MIDWEST RABBIT RESCUE & RE-HOME ADOPTION MANUAL

Transcription

1 MIDWEST RABBIT RESCUE & RE-HOME Rescue and Adoption Center 882 North Holbrook Plymouth, Michigan Mailing Address 2232 South Main Street, Box 536 Ann Arbor, Michigan

2 Getting to Know Your New Bunny Congratulations on your new rabbit. You have an intelligent, social, curious and fun companion. This manual will provide you with an understanding of your rabbit, and how to care for him or her. By understanding your rabbit s nature you will understand how to best interact with him. Your satisfaction and enjoyment of your bunny will be increased immeasurably, and you ll be providing him with a wonderful life. This manual is intended to give you the basic information you need to get started with your bunny. The section entitled Other Resources lists online resources you can consult to deepen your understanding of the care and health of your rabbit. Rabbits are prey animals. This shapes just about everything in their lives. Understanding the implications of this takes you a long way to understanding your bunny. Rabbits are shy until they learn to trust you and their environment. Once he does, he ll enjoy interacting with you. But at first, you need to give him time and space to learn that you are safe. Sit on the floor and let him come up to you - don t reach for him and avoid picking him up. From his point of view, someone reaching for him, children running after him or someone grabbing hold of him feels like he has been caught. It s in his nature that being caught is a bad thing. So, take it slow and gentle while he gets to know you. It will speed up the process of his learning to trust you. We recommend that for the first few weeks you restrict your new bunny to his pen (if you are using one) and a limited exercise area, preferably immediately outside his pen so he doesn t need to be carried to the exercise area. Let the pen be his sanctuary - a place where he knows he can go and be left alone. Let him come out of the pen into the exercise area on his own. You can sit in the exercise pen with him. Let him come up to you. Give him a little treat, such as a raisin, small piece of apple or banana. Hold the treat out to him in the flat of your hand. He ll learn that despite the fact that you are huge and smell funny, you are a good person! (Don t over-do it will the treats, however! A very small amount of fruit each day is all he can handle.) Sit with him this way when you are reading or watching television. You ll be able to tell when he s getting comfortable with you. Once he is, you can remove the exercise pen and let him explore more of the house. Many children want to hold and cuddle your new rabbit. They re so cute, after all. However, many rabbits aren t going to enjoy being held, especially when they don t know you. You ll need to teach your children to be gentle and patient with your bunny. Housing for Your Rabbit One of the most important things you will do for your rabbit is establish suitable housing for him. You will make your lives together more harmonious if you establish something that works for both of you. One of the most difficult aspects of sharing your home with a rabbit is that they chew. It s one way that they explore the world. So, you need to bunny proof the rooms in which he will live and exercise. Rabbits are very fond of electrical cords and can be very badly hurt or killed if they chew on them. There are three basic strategies to use: cover the cord with thick plastic tubing, slit along it s length and slipped over the cord, (available in the plumbing section of hardware stores) or similar material; block access to the cord (but bunnies are quite good at getting past barriers); and remove/relocate the cord. Do not assume that you can train your bunny not to chew on cords. Some plants are unhealthy or even poisonous to rabbits (see list in following section), so you ll also need to prevent your bunny from getting to them. Some rabbits will also chew on baseboards, furniture and carpeting. This is especially true when they are initially exploring a new environment. If you have something you want to be absolutely sure won t be sampled by your Bunny Proofing Electrical Cords Version 2.1% Page 2

3 bunny, put it somewhere where he can not get to it. The best way to deal with your bunnies tendency to chew on your belongings is to give him plenty of alternatives that are more satisfying to him. These need not cost much money; in fact, most of the toys and treats sold in pet stores for bunnies are either not healthy for them, or not very interesting to them. Some of the chew toys that are popular with rabbits are listed below. Try enough of them to determine what your bunny likes. (See the section Other Resources for online sources of some of these items.) Willow and wicker baskets - untreated. Books - hardbound, paperback, phone books. Untreated wood. Tree branches - Apple, willow, weeping willow and maple are favorites. Make sure the tree has not been treated with pesticides. Corrugated cardboard hidey houses. Plastic whiffle balls, with and without jingly bells. Cardboard boxes or rolls. Stuff them with hay to make them more interesting. Your rabbit will like places with a low ceiling and places where he can hide. A large corrugated cardboard box, with a hole at each end - a hidey house - will likely be a hit. He ll probably enjoy hanging out in it and tearing at the cardboard as well. Pen or Cage Rabbits can have free roam of a house or set of rooms. But many people utilize a pen or cage. Doing so requires that your bunny be outside the pen or cage for exercise, so you ll still need to bunny-proof the room used for that purpose. If you are using a pen or cage, the best solution is to put the pen in the room used for exercise. The pen contains the litter box, hay and water, and serves to contain any associated messiness. The pen door remains open much of the time, so the bunny comes and goes as he pleases. But the rabbit can be confined to the pen when need be. Rabbits don t do well in the heat, so make sure the pen isn t in direct sunlight. Pens are generally preferable to cages. They can be larger, they are much easier to clean, and usually are less expensive. A primary requirement is space - lots of space. There needs to be sufficient room for the litter box, hay, water bowl and a hidey house, as well as for him to hop around a bit and lay down and stretch out. Most cages are too small to be suitable for a rabbit. Many pet stores sell cages for rabbits and even bunny starter kits. Most are not large enough for a rabbit. The intention behind many of these products is to induce customers to obtain a pet; that way the store will be able to sell you products for the life of the animal. It is in their interest to make it appear that the care and the housing of the pet will be minimal. This strategy is particularly prevalent with smaller animals, including rabbits. Inappropriate For Any Size Rabbit Flexible storage cubes can be used to make a good pen. The individual pieces are assembled to make the sides and top (if necessary) of the pen; hold the pieces together with electrical cord zip ties. They can be purchased at stores such as Target, Meijers, Home Depot, Bed, Bath and Beyond and the like. Look in the home organizer section. Doorways to the bunnies room can be easily blocked with child-gates or sections of the storage organizing cubes, which can be readily stored when not in use. Exercise pens, available at pet supply stores, can be used to make a permanent pen for a rabbit. They can also be used to establish an exercise area outside the permanent pen, if Storage Cubes Can Be Turned Into Great Pens Version 2.1% Page 3

4 you wish to restrict your rabbit to a portion of the exercise room. A piece of carpeting can be used underneath the pen; indoor-outdoor with rubber backing makes a good choice. This can protect the underlying carpeting or flooring and make cleanup easier. A piece of cardboard or linoleum can also serve as the bottom of the pen. Large dog cages can be used for small rabbits. The cage bottom must not be wire! A wire bottom cage will result in sore hocks on your bunnies feet. These are very painful and can lead to infections. However, many rabbits are too large for even a large dog cage. Much of the room in the cage will be taken up by the litter box, water bowl and other items. Your bunny needs to be able to hop around quite a bit, and also to stretch out. Remember, he s probably going to be spending a lot of time in the pen or cage. You need to give him enough space for his physical and emotional needs. The following websites have good information about pens: How To Build An Indoor Bunny Pen% Build a Rabbit Condo% breyfamily.net/bunnycage.html How to Make A Pen% This site describes pens for guinea pigs, but if you add a second row to make the pen higher, they work great for rabbits. Version 2.1% Page 4

5 Exercise Rabbits need plenty of exercise. Their personality will come out the more they are allowed to exercise and explore. Furthermore, their intestinal system needs the motion of hopping in order to function properly. A rabbit that is not sufficiently active has a good chance of developing stasis - a kind of shutting down of the digestive system that can be fatal. (See Health section for more information.) Place the rabbit s pen in a room you frequently use, so that when he is exercising he can interact with you. He ll like the stimulation your activities provide. A room where you read or watch television can make a good room for your rabbit. Some bunnies hop up on the couch to be with you when you are reading or watching. Your rabbits time outside his pen is essential to his good health. So it is essential that you provide him several hours a day outside his pen. A rule of thumb is that the smaller the pen, the more time he ll need outside of it to get sufficient exercise and stimulation. Give your bunny run time when he or she is most likely to be active - usually early in the morning and later in the evening. Make that free time count! Rabbits will be active throughout the night. Once you are comfortable with him in the bunny-proof room, leave his pen door open all night long. He ll get lots of extra exercise while you are sleeping! Also provide plenty of toys (see the section Housing above for specific suggestions.) You want him to have several things to play with (chew) so that he doesn t become bored with the same old thing. Every once in a while, give him something new. Be sure to try lots of different types of toys so you learn what he likes, and he has plenty of variety to keep him engaged. Its good for his mind as well as his body. Rabbits will normally be active for a relatively short period of time, then take a short break. The break can consist of sitting quietly, grooming or laying down. After the break, he ll be active again. The cycle will repeat itself. So, if your bunny is exercising and takes a break, it doesn t mean he is done exercising and needs to go back to his pen. Keep Your Rabbit Cool Rabbits tolerate the cold very well. However, they don t tolerate the heat so well. If your bunny is exposed to high temperatures (over 85 degrees or so), you can take a few steps to make him comfortable. Rabbits with long hair will be adversely effected by the heat at lower temperatures, 80 degrees or even 75 degrees. Keep an eye on your bunny to make sure he isn t suffering in hot temperatures. Version 2.1% Page 5

6 Place a frozen bottle of water in his pen or other location he frequents; you can cover it with a towel or sock. You can purchase ice packs or bottles intended for keeping coolers cold - they will last longer than water. In any event, make it large and replace it as necessary. Many rabbits lay right against it to cool themselves. Put ice cubes in his water bowl. Give him vegetables that are very wet with water, to help keep him hydrated. Put a fan in the room containing his pen, but don t point it directly at the pen. Make sure his pen is not in sunlight. If your rabbit becomes overheated he can develop heat stroke. Symptoms include labored breathing, panting, flaring of the nostrils, distress or disorientation or, in some cases, convulsions. Heat stroke can lead to death and requires treatment. Mist his ears with cool water. Never put your rabbit into cold water or run him under cold water; the sudden change in temperature can kill him, and in any event, the process will only add to his stress. Take him to his veterinarian for treatment. Outside or Inside Domestic rabbits should live and exercise inside the house. Rabbits that live inside become part of the family. Furthermore, rabbits that live outside are susceptible to ticks, flees, fur mites and predators. Predators will be very determined to get at a rabbit; and the rabbit will be terrified while it is doing so. A rabbit should not be taken outside for exercise or play time. Your rabbit can pick up ticks, flees or fur mites very quickly. These parasites can do a lot of damage before you notice them. Your rabbit can be attached by a predator, even if in an enclosed cage. Even if the predator can not physically get to your rabbit, your bunny will be very exposed and terrified during the attack. Your rabbit can be given plenty of exercise, stimulation and fun with the proper environment inside your house. There is no need to supplement that by putting him outside. Picking Up Your Rabbit Never, ever, pick up your rabbit by his ears or scruff of his neck. You ll hurt him and can do permanent damage. You want your bunny to be well supported and held firmly, which helps him feel safe. The position in which you ll hold and carry your rabbit is with his side against your chest, pointed towards the left, with your right hand around his front shoulders Alternate and your left arm and hand supporting his underside and hind feet. (If you are left handed, reverse these instructions for left and right.) In this way, if he struggles, you have a good hold of him. Hold him firmly enough so that he knows he won t fall. Now, to get him into this position! Approach him calmly and slowly. Stroke his head or back a bit. Then, put your hands around his front shoulders. Lift him up and against your chest and, once he is there, slide your left hand down to support his hind feet, with his underside resting on your left arm. Keep your right hand on his front shoulders and your right arm against his body, pressing in slightly. In this way, if he struggles, you have a good hold of him. Version 2.1% Page 6

7 An alternative to holding him with his side against your chest is to have his underside against your chest, while you have one hand supporting his hind feet and one hand around his front shoulders. Some people find this an easier, especially with large bunnies. He won t like being held in the air as it will feel unsafe to him. So, prior to picking him up, get down as close to him as you can, to minimize the amount of time he is in the air. Likewise, when you put him down, don t hold him out in front of you in both of your hands, with him facing away from you. From his perspective, he s just facing open air in front of him and will feel very vulnerable. Get down as low as you can and move him down from your chest, but don t rotate his body away from yours. Keep a firm grip on his front shoulders and your left arm supporting him for as long as you can. If your bunny struggles when you are picking him up, it s not unusual that you end up with your hands around his middle or hind portion. Don t increase the pressure of your grip in an attempt to restrain him. It is easy to damage your rabbits back or hind skeletal structure. His bones are actually quite delicate as nature has built him for speed, so his bones are light and fragile. So, if he slips in your hands from the position you want, it s frequently better to just let him go and try again. If he keeps running away from you, look where he his headed and reach your hands in front of him. Frequently your hands will get there when he does and you can catch him at his front shoulders, which is the easiest and safest way to stop him. If he is in his pen that has a top or a cage, you ll need to first get him outside of it. The best way is to open the door and let him come out on his own. If you need to remove him from the cage, it s usually best to do so hind end first. Put your hands around his front shoulders and middle section area. Lift him as little as possible and bring him through the door - hind end first. If he struggles too much, or he slips forward so that your hands are around only his middle or hind end, it s usually better to let him go and try again. If that happens, gently pet him and talk reassuringly to him, then try again. Food Your bunny has simple dietary requirements: unlimited timothy hay, a small portion of timothy pellets each day and some green vegetables each day. Of course, unlimited, fresh water should be provided. This diet is simple but yet very healthy for your bunny. You can give him a few treats each day, but only very small amounts. Hay Fresh timothy hay is the most important part of a rabbit s diet. It both conditions the gut for proper digestion and the long fibers help keep the intestinal tract clear of obstructions. Chewing the hay helps grind your rabbits teeth (which grow throughout his life) and keep them healthy. Other grass hays can be given for variety, but most rabbits prefer timothy hay over other grass hays. Your rabbit should have unlimited amounts of timothy hay. If you see his hay supply is running low, fill it up again. He will eat it throughout the day. Wild rabbits eat grass, which is, in its dry form, simply hay. In addition to the invaluable fiber it contains, hay also provides vitamins, minerals, and protein in a form the rabbit's digestive tract can handle. Young rabbits, less than six months of age, can be fed alfalfa hay rather than timothy hay. Alfalfa hay is higher in protein and calcium and lower in fiber than timothy hay. This is acceptable, even desirable, in young, rapidly developing rabbits. But alfalfa hay is unhealthy for adult rabbits. Rabbits between the ages of seven months and a year should be transitioned to timothy hay. Rabbits will prefer alfalfa hay, so during the transition you may need to mix the two types of hay. In some cases, a rabbit may rebel and not eat the timothy hay. However, if the pellets and vegetables are being given in appropriate (limited) amounts, he ll eventually become hungry and eat the timothy hay. Version 2.1% Page 7

8 (Rabbits under seven weeks of age should, ideally, still have access to their mother. If you have a rabbit under that age, please consult with professionals for advice.) Pellets There are two types of rabbit pellets, those made from timothy hay and those made from alfalfa hay. Adult rabbits should be fed only timothy pellets. Feed him only pellets. Do not buy the various types that include treats, seeds and the like. He might like them, especially the sugary items, but they aren t good for him. Your rabbit should be given limited amounts of timothy pellets each day. Use the following as a guide to the amount to feed him. Under 5 pounds% 1/8-1/4 cup per day 5-7 pounds% 1/4 cup per day 8-10 pounds% 1/2 cup per day 11 or more pounds% 1/2-3/4 cup per day Many rabbits will not have a healthy weight over about 11 pounds. If your bunny is that heavy, please ensure it is appropriate for his size. The determining factor in the amount of pellets is that you use pellets to control your rabbit s weight. If your bunny is too heavy, cut back on the pellets. (Assuming you are not overfeeding treats.) You will need to determine the correct amount of pellets for your bunny, which depends on his metabolism, amount of exercise and the makeup of the rest of his diet. But remember, he doesn t need a lot of pellets - you want him to eat more hay - and you control his weight with pellets. If his weight is good, you re probably feeding him the correct amount. As with hay, the pellet diet is different for young rabbits. Rabbits between ages seven weeks and seven months can have unlimited amounts of alfalfa pellets. Rabbits between ages seven months and a year should be transitioned off unlimited alfalfa pellets and onto timothy pellets, in the amounts described above. Rabbits prefer alfalfa pellets, so your bunny may not at first eat the timothy pellets. During those ages you can feed a mix of alfalfa and timothy to aid the transition. Vegetables Your rabbit s diet should include fresh vegetables each day. The amount is not as critical as with pellets, since vegetables won t led to weight problems. Most rabbits will do well with about one - two cups per day. Some rabbits will have an adverse reaction to certain vegetables, resulting in diarrhea. Introduce new vegetables one at a time. That way, if there is a reaction, you ll know which one was the cause. Give a variety of vegetables from the list below. A variety is necessary in order to get all the various nutrients. Vegetables are an essential source of vitamin A. Suggested vegetables are: Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts; Basil; Carrot tops; Cilantro; Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides); Endive; Escarole; Green peppers; Mint; Parsley; Raspberry leaves; Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf); Watercress; Wheat grass Give in limited quantities: Beet greens (tops); Bok choy; Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems); Carrots; Celery cut into bite size pieces; Collard greens; Kale; Mustard greens; Pea pods (the flat edible kind); Radish tops; Spinach. (Carrots contain quite a bit of sugar, which is why they are on the list of restricted vegetables.) Do not give Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower and Rhubarb. Don t give your bunny leftover or stale vegetables - if you wouldn t eat it, don t give it to him. Version 2.1% Page 8

9 Water Your rabbit should have access to fresh, clean water at all time. You want him to stay hydrated! A water bowl is best, as he ll be able to drink more from it than a bottle. Get a heavy bottom bowl so he doesn t tip it over. Replace the water every day. You can give him a bottle as a backup, if you want. Treats You can give your bunny treats, but in very limited quantities. Rabbits have a very big sweet tooth. This makes it fun to give them treats. But too much sugar is detrimental to both their health and maintaining their weight at the proper level. Many rabbits can not tolerate sweet treats even once per day! It s up to you to limit the amount of treats - even though it s so fun to see them so excited for them! Make it fun and a time to interact and bond with your bunny by giving treats by hand. Many rabbits also like timothy hay cubes (not alfalfa hay), which make a good treat. They are compressed hay, so they re good for him, and they are fun to chew. Fruits, including dried fruits, can be used as treats. Favorites include Apple (remove stem and seeds); Blueberries; Melon ; Orange (without the peel) ; Papaya; Peach ; Pear ; Pineapple; Plums; Raspberries ; Strawberries. Sugary fruits such as bananas, grapes and raisins should be used only sparingly, as occasional treats. Remember, treats don t need to be food! Your bunny will be very happy with new toys every so often. Give him different kinds once in a while. Like us, he is interested in new things. What to Avoid Most treats sold in pet stores are unhealthy for your rabbit, even though your rabbit might readily eat them. Indeed, they are designed so that your rabbit eats them and you purchase more, not for the nutritional needs of your rabbit. They frequently contain food that isn t good for his digestive system or his overall heath. Stick to hay, timothy pellets, fresh vegetables and a limited amount of fruits and he ll have a good diet. Specific items to look out for and not feed your rabbit, even as treats: Pellets that contain seeds, nuts or cereal; Processed cereal, kibble, mueslix; Oat, Corn; Grains; Crackers; Candy (including yogurt drops). Rabbits do not need vitamin supplements. A proper diet of unlimited hay, limited pellets and vegetables contains all the vitamins your rabbit will require. Toxic Plants Rabbit Advocates maintains a list of toxic plants at Litter Training Rabbits will want to use one or a few places for their litter and droppings. You ll use this to your advantage in litter training. When your bunny first gets into his new home, he s going to want to explore and mark it. So, his litter habits will not be as good as they will eventually become. Watch him during this time to understand his habits. If he seems to like one corner of the pen the best, put the litter box in that corner. Rabbits like to eat hay when using the bathroom. So, place hay where he can get it from the litter box. You can even put the litter on one end of the box and some hay on the other side of the box; be sure to replace any hay that becomes soiled. If your rabbit urinates outside the pen, clean it up with white vinegar. It will remove the stain and, as he won t like the smell, discourage him from using that spot again. If the urine has dried, use a carpet cleaner as necessary. However, he will likely want a spot outside the pen. So, if he is persistent in using one spot, put a litter box there. Version 2.1% Page 9

10 The best way to encourage your rabbit to use the litter box is to make his entire pen, and any litter boxes that are outside it, his sanctuary. Make it a place where he knows he is safe and undisturbed. Don t take him out of the pen or box - let him come out on his own. Don t pet him while he s in the litter box. Don t place him in the litter box in a attempt to train him to use it. Let him know that the pen and litter boxes are safe places just for him. He ll then be more inclined to use them. There is a technique you can use to aid in litter training. If he urinates outside his litter box, soak some of it up with a clean paper towel, without any vinegar. Put the paper towel in his litter box. Because it smells like him, it can encourage him to urinate there. Similarly, you can leave a small amount of the soiled litter in the box when you change it, so it continues to smell like him. Litter Box Material Litter material made from compressed sawdust pellets, paper pulp or recycled paper (such as CareFresh or Yesterday s News) or aspen bark are good choices. Do not use pine or cedar shavings as they can cause liver damage. Do not use cat litter or clay, as it is too dusty and harmful when ingested. Lastly, do not use corn cob litter; it s not very absorbent and can cause internal blockage if your bunny eats it. Rabbit droppings make excellent composting material; they are rich in nitrogen. Health Two of the most important aspects of maintaining your rabbit s health are proper diet and sufficient exercise. Provide these two things and you ll go a long way to giving your rabbit a healthy life. Become familiar with your rabbits normal behavior, so you can detect any changes that might indicate health problems. In particular, you should know how much hay and pellets he normally eats in a day, how much water he drinks and his activity level when exercising. If you have a bonded pair, you must be even more diligent about knowing your bunnies and their habits in order to know which bunny does what. If you notice a change in any of these behaviors, it s cause for concern. Rabbits do not require periodic medications, such as heartworm medication or vaccinations. It is a good idea to have your rabbit examined by a veterinarian experienced in rabbit care once per year. A professional can spot problems that you might miss. Your Bunnies Weight Maintaining your bunnies weight at the proper level is one of the best things you can do for his health, and it s not difficult. By controlling your bunnies diet, you can usually prevent him from becoming overweight, which will help him in lots of ways. So, how do you evaluate your bunnies weight? In this section, we ll give you some guidelines. Keeping extra weight off your bunny will have many benefits, both for him and you. The cardiovascular system (heart and lungs) of an overweight rabbit will need to work extra hard and suffer for it, just like in humans. The joints will also be taxed carrying the extra weight around. An improper diet (and/or lack of exercise) is the usual cause of an overweight bunny. An improper diet can also cause soft stools and the accompanying messy hind end. In fact, this is one sign that your rabbit is overweight. Fixing the diet not only results in a better weight, the messy bottom can clear up too - which makes everyone happy! Your rabbit s intestinal system is highly efficient; in fact, some of the food is processed twice in order to extract all the goodness. The result are cecotropes - small, glossy and smelly droppings. The rabbit will usually eat these directly from the anus when they are produced, so you usually don t see them. However, if your bunny is overweight, he might not be able to reach around himself to reach them. Thus he is denied their nutrition and they can make a mess. So, if you see cecotropes lying around, it s time to take a careful look at your bunnies weight. Version 2.1% Page 10

11 MIDWEST RABBIT RESCUE & RE-HOME% It s always a good idea to pay attention to your rabbits weight. Become very familiar with how he looks and how his body feels, so you can detect any changes. Weighing him once a month gives you a more precise way to detect changes when they start to occur. When you run your hands over a healthy rabbit, you should readily feel the spine and ribs, with a thin layer of padding. As a rabbit gains weight, it s spine, ribs and even hips become more difficult to feel distinctly. Fat accumulates on the chest and stomach areas, and may even hang down. When your bunny is standing at attention (i.e. up on all legs), his stomach should not be on the floor. When a rabbit is overweight, he can have rolls of fat around the tail and ankles. When you look at your rabbit, you should be able to see definition of his hind hips. Look at her from above - his hips should tuck in a bit just ahead of the hind legs. If he looks like a pear, he s overweight! A rabbit that is too thin will feel bony along its spine and ribs. Depressions on each side of the pelvis and spine will develop. If you bunny is overweight, it s time to evaluate his diet. Stick to unlimited quantities of good quality timothy hay and very LIMITED quantities of timothy pellets (just pellets - not the type mixed with treats) and fresh greens. If he s overweight, he s probably not eating right, so you need to take care of him by eliminating treats from his diet. You can probably cut back on the pellets as well. You want him to be eating mainly hay. It s so much fun to give them treats, but they ll eat way too many of them - and it doesn t take much to be way too much as a rabbit doesn t process sugar very well. Have fun with your bunny by interacting with him in other ways than sweet treats. Get him some new toys to play with, rather than giving him treats. Or some timothy cubes, which can be fun because they are compressed. He ll happier and healthier. Monthly Maintenance You will need to trim your rabbits toenails; probably every four to six weeks. Have clippers and tissue with you:. Put a towel in your lap and turn your bunny over on its back. Be very gentle when doing so - he s going to struggle at first. You can orient him away from your body, between your slightly separated legs (see picture), or alongside your stomach with one of your arms alongside his body on the side away from you. Keep his head slightly lower than his rear end. He will go into what is commonly called a trance - but its not actually a trance. It s a self defense method of playing dead, used sometimes when caught by a predator. When the predator drops the rabbit, it will burst into action and try to escape. So, you need to be ready for your bunny to burst into action when you are working with him this way. If your bunny won t settle down and continues to struggle, you can wrap him in a towel (with his head outside). This will make it more difficult for him to struggle and, frequently, rabbits will then settle down. Once your rabbit is relaxed, gently take a paw and examine the nails. You need to identify the vein, also called the quick, that is inside the nail. It will extend down from the paw, part way to the end of the nail. It can be difficult to see the vein, especially if your bunnies nails are dark. Look carefully at the nail near the toe, noting the color. Even if your bunnies nails are dark, you will see a darker and/or redder coloring inside the nail. That is the vein you need to avoid. Follow that coloring along the nail - you ll be able to see where it tapers off and ends. Do not try to cut as close to the vein as possible usually cutting half-way between where is vein appears to end and the end of the nail is good. Use a quick, firm cut, square to the nail. You ll be gently but firmly holding the paw with one hand during this procedure; use your finger and thumb to support the toe while you cut, so that the nail doesn t move while it s being cut. Version 2.1% Page 11

12 If you do cut the vein, it will bleed and your bunny will likely struggle to get up. Don t apply too much force to keep him on his back, or he ll hurt himself. Use a tissue and apply gentle pressure for about a minute. That should stop the bleeding. Let your bunny clean up his paw as he wishes. You can also give your rabbit a basic examination for obvious problems. His eyes, nose and mouth should be clean without any discharge or fur with dried discharge. Ears should be clean, with no wax or dried, crusty appearing material. Do not put anything in his ear (such as a Q-Tip) to clean it. If there are problems, have him examined by your veterinarian. Check around his genitals for cleanliness. Rabbits with long fur can sometimes have droppings stuck in their fur or the fur can be matted. If so, use a fine-tooth comb to gently brush them out. If need be, use witchhazel to wet and soften the fur and material, then gently brush them out. Chronic problems should be seen by a veterinarian. Cecotropes Rabbits have a very complex digestive system, designed to get all possible goodness from their diet. In addition to the normal droppings produced (round and hard), which is waste material, their digestive system also produces cecotropes. Cecotropes are soft, gel-like droppings, frequently clustered together. They are covered in a shiny film and have a strong oder. Unlike the normal droppings, cecotropes are not waste material. In fact, they are rich sources of proteins, certain vitamins, fiber and other nutrients. Most rabbits will eat them directly from the anus as they are produced. However, you might find them around your rabbits pen (or elsewhere). It is best to leave them for your bunny, as they are very good for his health. Rabbits that are too heavy can have problems reaching their anus in order to collect the cecotropes. If you see cecotropes on a frequent basis, you should evaluate your bunnies weight. Problems To Be On The Lookout For The Other Resources section of this manual contains web sites with considerable information on rabbit health issues. They are a useful reference for understanding your rabbit and we recommend that you take a look at them. However, if you are concerned about your rabbit s health, they are not a substitute for diagnosis and treatment by a veterinarian experienced in the care of rabbits. One of the more common problems that rabbits develop is gastroinstetional stasis. It is a slowing down of the digestive process. It is a very serious condition that can cause rapid deterioration and death. Symptoms include a reduction or stopping of eating or a reduction in the amount and size of droppings. Stasis can be caused by many factors including lack of sufficient exercise, stress, gas bubbles in the stomach, an abscess, changes in their diet (i.e. new pellets), eating the wrong foods or disorders of the gastrointestinal tract. Some rabbits become prone to stasis as they get older. If your rabbit is showing any of the symptoms of stasis, you need to take action right away. The health of a rabbit that is not eating properly can deteriorate very quickly. Take your rabbit to a veterinarian who has experience treating rabbits. A rabbit with teeth problems can also stop eating. An examination of a rabbit that is not eating should include a thorough examination of it s teeth and mouth. Diarrhea is another symptom of possible serious problems in a rabbit. A rabbit with diarrhea should see a qualified veterinarian right away. If your rabbit becomes overheated he can develop heat stroke. Symptoms include labored breathing, panting, flaring of the nostrils, distress or disorientation or, in some cases, convulsions. Heat stroke can lead to death and requires treatment. Mist his ears with cool water. Never put your rabbit into cold water or run him under cold Version 2.1% Page 12

13 water; the sudden change in temperature can kill him, and in any event, the process will only add to his stress. Take him to his veterinarian for treatment. Other Resources House Rabbit Society% Extensive information about rabbits% MediRabbit% Medical advice and information% Busy Bunny% Toys, chews, houses% Binky Bunny% Information, toys, chews% KMS Hay Loft% Hay% American Pet Diner% Hay% Zooh Corner% Toy, products% Bunny Bunch Boutique% Housing, toys% Bun Space% Online community% Hopper Home% Housing, info, blog% Rabbits On Line% Rabbit forum% A Companion for Your Bunny Anyone who has two rabbits that live with each other needs no convincing that bunnies derive tremendous companionship, comfort and fun from each other. There are few things you can do that will have a more beneficial impact on your rabbits life than giving him or her a companion. And it s not very much additional work for you. You ve already prepared your home, and you re already feeding and cleaning for one rabbit. Feeding and cleaning for a second doesn t take much extra time - they ll share a pen, food and litter boxes. Rabbits are very social by nature. They really like having a companion. They play together, snuggle together, rest together and are unbelievably cute together. Most people are away from their home for a good part of the day and are busy with their lives and families when they are at home. You can give your bunny a friend to be with so that even when you re away they will comfort each other. Their lives will be much fuller with a companion. Selecting a companion for your rabbit requires some thought and care - and he/she will have a say in the matter. We ll help you get just the perfect one. You can bring your bunny in for a date if you d like. We ll help you through the bonding process, which is pretty easy but does require some time from you each day to supervise their time together. It is actually an interesting and fun process, and it s very touching when they decide to bond. We encourage our adopters to get a companion for their bunny by offering a 50% discount on a second rabbit that you adopt from us within six months of the first adoption. Version 2.1% Page 13