JFF Agility Notebook Official Publication for Just For Fun Dog Agility for the Rest of Us

Transcription

1 JFF Agility Notebook Official Publication for Just For Fun Dog Agility for the Rest of Us Volume, Issue #9 January, 0

2 Table of Contents Click on a topic to go there EDITORIAL FOUNDATION TRAINING Volume, Issue #9 January 0 The JFF Agility Notebook is published monthly by Dogwood Training Center, LLC EDITOR Marsha Martin JUNIOR HANDLER MANUAL CONSTRUCTION PLANS TRAINING PLANS FOR THE AGILITY CENTER 7 WEEK GAMBLERS 9 WEEK -- COLORS WEEK DARE TO DOUBLE 6 WEEK POLE JACKS 8 CONTRIBUTORS Patty Gallegos, Kurt L. Glaub, Bud Houston, Nancy Krouse-Culley, Marsha Martin, Ruth Van Keuren SUBMISSIONS The JFF Agility Notebook welcomes submissions of articles or artwork on an exclusive basis. Submission constitutes permission for JFF Agility Notebook to use the submitted materials, in whole or in part, without compensation to the submitter. PERMISSIONS No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the permission of the publishers Copyright 0 Dogwood Training Center, LLC Cover art "Kaillean" Pembroke Welsh Corgi -- owner-susan Sammis of Las Cruces, New Mexico. Artist- Patty Gallegos of Peralta, NM

3 Editorial Marsha Martin, Editor We're often asked, "Who will be instructing my class?" And Bud has been asked, "What should the criteria for instructors be?" Often the answer is, "The best instructor is the dedicated person willing to sacrifice their time to help others reach success." Here at Dogwood, we recognize two separate types of agility student. Our beginner agility classes are generally attended by folks who are new to agility training, and often new to dog training altogether. Their needs are quite different from the folks in our competition classes. Our beginner agility instructors, therefore, are agility enthusiasts who have trained their dog and begun showing, but who are primarily interested in expanding their education by observing a wide range of breeds and types of dogs. They're enthusiastic cheerleaders for the beginner handlers, many of whom are easily discouraged by the little set-backs which are normal in a beginner setting. For pure fun, there's no group like our Beginner instructors. They're not so far removed from that level of training that they don't know the power of praise and compliments. They can jolly up a discouraged beginner, because they remember how it was to be in their shoes. They don't poke fun at "stupid questions" - they were asking those same questions a few months ago! On the other hand, advanced competition classes are instructed by experienced handlers who have achieved titling success with different types or breeds of dogs. It's important to our competition handlers that they receive advice from someone who has seen a good bit of agility. More importantly, they need to be observed by someone with a keen eye to the dog's response to handling moves. These advanced competition instructors are students of the game, and long-time dog owners and trainers. Their students feel comfortable asking for advice at trials and know their instructor will always have time for their questions. At Dogwood, as at any training center, instructors are a priceless asset as they dedicate their time to helping students and building our community. Bud and I wish all our instructors a happy New Year in 0!! And we recognize they feel pressure to perform well in front of their students and peers. Anyone who has ever run their dog with a student watching knows the additional thought that goes into the performance, and the sickening feeling as we make the same mistake we've harped on in class. But, we love our instructors, and will always enjoy watching their performances, regardless of Qs. This is, after all, Just For Fun, Marsha JFF Agility Notebook Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

4 Foundation Training - Marsha Martin, Dogwood Training Center Administrator, dogwood@compuserve.com We're trying something new at Dogwood. We recognized a dog behavior - commonly known as the "zoomies " - and realized that it generally appears in Advanced Beginners class. The dogs, having graduated from Beginners, are given new freedom in more offlead sequences. They're realizing just how much fun agility can be, they're dragging their handlers into the building, and they're recognizing their doggie friends working on other equipment. These (usually) adolescent dogs leave a sequence and their begging handler to run at other dogs, doing any obstacle that comes in their path. They'll often join other dogs on the a-frame or in tunnels. They're generally disruptive and great fun to watch. They can intimidate small or timid dogs sharing floor space with them. Our general rule is that a dog can't advanced to Novice Competition class until it has outgrown the "zoomies," so - instead of recommending harsh corrections - we've instituted a -week attention training regimen to help Advanced Beginners achieve better success. This regimen also cements the relationship between handler and dog, and teaches first-time dog trainers some obedience basics. Our precept is this; the dog is rewarded for offering attention, and they teach us to feed them more and more often by giving us their attention signal. Fairly elemental dog training, right? But, to the first-time dog trainer in an Advanced Beginner agility class, it's a foreign language. This training is equally important to advanced handlers of "gifted" dogs who are faced with their second "challenged" dog. Four weeks of handouts are provided in this issue of the JFF Agility Notebook, and we'll be devoting - minutes in Advanced Beginner class to these exercises. I'd be delighted to get feedback from your Advanced Beginner instructors as to the usefulness of the exercises and handouts. (Send comments to me at dogwood@compuserve.com) The success of this training exercise rests on the handler's ability to pay attention to their dog. Again, an elemental dog training concept, but one that is new to first-time dog trainers. Their assumption is that their dog prefers them to nearly any distraction in the room. What they'll find, however, is that their attention to their dog is the most demanding part of the exercise - and the one that will provide them with the greatest satisfaction for years to come. In agility, we often talk about "keeping our connection with our dog." It's this connection that leads our dog from one obstacle to another. And it's the handler's responsibility. Hopefully, we'll be able to condition our Advanced Beginner handlers to build and maintain that connection. I'm looking forward to the results! Zoomies (zoomees) (v) a state of irrepressible joy manifested by the running of a continuous series of seemingly pointless but nonetheless high speed circles around, over and through numerous rooms and pieces of furniture. Seen most often in the Pudelhund breed of the Canidae mammal. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

5 Junior Handler Agility Training Manual Part Two in a Series Written by: Ruth Van Keuren With revisions by: Bud Houston Introducing the Obstacles Before introducing obstacles to the dog, it is important that the Junior Handler understand that dog agility is a game of relationship. The dog s trainer has a responsibility to engage the dog in agility completely as a game, and not as a chore that the dog is being commanded to perform. The relationship of dog and handler then is largely that of a partnership and a team. The handler has % of the responsibility for what happens when playing the game, and the dog has % of the responsibility. Each will do their share to do their own parts without ever blaming the other. The handler and trainer must be a partner to the dog, worth of the dog s love and respect. Agility training must be a positive experience for the dog. The dog s trainer must be upbeat and encouraging. The dog should never be punished and never be blamed. The dog s trainer should not have a vocabulary that includes words like No. Consequently our approach to introducing the obstacles to the dog is to never compel the dog. That means we never force the dog to do something. Instead, we find a way to allow the dog to choose his own footsteps, to think through a performance. Reward is the key to successful training. The dog s Junior Trainer is responsible for giving the dog a reward with every successful performance. Dog s are so clever about reward that if they are uniformly rewarded for a successful performance, they will happily volunteer the performance to earn the reward. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

6 Introducing the A-frame The A-frame will be set at about. Get everyone to load up with food. Put the dog over on the handler s right. Put the dog over on the handler s left. Please do not use any form of compulsion to get the dog over. Use a lure if necessary. Use a lot of praise and reward for each trip the dog takes over the A-frame. In this set put everyone twice over the A-Frame (set at ). Keep it light and happy. Remind students to give the dog a food treat at the bottom of the A- Frame in the hand closest to the dog. First two repetitions should be on-lead. Do not let students drag or pull the dog s leash. The leash is for control prior to going up, and after coming down. Introducing the bar jump Use only non-winged bar jumps for the introduction. The bars should be crossed in the jump standards, with one end in the 6 cup, and the other on the ground. The goal is to teach the dog to go between the jump standards as the handler shows the jump. Show your students how to square up your body as you show the jump to the dog. Don t turn sideways. The dog gets his direction cue from the set of the handler s shoulders. Face the jump and move directly alongside of it, showing the path the dog should work with the lead hand, the hand closest to the dog. As the handler passes alongside the standard, the dog goes over the jump. Remind your students to give the dog a food reward. The reward, both treat and praise for the dog, should be given immediately as the dog jumps the bar. The introduction to the jump should be done with the dog on lead.. Working with the dog on the handler s left, show the dog the jump.. Working the dog on the handler s right, show the dog the jump.. The handler leaves the dog in a sit or down stay and moves to the opposite side of the jump. The leash should drape over the jump bar. If the dog won t stay, you ll want to hold the dog while the handler moves.. Repeat steps through several times. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 6 January, 0

7 Introducing the Collapsed Tunnel This will be introduced in pretty much the same fashion as the pipe tunnel. The chute should be folded back initially so that it s only about / of its total length. You can add length to the chute as the class goes on and as the dogs demonstrate some confidence in performing the obstacle. Get the handler to go to the exit end and lift the fabric on the first repetition or two. Then you can switch sides so that the handler can present the obstacle to the dog. Hold the chute open for the dogs on the first pass through. Then allow the dogs to push open the fabric by themselves. H D D I This illustration shows the presentation method for the collapsed chute. The handler has taken up position at the end of the chute, and will hold the chute open to establish eye contact with the dog. The instructor holds the dog on leash. If the dog tries to duck left, or duck right, the instructor will check the dog s forward motion. If the dog volunteers to go through the tunnel, then the instructor lets the lead go slack. This is important for the dog s learning. No force is applied. The dog has to solve the riddle, and learns to approach this obstacle fearlessly. Introducing the Dogwalk We ll have the trainer dogwalk up, with the wide boards and the top set at about. Our methodology is never to compel the dog. The handler works over the dogwalk with the dog, using a food treat to lure if necessary. The handler should alternate working the dog on both left and right. A lot of praise and an immediate food reward at the bottom of the dogwalk will make the dog a lot more confident and willing to climb up over this obstacle. If a dog is refusing the dogwalk we can use a very effective technique for getting the dog to volunteer to walk up the ramp. The instructor should hold the dog s leash while the handler walks up the ramp to the center table, calling the dog after her. If the dog tries to go left or right around the ascent ramp the instructor will draw the dog up short at the end of the leash. If the dog volunteers to walk up, however, the instructor just lets him go. Do not pull on the dog s lead while he is walking up the ramp. That will make him very nervous. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 7 January, 0

8 Introducing the Long Jump/Spread Hurdle In Beginners class we combine the long jump and spread hurdle. The performance of each is essentially the same. The goal is to teach the dog to stretch in the jump as the handler shows the way. Show your students how to square up your body as you show the jump to the dog. Don t turn sideways. The dog gets his direction cue from the set of the handler s shoulders. Face the jump and move directly alongside of it, showing the path the dog should work with the lead hand, the hand closest to the dog. As the handler passes alongside the standard, the dog goes over the hurdle. The introduction to the jump should be done with the dog off-lead. Each presentation should have a slightly longer approach than might be necessary with a bar jump.. Working with the dog on the handler s left, show the dog the hurdle.. Working the dog on the handler s right, show the dog the hurdle.. The handler leaves the dog in a sit or down stay and moves to the opposite side of the jump. The leash should drape over the jump bar. If the dog won t stay, you ll want to hold the dog while the handler moves.. Repeat steps through several times. Introducing the Pipe Tunnel The pipe tunnel will be compressed so that it is only a short barrel-like, short and easy to see through to the other side. Our methodology is never to compel the dog. The instructor holds the dog s leash while the handler goes to the other side to call the dog through. If the dog tries to go right or go left, around the tunnel, you will check the dog s motion. If the dog volunteers to get to his human by going through the tunnel, then you will just let the leash slip through your fingers. On subsequent repetitions the handler should make the presentation of the pipe tunnel. The instructor will gradually add length to the tunnel by pulling it open. After the tunnel is at full length the instructor can add bend to the tunnel. This should be done only gradually, as the dogs confidence grows. Introducing the Collapsed Tunnel The chute of the collapsed tunnel should be folded back on itself so that the fabric chute is only about long. Our methodology is never to compel the dog. The instructor holds the dog s leash while the handler goes to the other side to lift the fabric and make a connection with the dog, and then call the dog through. If the dog tries to go right or go left, around the tunnel, you will check the dog s Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 8 January, 0

9 motion. If the dog volunteers to get to his human by going through the tunnel, then you will just let the leash slip through your fingers. On subsequent repetitions the handler should make the presentation of the collapsed tunnel while the instructor holds the fabric chute open. As the dog s confidence grows, gradually add length to the fabric chute, and begin dropping the chute on the dog earlier and earlier until the dog is pushing through the chute without anyone holding it open. Introducing the Table You might begin each group by having your students show you their down as a group. Have them down their dogs, go to the end of the leash, facing the dog. After a moment, have them return to their dogs. Exercised finish. Give them a pep talk about working the Down command at home. We re going to teach the Happy Table exercise. No harsh obedience-style downing of the dog will be allowed. Remember how this works. Put a treat in the fist. Put the dog up on the table. Put the fist down on the table, telling the dog Down! As soon as the dog gets down, open the fist. Dogs are very clever about this game. It should be upbeat and reward based. Introducing the Teeter We ll have the training seesaw out, with walls on either side so that the dog cannot bail off the side. We build the walls with two large cardboard boxes on either side of the teeter. Picket-style jump wings bridge the gap between the cardboard boxes. So this forms a bit of a canyon for the dog, and really doesn t give the dog anywhere to escape once he s committed to the perilous journey over the ramp. H D D D I Remember our methodology is never to compel the dog. On the introduction, the instructor will hold the dog s leash while the handler goes to the other side to call the dog over. If the dog tries to go right or go left, around the seesaw, you will check the dog s motion. If the dog volunteers to get to his human by going over the seesaw, then you will just let the leash slip through your fingers. You must control the descent of the board so that it doesn t drop suddenly, or with a bang. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 9 January, 0

10 Introducing the Tire Set the tire so that the bottom of the inside aperture is no more than 6 off the ground. The goal is to teach the dog to go through the aperture. Demonstrate for your students how to square up for the performance of the tire. Don t turn sideways to the dog. The dog gets his direction cues from the set of the handler s shoulders. Demonstrate a clear hand signal, using the hand closest to the dog, pushing towards the tire. Make sure your students reward and praise for the dog for each time he jumps through the tire. Dogs are reward motivated. You will control the dog s leash on the initial presentation of the tire. The handler should go to the opposite side and call the dog through. If the dog tries to duck left or right the instructor will stop the dog s progress. If the dog volunteers to get to his handler through the tire, then the instructor just allows the lead to slip through his hands. Once the dogs seem to have the idea of the tire you can let the handlers present the tire to the dog themselves. Put the dog through on the handler s right. Put the dog through on the handler s left. Leave the dog in a sit or a down stay, and call the dog through. Introducing the Weave Poles The weave poles will be fully wired. Tonight we are only going to only a few repetitions of this obstacle, a couple on the handler s right, and a couple on the handler s left. The dog must be on leash, with the handler s inside arm holding the leash or collar so that the dog can not jump over or duck under the wires. We do not want to compel the dog through the wires. We want the dog to pick his own footsteps. The dog can be lured with food to help him make those footsteps. Introducing a Winged Hurdle It is the nature of a wing that it puts a bit of distance between the dog and handler. Don t immediately assume that the dog will go over the bar rather than around the wing to be close to the handler. When introducing a winged hurdle the initial presentation should have the handler straddling the bar and luring the dog over the bar with the arm opposite the dog. Next, change the presentation so that the dog is left addressing the jump while the handler goes to the opposite side. Use a lure if necessary and call the dog straight over the center of the bar. This presentation should be made both on the dog s left and the dog s right. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

11 Teaching a Lead Out The rules for a lead-out are simple. Dogs are rules oriented. If we have rules for the performance, the dog learns. If we are inconsistent, changing or ignoring our own rules, then the dog has no basis from which learning can take place. So these are the rules. Tell the dog to sit, only once. Tell the dog to stay, only once. Then boldly walk away from the dog, keeping an over-the-shoulder eye on the dog. If the dog moves, immediately return to the dog and move him back to the place and position in which he was told to wait. Do not repeat the commands (either with a voice signal or a hand signal). Boldly walk away. If the dog moves return the dog to place and position. Walk away again. If he moves, return him to place and position. You should get the point by now. If the dog moves, you do not reward him for starting the team. You always put him back in position. These are the rules. There are also a couple rules for the handler. As the instructor you should be consistent in making these corrections. The handler should not lead out to a stop. The movement away from the dog establishes a line for the dog in a parallel path. The handler should also keep his shoulders square to the dog s path (shoulders aimed in the direction the dog is supposed to move). The handler should not stand or move with the shoulders faced perpendicular to the dog s path. The handler should especially avoid turning around to face the dog as in an obedience recall. This is completely counter-intuitive to the dog. Any of these counter-intuitive motions or postures could result in the dog running around the jump being presented in the lead-out. Beginning Sequencing Sequencing obstacles is where the fun really begins in agility. Sequencing means doing more than one obstacle at a time. Before you begin any sequencing, you should be sure that the dog has been properly introduced to the obstacles you want to include in the sequence, and performs those obstacles happily and confidently. Following are several sequencing exercises that are appropriate for a novice dog. These are simple sequences designed to allow the dog s confidence and skill to grow at a gentle pace. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

12 The Jumping Chute Set four jumps in a straight line with one side blocked by a fence or ring gates. These jumps should be set feet apart, and the lowest height for the dog. A dog smaller than about 6 at the withers should jump only 8. Larger dogs should jump no more than 6. A ground bar should be placed under each jump bar to aid the dog in measuring each jump. Figure Exercise While someone holds your dog, step over the first jump, turn, and call the dog, using a jump. Next, try two jumps. Continue to increase the number of jumps, one at a time, so long as the dog is succeeding in the exercise, until all four jumps have been completed. Exercise Leave the dog on a wait and walk around the jumps to a position alongside the last jump. Do not face the dog, but face away, looking back. Hold our your hand, on the side closest to the jump, to give the dog a visual target. Then call the dog to jump. Give the dog plenty of praise and love when he has jumped all four jumps. If the dog goes around any of the jumps, simplify the exercise by starting a jump closer to the dog. Do not correct the dog or say no to the dog. If the dog succeeds on the next try, go back to the fourth jump. If the dog runs around another jump, start even closer, by the second jump. You are leaving it to the clever dog to figure out what earns him praise and reward for doing the exercise. Note: If the dog does not have a steady wait, someone probably should hold the dog. But the Jr. handler should be advised to do a bit of work every day teaching the dog to wait. This is an important skill in dog agility. Exercise Leave your dog on a wait before the first jump, and walk to a position between jumps and. You should face in the direction the dog will be moving, looking back at your dog with your lead hand (hand closest to the dog) showing the way. Call your dog to jump the first jump. While the dog is moving alongside, move towards and past the second jump, and tell your dog to go jump. As quick as the dog gets over the jump, turn the dog out of the jumping chute and give praise and a reward. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

13 Repeat this exercise by calling your dog over two jumps and running with him over the third jump. Then call your dog over three jumps, and run with him over the fourth. Change the exercise by calling the dog over three jumps, and running with him over the last. Then, call him over two jumps, and run with him over two. The call him over the first jump, and run with him over all three of the remaining jumps. Exercise Start with your dog, giving the jump command as you run. If the dog comes out of the jumping chute, toward you, just put him back in, telling him to go on and jump. You could use jumps without wings to make it somewhat easier for the dog. Your dog will show his understanding of this exercise by focusing on the jump ahead. It is important to insure that the handler is giving both a timely verbal command and showing a lead hand for each jump. Exercise Leave your dog on a wait and take a toy to beyond the last jump. Show it to the dog. Then drop the toy on the ground. This gives the dog an object to target on. Then return to your dog. Release him to go jump. Let your dog take off and get the toy. Play a game of tug with him as he returns with the toy. Treat yourself and your dog to a four-day agility and games vacation in rural Ohio. These unique weekday camps are limited in size -- everyone gets personal attention from one of America s favorite agility trainers. Camp Dogwood an intimate agility experience ( campers only) Camp fee only $0 / Instructors Camp is $60 ($0 deposit required); Auditors $ Contact Marsha Martin at 878 Slocum Road, Ostrander, OH 6 (7) dogwood@compuserve.com Novice Camps Mar 6 to Mar 9, 0 Mar to Mar, 0 Jun to Jun 8, 0 July to July 6, 0 Sept 7 to Sept, 0 Nov 6 to Nov 9, 0 Nov 6 to Nov 9, 0 Advanced Camps June 9 to June, 0 (full) Aug to Aug 6, 0 Oct to Oct, 0 Other Camps Instructors Apr 6 to Apr 9, 0 (full) Masters July to July 6, 0 Instructors Aug 7 to Aug, 0 Distance Oct to Oct 8, 0 Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

14 Jump V7 All-PVC construction by Kurt L. Glaub Construction Plans Jump Version 7, All PVC construction This is a quickie PVC jump, inexpensive, easy to make, and assembles together very quickly. When combined with an adjustable jump cup is very handy. Five or more sets will easily fit into the trunk of a compact car for quick transport. Materials for All PVC Jump Material Description Amount required schedule PVC pipe lengths long ells 8 pieces tees pieces jump cups and screws sets long pvc 6 Pieces.7 long pvc pieces 6 long pvc pieces Instructions. Cut one length of PVC pipe into two pieces 6 long and four pieces long as shown below Cut one length of PVC pipe into two pieces long and four pieces ¾ long as shown below. There will be a piece left over about 78 long. ¾ Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

15 Instructions. Using two of the ¾ pieces, one of the tees and one of the 6 pieces, make a T shaped piece as shown below. These are not glued because I like to be able to take the jumps apart. Also, with this design, leaving the pieces unglued allows for the jump to conform to uneven terrain. In addition, some Tees have different size steps on the inside and the ¾ pieces may need adjustment.. Using eight Ells and four of the pieces, make four C shaped piece as shown below.. Using the remaining piece, one of the C shapes and one of the T shaped pieces shape the upright as shown below.. Using the remaining C shape and the upright from step above, complete the upright as shown below.. Attach jump cups and jump is ready to go. The upright can be folded to 90 degrees and the corners of the base can be stepped on when setting up to enable to jump to conform to uneven terrain. Jump cups --Version for use with PVC jump bars This design is one that has been around for a long time and is seen frequently. Once you are set up, these are easy and quick to make. Materials for Jump Cups ¾ PVC cap with flat end makes jump cups Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page January, 0

16 Tools Required Saw Drill /8 Drill bit Instructions. Cut each cap into pieces as shown below. To simplify holding the pieces I have made a simple holding fixture from scrap lumber as shown below. Piece of scrap stock ½ thick through which a hole is drilled deep. After drilling, the stock is cut lengthwise. To one half, two more pieces of scrap are attached to form a saw guide as shown. The two pieces are held together with a clamp to hold the caps while cutting. This cuts the caps in half. As the loose piece to cut the half pieces into pieces as shown in the bottom sketch. After cutting each ¼ piece of the cap is drilled with a /8 drilled to provide a screw hole as shown below. /8 hole for screw Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 6 January, 0

17 Training Plans for the Agility Center by Bud Houston This Month s Notebook The magazine this month is so large it s almost embarrassing. While our goal is to publish about 80 pages a month, this edition is likely to come in around 0 pages or more. But we can t help it. We have a lot of publishing projects planned, and the Notebook is the vehicle to get them published. -H Obedience and Agility I had a young girl show up in a beginners class a couple weeks ago, who boldly and somewhat proudly announced to me that obedience is all about corrections and popping on the leash. Lordy mercy! This young lady is really going to be a project. The timing of this young lady s entry into my training center coincides with a significant initiative that we will be undertaking over the next few months. It is our intention to exert a positive influence on the world of -H training for both obedience and agility. -H is a grass roots organization that relies to on great extent on the volunteer efforts of thousands of community leaders who run autonomous programs. Dog training is a popular -H program across the country. The big problem is that many of the volunteer leaders don t have significant experience with dog training. So they rely on old texts heavily influenced by Koehler and other dog trainers whose training philosophies involve a great deal of aversive and harsh correction to dogs. It s time to rewrite the book. Class Handouts With this issue of the Notebook we will begin publishing the class handouts for Beginners and Advanced Beginners classes. The focus of the handouts are skills that can be taught and games that can be played at home with the dog that will enhance the weekly curriculum in the agility training center. Future handouts will be special topics intended for students in more advanced classes. These will focus on problem areas like contact training, motivation, handler movements and so forth. We d like to compile a complete library of work-at-home references that help the serious dog agility trainer solve problems on their own. A number of people have contributed to this effort. I d repeat my call for contributions by those of you who have already developed handouts for your students. Everyone who contributes will get a complete and free copy of the finished handout library. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 7 January, 0

18 Looking to the Year Ahead In the early days at Dogwood our student roster was built mainly from more advanced students who came to us from the other training centers. Some of them had left those training centers because of politics and strife. Others came because our training philosophies were more positively based. Some came because they didn t like jumping their dogs constantly on concrete surfaces or, in the case of another club, didn t like the dusty dirty environment they had to train in. Some came to Dogwood simply because we are closer to them. In the beginning, I took a hands-off attitude with these advanced students, allowing them pretty much to honor their own training methods. Mine was the voice in the background that suggested to them to try this or try that if what they were doing wasn t working. The training center has changed in many ways. We ve grown quite a lot. Much of this growth has come from the Beginners program. These students have never trained anywhere else. I ve added a lot of new training equipment, including a brand-spanking new fully-adjustable dogwalk built by our own columnist of the Construction Plan, Kurt L. Glaub (for a very reasonable price!) In 0 we ll be training with new attitude. Our lesson plans will have a lot more special topic work, like distance, contact training, working for speed, and so forth. AKC Herding Advisory Committee The AKC has formed the Herding Advisory Committee There is one delegate to this committee from each of the parent clubs for breeds that compete in the AKC Herding Program. This delegate will be posting activities of the committee within their breed's circle. The committee s job is to canvass the herding community for suggestions, changes or other recommendations to help the AKC Herding Program improve. To this end the 00-0 AKC Herding Advisory Committee has organized a Suggestion List to accept suggestions and input from everyone who participates in AKC Herding, including those who may not belong or participate in a breed club. This list is an incoming list only, not a discussion list. You do not subscribe to post to the list! Send your suggestions directly to AKCHerdingsuggestions@egroups.com and cc to Ledell Pendarvis at lrp@akc.org as directed by AKC. The Herding Advisory Committee Delegates will receive your suggestions either as direct s, digests or in the archives, and from the AKC in whatever form they submit it to us. The general public and fancy can post their suggestions, including attachments, and they can be viewed by anyone in the archives which are open to the public at Periodically the Herding Advisory Committee will post agenda items for comments so check this list often. Later polls will be taken from this source. We hope this process will make it possible for everyone to stay up with the latest developments and increase communication amongst the fancy during this process. Just For Fun Agility Notebook Page 8 January, 0

19 Week Gamblers E S D A B C S Briefing You ll have seconds in the point accumulation period. Obstacles can only be performed twice for points. It s okay to take gamble obstacles in sequence so long as they aren t taken in the direction of the gamble. We ll be using a ---7 system for scoring point accumulation. Jumps point Tunnels and Tire points A-frame, teeter and weave poles points Three gambles (distance challenges) are included on the course. Successful completion of each is required for a qualifying score. Each gamble will have seconds to complete. Novice gamble (black numbers) Intermediate gamble (white numbers) refusals faulted on the teeter Superior gamble (white alpha) refusals faulted on all obstacles Marking Your JFF Dance Cards You need 8 points in the opening period, and successful completion of the gamble of your choice to qualify. Mark your JFF Dance Cards for the level of the gamble you selected. JFF Notebook Week One Page 9 December, 00

20 Beginners Class Plan Week One This is the first night of Beginners class. Begin with introduction and the usual discussion of house rules. Urge everyone to make every attempt to attend every class. Graduation from this class requires dogs to be introduced to all obstacles. If a student misses more than one class he will be behind other dogs. Instructors should approve a dog moving up to the next class. A dog that doesn t come to class each week is unlikely to be ready. We are a positive and reward-based training center. We will discourage harsh or emotional corrections. Students should always bring plenty of food treats to class, and the dog s favorite toy. It wouldn t hurt a bit to also bring a slightly hungry dog so that they will be keen to earn the reward. We reward dogs for performance. That s how they learn. We encourage giving reward to dogs for attention. The dog needs to learn that he s getting the reward for working on the agility equipment, and for paying attention. On the other hand, we discourage giving treats to the dog mindlessly, like a perpetual food machine that cheapens the food treat. The dog must want to offer performance and behavior to earn the reward. Call everyone s attention to the location of the porta-john Everybody is responsible for cleaning up after their own dogs. Show where the clean-up materials are both for outside and inside. Dogs are not allowed off-lead unless they are working in an exercise. At the end of class a homework assignment will be handed out every week. Note that doing the homework will help dogs do better in this class. Control Exercise Before beginning to actually put dogs up on equipment get all of your students to spread out around the room with their dogs on lead. Ask them to sit their dogs, tell the dogs to stay, and then go out in front of the dogs to the end of the lead, facing the dogs. After about seconds allow them to return to their dogs, and release. Do the same exercise with a down. You will discover in this exercise which dogs need more work with these basic obedience exercises. Point out to everyone that the homework assignment they receive this week will include a training plan for sit and down stays. They ll want to make the effort to work with their dogs on these basic skills. Handouts Make sure to give all your students a copy of this week s handout and homework assignments. Talk to them briefly about the handouts. It s important that your students understand that their agility career will always improve with work they do at home. JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

21 Set A Set B Set C Set B In this set you will do no sequencing with dogs. The intention tonight is only to give the dog an introduction to the three obstacles in your working set: The pipe tunnel, dogwalk, and table. Ignore the other obstacles in close proximity to your working set, and don t allow your students to put their dogs up on obstacles you have not taught them. Introducing the Pipe Tunnel All of the training sets include pipe tunnels. Your first group will be introduced to the pipe tunnel. Other groups that you get will already have been introduced. Change the length and bend of the tunnel to be slightly more challenging for each group. Shorten the tunnel and take the bend out if dogs aren t getting it. Our methodology is never to compel the dog. The instructor holds the dog s leash while the handler goes to the other side to call the dog through. If the dog tries to go right or go left, around the tunnel, you will check the dog s motion. If the dog volunteers to get to his human by going through the tunnel, then you will just let the leash slip through your fingers. Introducing the Dogwalk We ll have the trainer dogwalk up, with the wide boards and the top set at about. Our methodology is never to compel the dog. The handler works over the dogwalk with the dog, using a food treat to lure if necessary. The handler should alternate working the dog on both left and right. A lot of praise and an immediate food reward at the bottom of the dogwalk will make the dog a lot more confident and willing to climb up over this obstacle. JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

22 If a dog is refusing the dogwalk we can use a very effective technique for getting the dog to volunteer to walk up the ramp. The instructor should hold the dog s leash while the handler walks up the ramp to the center table, calling the dog after her. If the dog tries to go left or right around the ascent ramp the instructor will draw the dog up short at the end of the leash. If the dog volunteers to walk up, however, the instructor just lets him go. Do not pull on the dog s lead while he is walking up the ramp. That will make him very nervous. Introducing the Table You might begin each group by having your students show you their down as a group. Have them down their dogs, go to the end of the leash, facing the dog. After a moment, have them return to their dogs. Exercised finish. Give them a pep talk about working the Down command at home. We re going to teach the Happy Table exercise. No harsh obedience-style downing of the dog will be allowed. Remember how this works. Put a treat in the fist. Put the dog up on the table. Put the fist down on the table, telling the dog Down! As soon as the dog gets down, open the fist. Dogs are very clever about this game. It should be upbeat and reward based. Set C In this set you will do no sequencing with dogs. The intention tonight is only to give the dog an introduction to the three obstacles in your working set: The A-frame, collapsed tunnel, and weave poles. Ignore the other obstacles in close proximity to your working set, and don t allow your students to put their dogs up on obstacles you have not taught them. Introducing the A-frame The A-frame will be set at about. Get everyone to load up with food. Put the dog over on the handler s right. Put the dog over on the handler s left. Please do not use any form of compulsion to get the dog over. Use a lure if necessary. Use a lot of praise and reward for each trip the dog takes over the A-frame. Introducing the Collapsed Tunnel This will be introduced in pretty much the same fashion as the pipe tunnel. The chute should be folded back initially so that it s only about / of its total length. You can add length to the chute as the class goes on and as the dogs demonstrate some confidence in performing the obstacle. Get the handler to go to the exit end and lift the fabric on the first repetition or two. Then you can switch sides so that the handler can present the obstacle to the dog. Hold the chute open for the dogs on the first pass through. Then allow the dogs to push open the fabric by themselves. JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

23 H D D I This illustration shows the presentation method for the collapsed chute. The handler has taken up position at the end of the chute, and will hold the chute open to establish eye contact with the dog. The instructor holds the dog on leash. If the dog tries to duck left, or duck right, the instructor will check the dog s forward motion. If the dog volunteers to go through the tunnel, then the instructor lets the lead go slack. This is important for the dog s learning. No force is applied. The dog has to solve the riddle, and learns to approach this obstacle fearlessly. Introducing the Weave Poles The weave poles will be fully wired. Tonight we are only going to only a few repetitions of this obstacle, a couple on the handler s right, and a couple on the handler s left. The dog must be on leash, with the handler s inside arm holding the leash or collar so that the dog can not jump over or duck under the wires. We do not want to compel the dog through the wires. We want the dog to pick his own footsteps. The dog can be lured with food to help him make those footsteps. our method for making a credit card order: The Just For Fun Agility Notebook is available by direct subscription only. To subscribe, send $ (US funds) to: Dogwood Training Center, LLC 878 Slocum Road Ostrander, OH 6 Include in your correspondence your address and the month in which you'd like your subscription to begin. Your name and address will be added to an Internetbased subscription list from which you can download individual issues of the magazine at your leisure. We also take Visa and Mastercard payments for the Notebook. Please follow. your credit card number in two *separate* s. to thwart cyber-thieves. Send the order to "Dogwood Training Center" dogwood@compuserve.com.. In the first send your name, as it appears on the card, and the first two blocks of digits on your card.. In the second send the second two blocks of digits on your card, and the expiration date of your card.. When we have the two halves of your credit card put together we will send you back a confirmation number. You should retain this number in your records to reference the transaction.. Indicate on your correspondence your name, the address to which the subscription will go. JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

24 Beginning Your Agility Career Welcome to Dogwood Training Center. Tonight you begin training a dog for the sport of dog agility. Our goal in the next eight weeks will be to introduce your dog to all of the obstacles. In this session we intend to teach your dog to be happy and confident in the performance of all of the obstacles. To that end we use a no compulsives philosophy. That means we do not push, pull, drag, or throw our dogs through any performance. Instead, we concentrate on teaching them to choose their own footsteps and to think about what they are doing. At Dogwood we believe in the application of reward for performance. That means that we avoid the use of harsh corrections or negatives. Training negatively often results in a training a dog to play with no joy, or not wanting to play at all. Years of experience have taught us that enthusiastic praise, a food reward, or a game with a toy are great training tools. They are the only training tools. The Agility Handler Dog agility is a team sport. It is not just a matter of training the dog. The handler must also be trained. You ll quickly find out that the training at Dogwood emphasizes the handler s role in the sport. Handler s Motion Your dog keys more on visual cues than on verbal. The handler most effectively communicates direction and motion to the dog by facing and moving in the positive direction of the course. Always move towards the obstacle that must next be performed until the dog has committed to it. This motion is supported by a verbal (see Commands, below), and a hand signal. Lead Hand The hand signal is a matter simply of pointing to the obstacle you want the dog to perform, or the place you want the dog to be. Always use the hand closer to the dog and the obstacle. Using the opposite arm causes your shoulders to face in a direction other than the direction the dog should be moving. Verbalizing Reduce the noise your dog must listen to when performing. For example, you don t need to use your dog s name before every command. In general, it is not necessary to blather at your dog. Keep your working conversation to a minimum, saying just enough to motivate and direct your dog. It is better to be upbeat and enthusiastic with your dog than not. Your dog will be sensitive to you getting angry or flustered or frustrated during a training session. It is your job to keep the dog happy. When your dog piles into the car to go to agility class, you want to see him excited and enthusiastic and knowing that he s getting ready to have the must fun in the whole world and there should be no one in the world he d rather do it with than you! JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

25 Commands The handler is responsible for three things when a dog is working: ) to tell the dog which obstacles must be performed, ) to tell the dog which direction to move, and ) to hold the dog in a control position when necessary. Do not say the name of an obstacle until your dog is pointed towards that obstacle. Your job is to make your dog s nose point where it is you want him to go. Where the dog s nose goes, the rest of the dog tends to follow. Obstacle Commands Obstacle Jumps Tire Weave Poles Pipe Tunnel Collapsed Tunnel A-frame Teeter Dogwalk Commands Jump, Hup, Over, Up Tire (or, just give the same command as for a jump) Weave Tunnel, Through, Get In Chute, Creep, (or, just give the same command as for a pipe tunnel) A-Frame, Climb, Walk-Up, Scramble Teeter, Climb, Walk-Up Climb, Walk-Up, Dogwalk Table Table, Up, Box Note: Commands favored by your teachers are in bold Control Commands Command Sit Down Stay Easy Meaning Assume a sit position Assume a down position Remain in position, without moving Slow down, and exercise caution in the current task. This command is typically used on contact obstacles to slow the dog s descent into the yellow contact zones. Directional Commands Command Come Turn Go On Get Out Left Right Meaning Turn (towards me) Turn (away from me) Continue moving in a straight line Increase lateral distance (move in the oblique) Turn Left Turn Right Back Turn Back (80 ) JFF Notebook Week One Page December, 00

26 About Dogwood Training Center Dogwood Training Center operates months of the year, six days a week providing instruction in the sport of Dog Agility. This is a family community of dog agility enthusiasts. Dogwood s web page is at You can contact Marsha Martin by at dogwood@compuserve.com. You can contact Bud Houston by at dogwood@compuserve.com. Our phone number is We also maintain a discussion and communication list for our agility community. If you have a computer and Internet access, you can subscribe to the discussion list at Facility Dogwood Training Center is located at 878 Slocum Road, Ostrander, OH 6. The site is fully fenced grassy acres. Part of the year we train outside. When it s necessary to work inside, we work in our 60 x 90 training floor. The surface of the floor is /" rubber on packed dirt; the most forgiving surface in dog agility. The training floor is adjoined by a x observation room that is fully heated and air conditioned. Agility Classes and League Play Dogwood provides classes for four levels of agility dog and handler training: Beginners; Advanced Beginners; Novice; and Competition. It is our intention that dogs progress through the classes at their own pace. Moving up too quickly can result in a dog who shuts down by being confronted with challenges for which he is not prepared. This is never desirable. Dogwood is the home of the longest running agility league in the United States. Leagues last two months. We play a new game every week. Dues for participation in League are nominal. Only Novice and Competition class students are eligible for League Play. Camp Dogwood Dogwood is the site for fourteen agility camps ever year. Enthusiasts from all over the country come here to refine their handling skills. The camps include Novice, Advanced, Masters, Distance, and Instructors. Just For Fun Agility Notebook The Dogwood lesson plan appears in publication form in the pages of the Just For Fun Agility Notebook, an electronic only monthly magazine dedicated to agility training, edited by Marsha Martin and Bud Houston. The Notebook costs $ a year. To subscribe to the Notebook contact either Bud or Marsha. Private Training and Facility Rental Throughout the year we schedule private and semi-private training sessions. Our facilities are available for unsupervised work throughout the year. Ongoing students of Dogwood get reduced rates for privates and facility rental. JFF Notebook Week One Page 6 December, 00