The first magazine for land hermit crab enthusiasts! November 2006 Volume I Issue 5. Cover photo by Snwbordrgrl. In this issue:

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1 The first magazine for land hermit crab enthusiasts! November 2006 Volume I Issue 5 Cover photo by Snwbordrgrl In this issue: Meet The Hermit Crab Addiction Turning up the heat in your crabitat Crabbers see the light Crabs aren t for Christmas October contest winners

2 October 2006 Winner: October 2006 Winner: This photo was submitted by JoeyO My Fall loving Wood! His shell even "sports" the Fall colors! JoeyO will receive a free copy of the annual calendar featuring all of our winners. PLUS 200 CSJ dollars to spend on prizes! Owner: TaintedDogma0 Dimensions of Crabitat: Not certain, 20L Volume of Crabitat: 20 Gallons Long Description of Substrate: Playsand, little cocofiber Description of Tank Items PVC pipe, 2 plants, 2 cholla woods, cocohut, 2 water dishes, 1 food dish, shells, 2nd level w/netting, clay pot tainteddogma0 will receive 200 CSJ dollars to spend on prizes! Enter our contests at

3 Meet The Hermit Crab Addiction My name is Vicki O'Donnell and I live in Fremont California USA. I currently am a stay at home Mom, with 3 boys. I came into crabbing when my oldest had to have a hermit crab. We went to PetSmart where he had seen them and got a plastic cage that came with gravel and 1 hermit crab. After watching him for a few days it was obvious that we needed to do some research on hermit crabs. We then went and purchased a 10 gal- lon tank, play sand, dechlorinator, salt water, and a UTH. After a few weeks my son seemed to be less into hermit crabs then I was so I took them over gladly! That's when my addiction started. I started The Addiction store be- cause many members were having a hard time finding certain products where they lived. Organic foods, turtle docks and reptile moss were not widely available. I was able to buy organic flowers, powders and herbs in bulk and make them into smaller packages. I could then offer them to fellow crabbers that didn't cost a bundle. When I of- fered my first variety pack I sold out in 8 hours! That inspired me to get a bit more creative and offer a wider variety of organic items. My top ten selling items in The Addiction store are: By Vicki O Donnell 1. Organic Variety Pack 2. Spirulina Powder 3. Choya Wood 4. Organic Flowers 5. Epicurean Hermit Crab Cuisine 6. Epicurean Mangrove Meal 7. Crushed Coral 8. Medicinal Baths 9. Sand Dollars 10. Turtle Docks Where you can shop online: I recently had a Mothers Day sale, and that had a great turn out. I will be offering a Fathers Day sale in June, so keep an eye out for that. Currently in the works are organic flavored cuttle bone powders and bulk sizes of reptile moss. When I ship out your order, inside the packages are some small surprises. I try to get more products known out there. If someone orders the organic powders I will make sure to put some samples of organic flowers in there so they can try them out. I also offered free samples of the popular Epicurean Hermit Crab Cuisine and Mangrove Meal on hermit crab forums. That was a big hit! I received envelopes asking for the samples and orders for the items came in fast! The Addiction also does specialized orders. If a customer can't find an item, we will locate it for them. Most recently was a plant purchase and bulk size reptile moss. The Addiction has a feedback score of 100% and we are extremely proud of that fact. We do ship outside the US. To this date we have shipped packages to Canada, Mexico and Australia. Most countries have strict laws, so contact customs and see what is permissible to enter the country prior to ordering.

4 Heating the Crabitat by Jenny Swartzbaugh (jsrtist) Meet the author: I am an artist and am currently returning to school to study wildlife biology. My art allows me to combine my passion for animals, science and sculpture. Land hermit crabs are tropical animals who need to be kept in a constant, stable temperature. Ideally, ambient air temperature of the tank should stay between 75-80ºF. A stable temperature is just as important as a warm one because in the tropics, animals do not experience much temperature fluctuation on a day to day or even seasonal basis. In the wintertime, it is especially critical to make sure our tanks stay stable and warm for our pets. Crabs are cold blooded creatures, which means they are only as warm as their surrounding temperatures. Being kept in too cool of a temperature for an extended period of time interferes with bodily functions including respiration and digestion, and extremely cold temperatures can cause irreparable organ failure. The general rule I go by in keeping my hermit crabs is to give them a large aquarium with plenty of surface area and areas of varying temperature so they can choose where they will be most comfortable. After all, they are wild animals and know how to take care of themselves. As their keepers, our job is to mimic their natural environment as closely as possible. My crabitat is 48" long by 15" wide and 17" tall (standard 60 gallon). At one end I have a 75 watt reptile heat lamp sitting on a metal screen over the tank. (Never set a heat lamp on a glass lid as it can crack). At this end of the tank, I also have a rheostat which sticks to the side and measures ambient air temperature. The rheostat is basically a thermostat I keep it set to about 80ºF and it automatically shuts off or clicks on depending on how warm or cool the tank is. (Place the rheostat in a safe place away from curious family members or children who may try to readjust it!) I have been keeping land hermit crabs since I was a kid in the mid 80s, but have been a serious crab keeper since early I currently have 5 species in a 60 gallon tank and consider myself an amateur scientist, dedicated to better understanding these mysterious creatures. One of my greatest accomplishments came this summer when my female rugosus not only bred in captivity, but laid eggs which hatched. The larvae lived for about six days and I was thrilled to record data during that time. In addition to hermit crabs, I also have goldfish and a couple reef aquariums, as well as a rescued cat and dog. Some examples of my hermie art! Although I find heat lamps to be very effective for medium to large tanks (30 gallons or more), there are certain precautions to take when using them. I'd recommend against using them in small tanks simply because there is not enough room in the tank to move away from the heat. I mentioned before that my tank is four feet long, so the crabs have plenty of area to get out of the heat if necessary. In a taller tank, you also want to increase the wattage of the lamp so your substrate and air temperature stay warm enough. Make sure to only use a heat lamp along with a rheostat to avoid accidental overheating of the tank. Undertank heaters, another heating source, are inexpensive, readily available and effective. They can be dangerous, however, if a crab were to come in contact with the hot glass they attach to. To prevent this, I place a layer of coarse pebbles directly over the heater so no crab ever comes in direct contact with it. Undertank heaters also work well in tanks with deep substrate (6" or more). The surface sand may be cool to the touch but the crabs can burrow to get closer to the heater as needed. In my tank, crabs frequently dig down or molt near the heater.

5 Continued... In addition to the undertank heater at the bottom of my tank, I also have one attached to the side. I have a large flat rock against the glass so no crab will come in contact with the heater. I usually find crabs digging or burrowing near the rock and it also helps heat the surface substrate. I recommend using multiple small undertank heaters rather than one large because of the importance of keeping a range of temperatures in the tank. You should always provide areas where the crabs can get away from the heat source if they need to. With too large of an undertank heater, you run the risk of overheating. I have my undertank heaters regulated by the rheostat to prevent this. In addition to heaters, I also use an aquarium light over the tank. I have my light on a timer to stay on for about 12 hours daily. It raises the temperature of the tank slightly during the day, mimicking the natural heat/cool cycle of a tropical day. In the summer, I cut back the hours of lighting so the tank won't overheat. Keeping salt and freshwater pools warm is important, too. My pools are both at the end of the tank near the heat lamp, and both stay close to 80ºF as well. I have experimented with moving them around the tank but knowing that tropical oceans stay in that range, I prefer to keep mine close to that. In addition to heating, placement of thermometers and hygrometers in the tank is critical. In medium to larger tanks (above 20 gallons), it is important to have more than one set and to have some at each end of the tank. I use both digital and dial-type gauges, and I have them at different levels in the tank. Knowing surface temperature is as important as air temperature, as this is where your crabs spend most of their time. Keeping an eye on your gauges is especially necessary when first setting up your heaters to prevent accidental overheating. I'd also like to mention the importance of using more than one heating method so you will always have a backup. Keep spare heat bulbs on hand at all times. Having one burn out or break in the middle of the night could mean disaster for your tank. Earlier this year, during a cold snap, our power went out and I had to wrap my crabitat with blankets to keep it warm in my drafty old house. Have a good supply of hand/feet warmers (the kind you use for camping) on hand in case of an emergency. These last for many hours and can get your crabs through a long, cold night. I hope this information has been helpful. These are methods I have used and adapted through the years to work for me. I wish you and your crabs a comfortable, tropical winter! Most of these items can be purchased in the reptile section of any pet store.

6 Lighting the crabitat...crabbers see the light! By Laura C. Perenic Have you reached a point where a desk lamp isn t meeting your crabs needs or yours? A good light source to provide a consistent light and dark cycle will not only make for happier pets but the additional light source will improve your ability to enjoy and photograph your crabs. Full spectrum light has two parts: one visible one invisible. The visible spectrum consists of all the colors of natural sunlight. Imagine a rainbow or light broken up by a prism. Ultraviolet light is present all the time outdoors during the day, even on cloudy days. You may have heard that ultraviolet light is bad but that is only partly correct. Ultraviolet (UV) light is commonly divided into three sections depending on its wavelength: near-uv (UV-A), mid UV (UV-B), and far UV (UV-C). UV-A tans us. UV-B stimulates the production of Vitamin D3 in our skin and is essential for the absorption of calcium into bones. (Benefits of Ultraviolet Light By Linaya Hahn Sunlight provides small amounts of the ultraviolet light that is essential to properly assimilate food, as well as for curing sundry minor scratches. It is important to not only provide sunlight but also provide full spectrum lamps, which emit small amounts of beneficial ultraviolet light. As with many aspects of keeping crabs there is some overlap in information regarding lighting and heating. If your heat source is a UTH then your heat source will be separate from your light source. Conversely if you use a tri-light for heating, this will already provide enough light for your tank. To simulate normal tropical conditions most people use timers with their lights to ensure a 12-hour night and day light cycle. Depending on your heating needs you will know if you require a nightglow bulb at night which will provide some heat; Nightglow bulbs though it has the added bonus of making it easier to watch your crabs at night. 15 watt Nightlight Incandescent Bulb There are Nightglow bulbs that emit a high amount of light and some that emit very little light. If you need the Nightglow bulb for heating, using the variety that emits very little light, as your crabs do need a period of darkness. If you are unable to find the low light bulb, alternate your Dayglow/Nightglow in 8 hour cycles and allow an 8 hour cycle of darkness. If you find your tank temperature drops too low, begin increasing the length of time the Nightglow bulb is on. A nightglow or moon glow bulb is an incandescent bulb coated with rare earth black phosphors that simulate the glow of the moon. Perfect for softly illuminating your crabitat. Based on experience it is best to use bulbs no higher than 40 watt, with 25W for a small crabitat. Others have chosen higher wattages to warm their larger (100 and 120 Gallon tanks. It is important to take the size of your crabitat, substrate type and other factors before deciding upon your lighting needs. (Safe Lighting for Land Hermit Crabs Can I Use A Light To Keep Them Warm? by Vanessa The easiest way to add lighting is to use a reptile heating/lighting hood over the tank. Hoods can be found with two ceramic receptacles for incandescent bulbs sometimes called bi-lights by ESU; a day glow bulb can be put in one side, and a night glow bulb in the other. It is best to start with 15-watt bulbs, and go to higher wattages only if necessary, especially with a 10-gallon tank. To prevent overheating, wood slats can be used to raise the hood a bit above the glass. Some hoods have a third receptacle for a fluorescent bulb. Full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs simulate natural sunlight and produces optimal amounts of UVB (3%) and UVA (15%). Energy efficient 20-watt lamp is equivalent to 75 watts of incandescent lighting. Reptile heat hoods are best used on glass top tanks (or screen, but screen tops make humidity regulation difficult) as the lights will be quite warm

7 Continued... and could melt plastic. (Hermit Crab Housing by Mcleod, Lianne exoticpets.about.com/cs/hermitcrabs/a/hermithomes_2.htm) For added brightness a tri-light or combo light that uses 2 incandescent bulbs and 1 fluorescent bulb can be used. It is important to consider that with hoods each light is on a separate cord, which means you will need access to multiple outlets or an outlet with a surge protector. Each plug will also require additional timers or one larger timer to help you provide a 12- hour cycle. 24 Reptile Bi-Light 2 (6"L X 25"W X 4"H) Heavy Duty Grounded Appliance Timer Power Center 8 outlets w/ timer Reptile hoods, while being a nice option can be expensive and may not be available in size for your tank should you are using something less common or quite large. Your options can be to use a several strip lights laid end to end or to use several clamp lamps or dome lamps to meet your lighting needs. Strip lights use UV Daylight Fluorescent Lamp in a full-spectrum daylight lamp that produces beneficial ultraviolet rays, 3%+ UVB and 7%+ UVA, which help process calcium for bone growth. Its color-enhancing, natural daylight simulation is also excellent for plant growth in natural vivariums. Strip lights offer high-quality fluorescent lighting in compact, lightweight, convenient and ready-to-use units. They feature a slim profile making them suitable for applications where space is limited. Dome lights provide more direct lighting than a hood or light strip and they tend to be cheaper. A dome lamp is clamp lamp is essentially a dome light that includes a squeeze clamp that screws tightly to the top of the ceramic socket near the plug and allows you to position your light at an angel to your tank. As with any lighting device it is important to think about safety. 10 Black Heat & Light Reflector Dome with Ceramic Socket Slimline Reptile Fixture With 18 UV Lamp

8 Continued All lighting fixtures have specifications regarding the maximum wattage bulb they can handle. The 10 Heat and light reflector can handle up to 250 watts of power meaning it can be used with a regular incandescent, night glow incandescent or halogen bulb up to 250 watts of power. The two great disadvantages to incandescent lights are their inefficiency - you don't get a lot of light compared with how much energy you apply. One saving grace is that the efficiency increases proportionally to the wattage, for example a single 100-watt bulb is much brighter than two 50-watt bulbs. The energy that does not get converted to light is wasted by being given off as heat. All but the smallest wattage bulbs can generate an awful lot of heat; because the heat is so great, a splash of water on a hot bulb can shatter it. Halogen bulbs are more efficient than "regular" incandescent bulbs by virtue of remaining brighter, longer; they still give off 95% of their initial light output at the end of their lives, which are about twice as long as regular incandescent bulbs. They are also more expensive. The great advantage of non-halogen bulbs is their extreme low cost for initial purchase, and their great availability. Halogen bulbs are on the average 5 to 10 times as expensive as their non-halogen counterparts. (Artificial Lighting: A Summary of Artificial Illumination as it Pertains to the Culture of Various Plants and Animals Commonly Kept in Indoor Aquaria by Richard J. Sexton richard@vrx.net Ya&sdn=freshaquarium&cdn=homegarden&tm=119&gps=62_6_796_403&f=20&tt=14&bt=0&bts=0&zu=ht tp%3a// As if all those choices were not enough another important consideration is your substrate. If you use a material that holds heat and your light source provides a lot of heat you must be careful to monitor the temperature of your substrate. In the past when people used corncob or wood chips as bedding with a desk lamp for light; the humidity level could become dangerously low. This low humidity combined with a constant source of light and heat can make for a flammable situation. Because all lighting provides a small amount of heat it is important to compensate for this loss of moisture from the air with substrates like coconut fiber and sand, which are more apt to hold water. Choosing the proper lighting for your hermit crab tank is predicated by many things including the size of your tank, how you heat it, your funds, and the substrate you use. As with decisions that involve the life of a pet and your hard earned dollars it is best to invest slowly and wisely in your lighting as you will surely have your crabs for years to come and you will want your investment to last as long as your interest in crabs. Be sure to think of lighting your tank by day and night and how this will work with your current or future heating plans. If you can devise a suitable plan for heating and lighting at the same time you can hopefully avoid making needless purchases. Undoubtedly you will end up with an array of light bulbs no matter what you try but if you start out with an idea this should keep you on target and out of the poor house. Meet the author: Howdy, my name is Laura. I live in Ohio and I've had hermit crabs two years in January. I have seven crabs; 4 PPs and 3 little Es. I cannot find Ruggies or Straws in the area at all so I use my money over decorating my 20H tank. Repti Halogen Bulbs watt

9 Hermit Crabs for Christmas By Stacy Griffith Hermit crabs are the ultimate impulse purchase pet and Christmas time is no exception. Hermit crabs are not the 'easy, carefree' pets they are promoted to be by pet stores. Its not as simple as buying a plastic box and putting the crab it in. In fact, hermit crabs require just as much, if not more, care than your average small pet. Before you pick up a hermit crabs for Christmas morning please consider the following: Land hermit crabs can live a minimum of 30 years in captivity. This is the age of the oldest pair in captivity that I know of, and they are still going strong. Hermit crabs can live up to 70 years in the wild, and are only limited to that age by the shell resources available to them. Are you prepared to own and care for this 'throw away pet' for that length of time? Will your child be willing to care for this pet into adulthood? Land hermit crabs can grow to the size of a cantaloupe, can you provide adequate housing for a pet that large? Hermit crabs require a consistent temperature ranges between 72-84F and a relative humidity in the range of 74-82%. If either of these two needs are not met, the crab will die, slowly and painfully. They require adequate room to move and climb around inside their tank. They require plenty of empty shells as they grow larger or simply bored with their current shell. Hermit crabs grow larger with each molt cycle. Molting? Oh you don't know that hermit crabs molt? They shed their outer exoskeleton and eat it. While their body is soft they grow and then the new exoskeleton hardens. This is a very physically stressful, and critical time for a hermit crab. Small hermit crabs can molt as often as every two months or less. Hermit crabs require dechlorinated water for drinking and bathing in as well as ocean water for drinking, bathing and osmotic regulation. There is more than one species of hermit crab? You didn't know that either did you? That's because the pet store that sold you the hermit crab doesn't know the difference. Hermit crabs are not hermits at all. In the wild, they live in colonies of hundreds, if not thousands, of crabs. Your one little crab will be very unhappy living alone. Do you still think hermit crabs are easy, carefree, throw away pets? Probably not. That's really just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to providing proper care. This Christmas, how many of the toys your child receives will be forgotten within a week? How many of them will they grow bored with and forget about? Will their new pet hermit crab be one of those? Are you, as a parent, willingly to assume care of the hermit crab? If not, please don't give a pet hermit crab as a Christmas gift. Pets aren't for Christmas, they are forever. Please make sure your child really is prepared to properly care for a new pet before bringing it home.

10 Next Month: Meet Epicurean Hermit November Winners Going Organic Favorite recipes Vector graphics by Amie Shuler 19 N Washington Trenton IL newsletter@crabstreetjournal.com