LIVING WITH YOUR CAT AND THE CLAWS

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Brandon Hunter
5 years ago
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1 LIVING WITH YOUR CAT AND THE CLAWS WHY WE DO NOT DECLAW We at West Niagara Animal Hospital are proud to say we do not offer declaw surgeries. Declawing, or properly called onychectomy, involves the amputation of each toe at the first bone. This is equivalent to amputating each of your 10 fingers at first knuckle. The surgery is extremely painful and can result in lifelong lameness and tenderness. Declawed cats should never be let outdoors as they cannot escape nor defend themselves properly. Many declawed cats turn to their teeth to defend themselves and can become quite dangerous to people. North America is one of the few places in the world where this orthopedic procedure is still routinely offered. For many years now European countries, Japan, New Zealand and Australia have classified declawing of cats, along with tail docking and ear cropping of dogs, inhumane and illegal. These surgeries are considered elective mutilation. Cats are wonderful animals. As your veterinarians we are here to help you and your cat to share a lifetime of health and happiness. It is with this in mind that we have put together these few pages of information. Remember, you can take the cat out of the jungle but you cannot take the jungle out of a cat! Perhaps this is why we treasure them so much. SO WHY DO THEY SCRATCH THINGS All cats must scratch things to shed off old nail. This keeps the nails slim enough to be retracted back in and both cleans and sharpens them at the same time. A scratched object is also a cat's calling card: I was here and this is mine. Special scent from the pads is also left behind to identify the scratcher by smell. LIVING WITH KITTENS Living with kittens can be very painful. Anyone who has had a bundle of energy climb up their pantleg can attest to this. BE PATIENT! Unfortunately kittens discover the world by climbing it and that means everything and anything that is in front of them. This is not unlike puppies who discover the world by sticking everything in their mouth and chewing on it. The good news is that they will grow out of it! Kittens will be much less destructive by the time of 6 months of age but sadly many kittens get declawed at this age because their owners believe they will be just as destructive the rest of their lives. Nail trimming your kitten from day one will allow your kitten to get used to it and also make both of your lives much more pleasant. The hardest part about nail trimming a kitten is holding them still long enough to do it, so enlist a holder and try to do it at nap time. NAIL TRIMMING Trimming cat's nails is actually quite easy. The nails are clear even in black feet and the quick can be readily seen. Most cats do not mind their nails trimmed at all (unlike most dogs). ANY ONE OF OUR WONDERFUL STAFF WOULD BE HAPPY TO SHOW YOU! 1. Equipment :

2 -simple people nail trimmers ( toe nail trimmers for thicker nails in hind feet) are the best for beginners as the size of the opening will not allow you to cut too far -small cat nail trimmers if you are more experienced -another person to hold cat in their lap until everyone is comfortable (important with wiggly kittens) 2.Technique: -gently squeeze the toe between your forefinger and thumb. This will push on the tendon that holds the claw retracted and allows the nail to come out. -hold the nail trimmers as if you were doing your own fingernail ie the trimmer is horizontal but unlike our fingernail the cat's nail is vertical to the clippers. -push the tip of the claw in up to the quick. In adult cats the nails are usually so thick that it is impossible to push too far when using people nail trimmers! Since the nails are usually clear in cats it is relatively easy to see the red tissue inside that constitutes what we call the quick. -cut quickly and firmly. Trimmers that are too dull will quite frequently leave splinters/whisps of nail at edges and these may get caught on things. A quick clip will leave a cleaner cut surface. Some nails will naturally splinter and this may be a sign of poor nutrition but may also be normal especially in dry conditions. -don't forget the dewclaws ("thumbs") on the insides of the front paws -cats with extra toes must be trimmed regularly: many of these toes were not properly formed and cannot retract. They are often not used to scratch things and can grow too long, curving right into the flesh of the paw. -Do the back feet if your kitty does not go outside. This will prevent nail gouges as they spring off of you or the furniture. 3.Frequency: -Check the feet weekly. Usually only 1 or 2 nails may have developed a sharp point that needs trimming. The most common problem with destructive scratching is that the nails are not trimmed often enough. If you still don't feel comfortable in trimming the nails yourself, don't worry : we offer nail trimming at our hospital. Don't be afraid to play with your cats feet. Those retractable claws are an amazing invention of nature and very fascinating! ALLOWING ACCESS TO OUTSIDE Cats who are allowed to go outside usually limit their scratching to outside stuff. This would be an excellent choice to those cats that are too difficult to handle for nail trims. Cats love to scratch wood.

3 THINGS FOR YOUR KITTY TO SCRATCH Individual cats have individual scratching surface preferences. The scratching post must also be tall enough for the cat to stretch up on it's hindlegs completely. You must put the "scratching post" where the cat wants to scratch, not where you want her to use it or it will never work. Be creative! Consider it a challenge to create a conversation piece by the front door/ couch/ etc and make all your friends (and their cats!) jealous. So here are a few of a cat's favourite things: 1. Wood Cats love wood! Anyone who has had a staircase post or door trim "remodelled" by their pet surely knows this. An old log (mounted up or just lying on the floor) or a weathered old cedar grape-post cut to size works wonderfully as well as any climbable structure made out of wood. If you have open ceiling beams that your cat can have access to by climbing, it will entertain both of you endlessly (careful with any kamikaze jumps down to hunt your dinner, though!). Almost any wood will do as long as it is not treated and thus toxic to cats and "throwaway" pieces of wood trim can be quite handy. 2. Carpeting Any remnant pieces of carpeting can be tacked up or made into a floor mat which your cat can pluck and scratch to his heart's content. Due to the great variety of different textures and types of carpeting you may need to experiment to see which your cat prefers. Built "jungle gyms" that have hidey holes and places to sleep/play-in and are carpet covered are usually a great hit. Some carpeting can collect static electricity so do not be surprised if after a few zaps your cat avoids the new expensive scratching post and goes back to the old familiar non-scary scratching places! You may want to "test drive" carpeting by hand or foot scuffing it and see if it collects static electricity. 3. Sisal, Rope or Woven Mats These mats can be hung on the wall or anywhere the cat is trying to scratch, sides of couches and backs of furniture being some of the favourite places. Placing a replaceable scratching mat as a welcome mat by the outside doors will keep both of you happier and can be even used as a decorative seasonal accent. 4. Cardboard Cardboard in various formats is also a favourite of many cats. You can buy various types of scratching posts and even fancy play areas made of this recyclable material but many times a plain box will do just as fine. 5. Fabric Some cats find certain types of fabric irresistable (especially when it covers your heirloom footstool or favourite armchair). For these cats it may be best to cover those areas with a removable and washable throw-away piece of fabric. There are lots of lovely fabrics that you can use imaginatively (and cheaply!) and you never know, you might actually like them better than the original one after all. Play tubes and sleeping areas made of fabric are also a great way to redirect the scratching to appropriate venues. All cats have individual likes and dislikes so don't be afraid to experiment with different materials. However, don't forget, it is the placement in your house that counts the most!

4 Older cats frequently have more difficulty standing up on their hindlegs to scratch, so providing them with a flat surface on the floor as well is important. HOW TO STOP UNWANTED SCRATCHING 1.Make the place inaccessible Move furniture around or place an object in front of the scratched at surface. Or if possible, place a scratchable surface on top of it. Sometimes it is just more simple to cover the area with something that cannot be damaged, such as clear plastic mat on carpet, or something that can be easily replaced. 2.Offer a suitable substitute near by or on the scratched at object Any of the materials mentioned above, such as a cardboard box, placed at the end or back of your couch or chair work well. Nobody will see the mess and it is easy to clean if need be. 3.Make other objects more pleasurable to scratch Catnip works well for some adult cats. Catnip does not affect all cats equally. Kittens younger than 7-8 months do not usually find it desirable at all so sprinkling it on surfaces is wasted on these younglings. Catnip can be grown in your garden and used fresh or dried. You can also purchase catnip in spray format which is less messy and easier to use than the dried flakes. There are cat pheromone sprays, such as Feliway, that can also be used on various areas in the house. The sprayed area now "smells" like the cat and doesn't need to be marked again by scratching. Cats mark their "possessions" by cheek rubbing and scratching to leave their scent behind. This explains all that action at your pantlegs when you come home! Cats do respond to praise and petting, so reward them with pleasant attention every time they are scratching the objects they are supposed to scratch. 4.Make the place/object obnoxious to the cat -Using scents: Cats don't really like citrus scents so using lemon scented cleaner/polisher on wood will sometimes be enough to keep them off your wooden furniture. Oil of citronella and even natural lemon spritz on the fabric of you favourite chair's arms may help as well. Mothballs, if rubbed on fabric faintly enough so that you can't smell it, are also an excellent deterrant especially on the backs of furniture. Never use anything that is actually toxic or will damage the eyes as cats groom their faces and lick their paws. Using commercial sprays such as Bitter Apple are useful only if your cat is a chewer. These products are very good for electric and phone cords. -Watersprays: Most cats do not like a jet or spray of water directed at them so this, together with a firm "No!" will help to train your cat. This will also encourage the male members of the family to participate since watergun target practice will, for once, be

5 allowed in the house! -Scare them off: There are some products such as Sscat that are specifically designed for this purpose. Scatt (inquire for it at your vets) is an aerosal spray of compressed air that works with a motion sensor to only go off when the cat comes near the object. They are safe and work very well. There is also fabric that can be bought that collects static electricity and gives the pet jumping up on the fabric or touching it that familiar static shock. This will work best on flat surfaces such as on the forbidden chair or under the christmas tree. (It will not, however, deter a determined child!) Cats are fastidious and hate sticky things on their feet. Double sided tape applied on carpet edges and specific areas on furniture work very well. You can also use the lint removal rolls for larger areas. Do not use any commercial sticky mouse traps or flypaper. These products are very difficult to remove from your pet and can lead to panic, trauma and even permanent damage or death in small kittens. Another way to scare a cat off of scratching a vertical surface, such as a speaker tower or the arm of a couch, is to booby trap it. Place a long piece of fabric that is easily pulled down on the object. On top of this place an empty aluminum popcan with a few pennies inside it, just enough to rattle loudly. When your cat (usually that overactive kitten) comes and scratches the fabric it will pull down and drop the can down with a loud crash! Cats who have been scared at a location very rarely go back there and this should stop the scratching. You can also try a balloon that is safety pinned on the fabric. When the cats claw hits it the balloon will pop and scare the cat. This can be trickier as balloons are a relatively easy target to avoid and the nails have to be sharp to break it. The use of upside down placed loaded mousetraps is not recommended! They can break small bones, including fingers, not to mention even kill a small kitten. Always make sure that no one can get hurt and don't forget that the objective of your booby trap is to scare, not to hurt. Never use heavy objects! If you want to know if it is safe, drop it on your small toe and see if it hurts. This will save you from embarrassing and expensive vet visits even if it will draw raised eyebrows at home. Simply using loud noises such as whistles and horns can scare enough to stop the unwanted scratching. The important thing is to try to accomplish this in such a way that the cat doesn't associate your presence with the deterrant. Otherwise your kitty will quickly learn not to do it if you are anywhere nearby. So be sneaky and quiet and shoot that fancy waterpistol from around the corner! 5.Make the nails less damaging -Trim the nails as discussed above -Soft Paws: -A plastic covering (an artificial nail) that can be glued on the nails and last about 3-6 weeks depending on use and growth rate of the nails. They can be done at home and are available ( in a variety of colours!) from the veterinarian. They come in different sizes so a " fitting " is recommended. These are an excellent choice for short term usage, eg. for people undergoing chemotherapy or anticoagulant treatments where there may be a health risk from the cats normal claws.these can also be used when you and your cat need to stay at the residence of someone else. Soft Paws are also available for dogs. We have brochures on this product for those interested.

6 6.Training Yes, cats can be trained! Unlike dogs they are not usually food oriented but if you happen to hit on that treat that is just irresistable for your kitty you are in luck. Many cats will respond to "No" and being gently lifted to the appropriate object. Encourage them to scratch and praise them by petting and voice. Kittens especially need to be shown where it is proper to scratch, many times repeatedly and with lots of praise and play involved. Attach toys to the scratching post or use cardboard to make tunnels. This is especially fun for 2 or more cats to play together. Be consistent! An area must always be off limits and not on just some days, otherwise your cat will get frustrated and may start to show behavioural problems such as spraying. This also applies to objects that are okay to scratch. Don't remove something that the cat enjoys scratching just because it no longer matches your decor or looks ugly, put the new object near it to do a slow transition. Do not be surprised if the cat refuses to use the new item, though. Which brings us to the last point in training: Yes, owners can be trained, too! If there is a spot that your cat consistently insists going to scratch then put something there that she is allowed to scratch. So what if it is ugly, consider it a conversation piece and "cat art"! We hope you have found this information useful. We, as your veterinarians and caregiver teammates, are here to help you enjoy your pets to their (and your) full potential. Cats are unique in their role as our companions as they still retain many of their wild instincts and behaviours, unlike many of our more "domesticated" pets. It is this independence of spirit combined with their astonishing capacity to love their people that makes them so fascinating. No self-respecting dog owner would put up with half of the stuff that our cats manage to put us through, and still we love them. These tips and ideas were put together by Drs Nicola Smith and Kirsi Allo and our wonderful staff. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us.

The Scratch Stops Here

The Scratch Stops Here Cats scratch; it s a fact. Cats do not scratch in order to be destructive, but rather because it is a natural activity. The common misconception is that cats scratch on surfaces in order to sharpen their