also attend all the meetings as 'observers'. 'Observers' are welcome to attend council meetings, however they may only participate in discussion at the Chairman's discretion or by Council's request, but without voting rights. Membership of the Bulldog Breed Council is open to all Bulldog Club's and Societies registered with the Kennel Club. A full list of club secretaries and contact details can be accessed by clicking on 'Contacts'. Source: Breed Council Website Join us on Social Media: Page 44

45 Devonbeesky Bulldogs are not responsible for either this material or The Kennel Club website material. This Content should only be used as a guide. For more information please visit Join us on Social Media: Page 45

46 Socialising Advice Socialisation is a term that is often used in dog training books, in dog magazines and by breeders and trainers. But what does it actually mean and how will it affect you as a new puppy owner? Like human children, puppies are not born with the social skills that they require to live with their family, be that a canine family or a human one. The term "socialisation" in simple terms means the learning process that a puppy must undergo in order to learn key life skills to ensure that it is happy and confident in its environment, and can communicate effectively within its social group. We ask a huge amount from our dogs in their role as a companion animal, as not only do they need to understand humans and the human world, they also need to become fluent in the language of dog. This involves having pleasant social interactions with adults, children, vets, adult dogs and other animals, as well as careful exposure to different situations in the environment like traffic, crowds, travelling in the car, vacuum cleaners and any sights and sounds it will have to cope with in life. It is so important that this is done thoroughly and correctly when your puppy is still young and he is young enough to happily accept new things. Puppies that have been socialised effectively in these early weeks are far less likely to react negatively to new situations, noises, people, dogs and animals than their counterparts, who have not had these important early experiences. A well socialised puppy is far more likely to integrate easily into your life, therefore making your life together much more enjoyable and rewarding. There are two parts to socialisation and both are equally important. The first is teaching the puppy to be social with people and other dogs, while the other (called habituation) is about teaching all the things we want the puppy to ignore and not be worried about (noises, traffic, household objects etc.). Being a companion is the hardest job we ever ask a dog to do as our expectations are so high. We want dogs to get on with everybody and everything, and to go everywhere with us when we want, but be happy to be left alone without complaint when we don t, to be accepting of loud noises, strangers, other dogs... The list is endless. It is a sad fact that one of the major causes of death in dogs under two years old is euthanasia, as a result of behaviour problems. Most of these behaviour problems arise from fear (fear of strange noises, fear of being left alone and indeed aggression nearly always arises from fear fear of strange dogs, fear of strange people or fear of strange situations). In addition, far too many dogs are ending up in rescue centres. Behaviourists and trainers up and down the country are seeing dogs with problems that could so easily have been prevented if the first 16 weeks of that dog s life had been properly managed, and they had been prepared for the life they were going to lead. Some breeds need far more socialisation and habituation than others with more reactive breeds (such as those bred to guard, some terriers etc.) needing more and earlier socialisation than others. Therefore, it is important for breeders and new owners to know how reactive their chosen breed is so they can focus their socialisation accordingly. On the breeders part, socialising their litter can start as early as when the puppies are a few days old. Gentle handling and checking the progress of the litter are all important steps in the first few days of a Join us on Social Media: Page 46

47 puppy s life. Over the course of the following weeks the breeder can introduce noises, different surfaces, different play items as well as different play and feeding locations around the house all of this habituation and novelty contributes to the puppies early development. The early ground work that the breeder puts into their litters social and emotional wellbeing has a direct impact on their puppies ability to be fit for function as a family dog. It is imperative that the puppy s new owner continues this when their new puppy comes home. From around 5 weeks and continuing at the time the puppy goes to his or her new home, an important transition takes place in the puppy s ability to take in new situations as his natural fearfulness increases. It is therefore so important that new owners don t miss this valuable window of opportunity for their puppy to experience new things which will close at around weeks. This time also coincides with the puppy s vaccinations, so a balance must be struck so not to miss out on this important learning opportunity. This can be achieved by taking your puppy out and about in your arms, while not allowing them to come into direct contact with other dogs until their vaccinations have taken place. Getting out and about with your puppy is key to them accepting everyday things, such as traffic and busy places, as part of normal life. It is important that you think about what life as part of your family will entail for a puppy for instance, if you live in the inner city spending a significant amount of time socialising your puppy to farm animals may not be of great benefit, as it is unlikely they will encounter them in their day to day life: The same also goes for all the different people your puppy is likely to meet such as: people with beards, people wearing hats, people wearing high visibility clothing, babies, children, people with pushchairs/prams, elderly people, people with walking sticks and people in wheelchairs to name but a few, or anyone else you are likely to meet. Join us on Social Media: Page 47

48 Puppy parties Vet surgeries often hold puppy parties for their new clients, but these should be treated with some caution. Well managed puppy parties can be great social interaction for puppies of all ages and sizes. Well managed parties should: Match puppies up according to their size so that the bolder puppies don t intimidate the more nervous or smaller ones, and thereby create negative experiences for the smaller puppies, and make the bolder ones social bullies. Manage any off-lead play carefully and if necessary, separate puppies that get a bit too boisterous so that they can calm down and re-join the party once they are calmer. Discourage any kind of anti-social behaviour, such as biting that gets out of hand, very rough play and also show the owners how to discourage this. Show owners how to handle and groom their puppies and have others do this too. Be fun positive experiences for puppies and owners. The Puppy Socialisation Plan Until now there was no definitive plan for effectively socialising your puppy, which was resulting in rescue centres seeing increasing numbers of dogs coming to them with behavioural issues that could have been avoided with proper socialisation. In order to counteract this, the Kennel Club and Dogs Trust have jointly devised a socialisation plan for both breeders and new owners to follow as a step by step guide - it is called the Puppy Socialisation Plan. Both the Kennel Club and Dogs Trust recommend the Puppy Socialisation Plan as an effective plan for breeders and new owners to prepare their puppies as best they can for life as family pets. It is simple to complete, and can be tailored to suit you and your lifestyle, so it is highly recommended that novice breeders and new owners follow the Plan. It is critical that this is done from birth up to 16 weeks of age, otherwise important learning and development phases have passed. The Plan covers everything from getting used to household noises, to getting out and about and meeting new people and other dogs. Therefore, you need to plan and incorporate some extremely important life lessons during the early stages of your puppy's development, so that you end up with a well-balanced and sociable dog. You can find The Puppy Socialisation Plan located at - Join us on Social Media: Page 48

49 Exercising Advice An important part of a dog s life is exercise, not only for fitness, but also for mental stimulation. Indeed exercise times and feeding times are often the most exciting parts of a dog s day, and your puppy will grow to keenly anticipate them. Small beginnings Puppies need much less exercise than fully-grown dogs. If you over-exercise a growing puppy, you can quickly overtire it, and more importantly damage its developing joints, which may cause early arthritis. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of five minutes exercise per month of age (up to twice a day), until the puppy is fully grown, i.e. 15 minutes when three months old, 20 minutes when four months old etc. Below you will find breed-specific exercise information relating to your puppy: Exercise Requirements 0-12 weeks. Until a puppy has completed its course of vaccinations, there is a risk of infection. Therefore, it is usually better that exercise is restricted to within the confines of your garden. Exercise in the garden also provides an excellent opportunity to start early training, and to get your puppy used to wearing a collar. Make sure your puppy has a number of safe toys, and always accompany them in the garden. This way, you can engage your puppy in suitable levels of activity, and start to reward good toileting behaviour, which can usually provide all the puppy s exercise needs during this time. If the opportunity arises, take your puppy to other safe environments where there is no risk, and it is able to mix with other animals and people, such as private gardens where only vaccinated dogs have access. Socialising at an early age is a vital part of your dog s development. Age of Puppy Duration of Exercise Required (per walk) Number of Walks (per day) Total Amount of Exercise (per day) 3-4 months minutes 4-6 months minutes 6-9 months minutes 9-12 months minutes 1 year minutes It is important that puppies and dogs go out for exercise every day in a safe and secure area, or they may become frustrated. Time spent in the garden (however large) is no substitute for exploring new environments, and socialising with other dogs. When you go out, make sure your puppy is trained to recall, so that you are confident the puppy will return to you when called (see the accompanying sheet on Training your Puppy ). You should never exercise your puppy on a full stomach as this may contribute to bloat or stomach dilation which can sometimes prove fatal. Join us on Social Media: Page 49

50 All dogs require regular exercise to remain fit and prevent them from becoming overweight, which may also lead to health problems. You should remember however, that exercise needs to be introduced gradually, and that a young puppy will not have the same exercise requirement as an adult dog. The duration and frequency of exercise should remain consistent and any increases should be gradual. For the majority of dogs, exercise is an important part of their life and so they will take as much as you can give. A dog will also enjoy play, whether with you or on its own, and so toys play an important part in a dog's life. Dependant on breed and temperament and mobility, a dog will normally be capable of walking to the same capability as its owner, however as a dog becomes older, exercise should be reduced and your dog should be allowed to walk at its own pace. PUPPY TRAINING ADVICE Bringing your puppy home for the first time is naturally a happy and exciting occasion, but it can be a little daunting too there is so much for both you and your puppy to learn! The information below should help you on your way to raising a happy and well trained dog right from the start. Important training tips: Start as you mean to go on. If you are always consistent you will avoid confusing your puppy. Puppies have a very short attention span so train for short spells on a regular basis Keep it short and keep it simple, but most of all keep it fun. Puppies respond better to cheerful voice tones rather than to threatening orders. Gentle play builds trust and a strong bond between you and your puppy as well as making training fun. Patience is the KEY ingredient in dog training. If you try to rush things you will only get frustrated and confuse your puppy. Keep it interesting: cultivate a range of different rewards incorporating play, fuss, praise, treats and toys. This will stop both of you from getting bored. Toilet training puppies the easy way Toilet training is obviously a crucial part of your puppy s early learning. Getting it right is relatively simple, and will make those first weeks so much more enjoyable for you both. However, like all things, bad habits learnt early on can lead to problems that may take weeks or even months to resolve. Initially, you will have to build your daily routine around your puppy s needs. Fortunately, these are quite predictable when they are very young, and with careful supervision you should quickly establish when it is the right time to go outside and minimise any accidents. Join us on Social Media: Page 50

51 Like babies, puppies have poor bladder control, and need to go to the toilet several times an hour when they are awake. They will also usually need to be taken outside first thing in the morning, last thing at night, after each meal, waking from a nap, and after any exercise, play or excitement. You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy sleeps, eats and goes to the toilet so that you can identify any patterns that emerge. One tip is to use a food timer to remind you when it is time to take your puppy outside to relieve itself. If you find that your puppy needs to go every 20 minutes then set the alarm as soon as he has gone and take him outside the moment the alarm goes off. Always go with your puppy into the garden and establish a regular spot. Puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to the puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most accidents. Decide on a cue word or phrase to use when the puppy is actually going to the toilet, so that the puppy will start to associate the word with the action and should learn to go on command. By accompanying your puppy into the garden each time, you will be there to attach cue words and praise to any successful actions. If toilet training is not going quite as well as planned, some common reasons for why your puppy is struggling are as follows: Feeding You are feeding the puppy too much. The puppy food you are giving is unsuitable or you are giving too much variety for a puppy of their age. You are not feeding at regular times. You are feeding at the wrong times (which could mean your puppy needs to go to the toilet during the night). You are giving foods which are too salty, causing your puppy to drink more. Training Punishing your puppy for accidents indoors may make it scared of going to the toilet in front of you even outside. Expecting your puppy to tell you when it needs to go to the toilet is unrealistic. It is far better to go outside at regular intervals. Leaving the back door or outside access open for your puppy to come and go as it pleases can cause confusion particularly when that access is closed. Do not leave your puppy too long on its own so that it is forced to go indoors. Leaving your puppy alone in the garden means that you are not there to praise and reward, or to reinforce the idea that the garden is the correct place to go. Try to avoid using the words good boy/girl when your puppy is going to the toilet - you don t want your puppy going to the toilet every time it is praised. Puppies can exhibit submissive or Join us on Social Media: Page 51

52 excitable urination when greeting you on your return home. Toning down greetings can help prevent your puppy from becoming overexcited. Young puppies will not be able to go through the night without needing to go to the toilet. If they do wake you up, it really is worth getting up to let them out. Environment Being surrounded by lots of absorbent or grass-like surfaces, such as rugs and carpets, may confuse your puppy. Ammonia based cleaning products used around the house can smell like urine to your puppy, and lead to unwanted accidents. If your puppy does have an accident inside, the scent will still be apparent to the puppy for a long time afterwards, even if you have thoroughly disinfected the area. Specialist cleaning products specifically designed to mask the odour are available. Beyond the garden, many owners can be disappointed that their young puppy does not initially toilet when first venturing out on walks. Often, your puppy will only relieve itself the second you get home. This is because the puppy has not yet associated going out for a walk as an opportunity to go to the toilet, so will wait until they return home to their garden, which they know is a good place to go. To break this habit, get up a little earlier in the morning (when you have plenty of time) and take your puppy out on a walk before it has had a chance to visit its usual spot. Stay out with your puppy for a reasonable length of time until it has been to the toilet, and then give plenty of praise. If you are not successful, make sure the puppy is whisked into the garden to relieve itself or you will run the risk of a large puddle indoors! Remember, patience and consistency is key. All puppies take different amounts of time to learn, so don t worry if your puppy seems to be taking longer to get the hang of things. Your patience will pay off and you will both get there in the end. A trained dog is a happy dog Housetraining aside, every puppy also needs to be taught good manners and have constructive lessons in basic control and social interaction. This includes: Responding to its name. Learning how to greet and behave politely around other people and dogs. To come back when called. To walk nicely on the lead. To sit down and stay on command. To allow itself to be groomed and examined by you and your vet. Join us on Social Media: Page 52

53 Dog training classes Most owners can benefit from attending good training classes, and training in the company of other dogs is very useful, because of the realistic distractions it involves. Ideally, you should start your classes as soon as your puppy s vaccinations are complete, but classes can be invaluable for older dogs too, and continue throughout the dog s life. There are lots of schools of thought on dog training and it is naturally important that you find a class and training instructors with the right approach for you and your puppy. Dog training can be lots of fun and very rewarding. After all, a trained dog is a happy dog, and a happy dog makes for a happy owner too. Finding the best dog training club Before enrolling with a dog training club it can be beneficial to go and visit several classes first (without your puppy) to make sure you have made the right choice. Things you may wish to consider include: Do you like what you see are the trainers friendly, are people happy and enjoying training their dogs? Are the dogs happily focused on their human family? Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information to all attendees? Are the instructors maintaining a controlled, safe environment for all? Are instructors treating everyone fairly and meeting the needs of the whole group? You can find training classes by using the Kennel Club s Find a Club service visit to find a club near you running training classes, or call the Kennel Club on You can also ask your vet and other dog owners for recommendations. Join us on Social Media: Page 53

54 The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme is the UK s largest dog training programme, and has been introduced to assist owners in training their dogs to be obedient in every day situations. Its simple but effective dog training techniques encompass all the skills necessary for a happy and rewarding partnership with your dog. There are four levels of the Scheme, namely Puppy Foundation, Silver, Bronze and Gold. Each level is designed to further develop an owner s understanding of training, while building a dog s confidence and levels of obedience. All dogs are eligible to take part, whether they are young or old, pedigree or crossbreed. Over 2000 dog training schools throughout the UK offer Scheme training courses. The Kennel Club Accreditation Scheme for Instructors in Dog Training and Canine Behaviour The Kennel Club Accreditation Scheme for Instructors in Dog Training and Canine Behaviour (KCAI) is the UK s first and only national and verified qualification in dog training and canine behaviour, recognised by City & Guilds. Representing the gold standard in teaching, advice and service, members of the Scheme abide by a strict Code of Practice designed to ensure that dog owners are provided with the best advice and service. Look for the badge of quality when you are choosing a trainer. You can see which clubs have KCAI Accredited instructors on the Kennel Club s Find a Club service. Join us on Social Media: Page 54

55 Grooming Advice All dogs will benefit from regular grooming, whether they are a short haired breed or one with a long or fluffy coat. Reasons for grooming Remember CHAIR Cleanliness keeping your dog s coat clean by removing dirt and dead hair helps encourage new hair growth, and reduces the amount of hair deposited on household furniture Health grooming helps to stimulate new coat growth, and prevents the formation of knots or matting which may lead to skin irritation Appearance most owners take a pride in their dogs looking smart, and regular grooming will certainly help your puppy to look its best Inspection regular grooming is also a great way to check for parasites, or any suspicious lumps and bumps Relationship grooming is part of dog s socialisation activities. Regular grooming helps create a bond between you and your puppy and accustoms your puppy to being handled. Do remember that grooming should include checking ears, nails, teeth, and eyes etc. on a regular basis. Getting started It is important to groom your puppy at a height which is comfortable for both you and your dog. For many dogs it may be advisable to groom them on a table and custom made grooming tables are available. But any sturdy table or work bench with a non-slip surface will suffice. Remember: never leave your puppy unattended on the table for even a short moment. Start the grooming experience at an early age as part of your puppy s socialisation programme and routines. Keep the sessions short to start off with just a couple of minutes, gradually increasing the time spent on the table. Always make the experience positive, rewarding with praise and suitable treats. Any struggling should be dealt with firmly but kindly, as your puppy may be frustrated, mischievous or even afraid. Join us on Social Media: Page 55

56 Build up the experience and your puppy will come to accept the grooming routine and also being handled on the table. This will help with other activities such as veterinary visits. Finish the grooming if your puppy shows signs of getting bored or tired, so that each session ends on a positive note. Dog coat types It s worth bearing in mind that factors like neutering, age, poor diet and poor health can dramatically influence your dog s coat. Knots and matts A knot occurs where the coat is slightly tangled but it can be removed by careful brushing or combing out. Matts are formed when dead, loose undercoat hair becomes trapped by the top or guard hair, and starts to clump and twist together. If this matted coat becomes wet, the matting tightens and becomes almost solid. Do not attempt to remove matts unless trained in the procedure. Otherwise, refer to a professional groomer. Care of ears, nails and eyes Check your puppy s ears to see if they are clean. You can remove excess dirt from the inside of the ear flap with damp cotton wool. Never probe inside the ear as you may perforate the ear drum. Any odour is usually a sign there is something wrong and your puppy should be taken to a vet. If nails are excessively long remove the tip of the claw, taking care not to cut the quick or blood vessel. If needed clean the eyes with clean, damp cotton wool using a separate piece for each eye. Join us on Social Media: Page 56

57 External Parasites A parasite is something that lives on another animal (the host) and gets its nourishment from the host. If left unchecked, the parasite causes disease or even death. The most common external parasites found on dogs are fleas and ticks. Fleas are very small, brownish black, extremely agile creatures. Excessive scratching and selfbiting can be symptoms of flea infestation. Even if no fleas are to be seen the presence of shiny black specks like coal dust (flea excreta) is a sure indication of the presence of fleas (dab the specks with a damp piece of cotton wool and if it goes pink it confirms the presence of fleas; these are the remains of a digested blood meal from the host). Ticks are largish grey pea shaped parasites that can be 3 to 4mm in length. They attach themselves to other animals in order to have a blood meal. There is evidence that ticks are also a threat to human health as they can spread Lyme disease. There is now a wide range of proprietary powders, sprays, spot-on treatments and anti-flea and tick collars available. A dedicated pet care professional will be happy to advise on suitable products. Other skin problems Ringworm is a fungal disease, affecting the skin, nails and hair. Circular lesions appear causing hair loss, which become scaly and crusty. Ringworm is contagious and is a zoonotic condition (transmissible to humans). Dermatitis causes irritation, hair loss and inflammation and is a result of sensitivity to the environment. Alopecia can range from a thinning of hair to total hair loss and can be caused by a number of factors such as skin parasites, hormonal imbalance, infections, stress or poor nutrition. Seek veterinary advice for any skin problems. Professional grooming Some breeds of dog may require professional trimming and styling. Most coated breeds will require full grooming about once every four to six weeks, but even short coated breeds can benefit from a wash and brush up more regularly to remove dust and dirt. Join us on Social Media: Page 57

58 Worming Advice Worming your dog throughout its lifetime is important, and you should talk to your vet about a suitable worming programme for your puppy at the earliest opportunity. Regular worming not only protects your dog s health but helps to prevent the spread of infection and potentially hazardous health risks to other animals and humans too. Worm infections carried by your dog do not always display obvious symptoms, so an adequate treatment schedule is vital. Some worming treatment has been carried out prior to you receiving your puppy. Do discuss this further with your own veterinary surgeon. Number of weeks old Product Used 2 weeks Doltrol 4 weeks Doltrol 6 weeks Doltrol 8 weeks Doltrol 10 weeks (Buyers Responsibility) Speak to your Vet Signs aren't always obvious Dogs can appear healthy even when they have worm infections. Detecting an infection can be tricky, particularly as worm eggs are too small to be easily visible in your pet's faeces. In addition, your dog may be more at risk from some worm infections than others depending on where you live. It is therefore extremely important to keep your dog s treatment regular and up-to-date. Specific signs will be described for each worm, but remember that not all worm infections will be obvious in your dog, so some more general signs to look for include: The presence of visible worm segments that could stick to your dog's bottom and become itchy. This can cause dogs to scoot, whereby they drag their bottoms along the ground with their back legs. Doing this also means that your dog will be rubbing its infected bottom on your floor or carpet, which is naturally unhygienic. Weight loss. Vomiting. Diarrhoea. A dull, lifeless coat. A change in appetite (it may be either increased or decreased depending on the worms present). A lack of energy. A pot-bellied appearance (most commonly seen in puppies). Breathing difficulties and coughing. Join us on Social Media: Page 58

59 General changes in behaviour. You should seek advice from your vet if you see any of the above signs in your dog. Many of these symptoms may be indicative of other illnesses. Your vet will be able to investigate the problem and provide appropriate advice and treatment. Worming Products There are a wide variety of worming products available from several different sources. These products vary in activity spectrum (the worms they treat or prevent), how you administer the treatment (spot-on / injection / oral medication), dosage instructions and speed or duration of activity. Always check with your vet before initiating a worming regime. This way you can be confident that you are using the most appropriate products and following the best treatment for the needs of your dog and family. How Often Should You Worm? All animals are at risk from acquiring worm infections. However, some animals will be at higher risk than others depending on factors such as their lifestyle and area in which you live. Children are at increased risk of disease from worms; if you have a young family or your dog often meets children, you should pay attention to regular worming. Again, always consult with your vet about the most appropriate treatment schedule. Control Check List As well as following a worming plan following consultation with your vet, there are also many other practical things you can do to help prevent the spread of worm infections among your pets and family. These are as follows: 'Poop scooping' - make sure you pick up your dog's faeces immediately on a walk and remove it from the lawn or surrounding outdoor environment daily - bag it, and put it in designated poop bins, double bag it, and put it in with the domestic waste, or check with you local council. Ensure you and your children wash your hands after handling / stroking your dog. Wash all food including fruit and vegetables before eating them. Don't allow children to put dirt in their mouths. Throw away any food dropped on the floor / ground rather than eating it. Cover children's sandpits when not in use. Join us on Social Media: Page 59

60 Travelling Pets There are specific parasitic worms to which your pet may be exposed to on visiting countries outside the UK. Two notable worms are Heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis), transmitted by a mosquito bite, which could be fatal if your dog is not protected, and one type of Tapeworm (Echinococcus multilocularis), which can cause serious and fatal disease in people. If you are intending to travel with your dog, you should talk to your vet in plenty of time to establish the best worming regime to ensure the protection of both your dog's health and that of your family. For further information about what you need to do before, during, and after travel abroad with your dog, refer to the Pet Travel Scheme guidelines on the DEFRA website, Join us on Social Media: Page 60

61 Vaccination Advice There are several common infectious diseases that dogs are susceptible to throughout their life. Some of these diseases are life threatening and young puppies are particularly vulnerable, so It is important that your puppy is vaccinated against them. Further vaccination as adult dogs may be required to ensure that your dog continues to be healthy and happy throughout its entire life. Some vaccination may have been carried out prior to you receiving your puppy. Please take this with you on your puppy s first visit to a veterinary surgeon. Vaccination Given Age of Puppy Date Administered 1 st 6 weeks See Vets Health Card (Locto 2 Only) 2 nd 8 weeks Buyer to arrange Please seek the advice of your puppy s veterinary surgeon for information on future vaccination. First vaccinations Normally, your puppy can receive its first vaccination from approximately eight weeks of age although this can vary depending on the normal practice of the treating vet. The vet will most likely start your puppy on a course of vaccinations against the four main infectious diseases; canine distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus and leptospirosis. All of these diseases can be fatal, so after its first course of vaccinations, your puppy may need booster vaccinations according to your vet s advice. Keeping a record Once a puppy is vaccinated, the vet will issue a vaccination certificate showing a record of exactly when the puppy was vaccinated, and which product was used. This should be kept safe, as you may need to show them at boarding kennels, dog-training classes, or if you take your dog abroad. If you change vet, they may recommend a slightly different regime, and it will be useful to see what vaccination your puppy has had in the past. Vaccination and socialisation Until your puppy is fully vaccinated you should prevent them from being exposed to dogs that could be infected or areas that infected dogs could have had access to. Puppies are most receptive to new environments and situations at this age, so keeping them confined to your house and garden may be counterproductive. During these important first weeks at home, you could take your puppy out to different places in your arms or the car to get them used to different situations and noises, as well as letting them meet new people. Further details on socialisation is available in the Kennel Club Puppy Plan which can be viewed at Join us on Social Media: Page 61

62 The Kennel Club The Kennel Club are the UK s largest organisation dedicated to protecting and promoting the health and welfare of all dogs. Besides being a voluntary register for pedigree dogs and crossbreed dogs, The Kennel Club offer dog owners and those working with dogs an unparalleled source of education, experience and advice on puppy buying, dog health, dog training and dog breeding. Devonbeesky Bulldogs are Assured Breeders The Kennel Club Assured Breeder Scheme recognises good practices in dog breeding and encourages compliance with such practices. It does not guarantee the health or disposition of a dog. Compliance is the responsibility of the breeder and the Kennel Club maintains a grievance procedure for referral of complaints. The purchaser retains his/her statutory and contractual rights. The Kennel Club disclaims any liability relating to the health or disposition of a dog or the conduct of Assured Breeders. Devonbeesky Bulldogs is a Kennel Club assured breeder who has been accredited with an Affix. Meaning that Devonbeesky Bulldogs have been approved to breed bulldogs and have met the strict, high standards required by them. Devonbeesky Bulldogs are Licensed Breeders From October 2018 all dog breeders in the UK will be required by Law to hold a Breeders Licence. The plans to tighten up laws around selling pets and breeding dogs will make it completely illegal to sell puppies younger than eight weeks and require anyone breeding and selling three or more litters of puppies a year to apply for a formal licence. Irresponsible breeders who don t stick to these rules face an unlimited fine and/or up to six months in prison. Join us on Social Media: Page 62

63 The Kennel Club aims to promote the health, happiness and general wellbeing of all dogs, and to provide you with an invaluable resource for every aspect of life with your dog. To find out more, visit The Kennel Cub Clarges Street Piccadilly London W1J 8AB Join us on Social Media: Page 63

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